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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: guosh86 on January 29, 2013, 09:13:23 PM
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Hi guys!
I've finally started to dabble with remote power, and got myself a Naztech PB15000 to power my T+ UA-5. However, as much as I've tried, the UA-5 just does not power on. Any idea what I can do? Is it the tip? Or is it the reverse polarity issue that I've seen here a couple of times (but still don't really understand).
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Check tip polarity. I think the ua5 is reverse polarity from your naztech.
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Check tip polarity. I think the ua5 is reverse polarity from your naztech.
Bingo, we have a winner!
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Thanks tonedeaf and Ted,
Is there anything I can do? I'm really an electrical idiot, so is it possible for me to get an adapter so I can still use these together? Or am I in a real mess? :(
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I can build you one or you canare one your self with a "m" tip and a "n" tip.
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,20671.0.html
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If the battery will be dedicated to the ua5, just cut your cable in the center and swap the wires, solder them together and heat shrink over them. Otherwise, have ted make you a dedicated ua5 cable so that your stock battery cable can still be used for normal polarity applications.
Reverse polarity devices can be a pita for this reason.
Impotant tip...label this cable as reverse polarity so you dont accidently forget a year from now and burn another piece of gear. Most gear has reverse polarirty protection, as your us5 does, but not all gear has it.
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If the battery will be dedicated to the ua5, just cut your cable in the center and swap the wires, solder them together and heat shrink over them. Otherwise, have ted make you a dedicated ua5 cable so that your stock battery cable can still be used for normal polarity applications.
Reverse polarity devices can be a pita for this reason.
Impotant tip...label this cable as reverse polarity so you dont accidently forget a year from now and burn another piece of gear. Most gear has reverse polarirty protection, as your us5 does, but not all gear has it.
Yep... The UA5 runs opposite normal device in that the "pin" is neg. rather than pos., or maybe its the other way around...
Either way, when I had a UA5, I built a dedicated power cable (4pin XLR > Radio Shack "m" tip put in the adapter backwards) so that I wouldn't get confused and plug it in the wrong way accidentally...
Terry
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Thanks everyone!
So sorry I didn't reply sooner - just covered a show and thankfully my DIY soldered cable held up. Would have loved to get one from Ted but the show was just hours away. At least if it ever fails on me I know who I can turn to. Many thanks once again!
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Thanks everyone!
So sorry I didn't reply sooner - just covered a show and thankfully my DIY soldered cable held up. Would have loved to get one from Ted but the show was just hours away. At least if it ever fails on me I know who I can turn to. Many thanks once again!
First, make sure you have a good solder joint. Slide your heat shink over the cable ends and knot them into place so they don't slide off accidently. Apply flux before soldering the cable ends. I don't pre-tin cable splices because I like to fray the wire ends of both cables and then intermix the frays on both cables then tin the whole she-bang to make a good solder joint...very important to apply flux beforehand.) Once soldered, try to pull it apart and if you can, do it over. If you can't, you should be good. Shrink the heat shrink in place to ensure there are no stray wire strands that can cause a short. Don't skimp on heat shrink...make sure there's plenty of overlap with the existing cable sheath so that bends to the cable won't stress the shrink to expose any wire underneath. I had a fire in my bag summer before last due to a shitty heat shrink job that resulted in a cable short.
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Ouch. Fire in a bag sounds extremely painful. Hope your gear was ok!
Thanks for everything, I managed to work it out today, and I can just *pray* I didn't mess up somewhere and end up with a similar situation.
My session went well though, other than low-light and no way to monitor the audio input into my camera (hence the clipping). The Naztech held up really well for a 2 hour session - I didn't even lose a bar of battery. Great stuff :)
and just a link to the show last night if anyone's interested. I'm a happy man with the results!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztmmyyJBFrc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztmmyyJBFrc)
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Ouch. Fire in a bag sounds extremely painful. Hope your gear was ok!
No gear problems, except my bag got a bit damaged and in the haste to get everything unplugged I burned my fingers a bit. Obviously, that particular cable was nothing but ashes. LOL.
Thanks for everything, I managed to work it out today, and I can just *pray* I didn't mess up somewhere and end up with a similar situation.
Don't be too overly concerned. It's not rocket science. My situation was caused by self induced stupidity and lack of attention to detail with the heat shrink. I usually only learn a lesson when it's the hard way.
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Thanks everyone!
So sorry I didn't reply sooner - just covered a show and thankfully my DIY soldered cable held up. Would have loved to get one from Ted but the show was just hours away. At least if it ever fails on me I know who I can turn to. Many thanks once again!
First, make sure you have a good solder joint. Slide your heat shink over the cable ends and knot them into place so they don't slide off accidently. Apply flux before soldering the cable ends. I don't pre-tin cable splices because I like to fray the wire ends of both cables and then intermix the frays on both cables then tin the whole she-bang to make a good solder joint...very important to apply flux beforehand.) Once soldered, try to pull it apart and if you can, do it over. If you can't, you should be good. Shrink the heat shrink in place to ensure there are no stray wire strands that can cause a short. Don't skimp on heat shrink...make sure there's plenty of overlap with the existing cable sheath so that bends to the cable won't stress the shrink to expose any wire underneath. I had a fire in my bag summer before last due to a shitty heat shrink job that resulted in a cable short.
FIRE!!!!
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Ouch. Fire in a bag sounds extremely painful. Hope your gear was ok!
Thanks for everything, I managed to work it out today, and I can just *pray* I didn't mess up somewhere and end up with a similar situation.
My session went well though, other than low-light and no way to monitor the audio input into my camera (hence the clipping). The Naztech held up really well for a 2 hour session - I didn't even lose a bar of battery. Great stuff :)
and just a link to the show last night if anyone's interested. I'm a happy man with the results!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztmmyyJBFrc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztmmyyJBFrc)
Nice work on the video.
I'm testing the Naztech PB15000 I just received yesterday and after a full charge, I'm at 14 hours run time with AKG 460 w/CK61>R-44 (w/P48 on), and the battery indicator just dropped to 1 bar at 13 hours 50 minutes. I suppose it helps the 460's are quite efficient only pull 1ma. Interested to see how quick it drops off here at the end of my test. The Naztech is looking like a great battery at a great price, $73 on Amazon!