Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: F.O.Bean on October 31, 2004, 06:03:30 PM
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:-*
Brian Skalinder, edit: Original thread (http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=10272.0).
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is this a "made ya look" type post? ;)
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hehe, kinda
i figured if anyone had any newer info, that it could be posted here
i am all about powering the jb3 ala rc batts, so i will prolly have some new info for us :)
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Here's web page I found on 5V power supplies, there are a bunch out there, but this one made it real easy to assemble.
http://www.play-hookey.com/analog/experiments/plus_5_volt_ps.html
Check out the circuit assembly tool near the bottom of the page.
Here's a picture of mine I built last night (few extra wires in there, but the main circuit is on the left side). Fun experiment anyway. Not sure if I'll actually take the plunge and solder to an IC board. But that would be a fun little project. Ran a few tests and everything seemed to work great. I didn't run an all night test or anything, the longest I ran it was for 1:30hr. But everything was cool and nothing was smoking on the board ;)
(http://jdaly.homelinux.org:2112/photos/power.gif)
-john
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Here's web page I found on 5V power supplies, there are a bunch out there, but this one made it real easy to assemble.
http://www.play-hookey.com/analog/experiments/plus_5_volt_ps.html
Check out the circuit assembly tool near the bottom of the page.
Here's a picture of mine I built last night (few extra wires in there, but the main circuit is on the left side). Fun experiment anyway. Not sure if I'll actually take the plunge and solder to an IC board. But that would be a fun little project. Ran a few tests and everything seemed to work great. I didn't run an all night test or anything, the longest I ran it was for 1:30hr. But everything was cool and nothing was smoking on the board ;)
(http://jdaly.homelinux.org:2112/photos/power.gif)
-john
with a v. regulator like the 7805, you gotta take into account the amount of current the jb3 will need, thus heat dissipation when fed by a 12v or 9.6v source.
i'm gonna pick up a jb3 from Ebay and see what kind of runtime it will have with a VR in place. also, the physical size of the circuit, durablility in the field and workmanship are on the high priority list as well.
marc
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This thread will help some with running multiple devices (inc a jb3) off of multiple batts.
http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=29217.0
Matt
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got some voltage output data for the regulator circuit i'm working on.
input: 24v (actual 21.91v)
output: 5.20v
input: 12v (actual 11.17v)
output: 5.20v
input: 9.6v (actual 9.3v)
output: 5.21v
input: 7.2v (actual 7.15v)
output: 5.20
input: 6v (actual 5.34)
output: 3.97v
the circuit is very compact and basically can be placed inline in a small hobby box with xlr panel mounts, if necessary.
the regulator IC can handle 1.5A of current so that should be more than ample.
now, who wants to send me their jb3 for testing? ;D
marc
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marc, i have 2 jb3's, i could loan you one for a little bit if you need...
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Marc,
Can share the circuit design? Especially the 9.6v input version. Been having some issues with outputing 5.00v's, so I'm thinking maybe 5.21 may do the trick.
thanks
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Marc,
Can share the circuit design? Especially the 9.6v input version. Been having some issues with outputing 5.00v's, so I'm thinking maybe 5.21 may do the trick.
thanks
it's similar to this based on the LM317T
(http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Circuits/Power/lm317reg.gif)
governing equation is: Vout=1.25(1+R2/R1). R1 is fixed. so, various Vout can be achieved by adjusting R2. as long as the Vin > 2.5v over Vout, this VR circuit will work fine in our application and is very compact.
marc
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much appreciated! And I just made it before rat shack closed!
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Would you mind running a test with 7.2 volts as the input source.
Thanks
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Would you mind running a test with 7.2 volts as the input source.
Thanks
sure. see above.
as you can see, the regulated voltage is stable across the Vin values EXCEPT for the 6v. there isn't enough of a V differential.
marc
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Would you mind running a test with 7.2 volts as the input source.
Thanks
sure. see above.
as you can see, the regulated voltage is stable across the Vin values EXCEPT for the 6v. there isn't enough of a V differential.
marc
+t thanks for the update. If this works w/ a JB3 i can ditch my lead and hook into my UA5 powering solution
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Would you mind running a test with 7.2 volts as the input source.
Thanks
sure. see above.
as you can see, the regulated voltage is stable across the Vin values EXCEPT for the 6v. there isn't enough of a V differential.
marc
+t thanks for the update. If this works w/ a JB3 i can ditch my lead and hook into my UA5 powering solution
i ran my sony cd walkman (takes 4.5v) with the vr circuit and it worked fine. hopefully, i'll test out the jb3 soon.
marc
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Would you mind running a test with 7.2 volts as the input source.
Thanks
sure. see above.
as you can see, the regulated voltage is stable across the Vin values EXCEPT for the 6v. there isn't enough of a V differential.
marc
+t thanks for the update. If this works w/ a JB3 i can ditch my lead and hook into my UA5 powering solution
i ran my sony cd walkman (takes 4.5v) with the vr circuit and it worked fine. hopefully, i'll test out the jb3 soon.
marc
mark, so this works like a charm w/ a 9.6v rc battery too ???
if so, i have a 12v 12 amp for sale :)
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To me, Marc's comments indicate that he hasn't yet had the opportunity to test the VR with a JB3 --
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i bet it works just fine :)
i think im gonna do the rc battery thing myself, and put 4-pins on everything
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i bet it works just fine :)
i think im gonna do the rc battery thing myself, and put 4-pins on everything
bean, as long as the jb3 is happy with 5.2volts, then it should be fine. the voltage is regulated at 5.2v and can deliver up to 1.5A of current with ease. you could probably run 2 jb3 simultaneously or 3 Sony DAT decks at a time.
marc
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thanks marc, it works at 4.5 volt just fine, so hopefully it does fine w/ 5.2 also
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In the middle of a r/c 9.6v test running through this circuit delivering 5.19v (~5.15v while recording) - still recording after 1 hour. Although the LM317 gets mighty hot at ~190-200F
Resitor Values: R2 = 470 ohm R1 = 150 ohm
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In the middle of a r/c 9.6v test running through this circuit delivering 5.19v (~5.15v while recording) - still recording after 1 hour. Although the LM317 gets mighty hot at ~190-200F
Resitor Values: R2 = 470 ohm R1 = 150 ohm
so the jb3 is fine with 5.2v...that's good to hear. it's recommended that you install heat sinks for the LM317 since it can handle good amount of current.
marc
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Is there anyway to get that value to fall between 4.5V and 5.0V? I think that'd be ideal. Or is 5.2V the only way to work it out? Sounds like that still may work out though.
The 1.5A of current should be fine...the only part that it may cut it close is upon startup where it does exceed 1 amp(dunno if with or without internals batteries in makes a difference in that value).
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Is there anyway to get that value to fall between 4.5V and 5.0V? I think that'd be ideal. Or is 5.2V the only way to work it out? Sounds like that still may work out though.
The 1.5A of current should be fine...the only part that it may cut it close is upon startup where it does exceed 1 amp(dunno if with or without internals batteries in makes a difference in that value).
with R2=470, R1=150 Vout=1.25(1+R2/R1)=5.16667v, which is very close to 5.2v. one could use lower tolerance resistors and get the Vout closer to 5v.
if you wanted Vout=4.5v, then R2 would need to be: [(4.5/1.25)-1]*150=390ohms. personally, if jb3 work fine at 5.0 to 5.2v, then i would run it at those voltages.
marc
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What is the advantage of building the resistor box over hacking a car adaptor??? I don't get it.
Matt
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What is the advantage of building the resistor box over hacking a car adaptor??? I don't get it.
Matt
I am going to test my car adapter on 7.2 volts and possibly other input voltages to see if it yields succcesfull results. I am going to hack mine further if test are succesfull. I am worried that the car adapter will have trouble taking a non 12v source and getting 4.5v.
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What is the advantage of building the resistor box over hacking a car adaptor??? I don't get it.
Matt
matt;
a VR power supply is much better that a "resistor box". a resistor box is not regulated. when your voltage drops, it simply drops. with a VR circuit, Vout is steady.
marc
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I believe Matt was erroneously referring to lee's regulated supply as a resistor box. To (try to) clarify, the box Lee's building would take a wide range of incoming voltages and convert the incoming voltage down to 5.2 volts for the jb3. It does this by using a voltage regulator on an integrated circuit chip.
The car adaptor is designed to only be fed 12 volts. Thus, unless it uitilizes a voltage regulator similar to that Lee's using, it would not properly reduce an incoming voltage of other than 12 volts down to the 5.2 needed by the jb3. Lee's adaptor would allow folks to use non-12-volt batteries such as the 9.6v and 7.2v rc car packs and the ubiquitous wallmart 9v lithium ion battery to directly power their jb3s
Very interested in hearing how long a single wallmart 9v would power both a ua5 (with phantom on) and a jb3 :)
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Creative's car adapter works with 9.6v rc batts. I can try the wally bat tonight and let you know, but I'm sure it will work too.
Rob C reports 10hours for a ua-5 w/ phantom off the wally bat. I've never let it go that long, but 4 hours only takes out the first led on the battery's meter.
JAson
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NICE -- let me know what you find from your testing :)
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Just wanted to throw in that the JB3 is happy up to 5.6v so no need to worry about the 5.2
But I am curious, why bother with the LM317 variable supply and setting up the resistors to drive 5v - why not just use a 7805 that is fixed at 5.0 v
You get 1.5 A of regulated current for 75 cents! Current capacity is all about heat sinking anyways. With linear devices, the higher the voltage in, the more the regulator has to burn off, the better you have to heat sink it. Because of that, you really don't want high input voltage - the regulator needs at least ~1.7v of 'headroom' for stable regulation.
So a 7.2v source is good here - it will start at 8.4v fully charged and by the time it drops to 7 (where the 'headroom' is running out) you are minutes away from the end.
Using higher voltage batteries means more heat. There is no battery life advantage with higher voltage.
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I believe Matt was erroneously referring to lee's regulated supply as a resistor box. To (try to) clarify, the box Lee's building would take a wide range of incoming voltages and convert the incoming voltage down to 5.2 volts for the jb3. It does this by using a voltage regulator on an integrated circuit chip.
The car adaptor is designed to only be fed 12 volts. Thus, unless it uitilizes a voltage regulator similar to that Lee's using, it would not properly reduce an incoming voltage of other than 12 volts down to the 5.2 needed by the jb3. Lee's adaptor would allow folks to use non-12-volt batteries such as the 9.6v and 7.2v rc car packs and the ubiquitous wallmart 9v lithium ion battery to directly power their jb3s
Very interested in hearing how long a single wallmart 9v would power both a ua5 (with phantom on) and a jb3 :)
this is where I'm confused. I've ALWAYS used my hacked walmart adaptor with 9.6 RC batts. It works flawlessly. Start up, record, with internal batts, without... it doesn't matter. Have you all been assuming you need 12v for a car adaptor?
Matt
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Until now :)
thanks for the clarification -- if Jason confirms that the 12 v adaptor will also work with a 9v lithium ion batt, I'm golden :)
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Now if we could just throw a small regulator in line with the power cord, and reduce the size down to nothing more than a lump in a cord, I would be interested in changing, but a big advantage of the car adaptor is you can have a connection to reattach the cig lighter plug and charge/listen in the car. I actually do that a lot.
Matt
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Yep, I can also confirm my current setup of Wallmart car adapter w/ 9.6 V batteries works flawlessly(4.5 V setting). But if something much smaller size wise that would still be nice to have too.
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another confirmation that 9.6 v batteries work fine. A while ago I wired up something that provides straight 9.6v to the UA-5 and runs a car adapter for the JB3. i.e. One battery for both devices. Someone asked me about this a while ago..I've got a picture here somewhere.
found it
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Cool, thanks for the pic. That certainly clears up my confusion about hacking the creative car adapter. Meaning, I had bought a car adapter from radio shack that had an adjustable voltage switch (mounted within the cig lighter plug) not as a separate box in line.
Anyway, just ran the JB3 using the lm317 circuit for 6.5 hours from the 9.6v rc batt. Just passing along the results.
The only reason I'm trying this circuit is because it looked like a fun little project, otherwise, the "creative" car adapter seems like an easy route, but I also wanted to use hardware that I already had on hand. Now if I could just learn how to transfer this circuit from the breadboard to a chip and solder everything together, I'd be golden.
-john
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Just wanted to throw in that the JB3 is happy up to 5.6v so no need to worry about the 5.2
But I am curious, why bother with the LM317 variable supply and setting up the resistors to drive 5v - why not just use a 7805 that is fixed at 5.0 v
You get 1.5 A of regulated current for 75 cents! Current capacity is all about heat sinking anyways. With linear devices, the higher the voltage in, the more the regulator has to burn off, the better you have to heat sink it. Because of that, you really don't want high input voltage - the regulator needs at least ~1.7v of 'headroom' for stable regulation.
So a 7.2v source is good here - it will start at 8.4v fully charged and by the time it drops to 7 (where the 'headroom' is running out) you are minutes away from the end.
Using higher voltage batteries means more heat. There is no battery life advantage with higher voltage.
>>Just wanted to throw in that the JB3 is happy up to 5.6v so no need to worry about the 5.2
thanks for this info. i fully assumed that a jb3 will operate safely at 5.2v.
>>But I am curious, why bother with the LM317 variable supply and setting up the resistors to drive 5v - why not just use a 7805 that is fixed at 5.0 v
in the case for the jb3, a VR circuit with a 7805 will work just as well. however, i'm looking at this from an overall power supply solution. as we all know that different equipments require different operating voltages (ie. jb3=4.5-5v, d7/d8=6v, d100/m1=4.5-6v). by designing a robust VR circuit with the LM317, i can achieve the desired Vout by simply manipulating resistors. i don't have to go and get 7805 for 5v, 7806 for 6v, etc.
>>You get 1.5 A of regulated current for 75 cents!
LM317 packages aren't too expensive either AND much more versatile to suit a specific Vout need.
hope you can see where i'm coming from.
marc
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I tried earlier in the summer building a voltage regulator with minimal success, the spikes of the HD spin would lock it up when I tried using all my different circuits, over thanksgiving when i go home i'll dig out hte circuit diagrams and throw em up here to see what people can make out of it. I had used a 4 D sled and through a series of resistors ect lowered it to a voltage where the JB3 would record but after 2 minutes it would lock up. A few times I smoked the components, that was fun.
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google-ing for 5v power, i came upon a surveillance camera company that has a 5V 2000mAh lithium battery pack with charger for a wireless spy cam. wonder if it will work with the jb3
http://www.taisun.com/ts-505vinfo.htm
tiger direct has something similar a little cheaper, and 3600 mAh
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=318871&sku=D135-1032
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in the "Nomad Batteries are getting rare" thread someone post this link and said that this works with the nomad
http://www.pwrplant.com/cd.html
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Getting back to hacked car adapters. I just got an "official" Creative car power adapter. Wiring it up to a 9.6v RC batt puts out about 3.5v, not enough to operate the JB3. The input voltage on the adaptor lump is listed as 12-24v, so I guess that's why I'm not getting sufficient voltage on the JB3 end.
Anybody out there using the Creative car adapter successfuly? Am I missing something? For those succesfully using the ballzmart car adapters, do they list input voltage, and what's the part number on that bad boy?. I'm determined to run a UA-5/JB3 combo from one type of battery (non SLA that is)!! Thanks!
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I run the wally world adapto from 9.6 v rc batts with absolutly no problems... I don't have a part number but it was the bigger of the two available (2000 mah I think)
Matt
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I run the wally world adapto from 9.6 v rc batts with absolutly no problems... I don't have a part number but it was the bigger of the two available (2000 mah I think)
Matt
i have a few of those :)
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before i packed up my things for the cross country move, i got the voltage regulator circuit to output 4.97V with an input of 7-24volts. i should have the first prototype done for Bean to test out in the field.
marc
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before i packed up my things for the cross country move, i got the voltage regulator circuit to output 4.97V with an input of 7-24volts. i should have the first prototype done for Bean to test out in the field.
marc
i didnt wanna say anything till you did :)
im REALLY psyched about those mark, bet/hope this works like a charm ;D
cant wait to be able to power v3 and jb3 when needed off of rc batts :)
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Nice! At ts.com, help is always just around the corner!
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Nice! At ts.com, help is always just around the corner!
That is so true... this community is great. It never ceases to amaze me how people jump up to help one another. So unlike most online communities. Almost never a scuffel either. The people who make problems usually leave on there own accord, and the nice people remain.
Matt
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Well my little DIY project for the day was to build a VR like lee's. But I got to thinking about powering my jb3 with stuff I had around the house. I use to power my JB3 with an SLA>Radio Shack Car Adaptor with mulit voltage setting set on 4.5. I began thinking why wire a board when I can just hack this thing. So here is my latest solution. It runs on a Walmart Lion battery.
Parts:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F002%5F004&product%5Fid=273%2D1811
(I had the older model with a wheel like selector)
Walmart Lion battery
Power cable from Lion battery
butt connectors
wire striper
Open up the car adaptor. Cut the read and black wires attached to the cigarett plug (Cut them as close to the cigaret plug as possible). Strip off 1/2 and inch on insulation. Hack the lion cable, cut it as close the tip as possible. The tip opposite of the one that plugs into the battery. Use a butt connector to connect the red wires from the cable and the red wire from the car adaptor. Do the same with the black. Screw the car adaptor back together and you are ready to go to town. If you dont use the Lion battery form walmart you can use RC batteries, but but use a female connector. Its really easy.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/bagtagsell/P1010134.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/bagtagsell/P1010136.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/bagtagsell/P1010137.jpg)
I took my dremel and hollowed out the old cigaret molding, so it protects my butt connectors. Just b/c I could.
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I'm a little confused. That first pic doesn't look like the same device as the radio shack one shown below.. can you be more precise in your explanation?
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the pic is of the old model car adaptor, the one I have. I bought it a month ago at RS in town. I couldn't find the exact part online, but I think they may still have it. The first pic is the car adaptor with the top off. Once you take the top off, the male car plug comes off. The last pic is after I dremeled out the male plug so it would protect my wires more. Hope that helps
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Bagtagsell, Could you post a picture of your complete power setup? UA5, JB3, battery, Ratshack adapter etc? Thank you on a fine job.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/leegeddy/vr-jbox/vr-jbox.jpg)
here's a sneak peak of the Bumblebee "VR-JBox". the project has picked up steam again now that i got a roof over my head and all the west coast > east coast move is finished.
the above version is the 2 output model. input will be on the other side of the box via 4pin male.
mr. bean wanted a 5v/6v version to run his jb3/v3 respectively. hopefully he'll give it a whirl and provide me with some feedback.
marc
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cant wait marc ;D 8)
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I run the wally world adapto from 9.6 v rc batts with absolutly no problems... I don't have a part number but it was the bigger of the two available (2000 mah I think)
Matt
I made a call to the supplier/manuf of the car adapter I bought for this purpose and he said that the adaptor will step down voltages as long as there was at least a 3 volt diferential between the source and the output desired. This is why Matt's experience is working WNP (with no problems).
I got a PM about this business and am still wondering why all the bother with ext. pwr for the JB3? By now most of us have two of the things, with both batts and between the two... who can't run 12hrs? What am I missing? Or am I just missing the fun of the hack ;D I suppose if the batt supply does dry up one may need this option...
Carry on.
the main objective of the VR-JBox is to have multiple (and desired) voltage outputs so i can run various equipment and to minimize the size of the power supply.
personally, i don't open tape much. but when i do, i find it cumbersome to carry different power supply for my dats, pre, adc, etc. so if i can carry a single input voltage source, let's say 12v or 9.6v, and can have various output voltages like 4.5v, 6v and 7.5v then i'm all for it.
jb3's operating voltage range seem to be very narrow from what i've seen, and the best way (imho) to remedy that is via a regulated voltage supply.
...and diy projects are kinda fun too... :)
marc
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Cool box marc! yeah, I think I mess around with this stuff just for the fun of it, but for 99% of the shows I tape these days the internal JB3 battery will do just fine. Slightly off topic: I tried the Sony PlayStation 2 with the 9.6v r/c battery and it works great ;D
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I have a Micrel MIC29502 circuit,a regulator w/shutdown. All SMD, got the circuit from a Dutch RC plane site.
Very tiny, could fit in an XLR, don't know if it'll take 12v in or it's current capacity (guess 3A) , it was built for my PDA Very efficient
http://home.concepts-ict.nl/%7Edelemarre/id41.htm
(http://home.concepts-ict.nl/%7Edelemarre/1710e300.jpg)
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here are a few of the total package pics as per requested. If you can't find the jb3 car adaptor your local RS will have something that works
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/bagtagsell/P1010146.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/bagtagsell/P1010145.jpg)
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That looks pretty sharp! That RS adapter though can't be rated much higher than 1amp... do you ever run into problems starting up the JB3?
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That looks pretty sharp! That RS adapter though can't be rated much higher than 1amp... do you ever run into problems starting up the JB3?
the adapter they have here at wal-mart is 1.5amp
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Oh really? Wow.. the highest I could find up here was 1amp... maybe they put out a new line since.. I should take a look. Do those adapters have built in fuses?
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I always just use the internal batteries to turn it on.
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Yeah, I guess during regular recording, the JB3 won't pull more than 1amp... I used a 1amp adapter a while back for a few shows and it seemed to work fine. I was just paranoid so I got that walmart 2amp adapter but it shit the bed on me a few months back. I'm looking into that VR box that is being discussed now... still gotta find a walmart lion battery though.... it's hard to find all this shit up in canada.
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the vr box will accept 7.2v-35v to my knowledge
im gonna put 4-pins on my rc batts and roll w/ it
just build a 4-pin>jb3 cable one too
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This box looks very tasty. But it would mean order 4 pins, and I love getting everything local. Lee is my hero
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This box looks very tasty. But it would mean order 4 pins, and I love getting everything local. Lee is my hero
4 pins just means you can use the same cables as you would with SLA or other pro-style powering systems.
+T to lee for keeping things standard (instead of creating ANOTHER uniquely pinned cable to sort out)...
Rick
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i think this will be handy in my bag at any show
my 2 internals work for most anything i tape, untill the summertime for festies.
im having a custom cable made out of 2 wally l-ion pack cords to wire 2 l-ion packs together to get 9v 10.8AH > 5v and 6v outputs
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wonder if he could make one with 3 putputs? 1 5v for my jb3 and 2 6v outputs. that extra 6v output would save the day for some taper eventually, and would make running an extra piece of gear much easier (like the mini-mp i borrow from time to time :) )... hmmm
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im pretty sure he can dustin, we discussed this awhile back
originally, he wanted it to have a 7.2-35v input> 5v
> 6v
and input=output
so if youre running 7.2v in, then youd have a 7.2v out also
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Until now :)
thanks for the clarification -- if Jason confirms that the 12 v adaptor will also work with a 9v lithium ion batt, I'm golden :)
Sorry to have spaced on ya.
It starts up fine on the walmart 9v. I scrolled menus and played back a.o.k.
I'll do a record time test over the weekend.
JAson
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im pretty sure he can dustin, we discussed this awhile back
originally, he wanted it to have a 7.2-35v input> 5v
> 6v
and input=output
so if youre running 7.2v in, then youd have a 7.2v out also
yup. i can add additional outputs as long as the total current draw doesn't exceed the LM317's specs (1.5A).
in dustin's case, he wants another 6v output to power a preamp. rather than spliting the output of the 6v VR circuit to 2, i'll simply add another 6v VR circuit so each 6v output can handle 1.5A of current draw, rather than 1.5A total.
i'll simply need to get a slightly larger Hammond box to accomodate the 3 XLR panel mounts
marc
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+T marc ;D 8)
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im pretty sure he can dustin, we discussed this awhile back
originally, he wanted it to have a 7.2-35v input> 5v
> 6v
and input=output
so if youre running 7.2v in, then youd have a 7.2v out also
yup. i can add additional outputs as long as the total current draw doesn't exceed the LM317's specs (1.5A).
in dustin's case, he wants another 6v output to power a preamp. rather than spliting the output of the 6v VR circuit to 2, i'll simply add another 6v VR circuit so each 6v output can handle 1.5A of current draw, rather than 1.5A total.
i'll simply need to get a slightly larger Hammond box to accomodate the 3 XLR panel mounts
marc
Marc, you are the fucking MAN. cant thank you enough
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so.......are orders being placed to leegeddy for this? I think there are many that would love to have this...including me....
any ideas on the $?? time??
looks great..+t
glad to see you got settled in to hotlanta!
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well, im sure once theyve been tested bullet-proof, they'll be for sale :)
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Looking for some feedback here.
I hacked a lighter adapter that lets you adjust the voltage.
I have everything connected and I see the green LED turn on, on the lighter adapter.
The lighter adapter is only rated up to 1000 mah, that is not going to cut it is it?
I read in the archive peak power is 1.2 mah. So I am guessing it is not going to fly with only 1?
When I plug in the external (battery) power the unit powers up. But it does not seem to actually
run the unit. If I take the internal battery out, the unit will not power up or anything.
My voltmeter does not go down that low to test the power so I am not sure what the voltage is.
I left the JB3 on the external battery overnight just to see if it was working or not and of course
this morning the internal battery was dead.
Besides going out and buying a new adapter rated at a higher MAH, and buying a voltmeter
to test things with, any ideas ? Get a new adapter rated at a higher MAH?
-
Looking for some feedback here.
I hacked a lighter adapter that lets you adjust the voltage.
I have everything connected and I see the green LED turn on, on the lighter adapter.
The lighter adapter is only rated up to 1000 mah, that is not going to cut it is it?
I read in the archive peak power is 1.2 mah. So I am guessing it is not going to fly with only 1?
When I plug in the external (battery) power the unit powers up. But it does not seem to actually
run the unit. If I take the internal battery out, the unit will not power up or anything.
My voltmeter does not go down that low to test the power so I am not sure what the voltage is.
I left the JB3 on the external battery overnight just to see if it was working or not and of course
this morning the internal battery was dead.
Besides going out and buying a new adapter rated at a higher MAH, and buying a voltmeter
to test things with, any ideas ? Get a new adapter rated at a higher MAH?
I'm not sure that anyone ever tried and failed with a 1 mah converter. The 1.2 thing came up because that is what the included jb3 ac power converter puts out (If my memory serves) seems to me that it was only assumed that 1mah would not power the unit up, but it would run it. IF it does nothing without the internals, you should double check your polarity (and make sure you are set at 4.5-5v). You probably have the adaptaplug reversed. I'm betting that the 1mah will work just fine, as the factory converters are usually over rated for power anyway. In the first 3000 posts on this subject somebody quoted a test from another forum stating that the current draw during startup peaked at about 1mah (here again... if memory serves). Try the polarity, and then let us know what happens.
Matt
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Yea I flipped the adaptaplug around a few different times, I thought that was the problem.
Hmm.. Well I guess I need to find a voltmeter that reads that low.
I also want to try a different adaptaplug. I just was using one that came with the car kit.
Maybe...
I also thought about the startup juice that it requires that is why I tested without the internal after
the JB3 powered up. Can't do much now while at work but food for thought for tonight.
+T for the reply
-
You should also try starting the unit up on the internalsand then pulling them after you are running... that will tell the tale. +T back atcha
Matt
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You should also try starting the unit up on the internalsand then pulling them after you are running... that will tell the tale. +T back atcha
Matt
Yea I did that right after I first tried to see if the external was actually powering the unit.
After I had all the wires soldered together, I plugged it into the Jb3, the unit instantly powered on.
I was happy with that, so I then proceeded to remove the internal.
As soon as the internal was removed the Unit shut down. :(
I also as you mentioned powered it up off the internal, then plugged in the external.
The little icon stayed on the battery icon. I then removed the internal and again the Unit instantly powered down.
As I mentioned I am getting power to the actual adapter, or at least the green led on the adapter turns on... I kept the wires correct so I know those are not backwards and the solder job was pretty decent. Or maybe I am kidding myself ;)
Maybe the light in the head will flip when i get home and mess with it again.
-
I know when I wired mine up (2mah wallmart adaptor) I had it all wired perfect and nothing, but then I switched the adaptaplug around and it worked. The directions for tip/ring on the convertor were confusing. Good luck!
Matt
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so.......are orders being placed to leegeddy for this? I think there are many that would love to have this...including me....
any ideas on the $?? time??
looks great..+t
glad to see you got settled in to hotlanta!
Is Legeddy offering his services in building one of these? If so I'd love to get in on it. Thanks.
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Is Legeddy offering his services in building one of these? If so I'd love to get in on it. Thanks.
im not sure, i know me and bean are gonna test run a few of them
and i can tell you now, the price will be right ;)
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Is Legeddy offering his services in building one of these? If so I'd love to get in on it. Thanks.
im not sure, i know me and bean are gonna test run a few of them
and i can tell you now, the price will be right ;)
"The price is wrong. BITCH."
:)
-
Well my little DIY project for the day was to build a VR like lee's. But I got to thinking about powering my jb3 with stuff I had around the house. I use to power my JB3 with an SLA>Radio Shack Car Adaptor with mulit voltage setting set on 4.5. I began thinking why wire a board when I can just hack this thing. So here is my latest solution. It runs on a Walmart Lion battery.
Parts:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F002%5F004&product%5Fid=273%2D1811
(I had the older model with a wheel like selector)
Walmart Lion battery
Power cable from Lion battery
butt connectors
wire striper
Open up the car adaptor. Cut the read and black wires attached to the cigarett plug (Cut them as close to the cigaret plug as possible). Strip off 1/2 and inch on insulation. Hack the lion cable, cut it as close the tip as possible. The tip opposite of the one that plugs into the battery. Use a butt connector to connect the red wires from the cable and the red wire from the car adaptor. Do the same with the black. Screw the car adaptor back together and you are ready to go to town. If you dont use the Lion battery form walmart you can use RC batteries, but but use a female connector. Its really easy.
I took my dremel and hollowed out the old cigaret molding, so it protects my butt connectors. Just b/c I could.
Bagtagsell,
I just finished doing the mod that you described a few pages back (page 4) and just wanted to give
you a HUGE + Friggin' T for posting this !!!!!!!
It only took about 15mins to do, and it worked like a charm.
Also, just to let everyone know, the power adapter that is in the pics on page 4, is being discontinued, so I was able to buy it on clearance for $9.95.
Also, the specs for the adapter I bought were that it was a 1.2amp adapter. I think this is probably the minimum that will work. Yesterday, I had a sony car lighter adapter just collecting dust at home, so I tried to hack that instead of buying one. It was a 4.5v w/ 1amp, but it didnt work. It scrolled through the Creative screen, then to the EAX screen, but that is as far as it went, then it turned off and repeated the same thing over and over. W/ the 1.2 amp adapter, it fired right up just like it had AC power or the internal batts.
Total cost in parts was ~$15. $9.95 for the adapter, and $3.95 for the adapta-plug to fit the JB3.
Pretty awesome since the JB3 replacement batts are ~$60/each now.
Oh, I am using the Wally World 9v batt if I didnt already mention it. Now to do some testing tomorrow w/ the Wally World batt fully charged to see what the record time length is.
My JB3 batt issue is no more!!!!!!
Again... Huge +T.
Jim :)
-
Well my little DIY project for the day was to build a VR like lee's. But I got to thinking about powering my jb3 with stuff I had around the house. I use to power my JB3 with an SLA>Radio Shack Car Adaptor with mulit voltage setting set on 4.5. I began thinking why wire a board when I can just hack this thing. So here is my latest solution. It runs on a Walmart Lion battery.
Parts:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F002%5F004&product%5Fid=273%2D1811
(I had the older model with a wheel like selector)
Walmart Lion battery
Power cable from Lion battery
butt connectors
wire striper
Open up the car adaptor. Cut the read and black wires attached to the cigarett plug (Cut them as close to the cigaret plug as possible). Strip off 1/2 and inch on insulation. Hack the lion cable, cut it as close the tip as possible. The tip opposite of the one that plugs into the battery. Use a butt connector to connect the red wires from the cable and the red wire from the car adaptor. Do the same with the black. Screw the car adaptor back together and you are ready to go to town. If you dont use the Lion battery form walmart you can use RC batteries, but but use a female connector. Its really easy.
I took my dremel and hollowed out the old cigaret molding, so it protects my butt connectors. Just b/c I could.
Bagtagsell,
I just finished doing the mod that you described a few pages back (page 4) and just wanted to give
you a HUGE + Friggin' T for posting this !!!!!!!
It only took about 15mins to do, and it worked like a charm.
Also, just to let everyone know, the power adapter that is in the pics on page 4, is being discontinued, so I was able to buy it on clearance for $9.95.
Also, the specs for the adapter I bought were that it was a 1.2amp adapter. I think this is probably the minimum that will work. Yesterday, I had a sony car lighter adapter just collecting dust at home, so I tried to hack that instead of buying one. It was a 4.5v w/ 1amp, but it didnt work. It scrolled through the Creative screen, then to the EAX screen, but that is as far as it went, then it turned off and repeated the same thing over and over. W/ the 1.2 amp adapter, it fired right up just like it had AC power or the internal batts.
Total cost in parts was ~$15. $9.95 for the adapter, and $3.95 for the adapta-plug to fit the JB3.
Pretty awesome since the JB3 replacement batts are ~$60/each now.
Oh, I am using the Wally World 9v batt if I didnt already mention it. Now to do some testing tomorrow w/ the Wally World batt fully charged to see what the record time length is.
My JB3 batt issue is no more!!!!!!
Again... Huge +T.
Jim :)
+T for fixing it so quickly
-
Just tryin to give back some of what I have taken. I didn't know that model was being discontinued, but I picked up the remaing stock at my local radioshack. If anyone needs one I can make them for the price of parts. Just pm me.
-
Just tryin to give back some of what I have taken. I didn't know that model was being discontinued, but I picked up the remaing stock at my local radioshack. If anyone needs one I can make them for the price of parts. Just pm me.
id prolly snatch up one if leegedy wasnt making some demo units to be tested of his VR box ;)
-
someone needs to test this puppy with the ua5->jb3 since both of you guys are running v3...
i will hum(bum)blee offer my services ;) ;D
-
hopefully il be testing it with mmp > v3 > jb3 :P
-
i'd prolly snatch up one if leegedy wasnt making some demo units to be tested of his VR box
competition sucks for everyone but the consumer (j/k).
-
Well my little DIY project for the day was to build a VR like lee's. But I got to thinking about powering my jb3 with stuff I had around the house. I use to power my JB3 with an SLA>Radio Shack Car Adaptor with mulit voltage setting set on 4.5. I began thinking why wire a board when I can just hack this thing. So here is my latest solution. It runs on a Walmart Lion battery.
Parts:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F009%5F001%5F002%5F004&product%5Fid=273%2D1811
(I had the older model with a wheel like selector)
Walmart Lion battery
Power cable from Lion battery
butt connectors
wire striper
Open up the car adaptor. Cut the read and black wires attached to the cigarett plug (Cut them as close to the cigaret plug as possible). Strip off 1/2 and inch on insulation. Hack the lion cable, cut it as close the tip as possible. The tip opposite of the one that plugs into the battery. Use a butt connector to connect the red wires from the cable and the red wire from the car adaptor. Do the same with the black. Screw the car adaptor back together and you are ready to go to town. If you dont use the Lion battery form walmart you can use RC batteries, but but use a female connector. Its really easy.
I took my dremel and hollowed out the old cigaret molding, so it protects my butt connectors. Just b/c I could.
Bagtagsell,
I just finished doing the mod that you described a few pages back (page 4) and just wanted to give
you a HUGE + Friggin' T for posting this !!!!!!!
It only took about 15mins to do, and it worked like a charm.
Also, just to let everyone know, the power adapter that is in the pics on page 4, is being discontinued, so I was able to buy it on clearance for $9.95.
Also, the specs for the adapter I bought were that it was a 1.2amp adapter. I think this is probably the minimum that will work. Yesterday, I had a sony car lighter adapter just collecting dust at home, so I tried to hack that instead of buying one. It was a 4.5v w/ 1amp, but it didnt work. It scrolled through the Creative screen, then to the EAX screen, but that is as far as it went, then it turned off and repeated the same thing over and over. W/ the 1.2 amp adapter, it fired right up just like it had AC power or the internal batts.
Total cost in parts was ~$15. $9.95 for the adapter, and $3.95 for the adapta-plug to fit the JB3.
Pretty awesome since the JB3 replacement batts are ~$60/each now.
Oh, I am using the Wally World 9v batt if I didnt already mention it. Now to do some testing tomorrow w/ the Wally World batt fully charged to see what the record time length is.
My JB3 batt issue is no more!!!!!!
Again... Huge +T.
Jim :)
I just finished testing the Wal-Mart 9v connected to my JB3 via bagtagsell's mod.
Here is the setup that I ran:
Sharp MD-MT15 (headphone out) > UA-5 (rear analog in jacks, optical out) > JB3 (optical in @ .wav 44.1 kHz)
The Wal-Mart 9v was charged straight from the package to full charge.
I made 7 recordings using this setup. I also powered the JB3 off and on 4 times during the test. IR Remote setting was "off", backlight was off and headphone volume was zero. Here are the lengths of the tracks.
Track 1: 2hrs 50mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed 3 of the 4 lights still lit on the meter after the recording was done.
Track 2: 2hrs 50mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed 3 of the 4 lights still lit on the meter after the recording was done.
Track 3: 2hrs 24mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed 2 of the 4 lights still lit on the meter after the recording was done.
Track 4: 1hr 30mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed 2 of the 4 lights still lit on the meter after the recording was done.
Track 5: 2hrs 25mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed 2 of the 4 lights still lit on the meter after the recording was done.
Track 6: 2hrs 40mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed 2 of the 4 lights still lit on the meter after the recording was done.
Track 7: 2hrs 02mins - Wal-Mart 9v showed only the RED light on the meter after the recording was done.
Total record time: 16hrs 41mins.
Not sure how much longer it would have run w/ just the red light showing on the 9v batt. I stopped the test as soon as I noticed the meter was down to just the red light.
Anyway, I had no idea it would last this long while recording. I think that is way more than I will ever need, but nice to know its there if I need it.
Hope this is helpful to everyone. Feel free to ask any questions if I wasnt clear enough. Cant wait to field test this setup.
Jim
Thanks again to everyone who has added to this topic. :)
-
So what are you powering your UA-5 with then? Another 9v? Look into one of leegeddy's junction boxes, or wire up that adapter so you can have to outputs... run both your jb3 and ua-5 off the same batt...
-
So what are you powering your UA-5 with then? Another 9v? Look into one of leegeddy's junction boxes, or wire up that adapter so you can have to outputs... run both your jb3 and ua-5 off the same batt...
I own 2 of the Wal-mart 9v batts. One runs the UA-5, the other the JB3.
-
Dang,
I can't win for trying.
I returned the adapter from best buy that only did 1000 mah
Bought a new one from wallyworld that does 2000 but it claims
12 vdc input only and they did not have any other adapters that had over 1000 mah
then that one. SO I buy it bring it home. Screwed up on the tip polarity again
and the lithium dies. Bring out the other lithium and still no juice.
At this point I can't wait to see this bumblee VR get into production phase.
I tried the ratshack adapter and the thing went POP, upon opening up it had the distinct
smell of something going poof. I must have something crossed but I don't know what.
white to white black to black is pretty simple. Mess up on the tip just reverse it, and try again. For something so simple I sure in the hell am doing a great job of bungling it.
-
Dang,
I can't win for trying.
I returned the adapter from best buy that only did 1000 mah
Bought a new one from wallyworld that does 2000 but it claims
12 vdc input only and they did not have any other adapters that had over 1000 mah
then that one. SO I buy it bring it home. Screwed up on the tip polarity again
and the lithium dies. Bring out the other lithium and still no juice.
At this point I can't wait to see this bumblee VR get into production phase.
I tried the ratshack adapter and the thing went POP, upon opening up it had the distinct
smell of something going poof. I must have something crossed but I don't know what.
white to white black to black is pretty simple. Mess up on the tip just reverse it, and try again. For something so simple I sure in the hell am doing a great job of bungling it.
get a multi meter, save yourself a lot of trouble
-
get a multi meter, save yourself a lot of trouble
qft
just being cheap for something I might use 6 mths from now again.
Trying to look around for a friend who will let me use theirs.
-
i use mine all the time surprizingly best $10-15 i have spent.
RS part # 22-218 $15.49
i think i got one very similar for $8 at harbor freight tools
-
Sunday afternoon fun
I forget which jb3 power thread I posted on before, but it seems like this one is getting the most traffic now. My idea is to hack apart an internal battery, take out the cell, attach wires to the internal leads, run them out the back of the battery casing with a plug on the end which fits a 3.6v battery.
I was waiting for inspiration until the battery I got with my jb3 died. I almost sent it back to Creative for warranty replacement. They wouldn't take back just the battery, I would have had to send my whole unit in, no telling how long that would take. With more Swing Set shows coming up I wasn't going to risk it, so I brought out the soldering gun and multimeter. ;D
It took alot of tinkering but I got a 3.6v NiMh battery to power up the device through an internal port. The battery is 4000mAh which is better than twice the capacity of the stock batteries (as far as I can tell). For $24 this battery is about 1/4 the cost per mAh as those through Creative.
I plan to test how long the battery will last and other variables such as putting in/taking out other internals from the other port with the custom one in, as well as running it till it dies to see if it will shut down gracefully and save the data it has recorded before shutting off.
The next challenge is how to recharge 3.6v. My best solution so far is to make two of these packs (each consist of three 1.2v cells) and wire them with two leads out. One 3.6v and the other 7.2v. Then I should be able to use a generic RC recharger from Radio Shack to send 7.2v in. Although, leegeddy's junction box could sure come in handy here if one of the out puts could be 3.6v.
-
someone needs to test this puppy with the ua5->jb3 since both of you guys are running v3...
i will hum(bum)blee offer my services ;) ;D
the VERY first BBP VR-JBOX has been shipped to razorback. tested it on the bench: Vin was +/-12v, V1out=5.01v, V2out=input.
have fun with it and hope it minimizes the bulk of your power supply.
marc
-
+T marc, cant wait for mine ;)
-
+T marc, cant wait for mine ;)
thanks bean.
your jbox is sitting on my desk. now get off your arse and send those rc packs :)
marc
-
+T marc, cant wait for mine ;)
thanks bean.
your jbox is sitting on my desk. now get off your arse and send those rc packs :)
marc
hehe, suite :)
i know, hopefully it shouldnt be too much longer :'(
-
succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs. 1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.
JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.
2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours. and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.
This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package.
-
the VERY first BBP VR-JBOX has been shipped to razorback. tested it on the bench: Vin was +/-12v, V1out=5.01v, V2out=input.
have fun with it and hope it minimizes the bulk of your power supply.
marc
SCHAWEET! Ill test this as soon as I get it...and post results on here...THANX a TON marc!!!
-
succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs. 1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.
JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.
2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours. and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.
This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package.
+T for the "altoids tin" idea. I was just going to run to Fry Electronics and pick up a box. Looks like I'll save a fews more bucks. thanks!
-
succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs. 1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.
JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.
2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours. and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.
This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package.
+T for the "altoids tin" idea. I was just going to run to Fry Electronics and pick up a box. Looks like I'll save a fews more bucks. thanks!
the little project boxes are nice but for prototypes i just use whatever i got laying around.
-
succesfully ran (sans busted optical cable) the JB3 w/ a hosa ODL-276 and modSBM1 off 2 7.2v RC packs. 1st night Radiators, 2nd night Radio broadcast.
JB3 @ 5v - via hacked RS voltage regulator
SBM1 @ 6v - via 1.2a homemade LDO 6v circuit
hosa @ 9v - via homemade bost circuit
all mounted into an altoids tin w/ hardwired input and outputs.
2 packs gets me in the neighborhood of 9 hours. and I can charge 2 packs in 45 minutes.
This week i plan on re-making the above to see if i can get it into a smaller package.
while running some testing i ran into an additional "feature". after about 20hrs(on [4] 7.2c 3300Mah cells) of recording the stereo my batts died and caused the SBM-1 to shutdown which left the JB3 running and was able to stop the recording w/o loosing the current track, hours after the battery drain. In most cases the JB3 freezes after it looses it external source ie. SLA > RS adapter > JB3. I imagine for you v3 > JB3 tapers could adjust the internal settings to kill the V3 at a point before the JB3 locks up, so you could at least save what you have captured and not loose everything.
fwiw I am now using surfacemount Panasonic AN77xxSP based regulator for 6v and a Linear Technology LT1086 for 5v.
AN7706SP-ND 6v
LT1086CT-5 5v
Coming next: getting all this inside the battery tray of my SVU-1. I no longer need my Hosa to be powered so i plan to use the pt5045 to give the svu-1 9v and stick the other two circuits in there.
-
OK I figured out what I was doing wrong. EUE as we all expected. (end user error)
See what I was trying to do here was...
I bought the car adapter per this thread..
What I did not want to do was hack the adapter like some have done.
I wanted to continue to use the adapter in the car whenever I wanted.
So I bought a Y female adapter that plugs into the car and will allow you to power 2 devices off it.
I also bought a Y adaptacable so I could plug in the one side to the battery and then split off
to power my devices.
I hacked the one side off the Y car adapter to use. I then soldered my wires together, white to white black to black.
Well evidently this was not the correct way of thinking. Everytime I plugged into the battery and then the jb3, I was shorting the lithium out. I could not figure out what I was doing wrong..
I kept tip to tip, color coded wires together, everything seemed to be right?
Wrong, last night I decided to rip everything apart and start fresh.
I figured out that I had wires crossed, soon as I switched wires, white to black, black to white.
The JB3 powered right up. It was beautiful.
Fozzy thanks for your insight. And thanks to everyone else for your contributions.
Thanks for letting me use this as a place to think out loud.
I will try and snap a picture to share later on.
the adaptacable y
(http://tigerrose.org/~skelafeti/images/TS/adaptable.JPG)
and it all working 8)
(http://tigerrose.org/~skelafeti/images/TS/Power.JPG)
-
+T jackorose
-
Very nice Jackarose, what was the total cost then?
-
Very nice Jackarose, what was the total cost then?
I don't quite recall..
The y car adapter was 10$
the y adaptacable was under 10$ (around $6 iirc)
the car adapter itself was under 20 (15$ I think).
Adaptaplugs were $5 each (x3) =$15 :(
total not more then $55
The car adapter is nice because the box lets you stash more adaptaplugs in it.
Or whatever you need to stick in there ;)
Or it can be bulky depending on how you want to look at it.
About the price of a new battery for the JB3, yet now I can run a lot longer
then 2 jb3 batteries.
-
Cool thanks.
-
In an effort to keep this thread as long as "jb3 external power I" ;D I figured I'd share a few pics of my 5v regulator that I just finished tonight! This was the first circuit I've ever put together I think. Anyway, here are a few shots. Now whether or not I'd actually use this in the field, who knows, but it was fun just working on it. And thanks again to Fozzy for that Altoids tin idea!
(http://jdaly.homelinux.org:2112/music/jb3/jb3_5v_reg1.gif)(http://jdaly.homelinux.org:2112/music/jb3/jb3_5v_reg2.gif)
(http://jdaly.homelinux.org:2112/music/jb3/jb3_5v_reg3.gif)
-
very nice +t What are the specifics?
-
I was afraid someone would ask me that ::)
Seriously though, I used a LM317 VR (radio shack: 276-1778) which puts out ~5.2 volts. The intent was to only power the JB3. Just found out this also powers my D8 as well.
Resistor values used: R1:150 R2:470
Also have a 1k resistor in there that goes out to the LED.
And there's also a switch as you can see, same side as the LED.
There are 4 screws mounted from the bottom to hold the circuit board in place.
Oh yeah, the LM317 is also mounted onto a heatsink.
Total cost ~10 maybe?
That's about all I know...
-
2nd Bumblebee VR-JBOX is heading out the door to JKelly. he opted for the 5v/6v outputs. i snapped some shots here:
Dual output box with xlr covers in place:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/leegeddy/vr-jbox/vr-jbox1.jpg)
Dual voltage outputs via 4pin XLRF:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/leegeddy/vr-jbox/vr-jbox2.jpg)
Single voltage input via 4pin XLRM:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/leegeddy/vr-jbox/vr-jbox3.jpg)
Walmart LiION input, 2 outputs connected:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/leegeddy/vr-jbox/vr-jbox4.jpg)
Closer shot:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/leegeddy/vr-jbox/vr-jbox5.jpg)
vr circuits are based on the LM317 chips with internal heatsinks. rated current for each circuit is +/-1.5amps.
marc
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I still don't quite understand what the concept is behind using
the XLR's? is it to keep the plugs locked in?
but why worry about that, with the wal-mart lion it is just a adataplug..
Those plugs don't just come loose anyway without some sort of help.
I can understand sort of if people would use this with the SLA's but
most here are moving to lithium I think. Just trying to grasp the idea.
Seems like XLR power connectors should go the way of the SLA's
but maybe I am missing something?
Nice looking box still and I am still interested in playing with it too.
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What that box looks amazing... so professional! Nice job!
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I still don't quite understand what the concept is behind using
the XLR's? is it to keep the plugs locked in?
but why worry about that, with the wal-mart lion it is just a adataplug..
Those plugs don't just come loose anyway without some sort of help.
If I could, I'd have locking adapters on all my connections. Wait a minute...I do!
XLR's provide an easy way of locking the power connections. IME, those darn adaptaplugs are easily bumped out of position / disconnected accidentally. The XLR on the input side may also ensure compatibility with SLA systems if people want to use big-ass SLAs at festivals. Marc?
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What that box looks amazing... so professional! Nice job!
Yes, indeed, Great looking box! +T But it is as "minty fresh" as my Altoids contraption? ;D
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You still have a non locking adaptaplug on the external lithium battery though..
And IME I have not had any problems using a M adaptaplug on my V3.
Plus you have a non locking plug on the device you are trying to power (NJB3)
Not to say I am not waiting for Marc to get more connectors in so I can order my RA V3
cord. Why not just use the same concept as the V3 though for locking connectors?
I still feel SLA's are flintstone era now with the external lithiums in abundance.
4 lithium packs should power a NJB3 and V3 for a weekend. Off of ebay those 4 packs
would cost a little more then one SLA no?
Thanks for helping me to understand.
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i have converted everything i have to these. Dean's ultraplug. very sturdy and made for rc racing so they won't come unplugged unless you want em to.
I do also have some 4pin to dean's patch cords incase i have to borrow some power but have yet to use them. much more low profile than the xlr's but definately just as rugged.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/fozzy-/wsdm3001.jpg)
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Fozzy I like those.
Definately better then a adaptaplug and very low profile compared to the XLR.
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Any idea of the efficiency of this? Voltage regulators are meant to be mounted to a heat sink, right? For a music festival, say 20 hours of taping, it might take a big 12V battery to go this route. If you could measure the efficiency it would be helpful.
got some voltage output data for the regulator circuit i'm working on.
input: 24v (actual 21.91v)
output: 5.20v
input: 12v (actual 11.17v)
output: 5.20v
input: 9.6v (actual 9.3v)
output: 5.21v
input: 7.2v (actual 7.15v)
output: 5.20
input: 6v (actual 5.34)
output: 3.97v
the circuit is very compact and basically can be placed inline in a small hobby box with xlr panel mounts, if necessary.
the regulator IC can handle 1.5A of current so that should be more than ample.
now, who wants to send me their jb3 for testing? ;D
marc
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Dude that box rocks, I don't know what the fuck is going on, but it rocks.
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You still have a non locking adaptaplug on the external lithium battery though..
And IME I have not had any problems using a M adaptaplug on my V3.
Plus you have a non locking plug on the device you are trying to power (NJB3)
Not to say I am not waiting for Marc to get more connectors in so I can order my RA V3
cord. Why not just use the same concept as the V3 though for locking connectors?
I still feel SLA's are flintstone era now with the external lithiums in abundance.
4 lithium packs should power a NJB3 and V3 for a weekend. Off of ebay those 4 packs
would cost a little more then one SLA no?
Thanks for helping me to understand.
the xlr connection and sla are not mutually exclusive. one has nothing to do with the other. the 4pin xlrs simply provide a very ROBUST connection and is foolproof. you can NOT get the polarity mixed up and the connections are no=brainers.
Any idea of the efficiency of this? Voltage regulators are meant to be mounted to a heat sink, right? For a music festival, say 20 hours of taping, it might take a big 12V battery to go this route. If you could measure the efficiency it would be helpful.
i'm hoping that the guys who run the prototypes can give us some feedback.
marc
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Marc, check your PMs.
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the xlr connection and sla are not mutually exclusive. one has nothing to do with the other. the 4pin xlrs simply provide a very ROBUST connection and is foolproof. you can NOT get the polarity mixed up and the connections are no=brainers.
Good point, you would have to be a blooming idiot to plug a xlr in wrong.
I can see this proving valuable in the middle of a festival saturday night changing battery packs between sets all swilled up. Thanks for helping me to see the light ;D
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In an effort to keep this thread as long as "jb3 external power I" ;D I figured I'd share a few pics of my 5v regulator that I just finished tonight! This was the first circuit I've ever put together I think. Anyway, here are a few shots. Now whether or not I'd actually use this in the field, who knows, but it was fun just working on it. And thanks again to Fozzy for that Altoids tin idea!
curiously cool... +T for a minty fresh box!
Matt
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damn....that's a great looking box
very nice Marc 8)
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I just did what John2525az built. Same exact box in an altoids can.
Pros-
small
cheap!!!
works like a charm
cons-
harder than hacking car charger
average soldering skills needed
might be some heat issues, haven't run it for more than a few mins.
Right now I am a big fan of this one. way to go guys!!!
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Hey leegeddy, I've got a question about your Bumblebee VR-JBOX. Can the circut regulate down somewhere between 3.2v and 4.1v? I've converted and internal jb3 battery to accept external power. I made a 3v battery and it works great, the problem is recharging it. As I have a ua-5 on the way a vr-box seems more useful than trying to make a single "altoids tin" circut to regulate the battery.
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Hey leegeddy, I've got a question about your Bumblebee VR-JBOX. Can the circut regulate down somewhere between 3.2v and 4.1v? I've converted and internal jb3 battery to accept external power. I made a 3v battery and it works great, the problem is recharging it. As I have a ua-5 on the way a vr-box seems more useful than trying to make a single "altoids tin" circut to regulate the battery.
yes. the output voltage can be tailored to 3-4v.
marc
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Like everyone else here I'm trying to power both a UA5 and a NJB3.
Attempt #1: 12V SLA battery plus two car adapters (active regulators) one to 9V and the other to 5V. Problem: whenever the NJB3 did a seek there was a lot of noise/buzzing in the UA5.
Attempt #2: Two walmart-type 9V Li Ion batteries. One feeds the UA5 directly, and the other feeds the NJB3 through a 5V 7805 passive regulator. Problem: It seems these batteries cut out under high load. If I leave the battery in the NJB3, the current is very high (it charges as well as records) and the battery cuts out quickly. If I remove the NJB battery it runs for longer, but it still cuts out randomly. Question: is this normal, or is there something wrong with my battery? It seems to cut out if I try to draw more than, say 1.5A out of it. The battery returns to normal if I disconnect and reconnect it.
I've got two plans going forward. One is to use NIMH, either directly into NJB battery holder (three cells) or get a 7.2V NIMH pack (six cells), put it through the 7805 and then into the 5V port. The second plan is to use SLA for the NJB, but I'd hate to carry all that weight.
Thanks for the inspiration guys. Even if things aren't working, I'm having a blast with all this stuff!
Richard
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Dumb question of the week...
What da heck does SLA stand for?
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Dumb question of the week...
What da heck does SLA stand for?
Not a dumb question. We all have geek terminology. Sealed lead acid battery. (I think...)
Richard
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I can use one of these and one of the Creative car adapters, correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=73335&item=5751577596&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
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Dumb question of the week...
What da heck does SLA stand for?
Not a dumb question. We all have geek terminology. Sealed lead acid battery. (I think...)
Richard
well... actually that would be SLAB! sealed lead acid
I can use one of these and one of the Creative car adapters, correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=73335&item=5751577596&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
yes, but you can use any car adaptor that does 4.5-5v and any battery that is 7v or higher. Ni-MH (nickle metal hydride) RC batts, sla's, and lithium rechargeables all work great
Matt
**edit** sorry... I just followed that link. that battery is a NiCad (Nickle Cadmium) (sp?) and thoes will form a memory... that means that you have to discharge it and charge it all the way up each time. Ni-MH, and Lithium are the best in this regard. SLA is like your car battery, and should never be fully discharged. SLA is heaviest, lithium is lightest... take your pick. I personally like Mi-MH becuause they are easy to maintain, reasonably light, and very cheap. Try here http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=474
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I can use one of these and one of the Creative car adapters, correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=73335&item=5751577596&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
I actually have a couple similar items I bought back in July at woot.com You can see some information about them, as well as comments in the thread below.
http://forum.woot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22 and here: http://www.synmicro.com/itemDetail.asp?z=AC20720C
Basically, the unit outputs 12v, and inside contains 27 alkaline AA batteries. I've used them camping a few times to power small lights, but I'm considering using one for my JB3 that's in the mail. Has anyone used them before, or have any comments on why I shouldn't use it? My main concern (other than will it work at all) is how long of a recording time should I expect with this unit. Thanks in advance.
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I can use one of these and one of the Creative car adapters, correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=73335&item=5751577596&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
I actually have a couple similar items I bought back in July at woot.com You can see some information about them, as well as comments in the thread below.
http://forum.woot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22 and here: http://www.synmicro.com/itemDetail.asp?z=AC20720C
Basically, the unit outputs 12v, and inside contains 27 alkaline AA batteries. I've used them camping a few times to power small lights, but I'm considering using one for my JB3 that's in the mail. Has anyone used them before, or have any comments on why I shouldn't use it? My main concern (other than will it work at all) is how long of a recording time should I expect with this unit. Thanks in advance.
The important info is the mAH. for 12v you would need 8 AA bats @ 1.5v or 10 @ 1.2v for rechargables. The math doesn't work for 27 AA batts.
You could probably do much better w/ the Wal-mart Li-Ion or even a SLA
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jimmc, thanks for running that time test. good to know there is an "all (festival)day" power source. just what i've been waiting to hear. +T
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I can use one of these and one of the Creative car adapters, correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=73335&item=5751577596&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
I actually have a couple similar items I bought back in July at woot.com You can see some information about them, as well as comments in the thread below.
http://forum.woot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22 and here: http://www.synmicro.com/itemDetail.asp?z=AC20720C
Basically, the unit outputs 12v, and inside contains 27 alkaline AA batteries. I've used them camping a few times to power small lights, but I'm considering using one for my JB3 that's in the mail. Has anyone used them before, or have any comments on why I shouldn't use it? My main concern (other than will it work at all) is how long of a recording time should I expect with this unit. Thanks in advance.
The important info is the mAH. for 12v you would need 8 AA bats @ 1.5v or 10 @ 1.2v for rechargables. The math doesn't work for 27 AA batts.
You could probably do much better w/ the Wal-mart Li-Ion or even a SLA
yeah, that is true and keep this in mind also: battery size and weight is determined by two things... voltage and amperage (and the type of battery also). Add more of either and the weight goes up. The usable charge of the battery is only determined by the amperage after you reach the minimum for the converter to work... everything else just gets burned off. So unless you have a reason to go 12 volt, you are just making your bag heavier, and battey power is wasted in generating voltage that will just get burned off in the convertor anyways. If you are going to use that many batteries, you may as well use them right. When you connect a battery group of same voltage batteries in series (daisy chain pos to neg to pos to neg etc) you increase the voltage, and when you connect in paralel (pos to pos to pos and neg to neg to neg etc) you increase the amperage. It may be too early for me to try to make sense here, but that is how it works. Don't knock yourself out trying to get to 12 volts just because the car adaptor is "meant" for that. Besides what a pain in the ass it would be to charge that many AA batts... with the RC batts, or the Lion you just plug in once and walk away.
Matt
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So one quick question. What input voltage does the UA-5 like. I'm going to buil a box like Mark did and would like to make it run everything I have. If I can run the JB3, D8 & Dmic20 off the 5.2 V circuit then I'd only need a second for the UA-5 so what should it's output be?
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So one quick question. What input voltage does the UA-5 like. I'm going to buil a box like Mark did and would like to make it run everything I have. If I can run the JB3, D8 & Dmic20 off the 5.2 V circuit then I'd only need a second for the UA-5 so what should it's output be?
I'd worry about the load on your 5v. dunno what the draw of the dmic and d8 are but the jb3 can spike up to 1amp. I run a dedicated 1.5A circuit for my JB3.
UA5 is reliable from 7.2-12v.
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What input voltage does the UA-5 like.
Check the UA5 FAQ in the Archival Info forum.
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That answers my question. I'm not going to run them all at once on a single circuit, just be able to run my JB3, D8 or DMIC-20 off the same power supply with different output cords. Make sense? Maybe build 3 or 4 circuits in to a single box, but then I'd worry about heat. I'm trying to get together a good festival rig for this summer.
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I'm thinking of getting some custom made PCB boards made that would support this circuit. One place I checked out would make a board that is about 3.5 x 2 and would be able to support up to 3 of the LM317 based circuits so you could have 3 outputs each with a different voltage off a single input and be able to change the output voltage just by swapping out 2 resistors. My only real concern in heat. While there would be room for heat sinks in the box, there would not be any airflow. Just how hot do these things get? Obviously as the quantity goes up the price goes down so I'm also curious how many people would be intreseted in buying a PCB board if I had them made. I've attached a quick CAD drawing of the circuit I'm looking at. Any comments?
FYI it is a 2 layer board the green is on the bottom layer the red is on the top layer and where the components go through the board it makes the electrical connections
(http://www.liverecording.org/gallery/albums/album03/pcbcad.jpg)
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To figure the heat you'll need to sink, calculate the efficiency of the LM317 at the voltage and amperage you want to run at. I suspect you'll need a decent heat sink on each one, and air free to move thru your enclosure.
Basically these things take the extra voltage and dump it to heat. So if you're running 10 volts into it and getting .5A at 5V out you have to dump the other 5V to heat. So that's 2.5 watts. The closer you supply to the output the less waste.
They can get very hot. A good rule of thumb (literally) is that if you can hold your finger on it, it's ok. If you yank it away in pain, it's too hot and you are overloading the chip, and it will die soon.
My question is, what happens when the battery dies? Do you lose the show you're recording on your JB3? Does it lock up if all of a sudden you start feeding less than 5V into the DC-in connector? The JB3 is not very robust when it comes to its DC-in ! So it's important to use a big battery for the power supply and hopefully monitor its voltage so the JB3 doesn't crash in the middle of a show.
I'm thinking of getting some custom made PCB boards made that would support this circuit. One place I checked out would make a board that is about 3.5 x 2 and would be able to support up to 3 of the LM317 based circuits so you could have 3 outputs each with a different voltage off a single input and be able to change the output voltage just by swapping out 2 resistors. My only real concern in heat. While there would be room for heat sinks in the box, there would not be any airflow. Just how hot do these things get? Obviously as the quantity goes up the price goes down so I'm also curious how many people would be intreseted in buying a PCB board if I had them made. I've attached a quick CAD drawing of the circuit I'm looking at. Any comments?
FYI it is a 2 layer board the green is on the bottom layer the red is on the top layer and where the components go through the board it makes the electrical connections
(http://www.liverecording.org/gallery/albums/album03/pcbcad.jpg)
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I've got everything coming to do a mock up and will be testing without any air flow initally, just heat sinks. If all goes well, then I will explore getting the PCBs made up. I'll let everyone know how it goes. I know a few people have made boxes based on the same circuit, but have not heard anything related to thermal issues, especially with multiple circuits. The LM317 stuff I have seen indicates the chip does have overheat protection so it would shutdown before damaging the chip, but you would loose power suddeny if the overheat protection kicks in. Anyone know how to make a circuit that would indicate input voltage through some LEDs? We could build that in so you can monitor input voltage level and know when you are getting low. I wouldn't think it would be too hard, but I'm not a electronics wiz.
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How about a panel volt meter?
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=8718+ME
No affiliation, just a customer,
I've got everything coming to do a mock up and will be testing without any air flow initally, just heat sinks. If all goes well, then I will explore getting the PCBs made up. I'll let everyone know how it goes. I know a few people have made boxes based on the same circuit, but have not heard anything related to thermal issues, especially with multiple circuits. The LM317 stuff I have seen indicates the chip does have overheat protection so it would shutdown before damaging the chip, but you would loose power suddeny if the overheat protection kicks in. Anyone know how to make a circuit that would indicate input voltage through some LEDs? We could build that in so you can monitor input voltage level and know when you are getting low. I wouldn't think it would be too hard, but I'm not a electronics wiz.
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I went to radio shack yesterday and they didn't have any heatsinks (apparently they're being discontinued) What did y'all use for heatsinks on the LM317T, and did any folks add a fan to make sure it stays cool? Thanks!
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I think I got mine from this old scanner I took apart. Trust me, it's nothing fancy and looks nothing like a heatsink you may have seen at RS, inside a PC, or elsewhere. If you have some scrap metal/alluminum, cut a peice off of that, drill a hole in it and screw it to the 317. Also, check RS online. I'm sure they have some out there.
I went to radio shack yesterday and they didn't have any heatsinks (apparently they're being discontinued) What did y'all use for heatsinks on the LM317T, and did any folks add a fan to make sure it stays cool? Thanks!
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Tested external power for the JB3 and UA5 last night, running off of one of the batteryspace 9.6v 3300maH RC batteries and got a bit over five hours.... I've got two of the 3300 and two of the 3000, so I'm guessing about 18 hours from the 4 reliably.
Does anyone know if there is an advantage to running one at a time and switching them out over time, or can you just hook two up and reliably expect to get double the time? I'm going to try to test that this evening.....
Also, I had the test set up in my living room, recording a playing CD at first, and then TV, with the gain on the UA5 cranked up pretty good, (~ 90%). Do you think this is a pretty accurate test, or would they drain faster when you have the higher SPL coming from a loud PA in a live situation?
Trying to get all of this figured out before heading up to Suwanee next weekend. I'm also planning on borrowing a 12v 7.2Ah SLA from work to bring along. Between the two, I'm figuring that I won't have to recharge over the two days.
Thanks for any all insights
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The main thing it to make sure it's writing to the drive (recording), not just in playback mode. Which it sounds like your already doing. That should be all you need to do for your test.
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I'm thinking of getting some custom made PCB boards made that would support this circuit. One place I checked out would make a board that is about 3.5 x 2 and would be able to support up to 3 of the LM317 based circuits so you could have 3 outputs each with a different voltage off a single input and be able to change the output voltage just by swapping out 2 resistors. My only real concern in heat. While there would be room for heat sinks in the box, there would not be any airflow. Just how hot do these things get? Obviously as the quantity goes up the price goes down so I'm also curious how many people would be intreseted in buying a PCB board if I had them made. I've attached a quick CAD drawing of the circuit I'm looking at. Any comments?
FYI it is a 2 layer board the green is on the bottom layer the red is on the top layer and where the components go through the board it makes the electrical connections
(http://www.liverecording.org/gallery/albums/album03/pcbcad.jpg)
Very cool board !
I ended up just taking a 7805, soldered +12VDC, ground, and +5VDC out to the 3 pins and ran it to the JB3 to feed it 5VDC. Mounted the chip to a piece of scrap aluminum. The only heat I felt was when it was charging the internal battery from the SLA battery.
Running this, or a RadioShack car adapter (4.5V), or a Walmart car adapter (4.5V) or even the stock AC power supply results in beeps and clicks while recording line-in, 44.1 wav, and +12dB gain. I'm pretty sure it's the internal circuit charging the battery. The AC power supply from Creative also adds a 60 hz hum.
To avoid the noise I just pull the battery and run off the external 5V alone. There is still some very low hard drive noise but it's unavoidable unless I go to external A/D and feed it digital.
My electronics geek friend tells me the 7805 chip supplies very low noise power, like battery level. No need for caps to smooth it.
What do others do about JB3 festival power? I need about 20 hours worth. I think it's finally all set.
Todd in Buffalo
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just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
-
just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
Excellent, what's the 9V for?
Anyone actually measure the mA of the 5V going into the JB3 while recording?
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9v is for my Hosa box incase anyone needs an optical patch or i want to run my second JB3 as a backup. This was also the solution prior to the DIY 7-pin optical cable. I have also used the Hosa for patching of another Rig
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Hey leegeddy, I've got a question about your Bumblebee VR-JBOX. Can the circut regulate down somewhere between 3.2v and 4.1v? I've converted and internal jb3 battery to accept external power. I made a 3v battery and it works great, the problem is recharging it. As I have a ua-5 on the way a vr-box seems more useful than trying to make a single "altoids tin" circut to regulate the battery.
How's this working out? I considered something similar, was going to hack the 3.6V Li-ion battery and add a big external pack of batteries so that the internal battery circuitry was still in the loop. Those 4 connectors actually do go somewhere, it's not just + and -.
What happens when you feed it 3.6 V battery power to those 2 terminals? Does the battery gauge on the display still work properly? Does the JB3 shut down safely when the battery finally does die?
I ended up just feeding the 5V input on the JB3 with a 7805 chip from RadioShack because I use 12V for my preamp anyway. It was like $1, soldered wires to the 3 pins on the chip, screwed it to a hunk of aluminum and it works fine. Just pull the battery out and plug in the external power and it works as normal.
-
just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
[keanu]whoa[/keanu]
almost 13AH capacity!! :o
marc
-
just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
[keanu]whoa[/keanu]
almost 13AH capacity!! :o
marc
thats nothing marc, i will have at least 6x 3300mah NIMH batts for the festies this summer ;Dso thats about 25mah battery power, plus the 6v's i'll have strictly for my v3 :)
-
just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
[keanu]whoa[/keanu]
almost 13AH capacity!! :o
marc
weighs less than my 7.5ah SLA too. My next battery solution should be 22ah @ 14.8v or 44ah @ 7.4v and about 2/3 the width of a 722 w/ about the same height and depth. The coolest thing about batteries from the RC/EV market is that they charge at an incredible rate. the nimh's i have now i can do 2 packs at a time @ 2.5amps. the next-gen will be able to handle 1C or ~22amp charge rate.
-
just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
[keanu]whoa[/keanu]
almost 13AH capacity!! :o
marc
thats nothing marc, i will have at least 6x 3300mah NIMH batts for the festies this summer ;Dso thats about 25mah battery power, plus the 6v's i'll have strictly for my v3 :)
why not ditch the 6v entirely. The V3 has such a flexible operating range.
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I have a ? about splitting the 5v feed from a Walmart adapter box.
Could one simply Snip the End of the cable that has the adapter plug end on it and wire in another plug to make it feed (2) 5v feeds at the same time . (Simply a "Y" connector if ya will)
Would sniping this cause it to drop the amperage or the voltage , or Both.
TIA
Nick
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just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
[keanu]whoa[/keanu]
almost 13AH capacity!! :o
marc
thats nothing marc, i will have at least 6x 3300mah NIMH batts for the festies this summer ;Dso thats about 25mah battery power, plus the 6v's i'll have strictly for my v3 :)
why not ditch the 6v entirely. The V3 has such a flexible operating range.
just ran 4 days @ OSMF w/o recharging. Taped
Coopers Uncle
New Monsoon
Railroad Earth
Austin Loung Lizards
Bela Fleck Trio
Sarah Jaroz
two high string band
plus 4gigs (dunno time duration on 16/44.1) of campsite jam sessions
Gear was left powered on w/o recoding during setbreaks.
4x 3200 Mah 7.2v nimh > custom LDO/boost regulator box(9v, 6v & 5v) > JB3 & modSBM1. 9v was not used but is always on.
[keanu]whoa[/keanu]
almost 13AH capacity!! :o
marc
thats nothing marc, i will have at least 6x 3300mah NIMH batts for the festies this summer ;Dso thats about 25mah battery power, plus the 6v's i'll have strictly for my v3 :)
why not ditch the 6v entirely. The V3 has such a flexible operating range.
to be quite honest i prolly will, they power thev3 for soo long tho, each 6v 7.2amp ecocharge i have goes for about 9 solid hours w/ the v3(phantom on/a-dcon/coax and optical outs) and also it helps mybag sit upright :)
-
I have a ? about splitting the 5v feed from a Walmart adapter box.
Could one simply Snip the End of the cable that has the adapter plug end on it and wire in another plug to make it feed (2) 5v feeds at the same time . (Simply a "Y" connector if ya will)
Would sniping this cause it to drop the amperage or the voltage , or Both.
TIA
Nick
It would not effect the voltage but you will be drawing twice the amount of amperage. Depending on the rating of the voltage regulator it may work. I know when i had a RS car charger the OVER light would come on when writing to the HD and charging the internals. This will also generate more heat but not necessarily too much.
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hey everyone,
i have a couple of things going on and im looking for some input on, i have read most of this thread as its been developing, but i must have missed something..
ok, im using a rat-shack hacked car adapter to power my jb3. the power is coming from a walmart battery. ive had it freeze up on me a couple of times. (if anyone wants to see a picture of the adapter im using, let me know, its not a problem at all, its a little bit different than the ones that ive seen in this thread, and it was super easy to make)
i gather that you are not supposed to plug this thing in until you are actually recording, due to the jb3 drawing no more than 1 amp during the actually recording process.
the first time it froze up, i took the jb3 battery (i only have one) out of the recorder during the recording, it lasted about 17 minutes before it froze.)
the next time it froze up, i was using a battery that was not charged all the way, so when i plugged in the external power, it started charging the battery, it froze up after about 45 minutes that time.
the next time i used the external setup, i had a fully charged jb3 battery in my jb3 and the external power worked fine. (it ran for over three hours straight!
so, as of now my conclusion is that in order for this setup to work, i need to plug in the external power right after it prepares the recording, and there must be a fully charged jb3 battery in the recorder. is this correct? am i missing something?
im running a test right now and im at 50 minutes and still recording :). (with a fully charged jb3 battery in it)
i thought i read somewhere about a way to boost the the walmart batt from one amp to two amps, can anyone shed some light on this for me? is this really necessary?
thanks in advance!
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you have to let the jb3 'take its time' when powering up/down. thats mainly been the cause of my freeze ups, just make sure you have a paperclip handy to reset the jb3 if it freezes up on ya!
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you have to let the jb3 'take its time' when powering up/down. thats mainly been the cause of my freeze ups, just make sure you have a paperclip handy to reset the jb3 if it freezes up on ya!
it worked again tonight, i gave it around 25 seconds till i plugged it in, and had no problems! +t bean, does the same thing happen with the vr box?
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so far, the jb3 w/ the VR Box has been smoooth as silk, no freeze ups as of yet :)
its like any computer tho, dont try and rush it or it will freeze up :'( ;)
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so far, the jb3 w/ the VR Box has been smoooth as silk, no freeze ups as of yet :)
its like any computer tho, dont try and rush it or it will freeze up :'( ;)
gotcha, do you think that the battery not being fully charged had anything to do with it? (does it pull more amps when its charging?)
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so far, the jb3 w/ the VR Box has been smoooth as silk, no freeze ups as of yet :)
its like any computer tho, dont try and rush it or it will freeze up :'( ;)
gotcha, do you think that the battery not being fully charged had anything to do with it? (does it pull more amps when its charging?)
the jb3 definately pulls more amps when charging, i would say around double.
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so far, the jb3 w/ the VR Box has been smoooth as silk, no freeze ups as of yet :)
its like any computer tho, dont try and rush it or it will freeze up :'( ;)
gotcha, do you think that the battery not being fully charged had anything to do with it? (does it pull more amps when its charging?)
the jb3 definately pulls more amps when charging, i would say around double.
but i doubt a half full battery may make that happen, but i have no clue.
maybe try and re-create the event at home
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he did state he was running a Rat shack adaptor and not the Sima or Initial (wally world version)
it may not be able to keep up with having to charge the battery at the same time.
do we know what "MA" it puts out?
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Hey leegeddy, I've got a question about your Bumblebee VR-JBOX. Can the circut regulate down somewhere between 3.2v and 4.1v? I've converted and internal jb3 battery to accept external power. I made a 3v battery and it works great, the problem is recharging it. As I have a ua-5 on the way a vr-box seems more useful than trying to make a single "altoids tin" circut to regulate the battery.
How's this working out? I considered something similar, was going to hack the 3.6V Li-ion battery and add a big external pack of batteries so that the internal battery circuitry was still in the loop. Those 4 connectors actually do go somewhere, it's not just + and -.
What happens when you feed it 3.6 V battery power to those 2 terminals? Does the battery gauge on the display still work properly? Does the JB3 shut down safely when the battery finally does die?
I ended up just feeding the 5V input on the JB3 with a 7805 chip from RadioShack because I use 12V for my preamp anyway. It was like $1, soldered wires to the 3 pins on the chip, screwed it to a hunk of aluminum and it works fine. Just pull the battery out and plug in the external power and it works as normal.
The modified JB3 battery plug is working great. I've done two so far. The first was with a dead battery (nothing to loose) and the second was a good battery (it took two tries to get it right). The white battery cases are now filled with silicon with wires coming out the back. I re-wired the good Li-ion cell to connect to the "plug". The JB3 seems not to notice the change. The battery meter works. I ran several tests recording until the battery died. The JB3 always shutdown and saved data...until the other night. The first bump I've run into was at the Cosmic American Ensemble where I lost the second set. I hadn't run anything in awhile and I am not positive what casused the problem.
With the battery case open I poked around with a volt meter until I determined what I thought was going on. I'm wishing I had written the steps down now, I think there is one port that is positive and 2-3 that complete the circut. There are only two leads inside the case, one going to each end of the li-ion cell. I marked where they were, cut the leads and re-connected them to wires going out the back of the case ening in the female side of a plug. I put the male side on a 3.6v ni-mh pack I had made. When I put it together, nothing happened. (this was the first attempt) Then I opened up the second battery to make sure I had the positive and negative correct. I thought maybe the bad battery mislead me. But no, checking the good battery lead me to the same conclusions about the positive and negative leads. So, then I crossed the wires, positve case - negative ni-mh, negative case - positive ni-mh. It worked, I have no idea why.
The charge coming off a fully charged li-ion battery is ~4.2v as well as the ni-mh pack. I think this would be a good voltage to send in via a VR Jbox or simular circut. One other thing is that the plug must be attached to a power source before it is inserted into the JB3. My guess is that when the plug ,minus power, is read like a dead battery and the unit locks up even if power is connected. A plus for this mod is the solid connection. The wires could be connected with locking RC type connectors, XLR, what ever.
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+t sethro, very nice. i would consider doing something similar if i was going to have the jb3 much longer. lookout for a similar 722 mod.
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Yeah that IS sweet. I've also considered this but never got past consideration.
I was thinking it would be cool to just put an extra jack on the JB3 that ties into where the batteries connect internally. That way I'd have the origianl power jack to charge the internal batteries or the new one to connect an external battery. Not sure if I'll ever get around to that one, and your idea may be better because it can just be added to any JB3 without modifying it.
+T for the cool innovation!
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thanks for the help fellas, i think that my problem is solved :), and it didnt even cost me more money ;D. +ts
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Ok, that makes good sense, you didn't eliminate that little circuit board in there. All four contacts with the JB3 are still intact, you simply changed to a different 3.6v NiMH battery. I like that a lot.
Don't sweat the lost Cosmic American Ensemble set, it wasn't the battery's fault. I was running a stock JB3 battery Friday night and it died without saving the recording about 1 minute before the end of the show! D'oh! And I watched it happening! I wanted to see what would happen, just assumed it would save and then shut down, but it didn't.
So I can understand what would happen if you put in a battery of approximately the same capacity. What about a battery of much greater capacity? Would the JB3 still be able to charge it you think? Or would it draw so much amperage that the circuit would fry? I wonder.... I bet it would be fine because it's probably current limited charging, so it would just take a lot longer to charge it.
Or maybe don't even bother charging with a JB3, use a stand alone battery charger instead.
Very cool, nice work.
Todd in Buffalo
The modified JB3 battery plug is working great. I've done two so far. The first was with a dead battery (nothing to loose) and the second was a good battery (it took two tries to get it right). The white battery cases are now filled with silicon with wires coming out the back. I re-wired the good Li-ion cell to connect to the "plug". The JB3 seems not to notice the change. The battery meter works. I ran several tests recording until the battery died. The JB3 always shutdown and saved data...until the other night. The first bump I've run into was at the Cosmic American Ensemble where I lost the second set. I hadn't run anything in awhile and I am not positive what casused the problem.
With the battery case open I poked around with a volt meter until I determined what I thought was going on. I'm wishing I had written the steps down now, I think there is one port that is positive and 2-3 that complete the circut. There are only two leads inside the case, one going to each end of the li-ion cell. I marked where they were, cut the leads and re-connected them to wires going out the back of the case ening in the female side of a plug. I put the male side on a 3.6v ni-mh pack I had made. When I put it together, nothing happened. (this was the first attempt) Then I opened up the second battery to make sure I had the positive and negative correct. I thought maybe the bad battery mislead me. But no, checking the good battery lead me to the same conclusions about the positive and negative leads. So, then I crossed the wires, positve case - negative ni-mh, negative case - positive ni-mh. It worked, I have no idea why.
The charge coming off a fully charged li-ion battery is ~4.2v as well as the ni-mh pack. I think this would be a good voltage to send in via a VR Jbox or simular circut. One other thing is that the plug must be attached to a power source before it is inserted into the JB3. My guess is that when the plug ,minus power, is read like a dead battery and the unit locks up even if power is connected. A plus for this mod is the solid connection. The wires could be connected with locking RC type connectors, XLR, what ever.
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I'm trying to power the JB3 with a 9V battery. There's a lot of talk here about car adapters that will do the trick, but the ones I had on hand (from Radio Shack) would work only with 12V input. Reading this thread, I get the idea that there are adapters that will work with 9V - but I can't figure out what models they would be. I'd love to find something I could pick up off the shelf at Radio Shack or Wal-Mart tomorrow.
Doug
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I'm trying to power the JB3 with a 9V battery. There's a lot of talk here about car adapters that will do the trick, but the ones I had on hand (from Radio Shack) would work only with 12V input. Reading this thread, I get the idea that there are adapters that will work with 9V - but I can't figure out what models they would be. I'd love to find something I could pick up off the shelf at Radio Shack or Wal-Mart tomorrow.
Hey Doug - we met at Kent Stage a while ago . Great to see you over here! Check out this thread (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=38106.0;all). Dunno if you can find one locally, but worth checking around, probably.
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Hey Doug ,
welcome to the madness. ;)
Here is one of the "walmart specials" this one has been proven to work with the Jb3 running both 12volt SLA and 9 volt Lithium batterys. (it is branded as a powerline , Model # 0900-21)
main thing to look for if your not able to find the Powerline or Sima adapters is that it provides at least 1.5 amp's.
You may be able to find this one at your local walmart . If not heres a link to one on ebay going for a little of nothing.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5790746049&category=60208&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1
let me know if ya have any other ?'s
Nick
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Hey guys thanks, nice to hear from you Brian...
I was hitting the road a lot recently, never did solve the JB3 power issue - in fact, this last weekend I had the JB3 twice shut down on me during a recording, running off only the internal battery. Maybe it got too warm. Maybe the second time the battery ran down... but after only 2-3 hours? Actually it seems to me like I only ever get a couple hours from the internal battery, though Creative says it lasts 11.
Anyway, back to the subject at hand... Even if I find an adapter that converts 12vdc to 5vdc (which I can do), the question is whether it will work with 9vdc input. My impression from reading the threads is that the two that you just mentioned (sima and walmart powerline) will do so. But the online manual for the Sima SUP-1 (http://www.simacorp.com/documents/sup-1_user_manual.pdf) says it takes 12-15vdc input. I can tell you that my Radio Shack car adapters will not work with 9vdc input; I checked the output with a voltmeter and there was nothing - plus the power light stayed off. I'll assume that the Sima is different.
I'm a bit confused because Momule's ebay link suggests that any old car adapter with proper output voltage and amp rating) will work; after all, the ad doesn;t even mentioned a brand.
FWIW I was unable to find the Powerline 0900-21 on Walmart's web site. I wonder if that means it not in the stores? Powerline's web site lists it (http://www.powerexperts.com/products.html#ac) but doesn't halp with availability.
For now I'm sticking with DAT unless I can find AC... don't trust the JB3 internal battery even. (I was thinking about buying another; Creative has them for $50 refurbished, which would be great if it would get me 11 hours, but it seems like a can get only a couple and not sure about even that.)
Anyway thanks guys!
Doug
Doug
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I have a Radio shack adapter taking 7.2v > 4.5V and it worked fine. The rule of thumb is at least 2V over the desired output for standard Voltage regulators(or w/ a LDO 1V over). I have run the JB3 multiple times for ~20 hours w/ 7.2v batteries using either a hacked Radio shack adapter or a home-brew LDO VR.
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Hey Doug.
I think you may have Mis Understood the Info from the creative site.
The 11 hours is playback (not recording ) you will do good to get 3 hours of recording out of 1 internal Battery They usually go for around (2 - 2.5 hours)
Your Jb3 may shutdown if it gets too hot , you have to remember there is a Hard drive in there creating Heat aswell, so try to always keep it in the shade , if at all possible .
I know for a fact Both the Sima(sup1 & sup2) and powerline voltage regulators will work with 9v as I own and have used both (at the same time even)
this route with a 9v lithium Battery will get ya about 5 hours running it and a UA-5 , or about 12+ hours just running the Jb3..
Unless you stealth I would Honestly not waste your money On another Internal Battery for the Jb3 as for the $50 you can Buy 3 of the 9volt lithiums from ebay.
and to reply to your ? about the link I sent ya ,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5790746049&category=60208&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1
that was the powerline version, it was to simply show ya what your looking for .
here is another one that will work for ya aswell
http://cgi.ebay.com/SIMA-SUP-2-UNIVERSAL-POWER-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ7536753774QQcategoryZ50501QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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I know for a fact Both the Sima(sup1 & sup2) and powerline voltage regulators will work with 9v as I own and have used both (at the same time even) this route with a 9v lithium Battery will get ya about 5 hours running it and a UA-5 , or about 12+ hours just running the Jb3..
Which lithium battery is that?
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I know for a fact Both the Sima(sup1 & sup2) and powerline voltage regulators will work with 9v as I own and have used both (at the same time even) this route with a 9v lithium Battery will get ya about 5 hours running it and a UA-5 , or about 12+ hours just running the Jb3..
Which lithium battery is that?
go on ebay and type esa dvd battery or memorex dvd battery or initial dvd battery You'll find a fair few..
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Yeah, I have some 3600 mAH 9.6v batteries and was wondering which ones those run times were based on. I've never timed how long with which things connected (I have a UA-5 and JB3 too).
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Oops, yeah thanks - I made an error on the run times.... I don't know why my Radio Shack adpaters (2 similar ones) would not power up with a 9vdc input. Both worked fine with a 12vdc input. (no load, just checked the output voltage with a voltmeter).
I'm hoping that I have more luck with the Sima - just ordered one.
Thanks for the help
Doug
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Yeah, I have some 3600 mAH 9.6v batteries and was wondering which ones those run times were based on. I've never timed how long with which things connected (I have a UA-5 and JB3 too).
matt, i ran the jb3 for at least 11 hrs using the powerrunner batt
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I put together a voltage regulator box to generate 5v from a Walmart-type Li-ion battery. Done mainly to power a Microtrack, but I tested it with a JB3 and it worked great! I haven't tested it yet, but I'm guessing it should be good for 15 hours of runtime or so.
(http://taperssection.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=49161.0;attach=18035;image)
(http://taperssection.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=49161.0;attach=18037;image)
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looks great todd!
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http://www.bixnet.com/usbbatterybox.html
would this power a jb3? anyone use something like this ?
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looks great todd!
Thanks Bean! Can't wait for my Microtrack to show up so I can try my Juice Box out on that.
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Hey folks! I have only one JB3 battery, and i'm taping my first show tomorrow, so this morning I went on a hunt at WallWorld to see what I could come up with for remote power. I picked up a PowerLine Car Cord Adapter (3-12v/2000mA), and an Energizer Portable DVD Battery (model# ER-DVDmini-W). All I had to do was snip the cigarette lighter adapter off of the car adapter, as well as the input line from the battery then just crimped them together. Set the voltage regulator to 4.5 and WhaLa! power to the JB3 without a hitch. I haven't completed any run-time tests yet, but I thought i'd let you guys know it works. I've seen reference to the car adapter I've mentioned before, but not the battery. The battery itself is roughly the same size as the JB3, and much less bulky than the RC batteries. I'm going to pick up another one of these bad boys for the UA5..the battery is built to send 9.5v output, and that is currently what I'm using (RC batts) to power the UA5 so I see no problems using it "out of the box." Here are some pics of the setup. Feel free to ask me any questions.
(http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/1505/july050109lt.th.jpg) (http://img283.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050109lt.jpg)
(http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/431/july050112zk.th.jpg) (http://img283.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050112zk.jpg)
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7258/july050129pv.th.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050129pv.jpg)
BTW the battery was $29.94, and the car kit was $14.96 here in South Carolina.
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6374/july050136vr.th.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050136vr.jpg)
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Hey folks! I have only one JB3 battery, and i'm taping my first show tomorrow, so this morning I went on a hunt at WallWorld to see what I could come up with for remote power. I picked up a PowerLine Car Cord Adapter (3-12v/2000mA), and an Energizer Portable DVD Battery (model# ER-DVDmini-W). All I had to do was snip the cigarette lighter adapter off of the car adapter, as well as the input line from the battery then just crimped them together. Set the voltage regulator to 4.5 and WhaLa! power to the JB3 without a hitch. I haven't completed any run-time tests yet, but I thought i'd let you guys know it works. I've seen reference to the car adapter I've mentioned before, but not the battery. The battery itself is roughly the same size as the JB3, and much less bulky than the RC batteries. I'm going to pick up another one of these bad boys for the UA5..the battery is built to send 9.5v output, and that is currently what I'm using (RC batts) to power the UA5 so I see no problems using it "out of the box." Here are some pics of the setup. Feel free to ask me any questions.
(http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/1505/july050109lt.th.jpg) (http://img283.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050109lt.jpg)
(http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/431/july050112zk.th.jpg) (http://img283.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050112zk.jpg)
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7258/july050129pv.th.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050129pv.jpg)
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6374/july050136vr.th.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/my.php?image=july050136vr.jpg)
see my earlier post about using the adapter and powering a jb3 and v3 together.
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see my earlier post about using the adapter and powering a jb3 and v3 together.
I assume you are referring to the fact that I could power my JB3 and UA5 off of that one battery? I read your post before I bought this thing, but decided to go one battery/device for festival use. Although I may look into the one batt option in the future. Thanks for the suggestion anyway bud. +T if I could!
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I put together a voltage regulator box to generate 5v from a Walmart-type Li-ion battery. Done mainly to power a Microtrack, but I tested it with a JB3 and it worked great! I haven't tested it yet, but I'm guessing it should be good for 15 hours of runtime or so.
(http://taperssection.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=49161.0;attach=18035;image)
(http://taperssection.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=49161.0;attach=18037;image)
That's nice and small for stealth purposes. A 2200 mah RC battery should go with this nicely. How much for the Juice box, Todd? +T
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Thanks Spyder! The "Juice Box" is $35 shipped. It should be a good solution for running several types of 5v equipment including the JB3, the new Microtrack, and the PMD660. I can also make a version with a pass-through output for running a UA5 or V3 along with a JB3.
More info on it can be found on my post in the retail section (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=49744.msg659892#msg659892).
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Well I thought I'd finally solved the problem, ordered a voltage adapter from A-V Accessories Corp on August 10. They acknowledged the order, then.. nothing. Didn't ship it, didn't answer my email. Appears they never charged my credit card. at least.
So strike that solution... the long search for remote JB3 power continues... looks like some new solutions here, but a warning: don't order from A-V Accessories Corp.
Doug
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get one of the things todd is selling ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
you can run them from 7-14 volts i believe!
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
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http://www.bixnet.com/usbbatterybox.html
would this power a jb3? anyone use something like this ?
Bump for this question...I don't think anyone answered it!
Thanks
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
Sis got it for me at Fred Meyer's.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=49161.msg673277#msg673277 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=49161.msg673277#msg673277)
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anyone coming to Vegoose and have a fred myeres near them? i can't find that digital concepts battery pack anywhere here in vegas and will pay anyone who can get me one.thanks
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http://www.bixnet.com/usbbatterybox.html
would this power a jb3? anyone use something like this ?
Bump for this question...I don't think anyone answered it!
Thanks
Has anyone tried powering the JB3 thru the USB port?
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http://www.bixnet.com/usbbatterybox.html
would this power a jb3? anyone use something like this ?
Bump for this question...I don't think anyone answered it!
Thanks
Has anyone tried powering the JB3 thru the USB port?
I don't believe it's even an option. Is it?? ???
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I don't believe it's even an option. Is it?? ???
I dont think so, Otherwise the Jb3 prolly wouldn't come with an power adapter. I only ran mine one time VIA usb to my machine and I dont remember if it powered that way of not. I honestly doubt it.
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I use USB (apparently there is a firewire issue with MSI mobos, and I haven't gotten mine to work). It doesn't power from the computer, so I don't think it would power from a USB battery solution.
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http://www.bixnet.com/usbbatterybox.html
would this power a jb3? anyone use something like this ?
No.
It may work if you rig up a USB > Adaptaplug "B" cable but you could build a 4AA sled w/ cable for much less if you are going to the trouble of making a cable.
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I just picked up this : http://www.bixnet.com/hicamiexbapa.html
Has pretty much everything that the Digital concepts product has plus more power (4400mAh @ 5v).
The thing that sold me over the Digital Concepts product is that it was actually instock (i looked everywhere for the other) and i could get it before leaving for vegas.
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I just picked up this : http://www.bixnet.com/hicamiexbapa.html
Has pretty much everything that the Digital concepts product has plus more power (4400mAh @ 5v).
The thing that sold me over the Digital Concepts product is that it was actually instock (i looked everywhere for the other) and i could get it before leaving for vegas.
this looks pretty good, will it do the trick?
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Well, to condition it, I ran it down on my nomad...
ran for ~17 hours
recharged in 3
I'm not too worried but i'll give the lowdown after i put it through its real test @ vegoose this weekend.
All day @ the fest + moe latenight.
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good luck Row Jimmy, Ill be interested to see what happens
>:D
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Well, I don't think i even began to push it to the limits.
That said, it ran the jb3 without a hitch. during the course of the day I never powered down, just picked up my bag and ran it over to the next patch.
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I bought one and it seems to work fine I dont have any shows in the near future anyone got run times?
+ t BLoodyJACK
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for RowJimmy
So I got one of those batt. packs, and I linked it to the JB3 with the smaller of the two yellow adapters, got the polarity lined up, tried both cables (big and small) out ofthe batt. and
1. the small yellow doesnt fit in all the wa, and its the only one that remotely fits it
do you recommend going to radioshack to get another adapter
2. Is there a secret for which side to use, the switch on the back?
Each time I try, the batt picture on the JB3 stays the same, suggesting that there is no batt. pack being used :-\
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the small yellow one is the one to use. it does not go in all the way which worried me at first but, it found it to be snug and it stayed in reliably while i was in the field (all weekend at Vegoose.) Rat Shack MAY have a replacement that is shorter but, I haven't looked. (Let me know if you do!)
Be sure you have the polarity correct, i don't know what will happen if you don't but I know that it works when you do. Connect the jb3 to the side of the battery that does NOT connect to the wall. (thats the laft side if you are looking at the front of the battery.
As for the switch on the back, be sure it is set to 5v as indicated on the label on the back.
when hooked up, it should indicate AC power is in use. I ran without the internal batteries all weekend.
BTW this one does have a capacity indicator on the top (4 leds indicating, <25%, 25-50%, 50-75% & 75-100% respectivly). And check out the size.
(http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/889/picture17825oct051it.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(sorry for the sh*tty image qual)
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thanks RowJimmy, and for the personal message 8)
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so I have a couple of 9.6v rc batts but no charger...
can I feed it 9v at 1000mA from a ua5 wall wort and just pull it after 4 hours or so. or is this gonna kill one of my batteries? I'm gonna grab a smart charger but haven't gotten around to it yet.
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Does anyone know if this could work for a JB3?
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SW0XX.htm
(((KB)))
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Does anyone know if this could work for a JB3?
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SW0XX.htm
(((KB)))
+T for the link...
That is a nice packaging of a standard "buck boost" regulator, that uses one chip, two capacitors, and one inductor. A fair price and a convenient packaging IMO.
But my advice for the JB3 is to try to get a 7.2V LiIon or NiMH battery and just run a standard (7805) passive regulator. The power savings would be negligable.
I guess the active regulator might be good for a 9 or 12V input, but why not just get a 7.2V (two cell) Lithium battery?
By the way, I had a problem with the ESA 9V batteries: The battery itself would cut out if too much current was drawn (eg., running JB3 and charging its internal battery). The ESA batteries are constructed with 7.2V internal and a *step up* to 9V. So, I just soldered to the batteries themselves for 7.2V.
*Big caution* here, though. Some people say that you should not mess with LiIon cells (eg., short, charge directly etc). So, right now I'm using the builtin charge circuit, but not the output/step up stage. I just run the 7.2V into a 7805 in then into my NJB3.
Richard
PS: hey I think my bag just caught fire!!
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+T for the link...
No problem... thought it might be useful for someone. This company makes an adjustable switching regulator as well.
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm
That is a nice packaging of a standard "buck boost" regulator, that uses one chip, two capacitors, and one inductor. A fair price and a convenient packaging IMO.
But my advice for the JB3 is to try to get a 7.2V LiIon or NiMH battery and just run a standard (7805) passive regulator. The power savings would be negligable.
I guess the active regulator might be good for a 9 or 12V input, but why not just get a 7.2V (two cell) Lithium battery?
By the way, I had a problem with the ESA 9V batteries: The battery itself would cut out if too much current was drawn (eg., running JB3 and charging its internal battery). The ESA batteries are constructed with 7.2V internal and a *step up* to 9V. So, I just soldered to the batteries themselves for 7.2V.
*Big caution* here, though. Some people say that you should not mess with LiIon cells (eg., short, charge directly etc). So, right now I'm using the builtin charge circuit, but not the output/step up stage. I just run the 7.2V into a 7805 in then into my NJB3.
Richard
PS: hey I think my bag just caught fire!!
I might be over engineering this whole thing, but my plan was to use my 12v battery pack (via cig lighter port or 9v port) stepped down to a 5v. I attached a shot of the SLA packs which I've been using for about 6 yrs now.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(((KB)))
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I'm a little slow so please be bare with me. Can I just plug this in to the JB3, or do I need to sift through ends to find the right one. And what would happen if I chose wrong.
R.
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I'm a little slow so please be bare with me. Can I just plug this in to the JB3, or do I need to sift through ends to find the right one. And what would happen if I chose wrong.
R.
Yes, you have to choose the proper tip and make sure that the polarity is correct. If you choose the wrong tip it simply will not fit into the jack on the JB3. If you polarity is wrong it will not power the unit. You will know if you have it right because as soon as you plug it in the unit boots automagically. I use one of the PP99 dealios and it rocks.
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I'm a little slow so please be bare with me. Can I just plug this in to the JB3, or do I need to sift through ends to find the right one. And what would happen if I chose wrong.
R.
Yes, you have to choose the proper tip and make sure that the polarity is correct. If you choose the wrong tip it simply will not fit into the jack on the JB3. If you polarity is wrong it will not power the unit. You will know if you have it right because as soon as you plug it in the unit boots automagically. I use one of the PP99 dealios and it rocks.
Thank's, and +T
R.
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I'm a little slow so please be bare with me. Can I just plug this in to the JB3, or do I need to sift through ends to find the right one. And what would happen if I chose wrong.
R.
Yes, you have to choose the proper tip and make sure that the polarity is correct. If you choose the wrong tip it simply will not fit into the jack on the JB3. If you polarity is wrong it will not power the unit. You will know if you have it right because as soon as you plug it in the unit boots automagically. I use one of the PP99 dealios and it rocks.
Thank's, and +T
R.
back at you. if i can stay away from the white russians long enough when i get home to take some in-focus pics i will. 8)
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Picked up the PP-99 Power Pack at Fred's today, only 19.99. ;D
R.
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Picked up the PP-99 Power Pack at Fred's today, only 19.99. ;D
R.
I just looked and the tip only goes on one way. Which Fred's did you get that price at? That is a great deal.
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Anyone know about how much recording time you get with this battery?
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Anyone know about how much recording time you get with this battery?
I recorded some conferences back in early November that were 8 hour days. I would tape three, two-hour sessions (really about 1:45 each) with a 15 minute break between two of them with the PP-99 and do the last two+ hours on the internal battery.
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The store in Shoreline, WA. About a mile north of Seattle city limits. I lucked out and got the only one on the rack.
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Does the PP-99 battery require any hacking of wires in order to power the JB3? From what I got out of this thread is that it comes with adapters and you need to match up the correct ones. Is this right?
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Does the PP-99 battery require any hacking of wires in order to power the JB3? From what I got out of this thread is that it comes with adapters and you need to match up the correct ones. Is this right?
Yessir, that is correct. No hacking required.
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I don't know if anyone talked about it before but I've just found this (http://cgi.ebay.com/Creative-mp3-Battery-Extender-Nomad-Jukebox-1-2-3-UK_W0QQitemZ9722297147QQcategoryZ15058QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem).
It looks like small, not too expensive, usable for powering a single JB3 but I wondered how long... 4200mAh is good isn't it?
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I don't know if anyone talked about it before but I've just found this (http://cgi.ebay.com/Creative-mp3-Battery-Extender-Nomad-Jukebox-1-2-3-UK_W0QQitemZ9722297147QQcategoryZ15058QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem).
It looks like small, not too expensive, usable for powering a single JB3 but I wondered how long... 4200mAh is good isn't it?
according to my calculations about 6 hours
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here is Another one I just purchesed. I hope to get a chance to try it out before wakarusa. I have confirmed that the Jb3 will power up and so on with it but need to see how it does in the field.
Should be nice for thoise folks who dont know how to solder and just need something they can throw some AA's in and go.
edit to add It runs on 4 AA's.
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here is Another one I just purchesed. I hope to get a chance to try it out before wakarusa. I have confirmed that the Jb3 will power up and so on with it but need to see how it does in the field.
Should be nice for thoise folks who dont know how to solder and just need something they can throw some AA's in and go.
edit to add It runs on 4 AA's.
If you don't mind me asking, what make and model is it? I'm going to get a Digital Concepts 5v rechargeable for some festivals this summer, but I also have a camping trip that I'll be recording 3 shows in 3 days and will have VERY limited charging abilities. I wouldn't mind having something that I could just keep plugging AAs into.
Thanks,
Dave
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this guy has a ton of them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Battery-Extender-Charger-Sony-Portable-Playstation-PSP_W0QQitemZ8283926133QQcategoryZ41059QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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I don't know if anyone talked about it before but I've just found this (http://cgi.ebay.com/Creative-mp3-Battery-Extender-Nomad-Jukebox-1-2-3-UK_W0QQitemZ9722297147QQcategoryZ15058QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem).
It looks like small, not too expensive, usable for powering a single JB3 but I wondered how long... 4200mAh is good isn't it?
according to my calculations about 6 hours
I think you're off in your calculations. IIRC, the JB3 draws about 300ma on average, so this should be good for 12-14 hours. Thanks for that link, Laurent, that looks like a nice little power pack.
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IMO. I think those calculations are a bit on the low side as the jb3 can pull an amp during disc spin up and then around 350ma during playback and around 500ma during recording. Hense why I decided to go with 700ma as a average.
you gonna make it to waka again this year Todd? Hope to see ya there.
Nick
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Yep, Nick, I'll see you there! Doing it in style this year -- driving an RV out from Denver. Bringing the wife too, so I'll probably be a bit more low key. Of course, the late night sets once she's in bed might be a different story. ;)
As to the JB3 power, this thread shows measurements for about 300ma current draw:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=41007.0
300-350 seems to be about my experience from what I can tell. Plus, I really thought the internal batteries were 1100ma ea. So using two of them to get 6 to 6.5 hours seems to be consistent with a 300-350ma draw. I'm still thinking a 4200mahr battery should get you 10 hours or more.
I've got a 3000mahr battery, maybe I'll try converting some DATs with my JB3 and do some power/time calculations at the same time.
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I think you're off in your calculations. IIRC, the JB3 draws about 300ma on average, so this should be good for 12-14 hours. Thanks for that link, Laurent, that looks like a nice little power pack.
They are 1£ less if ordered from here:
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk
I've already ordered one! I might test it to record some class at university and a jazz fest this summer.
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hey rowjimmy
this thing still working for you?
I just picked up this : http://www.bixnet.com/hicamiexbapa.html
Has pretty much everything that the Digital concepts product has plus more power (4400mAh @ 5v).
The thing that sold me over the Digital Concepts product is that it was actually instock (i looked everywhere for the other) and i could get it before leaving for vegas.
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Anything to report on this...
Mine arrived today.
here is Another one I just purchesed. I hope to get a chance to try it out before wakarusa. I have confirmed that the Jb3 will power up and so on with it but need to see how it does in the field.
Should be nice for thoise folks who dont know how to solder and just need something they can throw some AA's in and go.
edit to add It runs on 4 AA's.
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OK... This thing didn't work at ALL... Is there something special I'm missing or did I just get a bad one?!?
Anything to report on this...
Mine arrived today.
here is Another one I just purchesed. I hope to get a chance to try it out before wakarusa. I have confirmed that the Jb3 will power up and so on with it but need to see how it does in the field.
Should be nice for thoise folks who dont know how to solder and just need something they can throw some AA's in and go.
edit to add It runs on 4 AA's.
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Try draining the capacity just a bit first. If it is just straight AA's then it is outputting more than the 5V that the JB3 needs. Hit it with a volt meter and confirm.
OK... This thing didn't work at ALL... Is there something special I'm missing or did I just get a bad one?!?
Anything to report on this...
Mine arrived today.
here is Another one I just purchesed. I hope to get a chance to try it out before wakarusa. I have confirmed that the Jb3 will power up and so on with it but need to see how it does in the field.
Should be nice for thoise folks who dont know how to solder and just need something they can throw some AA's in and go.
edit to add It runs on 4 AA's.
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I appreciate the tip.. however isn't the thing designed to output 5V which is the PSP spec?
Try draining the capacity just a bit first. If it is just straight AA's then it is outputting more than the 5V that the JB3 needs. Hit it with a volt meter and confirm.
OK... This thing didn't work at ALL... Is there something special I'm missing or did I just get a bad one?!?
Anything to report on this...
Mine arrived today.
here is Another one I just purchesed. I hope to get a chance to try it out before wakarusa. I have confirmed that the Jb3 will power up and so on with it but need to see how it does in the field.
Should be nice for thoise folks who dont know how to solder and just need something they can throw some AA's in and go.
edit to add It runs on 4 AA's.
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I suspect it's designed to output whatever voltage range the PSP will accept. Sounds like it could be too much for the jb3. Are you running alkaline aa batteries (1.5 volts each, or 6 volts total from 4) or nimh aa batteries (1.2 volts each or 4.8 volts total from 4)?
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I'll go home and measure. I was hoping to have a "AA" Solution. I've got plenty of NiMH "AA" Cells I'll try with those. The heat shut down the JB-3 anyway during the Donna Set anyway... D8 next to me ran just fine.
It may be time for a 660!
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I'll go home and measure. I was hoping to have a "AA" Solution. I've got plenty of NiMH "AA" Cells I'll try with those. The heat shut down the JB-3 anyway during the Donna Set anyway... D8 next to me ran just fine.
It may be time for a 660!
Anything trying to power a JB3 through the 5V port using 4 AA batteries is doomed to failure. Even if they're alkaline batteries and start out at 6V total, that's not enough over voltage to drive a power regulator (if that unit has one inside it).
The JB3 needs a steady 5V supply and it's pretty fickle about the voltage range it can accept.
If you use something with a regulator like a 7805 it needs some headspace on the voltage, like 1.5V. So if you started with a sled of 6 NiMH AA batteries that will give you about 7.2V going to the regulator which would then knock it down to 5V and you'd be good until the AA's drain from 1.2V each to 1.1 V each. Which would take how long? Probably not very long. I think if it were me I'd get a sled of 8 AA's and run that to the regulator. That would give you a lot more headroom b/c you could drain it from 9.6 down to 6.5V and you'd get the full capacity of the batteries that way.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Creative-Nomad-Jukebox-2-3-External-Battery-25-50-hours_W0QQitemZ320003053525QQihZ011QQcategoryZ86541QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/Creative-Nomad-Jukebox-2-3-External-Battery-25-50-hours_W0QQitemZ320003053525QQihZ011QQcategoryZ86541QQcmdZViewItem)
Just got one on the mail today. It's really small and looks awesome.
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I'll go home and measure. I was hoping to have a "AA" Solution. I've got plenty of NiMH "AA" Cells I'll try with those. The heat shut down the JB-3 anyway during the Donna Set anyway... D8 next to me ran just fine.
It may be time for a 660!
Anything trying to power a JB3 through the 5V port using 4 AA batteries is doomed to failure. Even if they're alkaline batteries and start out at 6V total, that's not enough over voltage to drive a power regulator (if that unit has one inside it).
The JB3 needs a steady 5V supply and it's pretty fickle about the voltage range it can accept.
If you use something with a regulator like a 7805 it needs some headspace on the voltage, like 1.5V. So if you started with a sled of 6 NiMH AA batteries that will give you about 7.2V going to the regulator which would then knock it down to 5V and you'd be good until the AA's drain from 1.2V each to 1.1 V each. Which would take how long? Probably not very long. I think if it were me I'd get a sled of 8 AA's and run that to the regulator. That would give you a lot more headroom b/c you could drain it from 9.6 down to 6.5V and you'd get the full capacity of the batteries that way.
Six batteries (7.2V) through a regulator should do it. I'm running two LiIon cells (3.6V each, total 7.2V) through a standard 7805 and that works fine.
Don't put too much input voltage in because you'll be: 1) wasting battery, 2) heating the regulator (need a bigger heatsink). Also, you can get "low drop out" regulators that will work with lower headroom, maybe down to 0.5V. (So, five cells might even work.) But I have not tried these yet.
Richard
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fyi, built a voltage regulator out of a 7805 (purchased at my friendly neighborhood radio shack and mounted into an empty altoids box) for my jb3. I'm using it with 9 volt 5400mah wallmart-style Lithium Ion Batteries (purchased direct from an ebay seller for $25 apiece shipped).
the wallmart-style battery will power the jb3 and my t+mod ua5 for a HAIR under 6 hours, with the ua5 providing phantom power to a relatively power-hungry studio projects lsd2.
The altoids box vr does get a bit warm, but ran this rig throughout the telluride bluegrass festival without any problem.
A few observations:
1) critical that you remove the batteries from the jb3 when using this external powering scheme as the jb3 appears to pull a LOT more power with the batteries in.
2) the external battery pack will not reliably power the jb3 when transferring wavs to the pc (likely too much power drain).
3) the external battery pack will reliably charge the jb3's internal batteries.
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^^^points 1) and 3) are interconnected.
If you run external power with internalls that are not fully charged the unit will atomatically charge them. If you run external power with fully charged internalls you should have nothing to worry about. as well as the confidence that if your externalls run out the jb3 will continue to record powered by the internalls.
NEVER run externall power with undercharged internalls!
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Thanks for the info, and +T to both of you.
I run my NJB3 with internal battery in and charged.
I can get over 12hrs from a 9V, 5400mAh battery (*), running just the NJB3.
(*) 7805 regulator running directly to the internal cells. Maybe risking a meltdown ala uTrack, but that's what I do. If I run from the 9V output, the battery cuts out sometimes, probably due to large current draw attempting to charge the internal battery.
Richard
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Thanks for all of the tips!
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Other easier power supplies include a lot of the external batteries for the PSP (PlayStation Portable) as it's also 5V. I have 3 battery packs, 2 Lion that work great and the one I reeeeeeally wanted to work doesn't. It's a battery pack that takes 4 AA batteries and is supposed to power the PSP with 5V, but for some reason it doesn't work at all with my CJB3. I don't have a PSP to figure out if it's a faulty unit or not. Picked it up in Florida on vacation so I haven't tried to return or exchange it.
The Lion ones will power the CJB playing about 8 hours, they seem to get between 4 and 6 hours of recording time. Both that I have are color coded for green (full charge), yellow (half charge), and red (about to die) so they are really handy for recording and if you slap in a battery while in the red, it will continue recording without issue.
This one is my favorite and has a built in flashlight that is super handy in the field!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49230&item=190000212404
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Does that battery you found on ebay come with a charger or do can you use the wall charger that comes with the JB3? Anyone have any luck with this?
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&item=220003297599&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
Came to about $26 US with shipping. Unlike the other AA Battery pack I have, this has the 20cm long plug...looking at the one I have that doesn't work, it's only about 12cm. It will probably work on a PSP like stated, but didn't work for the CJB3.
While the Lion batteries are cheaper, I think something like this is a great fallback for festivals where charging it isn't an option...you can buy a bunch of AA batteries for a decent price and have unlimited power with this adapter.
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So all of you with a good powering solution...
Wanna Buy an Oade WMod+ UA5 and JB3...
I just ordered the 660! ;D
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hey rowjimmy
this thing still working for you?
I just picked up this : http://www.bixnet.com/hicamiexbapa.html
Has pretty much everything that the Digital concepts product has plus more power (4400mAh @ 5v).
The thing that sold me over the Digital Concepts product is that it was actually instock (i looked everywhere for the other) and i could get it before leaving for vegas.
Sorry I'm so late in replying to this but... Lemmee tell you. this battery still smokes. It ran like a champ at vegoose. I never had to use my two internals (which I had on hand and charged for back-up.) I wouldn't even think of running the jb3 on the internals except as a backup to this battery. Its easy and has terrific capacity. It also powers my m-audio audiophile firewire... (seperately, of course.)
I may buy a second one for the pre that i'm eyeballing...
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Thanks for the info, and +T to both of you.
I run my NJB3 with internal battery in and charged.
Richard
Thats a real good Idea IMO
ps.
Oysterhead I’m kinda thinking your PSP Batt pack does not work because that it’s not enough mAh. I've tried a few different Car adaptors for the PSP and the first of 3 different ones have worked.
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I'm a little slow so please be bare with me. Can I just plug this in to the JB3, or do I need to sift through ends to find the right one. And what would happen if I chose wrong.
R.
Yes, you have to choose the proper tip and make sure that the polarity is correct. If you choose the wrong tip it simply will not fit into the jack on the JB3. If you polarity is wrong it will not power the unit. You will know if you have it right because as soon as you plug it in the unit boots automagically. I use one of the PP99 dealios and it rocks.
I picked up one of these (PP99) and I'm pretty sure I am using the right tip, but its still not powering up... You can't really reverse the polarity on these, right?
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This is a much better way to power your jb3 $29.99 from Fred Myer comes with the ends to fit almost everything has a 5volt output setting and is rechargable from the wall and from your car.
4000mah lithium-ion with a little meter like the wallyworld battery only smaller.
I'm a little slow so please be bare with me. Can I just plug this in to the JB3, or do I need to sift through ends to find the right one. And what would happen if I chose wrong.
R.
Yes, you have to choose the proper tip and make sure that the polarity is correct. If you choose the wrong tip it simply will not fit into the jack on the JB3. If you polarity is wrong it will not power the unit. You will know if you have it right because as soon as you plug it in the unit boots automagically. I use one of the PP99 dealios and it rocks.
I picked up one of these (PP99) and I'm pretty sure I am using the right tip, but its still not powering up... You can't really reverse the polarity on these, right?
hells yeah you can reverse the polarity, thats why there is a POSITIVE (+) end and a NEGATIVE (-) end RESPECTIVELY. You better hope you didnt fry anything Nick :(
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Well how can you reverse the polarity then - I thought it was merely done by changing the way the tip was placed onto the cable...? And thats kinda an impossibility with these because of the truncated circle shape the connectors are in
(http://s2.excoboard.com/forums/2220/user/14056/393590.jpg)
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Also noted that my JB3's DC IN works fine with an AC adapter plugged in... Maybe its just the cable, I know it needs tip negative but there is no indication of how the cable-adapters are that come with it. And I really have no idea about this stuff.. Any help would be awesome...
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try a ISO:jb3 power cable in the YS. see what pops up, lots of folks have old jb3 stuff not being used anymore, might find a cheep solution. :)
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try a ISO:jb3 power cable in the YS. see what pops up, lots of folks have old jb3 stuff not being used anymore, might find a cheep solution. :)
Well I mean I just dropped $30 on this, and Shane has the same exact thing, so it SHOULD work with what it came with. :-\
Thanks for the advice though :)
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Okay, here's a really silly question. Are you sure that the tip is seated the whole way in the cable? Mine IIRC took some force to seat into the connector. If that's not the issue I can bring my battery and cable to test out also. Are you getting 3 lights on the battery?
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Okay, here's a really silly question. Are you sure that the tip is seated the whole way in the cable? Mine IIRC took some force to seat into the connector. If that's not the issue I can bring my battery and cable to test out also. Are you getting 3 lights on the battery?
Yeah and I left it to charge all night... But I didn't think you were working tonight?
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Okay, here's a really silly question. Are you sure that the tip is seated the whole way in the cable? Mine IIRC took some force to seat into the connector. If that's not the issue I can bring my battery and cable to test out also. Are you getting 3 lights on the battery?
Yeah and I left it to charge all night... But I didn't think you were working tonight?
I'm not. And I never said anything about tonight Mr. reading comprehension. :P ;)
So when you put the cable in the battery you get the three lights then? What voltage and polarity do you have at the JB3 end?
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Okay, here's a really silly question. Are you sure that the tip is seated the whole way in the cable? Mine IIRC took some force to seat into the connector. If that's not the issue I can bring my battery and cable to test out also. Are you getting 3 lights on the battery?
Yeah and I left it to charge all night... But I didn't think you were working tonight?
I'm not. And I never said anything about tonight Mr. reading comprehension. :P ;)
So when you put the cable in the battery you get the three lights then? What voltage and polarity do you have at the JB3 end?
Well I have the battery set for 5V and the tip plugged into the cable the only way it can be plugged into the cable
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volt meter
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Where can I find a volt meter?
Maybe its the cable that came with it, well im gonna run to Shadio Rack and see if a cable they have there will work...
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Where can I find a volt meter?
Maybe its the cable that came with it, well im gonna run to Shadio Rack and see if a cable they have there will work...
Fuck that. Go to Radio Shack and buy a voltmeter.
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Where can I find a volt meter?
Maybe its the cable that came with it, well im gonna run to Shadio Rack and see if a cable they have there will work...
Fuck that. Go to Radio Shack and buy a voltmeter.
Well in any event I am going to Radio Shack... Thanks :)
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Turns out it was the cable...went to Radio Shack and we tried a cable and it worked without a hitch... Cost me $20 but what the hell... Thanks again for the help