Topic: Schoeps Clips

[twoodruff]

What clips will hold a capsule and a kcy cable?

[JasonR]

The Schoeps SGC is a great little clip, but not known for its long term durability, so the SGCm (a metal version) may be worth considering.

[F.O.Bean]

What clips will hold a capsule and a kcy cable?

Do you want it to hold the capsule? Oktava mounts do that! Or the kcy collette end? SGC do that

[JasonR]

I'm sure it's more expensive than the Oktava one, but Schoeps also makes a small 20mm clip of course - the SG20.

[tgakidis]

Chinese knock off for $7.95 shipped.  I got four of these the other day and they look like they will break just as easily as the scheops version 
I made an offer of $6.00 each ($24 total) and it was accepted.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300691162215?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[JasonR]

That's a nice deal!  Redding sells an updated replacement of the bit that always breaks for only $3.  If it happens to fit the Chinese knock-off too, that would be very nice.
http://www.reddingaudiostore.com/catalog/item/8157888/8838878.htm

[gormenghast]

Is it me or is it difficult to mount KCY cables into the SGC?  I feel like they will break, or the cable will bend too much while trying to mount.  I'm thinking maybe the SG20 might be a better route to mount KCY>mk4 on a Vark, or Darktrain bar. 

[JasonR]

The old style SGC clips are a little fragile, but I've never broken one in use - only when dropping a mic stand or tossing it in my car with the clips still in place.  However, I don't use the KCY cable, so I've never had the extra weight of the junction box to deal with.  The new design seems like a nice improvement and an affordable DIY fix as well.

[hi and lo]

You won't be able to use windscreens with the SG20

[F.O.Bean]

I still stand by my Oktava mic mounts. They can be had here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oktava-MK-012-Original-Stand-Mount-Silver-or-Black-/360214087093?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Microphones&hash=item53de6ec5b5

and this is what you get used w/ my mk41s. I can still fit Large DPA Screens+Dead rats on them. Never tried the big ass shures tho I would imagine they would work too

                             

[twoodruff]

Does it leave marks on the caps?

[F.O.Bean]

Does it leave marks on the caps?

Nope, I wouldnt use them if they did

Yeah, theyre like felt lined or something

[gormenghast]

So, I thought about leaving the SGC's on the KCY to loosen them up.  Well, that was my thinking anyway    And it did it.  They are easier to mount and don't feel like they will break or bend the cable.  What a relief. 

[audBall]

^ That's good to hear. I'm curious, though, how would mounting them into the SGC bend the cable?

[fsulloway]

That's a nice deal!  Redding sells an updated replacement of the bit that always breaks for only $3.  If it happens to fit the Chinese knock-off too, that would be very nice.
http://www.reddingaudiostore.com/catalog/item/8157888/8838878.htm

they look sturdier actually. Have you used these?

[audBall]

I noticed Posthorn carries those as well for $2.50/each. The part number is SCH388.

edit - I just placed an order with Jerry at Posthorn. The total + shipping were a little cheaper than Redding.

[gormenghast]

^ That's good to hear. I'm curious, though, how would mounting them into the SGC bend the cable?

Initially, it was very difficult to mount the KCY into the SGC.  By forcing it the cable would bend some, so I would back off and slowly twist until it was in.  Now they easily slip right in with the right enough tightness to keep them mounted.

[audBall]

Here are some photos of the Y-clip swap with the sturdier ones made by Schoeps (SCH388). The mount used is the Chinese replica from ebay. The first image has all parts, original and new (except nuts and bolts). The replacements are at the far right with the two in the middle being the originals. The second picture is after the assembly. The material of the SCH388 is much nicer and more durable. It has some minor "give" and flex and is not brittle like the original material. Everything pictured cost about $20.

[hi and lo]

+t

I may actually consider SGC's again after seeing these pics.

[audBall]

I guess it should be mentioned, and since we're tapers and concerned about every nook and cranny of our rig (no matter how small and low-pro it is), that the mount is limited by its weakest link now. The base. My plan is to wrap the base in gaffer tape and hope not to strip the inside screwing it onto a tbar x amount of times.

[tim in jersey]

I guess it should be mentioned, and since we're tapers and concerned about every nook and cranny of our rig (no matter how small and low-pro it is), that the mount is limited by its weakest link now. The base. My plan is to wrap the base in gaffer tape and hope not to strip the inside screwing it onto a tbar x amount of times.

The base is its Achilles heel IME. Even the SGC-M uses the plastic base.

If I were to were to run them again, I'd Thred-Loc a reducer bushing like this into the base of the SGC-(M): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/503797-REG/General_Brand_NPTRB_3_8_to_1_4_20_Tripod.html

And Thred-Loc a 1/4"-20(M)>3/8"(F) adapter like this in to the the reducer bushing: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/909488-REG/WindTech_M_8_3_8_16_F_to_1_4_20_M_THREAD.html

Voilà metal base/threads that won't crack or strip...

I did something similar with my A-20 and it worked like a champ.

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=44821.0

[F.O.Bean]

I guess it should be mentioned, and since we're tapers and concerned about every nook and cranny of our rig (no matter how small and low-pro it is), that the mount is limited by its weakest link now. The base. My plan is to wrap the base in gaffer tape and hope not to strip the inside screwing it onto a tbar x amount of times.

The base is its Achilles heel IME. Even the SGC-M uses the plastic base.

If I were to were to run them again, I'd Thred-Loc a reducer bushing like this into the base of the SGC-(M): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/503797-REG/General_Brand_NPTRB_3_8_to_1_4_20_Tripod.html

And Thred-Loc a 1/4"-20(M)>3/8"(F) adapter like this in to the the reducer bushing: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/909488-REG/WindTech_M_8_3_8_16_F_to_1_4_20_M_THREAD.html

Voilà metal base/threads that won't crack or strip...

I did something similar with my A-20 and it worked like a champ.

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=44821.0

I superglued 5/8">1/4" adapters in the bases of my a20s shocks so I never have to worry about them cracking and so they are universal with my clamps/mounts

[tim in jersey]

Exactly. Never have to worry about stripping the threads or splitting the base by accidentally overtightening...

[followinbob]

make a metal adaptor to go to the stand with a delrin mic clip. that will be rigid where you need it but flexible and won't scratch the capsule.