Topic: AKG Blueline Active Cable mod (step by step pictorial)

[igene]

I'm starting the post with just a few shots of the before and after,
and to have a place for the big mod post to go.
I'm just getting the whistle wet so to speak.
(It's a big post, and will take some time to compose...)








Trying a suspended OMNI spread (w/ A91's*) for max coverage in a small area, and possibly some stereo separation as well...


* thanks anodyne33 for the one on the right.

[kirk97132]

It makes me cringe to see a cable that you can't buy anymore cut down

[Brian Skalinder]

Is this to enable running the caps without the bodies, direct from a Tiny/Little Box or some such?

[igene]

It makes me cringe to see a cable that you can't buy anymore cut down

Would you rather I soldered to just the cap, and used duct tape to hold it on ? 

The cables were damaged, and needed repair.
I took the opportunity to improve them.
I think they will function better, last longer, and be used more in this configuration 

story >
I bought the cables from someone here on TS, one was bad.
I sent it out and had it repaired. I think I paid around $100. for the repair.
They sat in a box and got moved around a few times, I never used them.
I needed the cables for a job, so I took them out and tested them.
They both had issues. Unbelievable.
So rather than pay again, and possibly have the same issue - I did the mod !

Brian-
Yes, these can be power by anything from a CA-9100 (me) to a tinybox...
even with XLR power adapters (I believe) for a preamp w/ 48V output.
I havn't tried that yet, but I don't see why not.

[Brian Skalinder]

these can be power by anything from a CA-9100 (me) to a tinybox...
even with XLR power adapters (I believe) for a preamp w/ 48V output.

If ever there was a worthy cause for hacking an out of production piece, this is it!  Looks great.

[igene]

This needed to be done if not only to improve the cable.
The crappy thin cable AKG used gets damaged VERY easily.

The new cable is almost twice as thick, and well protected with the outer rubber coating.
(it's Audio-Technica Unipoint cable, possibly made by Mogami)

comparison >

[willndmb]

i think this was a great upgrade
EVERYONE i heard of having issues with these cables knew or believed it had to do with the "cheap" cable used by akg
i heard/read over and over about how you had to be so careful wrapping it up and such

[kirk97132]

First off why take it as a criticism of what you are doing...eh whatever... So the capsule takes 48volts?  Interesting
 

[illconditioned]

I did the hardwire mod.  I just took the capsule apart, soldered "standard" AT853 wire inside, and put heatshrink on the outside.  I've done this to three sets of capsules, two since sold.  I've got one set (CK93) here remaining.

My motivation was the cheap price of the capsules alone (approx $250 each, as low as $80 each on Ebay from a rental company).  This allows you to avoid the cost of both the bodies and the cables.  Unlike other so-called "active cables", there is nothing in there but wire and connectors.  The capsules themselves are electret, and the FET is inside the capsule.  A standard "3-wire" battery box will power them.

Enjoy your work, Igene.  You'll never worry about the cables again.

 Richard

PS: I recall someone here was looking for the cable parts.  Not sure when "end", but they were trying to connect a CK97 (lavalier) capsule IIRC.

[igene]

... So the capsule takes 48volts?  Interesting

They will work with XLR power adapters.
So that's not 48V, I think it's more like 9 -16V.
(not exactly sure)
someone correct me if I'm wrong.


I have a set of Audix XLR>minXLR adapters.
It works with them.

I just did a test. Works great !

V2 (Phantom ON) > Audix APS-910 adapters > AKG mod cables* / CK-91's
Dicks pick's # 10 on the stereo. That's a great recording...

*I need a name for these...

You can see the levels are set average on the pre, and little bit higher on the HP amp. (HP #1 output)
It was pretty loud, full and real clear !
I can't wait to use these.

[kirk97132]

So you cannot run 48volts to the capsules? sSo then this is just substituting Audix phantom power adapters for the SE300 bodies?  Using the phantom power adapters is better than the SE300 bodies?  I guess I'm confused but wouldn't you be better off still using the se300 bodies you had rather than eliminating them for plain phantom power adapters?

[igene]

The benefit is the small caps (w/ connector body) that can now be used for stealth, or a smaller T-bar setup for less weight in the air.
Also, they can now be used w/ 9V battery boxes, and small preamps (CA-9100, CA-9200 for example) that provide 9V
to the capsule making it much more versatile in it's use's.
If you are running a preamp that provides 48V phantom, you use the adapters to run this setup.
Before, you were stuck ONLY using an XLR connection to 48V phantom supply. Now you can do both.
The AKG's never needed 48V to run properly in the first place (only like 18V max)

This setup works on many levels...
Besides, they don't sound much different (if at all) w/o the preamp body.
You'd have to ask someone else why this is true.

[OOK]

Dude that is a slick set up T+............

[ashevillain]

In one picture you have the red going into the right channel of the V2 and the next you have the mics set up with the red on the left. 

Sorry, just messing with ya...I know it was just a test.

This whole setup looks good. I'd guess there is probably a minimal sonic difference between running the SE300B bodies vs. phantom power adapters...

[F.O.Bean]

Dude that is a slick set up T+............

[igene]

OK...
What I'm going to do here is > first upload all the photos documenting the mod process.
(it's a lot of pics, believe me)
Then slowly during the week I'm going to add words/ descriptions to them.
It's going to take a while, but this is the fastest and easiest way for me.

please be patient.

thanks.

[igene]

START HERE >

Cables in their original state >

Use a pair of thin nose needle nose pliers, turn counter clockwise (unscrew)


If it's in there tight, use some sort of non-marring clamp to hold the body (manfrotto nano clamp used here)

[igene]

[igene]

Here's what needs to come out. It's in there pretty good.

It's being held in by a stiff wire under a bit of pressure. Here you can see the tip of it pushing down on the connection.

Pry it out slowly with a small jewelers screwdriver...

Then just cut the wire...

[igene]

notice the hole is large on the inside...

but not so big on the outside...the new cable is wider...

My new cable is 1/8", so I'm going to work my way up to that size...starting w/ 3/32's

[igene]

then 7/64th's...

then finally 1/8th"

Here's the back of the inside connector w/ the protective plastic cover still on

[igene]

1/8" wire and 1/8" hole (nice and neat) Test it to make sure it fits right.

[igene]

Measure the distance from the back of the connector plain to the grounding ferrel. It's a 1/2". Very important !


cut off the shrink tubing

start removing wires and sliding the ferrel off

[igene]

take the back cover off (now that the wires are gone) and make a note of the way it goes back on

Here the connection you'll be soldering to. Get real familiar with it. Look at it with magnifying glasses to see the connection up close.

[igene]

here's the grounding ferrel

Take it off and put it in a safe place for later (don't lose it or you're screwed)

[igene]

Lace the new mic cable through the body


Lace on the protective cover. Make double sure it's facing the right way (not backwards) You'll hate yourself later if you screw this up.

Insert a jewelers screwdriver under the sheathing, but over the grounding braid, then use a razor blade to slice it.
This way you don't cut the thin copper wire.

[igene]

WALLY ! your wire is free...

Make sure you've got at least an inch out. Cut the sheathing carefully to not slice or cut the copper ground AT ALL !  neatly too

Use your screwdriver to slowly and carefully un-braid the ground wire

Peel back the foil, and carefully cut it off (don't cut that ground wire)

Twist the ground wire up tight, and cut off the other pair of wires close to the sheathing (leaving 2 different color conductors)
 Don't mess this up either.
You need 2 different colors for easier identification later. Don't try to do this with 2 sets of wires twisted together.
It's WAY too much wire to be able to solder to the connector. Believe me - I tried...What a mess. DON'T GO THERE !

[igene]

Now carefully (using the screwdriver method)
Cut back enough sheathing to fit the ferel, so the 4 wires and foil are just to the lip of the ferrel

slide on the ferrel to measure the fit

Slide it back off a bit exposing the braided ground

This part needs to be done quickly so you don't melt wires and do damage !!!
With a good soldering iron, HOT, quickly melt a spot of solder near the area where the top of the ferrel will sit.
NOT TOO MUCH !!!
2 REASONS >
1. the ferrel won't fit back on
2. too much also means too much heat and you've melted the thin sheathing on the conductors.

It should look like this when you are done.
Why did you just do this you ask ?
Because you are prepping the wire to solder inside the ferrel for a better SOLID connection for the ground.
The tiny bit of solder will melt and bond when you are soldering in the next step.

[igene]

Slide the ferrel back in place. Tight up against the sheathing.

With the wire facing up (gravity holding the ferrel in place against the sheathing) melt some solder onto the grounding braid near the ferrel
right above the spot your previous solder was melted on to insure it melts quickly. You need decent heat to do this.
Melt some solder in place, wait a second, then start blowing on it to cool it down.
After 4 - 5 seconds, lay it on the table, grab the ferrel in some Channel locks to dissipate heat (like a heat sink) to minimize damage to the thin conductor sheathing.
VERY IMPORTANT> YOU NEED TO DO THIS STEP. Read this (and really get it) BEFORE you do this step.
If you don't get it right, you'll have major issues later !!!


Your finished soldering should look something like this.
Just a spot, not too much. Enough to hold it and melt the solder inside.

[igene]

Shot of the Channel Locks grabbing the ferrel to cool it.
(I took the shot after, moving way too fast to take it during)
You should actually grab it better than the shot shows

cut off a piece of shrink tubing and slide it on. Remember, you need 1/2" from connector to protective plate, so 3/8" is enough.

heat it up and shrink it !

[igene]

Measure to find out what you've got. Is it about 1/2" with some copper exposed.
When you tin /solder the wires, the tubing will shrink back a bit more.
so 3/8" of tubing with 1/8" copper for the ground wire is great


Tin up your wires, and cut them back. The yellow (2nd wire to be soldered) should be a little shorter as shown.
The red / hot lead can be the same length. Leave enough tinned wire to wrap around the center pin when you solder.

Leave a bit of extra solder on the leads. I actually left too much on the yellow, and ended up taking it of later.
It's actually easier to hot wipe some solder with your iron, than to add some more later...

[igene]

Bend the leads on the ground and the yellow coated wire to right angles.
It will be in the correct position to solder to the connector. Leave the RED lead straight.


Secure your connector in some sort of holding /clamping device (NOT TOO TIGHT) do not deform the connector.
Position for best access to solder. Test with your soldering iron what the best access postion would be without heating or soldering (YET)

Line up the ground to the bottom contact, and solder it on QUICK.
You must have a Decent quality soldering iron with a good thin sharp tip.
Otherwise don't bother, you'll destroy the part, and you can't get another one !
Not so fast that you have a cold solder connection...liquidy shiny solder...but get out the second you are done, and blow on it to cool.
Don't move the connection, or you'll have to re-do it. You don't want that. The more you heat this plastic connector, the more likely you are to melt it.
IT MELTS REAL EASY !!!
Watch what your soldering iron is touching with the rest of the hot iron body. Don't brush it against the plastic, it will melt in a heartbeat !

Do the same for the next contact. Then wrap the HOT (RED) lead around the top contact point and solder it.
Then cut off the excess.
It should look something like this when you are done >

[igene]

Install the protective plastic cover, and you are ready to install the connector into the shell.
This is almost as difficult as the soldering (that was a real pain in the ass, NO ?)
You may need to flex the wire a bit with pliers, to be closer to the inside shell wall.
Line up the wire with the notched hole in the connector.
You know it lined up right because the outside tabs of the connector are lined up with the grooves inside the shell.
There's no real accurate advice here, you basically have to go slow (and don't yank out the connection you just soldered)
and slowly pull the wire from the bottom of the shell and line up the plastic body as it slowly slides into position.
(you may end up doing this 10X and yelling some as well...#$&@!##! POS...go in already...!)

[igene]

Holy shit...It's in !
Stop here, and go have a drink (or smoke) you deserve it !

Now when you come back with less agitation, line up your 2 washers (compression and flat)
FLAT goes in first, then the compression (the wavy one)

Then screw in the the last part, tighten it up, and you are done with this side.  WHEW !

[igene]

Time for the miniXLR. (Screwdriver method) strip back and expose some cable.

Get out your DMM and set it to continuity [the beeping sound : ) ]

cut the sheathing down, strip back the leads, and tone out the wires (TRS) from the other end.
Cut off the ones you don't need and twist up your ground, and you're ready for tinning.

Cut a piece of shrink tubing, shrink, pull back the sheathing, slide it under the sheath then push the sheathing over it as well (a neat tuck)
Solder and cut down the wires.
should look like this >

The New Neutrik/ REAN miniXLR connector >

[igene]

insert the back locking cap onto the cable


secure/support and tin the connector

[igene]

Solder up the connector as follows > Pin 1: shield(WHITE), Pin 2: Hot +(RED), Pin3: Cold (YELLOW)
colors refer to my cable, your colors may vary...
manage your shrink tubing as before... overlap your sheathing on the wires and tubing.
It should look something like his >



slide the body into the connector

[igene]

Screw it together and WOO-HOO - you're done !!!!







Now attach your capsule of choice and test it.
Good luck, I hope you didn't screw it up !
Should be perfect if you followed directions exactly.

If not, I'm not reviewing troubleshooting, you're on your own  :^(

[igene]

whew ! that's a lot to digest 
I'm done for the day.
That was almost as much work as the actual mod.

time for a 

[ArchivalAudio]

super F'ing cool!
very nice documentation

and those REAN - Neutrik Mini XLR's are sweet!

thank you very much!
--Ian

[F.O.Bean]

That was almost as much work as the actual mod.

That's what I was going to say

Nice work bro!

[OOK]

This got me thinking.  Dangerous I know.....   But we should have a modification sub category where people can document their mods to anything from mics to t-bars.... TS one stop shop, sort of a archive for DIY's.. 

Peace OOK

[DigiGal]

Thanks for the picture documentation of this project igene. 

BTW, I'd be interested in the original AKG connectors to the se300b mic bodies if you don't need them anymore.

[igene]

Digigal -

I'm actually saving them for another MOD in the future
(No wasted materials over here)
I'll be connecting some unknown mic elements to the SE300 bodies...

I don't know which I'll use, but I'd like to experiment with a bunch.
(don't know when...just > 'in the future...')

I was thinking about this as I was cutting off the ends.

Thanks.

[kirk97132]

Thanks for the picture documentation of this project igene. 

BTW, I'd be interested in the original AKG connectors to the se300b mic bodies if you don't need them anymore.

I can give you the list of part numbers for both the male and female ends...I was researching it before we "met".  The cost of the parts is extremely high IMO. 

[igene]

I'd just want the "FEMALE" end part number, and where you can get it, if you have that too.

(I know that post was initially directed at Digigal)

thanks.

[igene]

I was going to take my time adding all the explanations, but once I got started, I had to complete it.






I want to thank John Muir (RIP) as a footnote...
Who forever changed the way I see, and explain a process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir_%28Volkswagen%29
I owned an air-cooled VW bus for 10 years, and read his book like a bible.
Couldn't have made it that long without it.

[kirk97132]

All parts available through AKG.

[illconditioned]

^^ This microphone is very nicely built, with quality components.  What I don't understand is why it does not sound better.  In particular, while the frequency response and polar pattern appear to be very good, it just does not seem to have as much "detail" as many other mics.  It is too bad, since many other electret mics, including the original CK1x, and DPA for that matter, all sound better.

 Richard

[Javier Cinakowski]

Just stopped in to say that might be the best DIY instruction I have ever seen here.  Great job man!  Good luck on your recordings...
 

[OOK]

^^ This microphone is very nicely built, with quality components.  What I don't understand is why it does not sound better.  In particular, while the frequency response and polar pattern appear to be very good, it just does not seem to have as much "detail" as many other mics.  It is too bad, since many other electret mics, including the original CK1x, and DPA for that matter, all sound better.

 Richard

The thing I always have to remember is everyone hears slightly different.  What you may not like, someone else will rave about it.  The way you feel about these mics is the way I feel about schoeps.   I used to hate the sound of neumann, now I love them. I prefer the sound of MBHO, most don't and Microtech Gefels get me hot! I actually like the Blue line series... but when its all said and done we all hear a little differently...

Peace OOK

[newplanet7]

The thing I always have to remember is everyone hears slightly different.  What you may not like, someone else will rave about it.  The way you feel about these mics is the way I feel about schoeps.   I used to hate the sound of neumann, now I love them. I prefer the sound of MBHO, most don't and Microtech Gefels get me hot! I actually like the Blue line series... but when its all said and done we all hear a little differently...
Peace OOK

Well put sir.

EDIT: With that said I agree with richard.

[jbell]

I'd be interested to hear a comp. of this setup using phantom adapters into a pre vs. running them with the se300b bodies into a pre.

[OOK]

EDIT: With that said I agree with richard.

 

[igene]

If someone can please find me another set of these cables
(broken/damaged wire is fine w/ good connectors)
and I'll make up another modded set, and do a simultaneous comparison recording.
SE300 VS. XLR adapters.

I'm not looking for FREE, but cheap is preferred.

 

I want to make another set w/ longer cables (~15 - 16').
These are only 6' long.

[DigiGal]

All parts available through AKG.

Thanks for the PDF's Kirkd...

Pricing is surely overly inflated on these parts but good to know they still have parts and to see the reference info.

[kirk97132]

but cheap is preferred.

If you are thinking of buying parts from AKG then cheap is not gonna happen

[kirk97132]

All parts available through AKG.

Thanks for the PDF's Kirkd...

Pricing is surely overly inflated on these parts but good to know they still have parts and to see the reference info.

You're welcome.  Overly inflated is an understatement.  The parts prices make the $300 list for the extension cables seem cheap.

[newplanet7]

EDIT: With that said I agree with richard.

 

I agree with you on the "we all hear different things".
I ran the se300 and definitely liked them. I do dig the MBHO sound and think it's under-used.
I also didn't like Noymans but changed my tune when I realized that what I was looking for was detail.

[igene]

Just stopped in to say that might be the best DIY instruction I have ever seen here.  Great job man!  Good luck on your recordings...
 

Thanks for the compliment, I worked real hard to make this happen.

I had to do the mod and take pictures each step of the way (making sure the shots were good)
Some of the pics were hard to take as I was focusing at macro distances and the DOF was real short.
Then edit each foto (crop and color correct as needed) then upload to photobucket.
THEN > 1 picture at a time get the hosting information and make a list in wordpad (in correct order)
for posting to TS. Then when the pics were posted, insert all the explanations and remove redundant shots.
It took a really long time... I'm glad it's done !