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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: tbrown4 on March 19, 2006, 06:07:22 PM
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Hey folks,
I recently got the AD20 and PS2 and have been powering them with 9V batts. What are my options for rechargable power for these?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Peace
-Tim
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i imagine you can use the 9v LiOn that everyone else here uses for the ua-5, et al. if you use the adapta cord from radio shack, you use the 'b' for the battery and 'f' (i think) for the ps-2 [it is the 1/8 mono plug]. i use rc car battery packs (9.6) that i got with my ua-5 for the ps-2 now by switching out the 'm' tip for the other one.
rechargable 9v have really piss poor Ah's and dont last nearly as long as fresh alkaines or lithium cells.
if you do decide to use external power... **VERY IMPORTANT** plug into the device BEFORE there is juice connected... these denecke products are known to short if there is power in the cord prior to inserting it. several folks have bunk or diminished power units due to this.
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Just to follow up...
I ran into Tim at a show a few days ago and he showed me the super cool 9.6V remote controlled car battery that he's adapted for use with his PS2. I've bought everything I need (the battery,a female plug for the battery's leads terminating with no lead, just about 4" of cable, a mono 3.5mm, and some heat shrink). I'm just wondering what solders where.... does the red cable solder to the short piece of the 3.5mm (as pictured), or the long piece? And the black just goes to the opposite, I know, with care given not to cross them, but if you folks know what goes where, the help would certainly be appreciated!
edit: I've done some research on the anatomy of TRS and the like and determined that the photo below represents how I *think* I should solder the wires. Please yay or nay me if you see something right / wrong
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/travelinbeat/IMG_7885.jpg)
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I called Denecke today and confirmed that indeed the "positive" is the "tip" and the "negative" is the "sleeve." In short, my little dootle above is accurate (of course the cable should be coming out from inside of the plug, rather than in from outside of the plug, to allow space for the shield to slide back down), as is this link to a .pdf which has some very, very, VERY detailed instructions on how to solder power to a mono plug (although keep in mind that though the steps are otherwise identical, the .pdf refers to a 1/4" plug whereas to make this work for a PS-2 you should be using a 1/8" plug):
http://www.eikondevice.com/downloads/Instructions/MonoPlug02.pdf
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Excellent work! Hope it all works out for you.
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Has anyone ever run both devices off one battery with a Y cable? I presume it will work fine. I've just never tried.
I second JeromeJello's comment... you have to plug the cable into the PS2/AD20 when there is no battery on the other end. In other words, plug the PS2/AD20 in FIRST and then the battery second. Heck, plug the cable into the Denecke and tape it into place and leave it there. In the case of 9V DVD player batteries, if you do it the other way around, you will pop the breaker inside the battery every time.
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Has anyone ever run both devices off one battery with a Y cable? I presume it will work fine. I've just never tried.
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I used to power my PS2 and AD20 from one 9.6v R/C car battery and a Y cable. Worked great. No reason it shouldn't.
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Important update to prevent melting of your batteries and other potential damage to gear!
I created this battery unit as per the directions outlined in this thread, however I ended up shorting out somewhere due to the specific type of 1/8" mono plug I bought!
After melting my first RC Battery pack and creating a thread (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130824.0) to solve that problem, I inspected things all a little closer and realized that the mono plug I was using had a protruding plastic case which *might* have been preventing it from sitting all the way snug in. The PS2's hole for the phono-plug looks to have been constructed by drilling a hole out of the casing, and then lining up the actual "guts" of the female end with the hole in the case. Thus, if the plastic shielding on my male was too thick, I couldn't get the connection necessary, as the whole male end, tip and all, wouldn't reach easily (God it's hard not to make jokes right now....).
Next step I've taken has been to buy another 9.6V RC battery and build another Tamiya > 1/8" cable, though this time using Radio Shack's 274-0288 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104063) 1/8" plug instead of their model number 274-286 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062452). Now I have my new cable made with my new model number mono male, and everything is testing perfectly with the multimeter. Below I am including pictures of the two products, as posted on Radio Shack's website, enlarged a bit, and presented with guidelines to emphasize difference.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/travelinbeat/radioshack.jpg)
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It's always a good idea to put a fuse in something like this. Then, remember to bring an extra fuse to shows with you.