Author Topic: Wal-Mart Battery - field problems (Read 16271 times)

gmm6797 · « **on:** August 28, 2006, 07:10:21 PM »

Got to a show on Friday night, plugged in my Wal-Mart battery to my pre-amp... and nada... no power, no juice, nothing when i hit the test button.

When I get home, I plug it into the wall adapter for a mili-second, and the levels on the battery go back to 100% full.

Anyone know what causes this? How to fix it in the field?

Any help or thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks

Howell · « **Reply #1 on:** August 28, 2006, 07:35:22 PM »

This also happened to me earlier in the summer, same symptoms and same fix. Kind of ironic that it was gmm6797 that came through with a spare battery for me that night

My guess is there is some kind of magnetic force field around SPAC that is messing with the batteries

dnsacks · « **Reply #2 on:** August 28, 2006, 07:42:16 PM »

I believe these lithium ion batteries have overload/short protection that isn't reset until you plug 'em back into a charger.

Darrin

spyder9 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 28, 2006, 09:57:56 PM »

Its happened to me too. I found connecting the battery first to the preamp, then turn on the preamp, avoids this issue. I used the Walmart to juice both my UA5 and JB3. Can' tell you how many times I freaked when it happened to me at a show. I'm sure Timbo (raoulduke) will share his expereince with these batteries when we were at Black Crowes NYE this year.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:47:15 PM »

Quote from: spyder9 on August 28, 2006, 09:57:56 PM

I found connecting the battery first to the preamp, then turn on the preamp, avoids this issue.

Dan - I dont follow the plugging/powering order.... I always plug in the cable to the battery, then the other end of the cable to my preamp, then turn the preamp on...

I wish I could make this happen @ home to do some playing/testing, but I dont know how I made the breaker "trip" in the 1st place

gmm6797 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 28, 2006, 11:43:00 PM »

May be Ill return to bringing extra AA batteries for my pre-amp... wont add too much weight to my gear bag.

A very scary NYE run story from a gear perspective!

tonyvt · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2006, 04:30:34 PM »

The same thing happened to me at Greyfox in 2005 and then at a Wilco show at the Memorial Auditorium. Needless to say I no longer trust this battery and no longer use it.

coloartist · « **Reply #7 on:** August 29, 2006, 04:43:01 PM »

I have seen this happen to somebody else I was with. It is a short protection in the battery for sure. As they said above it just needs to be plugged in to a wall socket with the charger. I always carry a few extras just in case, but it has never happened to me.

It is definately not from starting the V3 with Phantom on. I do that every time I have used them.

I would think there is a short in the power cable.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 29, 2006, 10:41:14 PM »

Does anyone think an in-line fuse in the cable might help?

Just trying to come up with an idea that we can more easily work with in the field

whatboutbob · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2006, 05:21:55 AM »

ooh...i'm pretty sure i know what causes this...forgive my non-technical description...but its caused by the connector shorting out the battery when you plug it in. Duh you say. But I found after trial and error that the connectors have varying coverage of "rubber"(?) on the tips. The connectors with less rubber wrapping around into the inside of the tip shorted out constantly. I had to go through and try about 30 different connectors (at the store) before I found one with good rubber coverage that I couldn't short the battery out with (a bunch of them would only short the battery maybe 10% of the time).

Apologies for not mentioning it earlier but I didn't bother cos i thought I was the only one who didn't have access to ratshack and was therefore using 'dodgy' connectors from my local store. Hope this hopes y'all out.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 20, 2006, 10:30:08 AM »

Quote from: whatboutbob on September 20, 2006, 05:21:55 AM

Apologies for not mentioning it earlier but I didn't bother cos i thought I was the only one who didn't have access to ratshack and was therefore using 'dodgy' connectors from my local store. Hope this hopes y'all out.

Not to throw this off, but, my connectors and cable are ShitShack and I still get the shorts

whatboutbob · « **Reply #11 on:** September 20, 2006, 10:35:19 AM »

Quote from: gmm6797 on September 20, 2006, 10:30:08 AM

Quote from: whatboutbob on September 20, 2006, 05:21:55 AM
Apologies for not mentioning it earlier but I didn't bother cos i thought I was the only one who didn't have access to ratshack and was therefore using 'dodgy' connectors from my local store. Hope this hopes y'all out.

Not to throw this off, but, my connectors and cable are ShitShack and I still get the shorts

I previously just assumed that ratshack connectors were ok cos I'd never heard anything against 'em...i take that assumption back now. It still sounds very much like what I've experienced.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 20, 2006, 10:45:23 AM »

Quote from: whatboutbob on September 20, 2006, 10:35:19 AM

I previously just assumed that ratshack connectors were ok cos I'd never heard anything against 'em...i take that assumption back now. It still sounds very much like what I've experienced.

It could be user error, but may be I got lucky for 4 months and then 2 shows in a row with problems... never said i knew all LOL

willndmb · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2006, 11:30:15 AM »

bring the wall charger with you to the show
that way if you have a prob, you can find a plug to reset it
almost every venue willhave a plug somewhere you can get for 1 sec

it-goes-to-eleven · « **Reply #14 on:** September 20, 2006, 11:47:18 AM »

My wally charger puts out 12v. I wonder if you could reset the breaker using a regular 9v? That way you'd just need a 9v to wally input cord instead of the a/c charger.

coloartist · « **Reply #15 on:** September 20, 2006, 05:03:01 PM »

Never have ever had this happen to me as I said earlier, I have seen it happen to others..

I am not using a radio shack connector, so I am going to have to reccommend the fine company and friend, that makes all my connectors and cables.

www.kindkables.com

Ed will set you up fast, and you hopefully will never have a short again.

http://kindkables.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=11&products_id=29&osCsid=90903703eb2e31e6d1cc49422a6cbbfd

deadheaded · « **Reply #16 on:** September 20, 2006, 05:33:16 PM »

Thanks Bennett!!!

thunderbroom · « **Reply #17 on:** September 20, 2006, 10:48:13 PM »

Quote from: whatboutbob on September 20, 2006, 05:21:55 AM

ooh...i'm pretty sure i know what causes this...forgive my non-technical description...but its caused by the connector shorting out the battery when you plug it in. Duh you say. But I found after trial and error that the connectors have varying coverage of "rubber"(?) on the tips. The connectors with less rubber wrapping around into the inside of the tip shorted out constantly. I had to go through and try about 30 different connectors (at the store) before I found one with good rubber coverage that I couldn't short the battery out with (a bunch of them would only short the battery maybe 10% of the time).

Apologies for not mentioning it earlier but I didn't bother cos i thought I was the only one who didn't have access to ratshack and was therefore using 'dodgy' connectors from my local store. Hope this hopes y'all out.

I had two batteries at one time and used the same cord for both batteries. One battery worked great and the other would short at least 50% of the time. I think the main problem with them is the dubious quality control.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 21, 2006, 12:54:48 AM »

Quote from: coloartist on September 20, 2006, 05:03:01 PM

I am not using a radio shack connector, so I am going to have to reccommend the fine company and friend, that makes all my connectors and cables.
www.kindkables.com
Ed will set you up fast, and you hopefully will never have a short again.

Will he make custom cables for the Wal-Mart battery? I use the battery with a ua5 or a schoeps vms02 (same plarity and size on both... lucky me)

coloartist · « **Reply #19 on:** September 21, 2006, 10:52:30 AM »

He will make custom anything!

terrapinj · « **Reply #20 on:** September 21, 2006, 02:12:45 PM »

i don't think it has anything to do with the battery itself. at wakarusa my buddy shorted his battery, so i loaned him one of mine, and it immediately blew as well, reset it and i have never had issues with it since, he was using a homemade power cable which was likley the culprit.

deadheaded · « **Reply #21 on:** September 21, 2006, 03:56:22 PM »

i can make you a cable that will power both ua-5 & vms2 1b from 1 lion battery.
all parts in stock and can ship right away.
thanks
ed

612 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 22, 2006, 10:36:09 AM »

Yep this short cost me a Built to Spill tape last week. Adaptaplugs from RS & the ESA 9v. Last night I charged it back up to a solid green and did the plug into batt, plug into UA-5 and then power up UA-5 (phantom power on) method. The UA-5 was powered up for less than a minute and then crapped out just like at the show. BUT...

I tried a second time, this time only charging the batt for 5 seconds with the wall adapter. Then...cable into battery, cable into UA-5, power up UA-5...I ran the UA-5 for around 2 hours give or take without issue. So while I am now weary of these batteries I can testify that this reset/jump start method can save you in a pinch if you can get the charger into a venue outlet for a few seconds.

coloartist · « **Reply #23 on:** September 22, 2006, 11:41:49 AM »

I am telling you all, I have never had this problem. Buy better cables.

dnsacks · « **Reply #24 on:** September 22, 2006, 12:42:09 PM »

seems the common factor in the failures is folks using the rs adaptaplug setups -- sounds like they're CLOSE to the dimensions of the stock connectors but not exactly right, leading to either shorts or intermittent connections that trip the batterys' protection circuits. I'll def. put in another vote for ed's work, and it sounds like his cables have field tested quite well.

Another alternative, if you're at all handy with electricity/a soldiering iron is to simply homebrew a cable out of the cable that comes with the wallmart battery and the wall wart that comes with the ua5 (or cable that comes with another device). I did this (simply cut each cable where necessary, peeled back the insulation on each cut end and soldiered together the appropriate wires to obtain proper polarity) and have yet to run into this problem with the several different batteries I use.

612 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 22, 2006, 12:54:44 PM »

Quote from: raoulduke on September 22, 2006, 11:56:28 AM

Quote from: coloartist on September 22, 2006, 11:41:49 AM
I am telling you all, I have never had this problem. Buy better cables.
qft. get ahold of ed everybody.

Will do. Thanks.

twatts (pants are so over-rated...) · « **Reply #26 on:** September 22, 2006, 02:06:53 PM »

When I first started running the Wally battery for my UA5, I had another second dongle for my ODL276. I lasted one show - I plugged into the battery and went to plug into my UA5, but the 2 ends had touch, shorting out the battery.

Remember that UA5 is reverse polarity, so it + is on the outside. Where are the polarity of everything else is normal, so - is on the outside. It might be the other way, but irregardlsss, touch these 2 and you've just shorted your battery.

It will reset when you plug in to charge.

Terry

it-goes-to-eleven · « **Reply #27 on:** September 22, 2006, 02:21:33 PM »

Can someone post a pic of the connector they were using when this problem occurred and the gear they were running on the battery?

As I look into the output socket of a wally battery, I see the ground connector is Very close to the + pin. If the + pin were to get briefly bent during plug insertion, I could see how it might touch the ground contact. However, the circuit may not be live until the ground connector is displaced by the plug.

Edit: I very rarely unplug my wally batteries and haven't had a problem.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 23, 2006, 06:01:24 PM »

Quote from: Freelunch on September 22, 2006, 02:21:33 PM

Can someone post a pic of the connector they were using when this problem occurred and the gear they were running on the battery?

Hard to get good close pix with out a macro lens, so I posted them on my WWW: http://www.tikcuf.com/photos/main.php?g2_itemId=1208

Brian Skalinder · « **Reply #29 on:** September 30, 2006, 10:17:26 AM »

Quote from: dnsacks on September 22, 2006, 12:42:09 PM

I did this (simply cut each cable where necessary, peeled back the insulation on each cut end and soldiered together the appropriate wires to obtain proper polarity) and have yet to run into this problem with the several different batteries I use.

Same here. All my power cords use the stock connector hacked into my own cable, because I've had poor results with the RS adapters. And for those who suck at, do not, or are afraid to solder, you can simply use screw-on connectors. This is what I do. Very secure, and easily field-fixable should a problem arise.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #30 on:** October 12, 2006, 12:10:29 AM »

Got my cable from Ed the other day, and tried it on the closest battery and poof, it tripped the battery.

This is nothing about tne cable from Ed, but it is a fact that these batteries are not a guarente to work correctly in the field, so be warned.

It seems like it is a "your mileage will vary from battery to battery".

And the cabel from Ed is nice and a lot better build than the ShitShack version I was using before.

scb · « **Reply #31 on:** October 12, 2006, 11:18:16 AM »

i cut the cable that came with my walmart batteries and soldered a 4 pin xlr to the end. simple solution to get it to play nice with the toys

coloartist · « **Reply #32 on:** October 12, 2006, 03:53:43 PM »

I would think you have a bad battery.

I have 7 of them, and haven't had a problem.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #33 on:** October 12, 2006, 10:51:53 PM »

I have 3 of them that I have used interchangably and not noted which one (or ones) have crapped out, I am going to make a not of which one caused the problem, and see if I can repeat it.

A pain in the butt if I cant narrow it down

gmm6797 · « **Reply #34 on:** October 22, 2006, 10:44:37 PM »

OK, going to the show
2 fully charged batteries in hand, new "Ed" cable, power cord... both tested over and over again with Schoepd VMS02ib pre-amp @ home, and no issues.

Set up the rig, wire everything, testing and all is working. Pre on and off all is good.

Looking like show time, Wal-Mart battery, dead (well tripped and will not put power out or show any test lights). Check the lights on #2, hook it up, poof, goes dead.

Put in the 8 AA batteries, and run fine for the show.

Anyone have any freaking clue what could be causing this?

I had no problems running the same mics and pre and Wal-Mart battieries all summer (about 15-20 shows), but since late August, I keep getting shit on.

Thanks

it-goes-to-eleven · « **Reply #35 on:** October 23, 2006, 09:23:54 AM »

So the battery went dead when you hooked it up... BEFORE you turned anything on?

Can you confirm that nothing in your rig draws power until it is turned on? Your cable just runs from the lion to the vms and nothing else?

Are these batteries known to work with other rigs, etc?

I'd troubleshoot it with a dvm. If you plug a bat in and it trips, I'd unplug that cable from the battery and immediately measure the resistance the battery is seeing on that cable. I'm guessing you'll see a short (possibly inside the vms).

While testing, continuously measure the resistance the battery would see if plugged in while you wiggle and stress each connection. You will probably need some clips to hold the probes or have someone do it. Wiggle the cabbles slowly and watch for any shorts or variations.

When is the last time you were able to power the vms via external battery?

gmm6797 · « **Reply #36 on:** October 23, 2006, 01:34:25 PM »

Quote from: Freelunch on October 23, 2006, 09:23:54 AM

So the battery went dead when you hooked it up... BEFORE you turned anything on?

The 1st one did power it while hooking up the rig, but not when I turned the pre on the 2nd time
The 2nd one testes fine, and as soon as I turned the pre on, it was dead

Quote

Can you confirm that nothing in your rig draws power until it is turned on? Your cable just runs from the lion to the vms and nothing else?

I would assime not, as the power switch is set to "off"

Quote

Are these batteries known to work with other rigs, etc?

I do not have any other gear handy, but I can test next show with others, not sure when that will be

Quote

I'd troubleshoot it with a dvm. If you plug a bat in and it trips, I'd unplug that cable from the battery and immediately measure the resistance the battery is seeing on that cable. I'm guessing you'll see a short (possibly inside the vms).
While testing, continuously measure the resistance the battery would see if plugged in while you wiggle and stress each connection. You will probably need some clips to hold the probes or have someone do it. Wiggle the cabbles slowly and watch for any shorts or variations.

Unfortunatley all of this is way over my head. I will admit I am not an engineer, but I will check with another friend of mine who is on this list and uses these batteries an lives 30min away to see if he follows. He is also the one who pushed me to used these with my VMS since he had success.

Quote

When is the last time you were able to power the vms via external battery?

September 13th, I even labeled that battery as a possible bad one (as I have 3 or 4 of these).

I ran the same 2 show after show after show this summer with no problems. Several people here blames by Radio Shack cable, so I grabbed a cable from Ed, which was what I used Wednesday night.

The PreAmp was sent back to Schoeps and was given a 100% bill of health in December, but it has been used about 30-40 times since then, about 1/2 with the Wal-Mart battery.

Thanks!

it-goes-to-eleven · « **Reply #37 on:** October 24, 2006, 10:56:19 AM »

If the batteries are good then I think you have a short somewhere in your rig. Could be a single tiny strand of wire in the socket of your vms or inside..

My Grandfather gave me my first voltmeter when I was about 8... They aren't hard to use... Heck, my 4th grade teacher had us building flashlights and winding armatures to build electric motors (he was a cool guy!). I consider being able to use a dvm a basic life survival skill.. These days you can get a decent digital dvm for about $10 on sale. $20-$25 tops. I'm sure there are some excellent tutorials on the web. Empower yourself!

Digital Quality · « **Reply #38 on:** October 24, 2006, 12:16:59 PM »

A short or some other current spike. It'd be really useful if you could measure the peak current - even when connecting to the other batteries. There could also be a bad resistor in there that's allowing capacitance to charge up too quickly.

Edit: Have you tried plugging things in the other way? You said you plug in the battery then the pre. Try plugging in the pre first and then connecting to the battery. If the connector for the battery end of the cable fits a little better it could reduce that momentary current spike.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 24, 2006, 06:30:06 PM »

Quote from: Riff Raff on October 24, 2006, 12:16:59 PM

A short or some other current spike. It'd be really useful if you could measure the peak current - even when connecting to the other batteries. There could also be a bad resistor in there that's allowing capacitance to charge up too quickly.

Edit: Have you tried plugging things in the other way? You said you plug in the battery then the pre. Try plugging in the pre first and then connecting to the battery. If the connector for the battery end of the cable fits a little better it could reduce that momentary current spike.

Well, I never actually "plug" in that specific of an order, but I am going to mess with it some more... the only thing I find weird (in a good way) is the VMS is 100% fine with AA batteries in it, so it is actually comepltly useable for 4+ hours this way. The Wa-Mart battery sould give me 12+ hours... but have not needed that long of a run since 1989

Quote from: Freelunch on October 24, 2006, 10:56:19 AM

If the batteries are good then I think you have a short somewhere in your rig. Could be a single tiny strand of wire in the socket of your vms or inside..

My Grandfather gave me my first voltmeter when I was about 8... They aren't hard to use... Heck, my 4th grade teacher had us building flashlights and winding armatures to build electric motors (he was a cool guy!). I consider being able to use a dvm a basic life survival skill.. These days you can get a decent digital dvm for about $10 on sale. $20-$25 tops. I'm sure there are some excellent tutorials on the web. Empower yourself!

Well, as much as I understand what you are saying, I know when to say no, and this is one of those times!
I am not good with the electronics side of being a geek, and I would rather pay someone else an hourly rate to do this... As I have the luck where I would fry my VMS, battery, cable, etc.. and that is harder to replace out of my own wallet!
Call me chicken if you want

gmm6797 · « **Reply #40 on:** October 24, 2006, 09:08:09 PM »

Just bougth a custom cable from Ed @ KindKables, so that is not the problem.... as I trust Ed's cables like no other, as others here in this thread do too... :-(

Quote from: O-Canis on October 24, 2006, 07:58:50 PM

This has only happened to me once... well twice in rapid succession... but with two different batts. One mine and the other the spare of a kind local taper who is tramping around Scotland right now...

I know that my wire lash up, battery to UA5, is suspect but if it can stay put and not move it's OK. I think the connector is also key but I too use a hacked connector that comes with the battery to take power from the battery. Someone has posted here on TS somewhere that the connectors (prolly the Rat Shacks) are inconsistent in build quality and he's convinced that this is part of the shorting problem. The battery seems to be dead but in fact the charging circuit (I imagine) is some how "stuck" in dark lamp mode when shorted... until you hit it with power from the wall wart charger. My fix is to carry the damn AC charger now and trust the fact that the batteries have performed well with the same hardware for basically two years. (Sorry if any of this is a rehash, I haven't read the whole thread.)

willndmb · « **Reply #41 on:** October 25, 2006, 12:58:28 PM »

Quote from: Riff Raff on October 24, 2006, 12:16:59 PM

Edit: Have you tried plugging things in the other way? You said you plug in the battery then the pre. Try plugging in the pre first and then connecting to the battery. If the connector for the battery end of the cable fits a little better it could reduce that momentary current spike.

i have heard of this being the prob from others too
if they plugged the battery in 1st it woudl die, if they plugged the pre in 1st they were ok

i always plug the pre in 1st and have never had a prob that way, see if you can test it out more at home like that
going batt > pre, pre > batt

gmm6797 · « **Reply #42 on:** October 25, 2006, 01:37:00 PM »

Quote from: willndmb on October 25, 2006, 12:58:28 PM

i have heard of this being the prob from others too
if they plugged the battery in 1st it woudl die, if they plugged the pre in 1st they were ok

i always plug the pre in 1st and have never had a prob that way, see if you can test it out more at home like that
going batt > pre, pre > batt

This is crazy, but I will give it a try.

So you are saying plug the cable into the battery then plug the cable into the pre... and not the other way around?

dnsacks · « **Reply #43 on:** October 25, 2006, 01:41:04 PM »

other way around. Plug the cable into the pre first, then confirm the pre is turned OFF. Finally, plug the cable into the battery. If the battery shorts/fails before you turn on the pre, I'd be fairly confident you have a short somewhere in your cable/pre. If the battery doesn't short/fail after plugging in in, power up the pre.

gmm6797 · « **Reply #44 on:** October 25, 2006, 04:11:54 PM »

Quote from: dnsacks on October 25, 2006, 01:41:04 PM

other way around. Plug the cable into the pre first, then confirm the pre is turned OFF. Finally, plug the cable into the battery. If the battery shorts/fails before you turn on the pre, I'd be fairly confident you have a short somewhere in your cable/pre. If the battery doesn't short/fail after plugging in in, power up the pre.

Ah, OK.... crazier things have worked, so Ill give it a whirl

Thanks!

willndmb · « **Reply #45 on:** October 25, 2006, 07:31:18 PM »

Quote from: O-Canis on October 25, 2006, 05:09:41 PM

Just to chime in again, I keep my pre plugged in to the power "harnes" at all times, plug the battery in, then turn on the pre. It's possible that when I had my problem I somehow had the pre power button "on" .

this is what i do, the cable is plugged into the pre 100% of the time
and then i plug the cable into the battery and turn the pre on
i am using a bumblebee vr box, but tripping the battery should be the same no matter what you use for a cable

capnhook · « **Reply #46 on:** January 09, 2007, 02:02:09 AM »

I got a new pair of these Li-ion 9V rechargeables to maybe replace the 2-9V alkaline power supply I use to power my NAK MX-100 mixer. Gonna hack the cables tomorrow and solder the ends into a 4-pin female mic connector, like the 2 alkalines are setup now. There's no power switch on the mixer, so I'll be plugging in hot ---- hope the current surge doesn't pop the protection circuit, or else I'll be back to using alkalines again. I suppose one could make up a 12V sled of AAA batteries to jumpstart a Li-ion, though.........it would save having to search around for AC. I'll let you know if this works for me......

Roving Sign · « **Reply #47 on:** January 09, 2007, 10:25:05 AM »

Quote from: capnhook on January 09, 2007, 02:02:09 AM

I got a new pair of these Li-ion 9V rechargeables to maybe replace the 2-9V alkaline power supply I use to power my NAK MX-100 mixer. Gonna hack the cables tomorrow and solder the ends into a 4-pin female mic connector, like the 2 alkalines are setup now. There's no power switch on the mixer, so I'll be plugging in hot ---- hope the current surge doesn't pop the protection circuit, or else I'll be back to using alkalines again. I suppose one could make up a 12V sled of AAA batteries to jumpstart a Li-ion, though.........it would save having to search around for AC. I'll let you know if this works for me......

Wow - that ought to last awhile...!

I was wondering if there was a way to pull it off using 1 Wally 9v - and some sort voltage splitter/divider?

The MX100 does suck down the 9v snap ons - I feel like I have to use a new set every show...

capnhook · « **Reply #48 on:** January 09, 2007, 01:02:37 PM »

Quote from: Roving Sign on January 09, 2007, 10:25:05 AM

Quote from: capnhook on January 09, 2007, 02:02:09 AM

I got a new pair of these Li-ion 9V rechargeables to maybe replace the 2-9V alkaline power supply I use to power my NAK MX-100 mixer. Gonna hack the cables tomorrow and solder the ends into a 4-pin female mic connector, like the 2 alkalines are setup now. There's no power switch on the mixer, so I'll be plugging in hot ---- hope the current surge doesn't pop the protection circuit, or else I'll be back to using alkalines again. I suppose one could make up a 12V sled of AAA batteries to jumpstart a Li-ion, though.........it would save having to search around for AC. I'll let you know if this works for me......

Wow - that ought to last awhile...!

I was wondering if there was a way to pull it off using 1 Wally 9v - and some sort voltage splitter/divider?

The MX100 does suck down the 9v snap ons - I feel like I have to use a new set every show...

Yeah, I used to have a great source for Heavy Duty 9Vs at the indian reservation near here ------- $0.49 for a pair. I would just run them one show, and give them away to people afterward.

Think the 12V bump sled would work to reset the Li-ions?

Javier Cinakowski · « **Reply #49 on:** January 09, 2007, 01:11:43 PM »

I keep my cable plugged into the pre and the battery at all times. Does this drain the battery down even if the pre isn't on? Should I not do that?

Chuck · « **Reply #50 on:** January 15, 2007, 06:26:52 PM »

Quote from: capnhook on January 09, 2007, 02:02:09 AM

I got a new pair of these Li-ion 9V rechargeables to maybe replace the 2-9V alkaline power supply I use to power my NAK MX-100 mixer. Gonna hack the cables tomorrow and solder the ends into a 4-pin female mic connector, like the 2 alkalines are setup now. There's no power switch on the mixer, so I'll be plugging in hot ---- hope the current surge doesn't pop the protection circuit, or else I'll be back to using alkalines again. I suppose one could make up a 12V sled of AAA batteries to jumpstart a Li-ion, though.........it would save having to search around for AC. I'll let you know if this works for me......

I wish I had a picture, but I took a 9v battery and wired a plug that fits into the "charger" jack on my LiOn's. It works like a charm to get them going again when they shut down. I have found that they shut down when hit with a big load or a direct short. The 9v battery trick works in the field, when you don't have an AC outlet to use. I have also thought about just making a jumper between the two LiOn's I have. That way I could use one battery to re-start the other, but more important and useful, I would be able to keep one going if the other is getting depleted by passing the 9v from the good one into the "charger" jack of the depleted one.

capnhook · « **Reply #51 on:** January 15, 2007, 07:37:30 PM »

Quote from: Chuck on January 15, 2007, 06:26:52 PM

Quote from: capnhook on January 09, 2007, 02:02:09 AM

I got a new pair of these Li-ion 9V rechargeables to maybe replace the 2-9V alkaline power supply I use to power my NAK MX-100 mixer. Gonna hack the cables tomorrow and solder the ends into a 4-pin female mic connector, like the 2 alkalines are setup now. There's no power switch on the mixer, so I'll be plugging in hot ---- hope the current surge doesn't pop the protection circuit, or else I'll be back to using alkalines again. I suppose one could make up a 12V sled of AAA batteries to jumpstart a Li-ion, though.........it would save having to search around for AC. I'll let you know if this works for me......

I wish I had a picture, but I took a 9v battery and wired a plug that fits into the "charger" jack on my LiOn's. It works like a charm to get them going again when they shut down. I have found that they shut down when hit with a big load or a direct short. The 9v battery trick works in the field, when you don't have an AC outlet to use. I have also thought about just making a jumper between the two LiOn's I have. That way I could use one battery to re-start the other, but more important and useful, I would be able to keep one going if the other is getting depleted by passing the 9v from the good one into the "charger" jack of the depleted one.

Good one, Chuck! Nice to know a 9V will reset it.........+t

gratefulphish · « **Reply #52 on:** January 16, 2007, 12:01:38 AM »

Quote from: Chuck on January 15, 2007, 06:26:52 PM

I have also thought about just making a jumper between the two LiOn's I have. That way I could use one battery to re-start the other, but more important and useful, I would be able to keep one going if the other is getting depleted by passing the 9v from the good one into the "charger" jack of the depleted one.

Can you simultaneously charge and use the Wally batteries this way? Can you have the AC adapter plugged in and still get power out?

SparkE! · « **Reply #53 on:** January 16, 2007, 04:21:02 PM »

Quote from: gratefulphish on January 16, 2007, 12:01:38 AM

Can you simultaneously charge and use the Wally batteries this way? Can you have the AC adapter plugged in and still get power out?

No, doesn't work. As soon as you plug in the charger, it shuts off the regulated output from the battery pack.

Chuck · « **Reply #54 on:** January 16, 2007, 04:41:33 PM »

Oh, well...