Topic: Can Anyone post pics of ORTF bar close ups?

[Teen Wolf Blitzer]

Hey Ian.  Just come over.  I have a din, dina, nos and a custom ortf  kwon bar.  You can play with them up close.

[ArchivalAudio]

Hey Ian.  Just come over.  I have a din, dina, nos and a custom ortf  kwon bar.  You can play with them up close.

Mark,
wow
that would be great!
maybe I'll wait til I get the Milab VM-44 links
but I bet that would help out...

[jerryfreak]

homemade 'universal' ortf bar made out of 2 sg20 clamps that can do any angle (and any spacing if you swap out the spacer in the middle)

http://flickr.com/photos/10466474@N04/2312236166/

[ArchivalAudio]

homemade 'universal' ortf bar made out of 2 sg20 clamps that can do any angle (and any spacing if you swap out the spacer in the middle)

http://flickr.com/photos/10466474@N04/2312236166/

very cool!
what did  you use for the spacer?
or what did you make it out of?
peace
--Ian

[krsb]

Not ORTF...but the other day I improvised a lowprofile Milab solution, basically the two milab mounts joined together. Not sure what pattern it makes, but for a one-shot-two-minute solution it wasn't bad. A starting point...any suggestions welcome. Slightly wider version could be made with the other spacer above.

cb

Hey Ian.  Just come over.  I have a din, dina, nos and a custom ortf  kwon bar.  You can play with them up close.

Mark,
wow
that would be great!
maybe I'll wait til I get the Milab VM-44 links
but I bet that would help out...

[stevetoney]

^^ Nice...

Looks like about 9cm or so. 

As far as suggestions, I'd try to do everything possible to get the mics a bit wider with a longer spacer.  I know I'm not telling you anything new, but DIN, DINa, and ORTF are so popular because the sound delay between the two mics is about the same as the sound delay between our two ears.  The closer you get to that spacing, the sweeter/more natural your recording will sound IMHO. 

You should be able to use some sort of double clamp solution (first clamp on the stand, second clamp on the spacer bar) to attach this to a mic stand.

[krsb]

^^ Nice...

Looks like about 9cm or so. 

As far as suggestions, I'd try to do everything possible to get the mics a bit wider with a longer spacer.  I know I'm not telling you anything new, but DIN, DINa, and ORTF are so popular because the sound delay between the two mics is about the same as the sound delay between our two ears.  The closer you get to that spacing, the sweeter/more natural your recording will sound IMHO. 

You should be able to use some sort of double clamp solution (first clamp on the stand, second clamp on the spacer bar) to attach this to a mic stand.

Good advice,

I think I could get that if I swing them out the other way, like this...but alas, it won't fit in my current canadian setup like this.



cb

[ArchivalAudio]

krsb
thanx for your pics

It gave me another idea

when my VM-44 links arrive
I'll Try it out

it involves
a small section of 1/2 PVC pipe and the mounts with a 1/4 20 threaded rod running thru it

or

possibly
taking the screwed in wire  holders out and using the PVC  drilled to accommodate the  wire holders

either way it works out
I can run it in  one of my shock mounts
and have an adjustable ORTF  to DINa bar
for a sweet low profile option
cool!

[stevetoney]

krsb
thanx for your pics

It gave me another idea

when my VM-44 links arrive
I'll Try it out

it involves
a small section of 1/2 PVC pipe and the mounts with a 1/4 20 threaded rod running thru it

or

possibly
taking the screwed in wire  holders out and using the PVC  drilled to accommodate the  wire holders

either way it works out
I can run it in  one of my shock mounts
and have an adjustable ORTF  to DINa bar
for a sweet low profile option
cool!

As you hint above, there is a size of PVC available at your local hardware store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) where the OD of the pipe exactly mates up perfectly with the size of the A20, Busman, and Joe Meek mounts.  IMHO, that and some creative use of epoxy makes an attractive and compact DIY option a very conceivable possibility for almost any active mic design.

[jerryfreak]

3/4" (or maybe metric 20mm?) pvc rod. ive got 3 feet in my garage if you can 'b and p' me an sase mailer

drilled and tapped 3/8 holes and put studs in there

at ortf spacing, the enlarged flange at the bottom of the sg20 is just a hair over 20mm an needs t be polished with a dremel to clear the a20s center clip

homemade 'universal' ortf bar made out of 2 sg20 clamps that can do any angle (and any spacing if you swap out the spacer in the middle)

http://flickr.com/photos/10466474@N04/2312236166/

very cool!
what did  you use for the spacer?
or what did you make it out of?
peace
--Ian

[ArchivalAudio]

oh PVC Rod....
I read this many time and some how I missed the ROD

interesting...
Thant could be better than the PVC pipe Idea

a B&P could work
but
were did you find such a thing
is it expensive?


I think with the Milab VM-44 Links
and their own wire capsule holder, that I may be able to unscrew the wires from the bottom
and use a similar screw and collar set up to mount the wires in the PVC pipe...
but
I am still awaiting the arrival, so I can actually test my theory

here's what the mount/clip looks like


peaceful holidays

happy solstice!
--  Ian

[jerryfreak]

mcmaster-carr

oh PVC Rod....
I read this many time and some how I missed the ROD

interesting...
Thant could be better than the PVC pipe Idea

a B&P could work
but
were did you find such a thing
is it expensive?

[Todd R]

Well you guys are getting me motivated to try some more diy work on a mounting bar.

I'm not by my stuff or a camera, but I have a few solutions.  First is I bought some 1" wide flat aluminum stock from Home Depot and made something like a diy vark bar or mark bar.  Cut the stock to 6" or so, and drilled holes in the center and pairs an inch or so out from the center and ~3" out from the center.  Got 3/8" threaded rod, wing nuts, and then used the 3/8" to 5/8"-27 adapters I have to allow the mics to me mounted in either set of holes.  Using the center hole, I screwed on a short length of 3/4" wooden dowel rod (inch or two).  The whole mount can slide into an a20s or a Joe Meek style shock using this 3/4" dowel.  The outer holes were made at a distance so that the Milab mics put into the milab mounts makes for a 20cm DIN spacing.  Using the inner holes and the milab mounts, together with a Rapido quick-release mic mount as a riser, I can run the Milabs XY.

The other mounts I have were much easier.  I got an Atlas Sound 3" long 5/8"-27 extension and a 6" extension.  I wrapped both with enough gaffer tape that their diameter was more like 3/4" and they'd fit in my a20s.  The 3" extension with the milab mounts yields something like DIN (21cm spacing vs the 20cm spacing called for by DIN).  The 6" bar together with my Rapido quick-release mount and the Milab mic mounts yields a 30cm spacing for NOS.

That said, I'm going to look into making a DIN and NOS bar using some PVC (either bar or pipe).

I'll try to get pics up of the other diy mounting when I get a chance.

[F.O.Bean]

And if you DO use PVC/Plastic piping, USE SOME PLASTIC PRIMER BEFORE YOU SPRAY PAINT THEM BLACK, and then you need the FUSION PLASTIC SPRAY PAINT, or they WILL CHIP/FLAKE OFF very quickly

[audBall]

And if you DO use PVC/Plastic piping, USE SOME PLASTIC PRIMER BEFORE YOU SPRAY PAINT THEM BLACK, and then you need the FUSION PLASTIC SPRAY PAINT, or they WILL CHIP/FLAKE OFF very quickly

What I generally do is take fine grit sandpaper to the shiny PVC.  It gives it a 'matte' texture and allows paint/marker to stick easier without going the primer route.  It also reduces light reflection off the bar and helps things blend in a bit in low light situations.