Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: whatboutbob on May 06, 2006, 05:40:13 PM
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* iriver H1xx Tapers FAQ *
* 2006 July 11 - v0.89 (beta) *
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[/pre]I have flagrantly copied the format and vast swathes of content from Brian Skalinder’s NJB3 FAQ (thanks Brian!). I gathered other data from rockbox.org, misticriver.net, taperssection.com and iriver.com.
Please note that this is very much a beta version of the FAQ. Rockbox is only officially releasing their firmware to iriver very soon (~June '06). I’m posting what I’ve got to date for constructive criticism, and to see if there’s anything y’all want me to add/embellish/delete/fix.
For legal purposes, I, nor taperssection.com, can be held responsible for any damage caused to your player by following the information/instructions included in this thread. I will make an effort to keep all the information up to date, but it may become outdated at times. Additionally, particularly during beta, it may contain errors. </legal mumbo jumbo>
BTW, in my opinion, if you get a single decent recording out of the H1xx, you owe it largely to the developers behind Rockbox. They do it for the thrill of it, but why not throw them some beer money as a thank-you? I've put my money where my mouth is. Will you?: http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/DonatedMoney
/guilt-trip
TOC
[000] Intro / Firmware…
[010] I'm a little confused about how all this stuff works, generally, much less specifics about the iriver H1xx. Where should I start?
[020] I've heard the iriver isn't very useful for taping. Is this true?
[030] So what is this alternative Rockbox firmware?
[040] What are the recording pros and cons of the rockboxed iriver H1xx v. DAT or MD?
[050] What are the non-recording pros and cons of the Rockbox firmware?
[060] Will installing Rockbox void the iriver warranty?
[070] How do I install / uninstall Rockbox?
[080] So now Rockbox is installed, what are all these settings?!
[081] Recording Settings
[082] Peak Meter Settings
[083] Other useful settings for tapers
[084] What happened to the other Recording Settings, such as Channels and Freq?
[085] So now that everything is configured, how do I record with this thing?
[086] Does the remote add noise to recordings?
[100] Hardware…
[110] With what size hard drive does the H1xx come?
[120] How many hours of recordings will fit on the iriver drives?
[130] Is there a difference between the iHP-1xx and the H1xx?
[140] Can I use any battery charger with my player, because my nokia charger fits?!
[150] For how long does the internal battery record?
[160] Does it supply plug-in power?
[170] Does using the remote introduce interference?
[200] Optical Recording…
[210] Does optical recording work with Rockbox?
[220] I heard the iriver supports 24-bit recording, is this true?
[230] Does it support up to 96 kHz sample rates?
[240] What kind of cables/adapters do I need to run digital-in from an outboard ADC?
[250] My stereo mini or optical mini connector doesn't quite fit properly in the female mini jack, what can I do?
[300] In the field…
[310] Do I have to use an outboard ADC?
[320] Can I run my mics or the soundboard directly into my iriver?
[330] What kind of cables do I need to run analog-in from mics or soundboard?
[340] Since I'm running analog-in to my iriver, how do I set my recording levels?
[350] What’s this about a clipping light?
[360] Is there a time or file size limit when recording?
[370] Can I lock the buttons when I'm recording so I don't flub and press one accidentally?
[380] Can I still use the backlight when the buttons are locked?
[390] If I run out of power will the iriver shut down gracefully, saving my recording?
[400] Mods…
[410] Is it possible to change / upgrade the internal battery?
[420] Where can I buy another internal battery?
[430] What about external power?
[440] Is it possible to upgrade or replace the H1xx hard drive?
[450] So how do I replace / upgrade the HDD?
[460] Can I use an Apple hdd in my iriver?
[500] Misc…
[510] Do I need to do any regular maintenance?
[520] How often should I do regular maintenance (i.e. format the drive)?
[530] Why is Rockbox saying my drive is full when it really isn't?
[540] How do I connect my iriver to my computer for transferring recordings?
[550] My recorded file is xxx MB, but my audio software says it is 0:00 minutes long. How do I fix this?
[560] Can I use a different iriver model other than the H1xx to tape?
[570] I'm used to having or like to have physical backups of my recordings, but I can't do this with the iriver - what are my options?
[580] What other resources are there about the iriver?
[000] Intro…
[010] I'm a little confused about how all this stuff works, generally, much less specifics about the iriver H1xx. Where should I start?
In the Where To Begin forum, of course! (http://taperssection.com/index.php?board=46.0)
[020] I've heard the H1xx isn't very useful for taping. Is this true?
Yes and no. Taping with the original iriver firmware (think of it as an operating system for your computer, like Windows) is a frustrating affair; it drops samples, doesn't have peak meters, and one can't change gain on the fly. However there is an alternative firmware called Rockbox, which has addressed all of these issues, making the iriver a very handy recorder. As such, the majority of information in this FAQ regarding taping will assume installation of Rockbox.
[030] So what is this alternative Rockbox firmware?
Some rather clever and dedicated chaps over at rockbox.org have spent years developing an open-source alternative firmware for digital audio players. They originally wrote the Rockbox firmware for Archos Recorders, but have since begun porting it to other hardware, including, thankfully, the iriver H1xx and H3xx. The Rockbox firmware for the H1xx is still in beta, but "...is in an advanced state of development, has been extensively tested, and is fairly stable". The first official rockbox fw release for iriver H1xx (aka Rockbox 3.0) is due *very* shortly.
[040] What are the recording pros and cons of the rockboxed iriver H1xx v. DAT or MD?
Pros
* long run-time on internal batteries (up to 8 hrs with the standard battery, up to 16 hours with a higher capacity battery installed)
* small size: The H120 dimensions are 105mm×60mm×19mm
* discrete wired remote control (handy for stealthing, however it can cause interference - see [170])
* pre-recording: just wait for the band to come out and press record; the recording will include x seconds (configurable up to 30 seconds) of pre-recorded buffered data
* configurable clip light: backlight triggered when clipping is detected
* configurable accurate peakmeter:
* 2GB file size limit (3 hour 23 minute 44.1kHz WAV)
* seamless file-split after 2GB (so you don't miss a moment of the gig)
* no media!
* low cost (average price on ebay for a H120 is currently $150)
* easy and fast transfers to PC via USB < 10 min for a 3 hr recording via USB 2.0 v. real-time transfers for DAT or analog transfers for most MDs
* supports analog uncompressed WAV recording (16-bit, 44.1)
* supports optical spdif recording (16-bit, up to 96kHz)
* no ATRAC compression a la MD
* exact same ADC as the NJB3 with comparable quality to portable DATs (depends on how discerning your ears are, of course - also easily resolved by using an external ADC)
* similar line-in performance compared to portable DATs (again, depends on how discerning your ears are)
* holds theoretical max of 30+ hrs of recordings (great for festivals)
Cons
* Some effort and risk required to install rockbox to take full advantage of the iriver's recording abilities (though I am yet to see anyone who has broken their iriver by installing rockbox)
* Rockbox firmware not yet officially released (due for official release shortly)
* doesn't run on standard rechargable batteries (i.e. AA), requires specific LiON battery
* No lossy (ie mp3) recording (shouldn’t really be an issue for tapers)
* peakmeter and clip light do not function during disk writes (~10 seconds every minute)
[050] What are the non-recording pros and cons of the Rockbox firmware?
There is a far more comprehensive list available here (http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/FeatureComparison), however the highlights as I see them are:
Pros:
* Plays many more filetypes, including flac, shn and wavpack
* Longer battery life
* Customiseable 'While Playing Screen', fonts & themes
* True gapless playback
* Dual boot allows you to boot into iriver firmware if you so desire
* 5 Band Parametric Equalizer
* Faster boot time
* On the fly playlists
* More likely to be able to salvage a faulty hdd (see [060])
Cons:
* No wma playback (although this may be in the works)
* Will void warranty (See [060])
[060] Will installing Rockbox void the iriver warranty?
Answer taken from the rockbox FAQ (http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/IriverFAQ#Does_it_void_my_warranty_if_I_us ):
“Yes.
However, like many large companies, iriver tends to be lenient with warranty claims. So even if using Rockbox will technically void your warranty, quite probably the aftersale service won't cause any trouble. Of course, they can, but it is not really in their "commercial interest" to do so, and there is plenty of testimony from users who got their iriver replaced even if the issue was caused by misuse (example: hard drive dead due to a fall, or even LCD screen broken).
Quoting the mail user "Prooty" received from iriver, as posted in the Rockbox forum: "Due to the fact that you have taken on a “non-original” iriver Firmware, in this case the modified “rockbox” Firmware, the repair of the player is not covered by warranty."
Interestingly, with the Rockbox bootloader installed, you are more likely to be able to salvage a unit with a faulty hdd than without it. This is because the Rockbox bootloader will allow you to USB boot a unit with a corrupt or faulty hdd, whereas the iriver firmware will not. Rockbox has been working on the iriver for more than a year now. This author has been running Rockbox for 11 months now on a H120 and H140 without a major issue. The choice is yours.
[070] How do I install / uninstall Rockbox?
There are detailed instructions here: http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/ManualRockboxInstall#iriver_jukeboxes
It does take a few steps, but it is not rocket science.
Attn Mac owners: Installing the rockbox bootloader (a one-off task) will require a Windows machine or compiling some code on your own.
[080] So now Rockbox is installed, what are all these settings?!
Before you jump right in to recording, you'll need to get everything configured the way you want it. There are a few settings scattered around the different menus that are useful for tapers:
[081] Recording Settings
Navigate to this by clicking 'A-B' button > Recording > Recording settings.
In there you've currently got 6 options:
1) Source:
- Mic: The iriver's internal mic. Handy for recording lectures, but don't make the mistake of selecting this as your source for recording live music.
- Line In: For analog input.
- Digital: For...you guessed it...digital input
2) Time Split: Choose to auto-split a file after a selected period. Options vary between five minutes (00:05) and twenty-four hours (24:00). This option should not be confused with the 2GB auto-split, which happens by default and is not configurable.
3) Prerecord Time: Prerecord a selected period of time, up to 30 seconds, prior to when you press the record button. A very handy taping feature. Just set it to 30 seconds, go to the recording screen, wait for the band to make their way to stage and press record. No more missing the beginning of sets...unless of course you're at the bar. :-)
4) Directory: Choose to have all your recordings saved to the /recordings directory or 'current' directory (presumably the dir you're in when you click the 'A-B button).
5) Show Recording Screen on Startup: If set to on, the iriver will boot direct to the Recording Screen. Handy, but particularly while Rockbox is in beta, I like to double-check my settings.
6) Clipping Light: When clipping is detected, this setting triggers a selectable combination of main unit / remote backlight. Extremely useful. Detection is very accurate and sensitive, however this will not operate while data is being written to the hdd (when the little red light next to the joystick is on...about 10 - 13 seconds every ~3 mins). There are more options for this in the Peak Meter settings (see below).
[082] Peak Meter Settings
Now, you need to configure your Peak Meter. (click the 'A-B' Button > General Settings > Display > Peak Meter)
Your options are:
1) Peak Release: This determines how fast the bar shrinks when the music becomes softer. Lower values make the peak meter look smoother. Value range is 1 to 126..
2) Peak Hold Time: Specifies the time after which the peak indicator will reset. If you set this value to 5s, for example, then the peak indicator displays the loudest volume value that occurred within the last 5 seconds. Values are between between 200ms and a minute, or off. Paticularly for stealthing I like to set this to a minute so that I can check peaks at the end of a loud song and adjust gain accordingly.
3) Clip Hold Time: Controls how long a thick black line displays at the end of the peakmeter when clipping is detected. This also controls how long the clip light backlight displays (if enabled in recording settings). Options are between 1 second and eternal, or off. It is worth noting that the backlight does diminish battery life.
4) Scale: Choose from Logarithmic (dB) or Linear (%). dB makes more sense to me. :-)
5 & 6) Range: Set the range of your clip meter displays. I usually set them to -30dB & 0dB.
NB: The Peak Meter does not operate while the hard drive is being written to (~10-15 seconds every ~3 mins).
[083] Other useful settings for tapers...
There really are a lot of settings, so its worthwhile checking the manual ( http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/WikiManual ), but here's a couple more that you may find useful as a taper.
1) Idle Poweroff: Prevent your unit from powering off while you're waiting to press record by extending this. (Main > General Settings > System > Idle Poweroff)
2) LCD Display: Dampen your backlight and make the peakmeters stand out in a dark environment by inversing your display (Main > General Settings > Display > LCD (or Remote LCD) > LCD Mode > Inverse)
[084] What happened to the other Recording Settings, such as Channels and Freq?
The developers have cleaned out a few settings which previously existed, but did not work for or apply to the iriver. For example:
Quality: refers to mp3 recording quality for archos recorders. Rockbox on the iriver does not currently record to mp3.
Channels: Your choices are stereo, stereo, or stereo...so there's no option to select this.
Frequency: Optical frequency is auto-detected, and analog recording is only available at 44.1kHz, so this option has been removed. NB: 48kHz analog recording is not possible with the iriver, due to hardware limitations (no sufficient clock)
[085] So now that everything is configured, how do I record with this thing?
To record, you must navigate to the recording screen (click 'A-B' button > Recording > Recordinging Screen) & press the Rec button on the main unit, or the Play button on the remote.
Depending on which source you've selected you'll see different options. All sources will display the following information (from top to bottom...and there's a screenshot of the main unit line-in recording screen at the bottom of this post for reference):
Time: The time the recording has been running.
Size: The size of the recording
Peakmeter: Self explanatory, but you won't see any activity on this unless you've got a source plugged in.
Volume: Adjustable monitor volume (ie what you hear through your headphones). Not to be confused with gain. Adjustable between -84dB & 0dB.
Frequency: Automatically detected by rockbox
In addition to this, when line-in source is selected, you will see two additional lines below volume: Gain Left and Gain Right. These are adjustable in .5 dB steps, and both channels can be altered together, or indepently, depending on whether both lines are highlighted, or just one.
Two forms of gain are available; analog gain and digital decimation. Analog gain is available from 0dB to 24dB. Digital decimation is available from -64dB to 0dB and from 24dB to 48dB. The type of gain is clearly labeled with a (A) or (D) after the gain level.
To my untrained ears, digital decimation equates roughly to boosting in post production, so I'd avoid using it wherever possible. I've not made a thorough analysis of it however. Would anyone care to prove this belief?
Main unit Controls:
Scroll: Joystick up/down
Alter values: Joystick left/right
Record: Rec button
Remote Controls:
Scroll: Navi/Main scroll wheel left/right
Alter values: Rec scroll wheel left/right
Record: Play button
In addition to these controls, you may like to make use of the hold buttons on both the remote and main unit to prevent accidental button presses during recording. To further decrease this risk, I've put in a request to the rockbox developers to allow the play button on both the remote and main unit to override the hold buttons while on the recording screen to trigger the backlight safely.
For now, I've found flicking the hold switches off then on is the safest method of deliberately triggering the backlight.
[086] Does the remote add noise to recordings?
It can. Something that has just come to light is that some iriver units are not grounded correctly.
[100] Hardware…
[110] With what size hard drive does the H1xx come?
10, 15, 20 & 40 GB. The ‘xx’ in the H1xx signifies the size of the drive. For example the H120 has a 20GB hdd. Most people use H120's because they offer plenty of disk capacity, are much less expensive than the H140, and slightly thinner. The H110 and H115 were the initial models released and are not very common. Note: HD manufacturers do not label hard drive size properly. Most HD manufacturer labelling uses an incorrect definition of a megabyte: 1 MB = 1,000,000 bytes, instead of the correct 1 MB = 1,048,576 bytes.
[120] How many hours of recordings will fit on the iriver drives?
The iriver supports 16-bit recording at either 44.1 kHz or 48 kHz sample rates. We know from the archives the bit-depth and sample-rates take up the following amount of HD space:
Bit-Depth Sample Rate (kHz) MB Per stereo-track-minute
16 44.1 10
16 48.0 11
Just do the math. For example, at CD quality (16-bit, 44.1kHz) using the H120 and recording in stereo (two tracks, left and right):
20GB = 20,000 MB *
20,000 MB / 10 MB/stereo-track-minute = 2,000 minutes
2,000 minutes / 60 minutes = 33.33 hours
* HD manufacturers do not label hard drive size properly. Most HD manufacturer labelling uses an incorrect definition of a megabyte: 1 MB = 1,000,000 bytes, instead of the correct 1 MB = 1,048,576 bytes.
You likely won't get 100% efficiency out of your hard drive, and the 20GB also stores some system files, so...you won't quite be able to utilize the full 34.13 hrs or hard drive space, but you get the idea: LOTS of space! (FWIW, 16-bit/48kHz gets you a theoretical max of 31.03 hrs.)
[130] Is there a difference between the iHP-1xx and the H1xx?
Nope. Hewlett Packard forced iriver to change the name of the product. There’s no physical difference.
[140] Can I use any battery charger with my player, because my Nokia charger fits?
Warning: By far the most common method of killing irivers is by people using the wrong charger. This fries the circuitry, rendering the H1xx useless. Nokia chargers in particular are the scourge of iriver owners everywhere. All it takes is a minute of absent-mindedness, and your toy is dead. My recommendation is to clearly label your iriver charger and to use only that charger, and checking it every single time you go to plug in the charger.
If you truly must use another charger, ensure it converts line voltage to 5VDC at 2 Amps, tip (+), ring (-) (there’s an image demonstrating this on the back of the iriver).
[150] For how long does the internal battery record?
A single new internal battery runs ~8 hrs recording time. Lithium batteries do degrade, so depending on use, you will see this decrease over an extended period of time (months rather than days).
It is also possible to replace the internal battery with a higher-capacity battery initially produced for the 1st and 2nd generation iPods. These batteries are available up to 2200mAh, almost doubling the recording time. See below for installation instructions.
[160] Does it provide plug-in power to power electret condenser mics?
Yes. The iriver provides 2.5v of plug-in power (1v more than most mini-discs I believe), which allows it to power electret condenser mics such as dpa-4061s or at853s (terminating in a stereo mini-plug of course) without the need of a battery box. However, providing external power such as that provided by a battery box will likely improve dynamic range and spl handling of such mics.
[170] Does using the remote introduce interference?
Yes. It seems on most units that having the remote plugged in during recording does introduce a ticking noise, which is only really noticeable when amplified. For example, with no gain the extra noise is about 3dB. So if you're using an external pre the issue is moot. However if using the iriver's pre at quiet gigs for a lot of gain (eg about 30dB), you may notice the extra noise.
[200] Optical Recording…
[210] Does optical recording work with Rockbox?
Yes! As of May 12, code enabling optical recording has been committed to cvs, so henceforth it will be available for download in the standard rockbox daily builds: http://www.rockbox.org/daily.shtml
Just click on 'Latest' under your iriver target (most likely the iriver h120/h140). You may also need to download fonts as a once-off (available from the same page) and copy the /fonts directory into your iriver /.rockbox directory.
Please note:
1) More testing is required on optical recording. Everything I tested seemed pretty stable, but there are a lot of variables/conditions I can't test (eg sample-rates > 44.1kHz). If you've got the hardware and time, your assistance with this process would be appreciated. Please report any bugs you find to: http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2575.105 (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2575.105).
2) If you have not yet installed rockbox, you'll need to load the bootloader first. For more details see [070] 'How do I install Rockbox?'.
3) For those that have been testing the optical recording patch, you no longer need to enable spdif out for recording to work. That's now done automagically when you enter the recording screen with source set to 'digital'.
4) Your sample-rate should automagically be detected, so there's no longer an option to select sample-rate (which never worked anyways).
5) Optical out should now also work perfectly during recording, so digital daisy-chaining is possible.
6) There's currently one known minor bug with the code: the source setting doesn't always save to digital when you shut the unit down. It can default to 'mic'...so be sure to check your source setting otherwise you'll be taping using the iriver internal microphone.
[220] I heard the iriver supports 24-bit recording, is this true?
Nope. The iriver is currently only a 16-bit recording and playback device. If fed a 24-bit digital signal, the iriver will still only record and playback a 16-bit signal by simply truncating the last 8 bits. Theoretically the rockbox developers have confirmed that it may be possible for the hardware to record 20-bits, but it would require a major refactor of the rockbox recording (and possibly playback) code, so its highly doubtful it will happen any time soon.
[230] Does it support up to 96 kHz sample rates?
It should, but due to freshness of the optical recording changes, no one has yet confirmed bit accuracy at 96kHz. However, bit perfection has been confirmed at 88.2kHz. Volunteer testers welcomed.
[240] What kind of cables/adapters do I need to run digital-in from an outboard ADC?
Remember - while most digital format converters or optical output devices use a standard toslink optical connector, the iriver takes a mini optical connector so you may need a toslink/mini adapter. Some commonly used optical cables and adapters:
* Sound Pros SP-TMOC-RA toslink right-angle to mini right-angle cable (http://www.soundprofessionals.com)
* MCM 1M Toslink to 3.5mm mini optical cable right angle: http://www.mcminone.com/
* SonicWave DTOSGOC01 1m glass optical cable (available at http://www.cablesamerica.com)
* Phoenix Gold DTX-910 optical cable (available at http://www.partsexpress.com)
* Acoustic Research Pro II optical cable (available at http://www.partsexpress.com)
* Dayton Audio optical cable (available at http://www.partsexpress.com)
* Velocity DTOS35RA toslink - mini right-angle adapter (available at http://www.cablesamerica.com)
* Velocity DTOSRAA toslink - toslink right-angle adapter (available at http://www.cablesamerica.com)
[250] My stereo mini or optical mini connector doesn't quite fit properly in the female mini jack, what can I do?
Some users report poor results from stereo mini or optical mini connectors that don't quite fit properly in the female mini jack, usually because the remote connector is preventing the optical mini connector from clicking in properly, due to its close proximity. Low levels, mono signal, drop-outs, etc., may all be symptoms of this problem. To ensure you don't have this problem, make sure your mini connector clicks firmly into the female mini jack. Unless the mini connector clicks firmly into the female mini jack, you may encounter this problem in the field. This is often because the remote plugs in sits very close to the optical in. There are at least three solutions:
* Buy a different stereo or optical mini plug and see if it fits better
* Remove (unplug) the remote
* If your optical mini connector is made of rubber (such as the MCM cable above), it is possible to shave off one side of the connector
[300] In the field…
[310] Do I have to use an outboard ADC?
You don't have to, but you'll generally achieve signicantly better results if you do. While the iriver isn't terrible, it's not all that great, either (depending on how discerning your ears are). There's a reason it's such an inexpensive device: they had to cut corners somewhere. Two popular outboard pre/ADCs for the iriver are the Denecke AD-20 / Zefiro Inbox and the Edirol UA-5. Inexpensive (relatively speaking), easily powered in the field, and significant sound quality improvements over the iriver’s analog inputs and ADC. There are plenty of other options as well, but the AD-20/Inbox and UA-5 are two great lower cost starter pre/ADCs which will improve sound quality significantly.
[320] Can I run my mics or the soundboard directly into my iriver?
Sure. Just need to make sure you [1] have a hot enough signal to run line-in, and [2] have the proper connectors to get the analog signal into your iriver’s stereo mini connector.
[330] What kind of cables do I need to run analog-in from mics or soundboard?
Mics may have any number of analog outputs - the key is converting the mics' (or battery box's, or preamp's) output connectors to a 3.5mm stereo jack. There are inexpensive adapters to convert to the iriver’s 3.5mm stereo jack from just about any connector type. See below for some examples.
Soundboards may have any number of analog outputs: usually XLR, RCA, or 1/4" mono, and occasionally 1/4" stereo headphone outputs. The adapters or cables you need will depend on the input connector for your ADC/recording device.
For example, many folks will run the soundboard patch directly into a device with a 3.5mm female stereo connector (e.g. Sony portables, NJB3). So, you need to [1] take XLR, RCA, and 1/4" feeds and convert them to a 3.5mm stereo male connector, and [2] provide some length of cable run to get your gear out of the way of the sound engineer. Two ways to do this:
Option 1 - adapters + cable run
[2] RCA male | RCA male 6' cable run
[2] RCA female | RCA female barrel
[2] XLR female | RCA female adapter
[2] 1/4" female | RCA male adapter
2 x RCA female | 3.5mm stereo adapter
Option 2 - input-specific adapters
2 x RCA female | 3.5mm stereo adapter
2 x XLR female | 3.5mm stereo adapter
2 x 1/4" female | 3.5mm stereo adapter
The problem with option 2 is if you want a cable run to support all three input-specific adapters, you'll have to carry around a separate cable run for RCA, XLR and 1/4" connectors - that's a lot of cable runs to schlep around, IMO.
[340] Since I'm running analog-in to my iriver, how do I set my recording levels?
Use either your preamp or the iriver itself to adjust and your iriver to monitor the recording levels. The iriver level meters are very accurate and the range is user-configurable, however the meters do not operate during buffer writes (about 10 seconds every minute).
[350] What’s this about a clipping light?
The iriver has a user-configurable clipping light which can be triggered when clipping is detected. It is very sensitive, however it does not function during buffer-writes (when the red lcd next to the joystick is on). It can be configured to light up the remote, the main unit, or both.
[360] Is there a time or file size limit when recording?
The file size limit is 2GB. If this limit is reached, the file is saved and another file starts recording seamlessly, with no action required.
[370] Can I lock the buttons when I'm recording so I don't flub and press one accidentally?
There’s a slide switch on both the main unit and remote that you can switch to lock the separate units.
[380] Can I still use the backlight when the buttons are locked?
Unfortunately not. The safest way the author has found to view the backlight is to flick the hold switch off then on. A request for this function has been made to the rockbox developers, however it is understandably not seen as a high priority.
[390] If I run out of power while recording, will the iriver shut down gracefully, saving the recording?
If the battery runs out of power, the iriver may or may not shut down gracefully, saving your recording. Users have reported mixed results with auto-saving the recording when the internal battery dies. If the iriver does not shut down gracefully, it is usually possible to salvage the recording up until the last buffer write, with a combination of chkdsk /f and Kuba’s handy wav header repair utility: http://www.fi.muni.cz/~xvanek4/repair/repair.zip
After running chkdsk /f on your iriver, unzip Kuba’s app to the same dir as your file then from the command prompt run: Repair <filename> <filesize>
[400] Mods…
[410] Is it possible to change / upgrade the internal battery?
Yes. This requires opening the case. The original Li-ion battery that ships with the iriver is 1300mAh. You can choose to replace it with a similar capacity battery, or upgrade up to 2200mAh. All you’ll need is a torx T5 wrench and some time..
There are handy pictorial walkthroughs here (http://www.misticriver.net/wiki/index.php/H1xx_Internal_Battery_Replacement) and here (http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html).
Important: Please note that ipods have reversed polarity from irivers, so if you use an “ipod battery” you’ll need to reverse the battery wires at the molex connector.
Warning: Before you swap your battery, I must insist you watch these two videos:
Video 1 (http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~gdodds/rcstuff/movies/lipofire_1.wmv)
Video 2 (http://www.helihobby.com/videos/LithiumBattery.wmv)
I'm not trying to scare you, but you must be made aware of the risks of a damaged/incorrectly installed battery. At least one person over at misticriver.net has reported that his battery swelled and destroyed his iriver. Having said that, many people have done this mod with no issues (myself included, several times over).
In addition to the info in the walkthroughs, here are a couple of tips I've found handy replacing my iriver batteries:
Once again (its worth repeating), if you're using an ipod battery, do not forget to reverse the wires. With the molex flaps on top, the red wire should go in the left side of the connector, the black in the right.
The most difficult part of this process is pulling the original battery's molex connector out of the board because the dc connector sits right behind it, which doesn't leave you with much wiggle room. I suggest, use a tiny flat-headed screwedriver to pull the connector out as far as you can, then use the same screwdriver to gently apply upward pressure to one of the bottom corners of the connector. Just be careful not to touch the board with the screwdriver - you shouldn't need to touch the board at all with it.
To make it easier to get the new battery molex connector into the board, you may like to carefully shave off the bottom 'lip' of the molex connector with a razor to make it easier to slide in.
I didn't notice, but hyperplane mentioned the molex connector on the original battery has a smaller lip so it might be easier to transfer that onto the new battery.
Once you're done transferring the batteries, you might like to wipe down the inside of the iriver screen with a soft cloth (i use the cloth that i use to clean my prescription glasses). Dust inside the screen is really irritating.
When you're putting everything back together, ensure the hold switch nestles into its notch, otherwise it won't work. You'll see what I mean when you're there.
[420] Where can I buy another internal battery?
Most folks seem to pick them up from EBay for ~$20. The specific model I’ve installed in multiple units with no hitches is the UP325385A4H. These are typically advertised as 1st and 2ns gen ipod 2200mAh batteries.
Interestingly, this exact battery model is now selling at my local Radioshack equivalent in Australia...so you may like to try Radioshack before hitting up ebay.
[430] What about external power?
Lots of options for external DC power. The iriver runs on 5v external power, tip (+), ring (-). Only catch is there aren't really any batteries out there that natively provide 5v of power. Soooo...best bets are to take a battery which provides more than 5v of power and [1] regulate its output to 5v, or [2] build a battery pack which outputs ~5v.
[1] Regulate output to 5v
Popular options which output more than 5v are sealed lead acid (SLA) and RC batteries. SLAs are readily available in both 12v and 6v output. RC batteries are typically 7.2v or 9.6v. For the 6v SLAs, it may be possible to wire two diodes in-line on the hot wire to drop it down to 5v. For the 12v SLA and 7.2v/9.6 RC batteries, two main ways to drop the voltage: [1] with a 7805 voltage regulator and heat sink, and [2] with a iriver/third-party car adapter which supports 5v output.
[2] Build 5v battery pack
A couple people have had success building ~5v battery packs out of 4 x 1.2v NiMH cells. Fully charged NiMH cells will put out ~1.4v each, so this pack will deliver around 5.6v fully charged - which is a bit too high for the iriver, outside it's operating voltage specs. If you run it with a slightly too high voltage, you may lock up the iriver which will require resetting it by pressing the reset button on the bottom with a paper clip or toothpick. If the voltage is a little high, run the batts for a few minutes on another device (e.g. small light bulb) to drain the battery which will reduce the output voltage enough to fall within the iriver's voltage specs. There’s a thread about it here: http://www.misticriver.net/showthread.php?t=4937
[440] Is it possible to upgrade or replace the H1xx hard drive?
Much of the following hdd replacement info has been lifted from NPSwimDude500’s FAQ over at misticriver (http://www.misticriver.net/showthread.php?p=330700#post330700)
Yes.
H120: uses a single platter 1.8" 20 gigabyte hard drive manufactured by Toshiba. The model name on these drives may read MK2004GAL or MK2006GAL (the 4 and 6 designate model years, and there is no known difference other than the number). Toshiba currently manufactures two other single-platter drives with the same dimensions, the 30 gigabyte MK3006GAL drive and the 40 gigabyte MK4007GAL drive which uses new PMR technology (note: it has not been officially released yet). 120s can both be fitted with these drives without modification.
H140: uses Toshiba's 1.8" double platter 40 gigabyte MK4004GAH/MK4006GAH hard drive (once again, the 4 and 6 only designate model years). It can be replaced by the double platter MK6006GAH or Toshiba's new dual platter 1.8" 80GB drive, the MK8007GAH, which also uses PMR technology. The 140 can only be upgraded to these drives without modification. You can also, of course, replace an MK4004GAH/MK4006GAH with another MK4004GAH/MK4006GAH.
[450] So how do I replace / upgrade the HDD?
Replacing an iriver hdd mimics the first few steps of battery replacement, so you might like to have a look at this pictorial guide: http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html
Should you replace the hard drive of your player, you will first need to open it. The H1xx series is held together by 10 screws, 4 on each end, and one on each side. A T5 Torx wrench (or a tiny flathead screwdriver) is required to open the player. T5 wrenches can usually be found at Radioshack-type electronics stores. If you can’t find one, they are available at MisticAudio.com.
BEFORE YOU OPEN THE PLAYER, MAKE SURE IT IS TURNED OFF, the remote is disconnected and the hold switch is locked (you don't want to accidentally turn on the player in the middle of this operation, should you decide to try it). Then slowly and carefully lift the back plate. Once the backplate is off, you’ll see the hard drive, under a loose piece of rubber padding. Remove the padding and gently lift the ‘top end’ hdd enabling you to then slide it out. Slide your new drive in and replace the padding. Then, replace the screws, USB connect, copy your rockbox files to the new drive, and you're done.
[460] Can I use an Apple hdd in my iriver?
There is a great deal of controversy surrounding Apple branded hard drives. Apple uses the same brand/model of hard drives as iriver has in it's 1xx/3xx lines. Thus, they come up on ebay. It's been rumored that Apple drives are partitioned/altered in a certain way that makes them compatible only with ipods. Mind, this isn't fact, but it is supported by the fact that apple drives have an apple logo on the bottom left corner of the labeled side of the drive. This is a way to tell that the drive is an apple drive.
Some users have been able to partition apple branded drives so that they work. On the other hand, others have been unsuccessful. So far the procedure seems to be to use the Swissknife Utility to repartition the drive.
Ultimately, it's best to stay away from Apple drives, as it's not guaranteed to work one way or another.
[500] Misc…
[510] Do I need to do any regular maintenance?
It's probably a good idea to Format your drive regularly to ensure you don't run into problems like excessive fragmentation. Instructions:
1. Connect the iriver to a PC via USB
2. Ensure you have a back-up of the necessary rockbox files and any other files you wish to keep. Formatting will delete everything on the drive.
3. Once the iriver is recognized, open Explorer and right click on the iriver drive.
4. Click ‘Format’.
5. Leave the file system as FAT32 and the capacity as 18.6GB and click ‘Start’
6. The format process will take >10 minutes. Once it is done, you will need to reload the rockbox files.
7. Disconnect the drive.
Occasionally rockbox can misreport the amount of free space on the iriver. You can force a rescan by going into the main menu->Info->Debug->View disk info->Free-> then click the joystick.
[520] How often should I do regular maintenance (i.e. format the drive)?
I don't think anyone really knows at this point. A little regular maintenance shouldn't hurt - every month or so to be safe (or even every week if you're an avid taper!). When deleting files, make sure to read the next question:
[530] Why is Rockbox saying my drive is full when it really isn't?
This has happened to a bunch of people. You delete a bunch of files in windows, but you're getting this damn message in Rockbox saying your disk is full. The reason for this was best described by Petur in another thread:
'The problem you're seeing is that when deleting files through the usb connection (windows/linux/mac/...), rockbox doesn't know about the freed space.
For speed reasons the disk isn't scanned on bootup, and rockbox thinks the clusters are still occupied. We're still looking for a way to get round this, maybe do a scan in the background or set a flag somewhere when we suspect a scan is needed.
To make rockbox rescan the drive:
go to Menu -> Info ->Rockbox Info and tap the play button (or click the joystick).
You should see a Scanning disk message.'
To play it safe you should probably do this every time you delete a bunch of files via windows. This problem does not occur if you delete via Rockbox. To delete via Rockbox, via the file browse just select the file or directory you wish to delete, then click and hold the joystick. A menu will appear. Select delete, and click the joystick another couple of times to confirm. This can come in very handy when you're on the road and realise you don't have enough disk space to record the gig you've just set up for. :)
[540] How do I connect my iriver to my computer for transferring recordings?
Plug the USB cable into your computer and into the iriver and in Windows the iriver will automagically be detected as a drive in Windows Explorer.
[550] My recorded file is xxx MB, but my audio software says it is 0:00 minutes long. How do I fix this?
Your wav header is buggered (the little bit at the start of a wav file that stores some information about the file, including how long it is). This can happen from a variety of causes where recording hasn't stopped gracefully (eg your battery dies mid-recording or you pause mid-recording then connect to your computer).
Use Kuba's nifty little wav header repair utility to generate a new header: http://www.fi.muni.cz/~xvanek4/repair/repair.zip (http://www.fi.muni.cz/~xvanek4/repair/repair.zip)
Once downloaded:
1) unzip the app to the same dir as your file
2) It runs from a command-line, so you'll need to get to a command prompt in windows by clicking on 'start' then 'run'. Type 'cmd'. Click 'ok'
3) In the black window that opens, navigate to the directory your file is in. (You change directories by typing 'cd <directory name>').
4) Once you're in the correct directory get the exact file size and name by typing 'dir'.
4) Now type 'Repair <filename> <filesize>'
[560] Can I use a different iriver model other than the H1xx to tape?
The Rockboxed H3xx model, released after the H1xx, shares most of the recording features of the H1xx and has been used used by some for taping. However it does not have a digital input, so only analog recording is possible.
[570] I'm used to having or like to have physical backups of my recordings, but I can't do this with the iriver - what are my options?
Some people are hesitant to switch to the iriver because they like to have physical backups of their recordings, i.e. DAT or MD masters. There are several good options for backing up master iriver recordings:
* Archive the master WAV as data (not audio) onto a CD or DVD.
* Archive the compressed (FLAC or SHN) master recording onto a data CD or DVD.
* Keep at least two copies at all times: audio and archived
* Share copies with your friends.
* Share copies with the greater live music trading community.
* For bands that allow open taping and have agreed to allow Archive.org to host their live recordings, host the mastered recording on http://www.archive.org
[580] What other resources are there about the iriver?
Rockbox: http://www.rockbox.org
MisticRiver: http://www.misticriver.net
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nice +t
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Very nice!
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* limited Mac support - must transfer via USB instead of Firewire
This is not quite right, seeing as the iRiver has no Firewire port! It's still fair to say the iRiver has limited Mac support, at least in the sense that installing Rockbox is a lot easier with a PC. Installing the bootloader requires either running an .exe on a Windows machine or compiling some code on your own. You only have to install the bootloader once though, and further updates to the firmware can be done pretty painlessly on a Mac.
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* limited Mac support - must transfer via USB instead of Firewire
This is not quite right, seeing as the iRiver has no Firewire port! It's still fair to say the iRiver has limited Mac support, at least in the sense that installing Rockbox is a lot easier with a PC. Installing the bootloader requires either running an .exe on a Windows machine or compiling some code on your own. You only have to install the bootloader once though, and further updates to the firmware can be done pretty painlessly on a Mac.
Oops...I meant to put a 'TODO' in there cos I'm clueless when it comes to Macs. Thanks for the feedback. I've removed the line and added a note to the installing rockbox question.
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continuous +T's, thanks for the time and effort, it looks great.
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great freaking job, whataboutbob! +T's o'plenty. :D :D :D
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Very nice.
Especially nice for me since I've been considering trying this thing out.
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This thread shld be a sticky... The iRivers has great potential to replace the NJB3.
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This thread shld be a sticky... The iRivers has great potential to replace the NJB3.
Brian asked me to contact him once its done so that he can move it to the archive (and maybe get a sticky similar to the jb3 faq). However I think I'll wait for Rockbox 3.0 to be released in the coming weeks (likely to be May 15th or 29th) before I do so, giving Rockbox (and hence this FAQ) some time to settle .
There's good news on the optical recording front. Another developer (amiconn) has jumped in and gotten over the hump that the original developer (preglow) was stuck on. As such, I anticipate an updated patch shortly. I think this gives it a pretty good chance of optical recording getting into 3.0.
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This thread shld be a sticky... The iRivers has great potential to replace the NJB3.
Brian asked me to contact him once its done so that he can move it to the archive (and maybe get a sticky similar to the jb3 faq). However I think I'll wait for Rockbox 3.0 to be released in the coming weeks (likely to be May 15th or 29th) before I do so, giving Rockbox (and hence this FAQ) some time to settle .
There's good news on the optical recording front. Another developer (amiconn) has jumped in and gotten over the hump that the original developer (preglow) was stuck on. As such, I anticipate an updated patch shortly. I think this gives it a pretty good chance of optical recording getting into 3.0.
nice job!
if you need a place to host the pre-compiled stuff you are doing you know how to find me
ran optical in (home testing) for 5 hours over the weekend: akg480/ck63 > Opti-Mod V3 > Iriver h120
files look perfect in wavelab
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[140] Can I use any battery charger with my player?
Warning: By far the most common method of bricking irivers is by people using the wrong charger
Is this a typo for breaking?
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[140] Can I use any battery charger with my player?
Warning: By far the most common method of bricking irivers is by people using the wrong charger
Is this a typo for breaking?
Its (apparently not universal) slang: to 'brick' something is to turn it into an expensive paperweight.
I'll update that q this evening.
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Its (apparently not universal) slang: to 'brick' something is to turn it into an expensive paperweight.
I'll update that q this evening.
[/quote]
I understand now, but IMHO, a FAQ of this nature should stick to plain and simple terms, and not assume the reader is a geek (like the rest of us).
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Charger answer (140) updated.
Optical answer (210) updated. A new optical recording patch is looking pretty stable, and is likely to be committed by the end of May. The last pieces of the puzzle are falling into place.
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Exciting news about the opitcal patch.
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Interesting how an open source project is progressing along much better than a commercial one..(i.e.: M-Audio).
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This thread shld be a sticky... The iRivers has great potential to replace the NJB3.
Brian asked me to contact him once its done so that he can move it to the archive (and maybe get a sticky similar to the jb3 faq). However I think I'll wait for Rockbox 3.0 to be released in the coming weeks (likely to be May 15th or 29th) before I do so, giving Rockbox (and hence this FAQ) some time to settle .
There's good news on the optical recording front. Another developer (amiconn) has jumped in and gotten over the hump that the original developer (preglow) was stuck on. As such, I anticipate an updated patch shortly. I think this gives it a pretty good chance of optical recording getting into 3.0.
here's a perm link for whataboutbob's pre-compiled build:
whataboutbob's pre-compiled build 5-9-2006 (http://www.namewithheld.net/irivierh120rockbox/rockbox.zip)
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Interesting how an open source project is progressing along much better than a commercial one..(i.e.: M-Audio).
m-audio has stabilized it's firmware with 1.4.0. from the get-go (first firmware) they've had a digi-in and the ability to record at 24 bit. while I own both boxes and agree that a lot of times open source development is quicker than closed, I don't think it applies to this situation at all.
The hardware platforms are different butwith a HD the H1xx appears to run leaner on the battery than the M-Audio MT?
Also with Rockbox the H1xx has more features?
Rockbox development has been longer but the pace is still very nice. Also there is more openness.
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Optical recording question updated. [220]
In short, the soon to be released new version of the optical patch will most likely be committed to cvs within a couple of days. But i'll need help testing...especially with sample rates > 44.1kHz.
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here's a perm link for whataboutbob's pre-compiled build:
whataboutbob's pre-compiled build 5-9-2006 (http://www.namewithheld.net/irivierh120rockbox/rockbox.zip)
[/quote]
is this the same build as reply#135 in the so........recording feasable thread.
thanks >>>>>>chris
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Nope. The build in the other thread doesn't have the optical patch.
If you want optical recording (or want to help test), use the just updated latest build in the FAQ. Things are moving damn quick.
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whataboutbob said that the newest patch was included in the 5-9 build. At least here he did:
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2575.90
I don't know what kind of turn around time they have at Rockbox but the patch itself was committed to the tracker yesterday so it will soon be a permanent fixture in the recording functions.
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Ok, well, the optical patch has been committed. Yippee!
So, unless there's some more crazy stuff you want to use that's not committed...like vinylivo's AGC...y'all won't need to patch...or get me to post patched builds.
Y'all can just download the daily build from this page: http://www.rockbox.org/daily.shtml (click on 'latest' under the iriver target you're using)
As of this moment, that will include everything from the latest optical patch, plus a few more tweaks. I'll update the faq once I pour myself a celebratory/hooray its the weekend bourbon. edit: faq updated
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Very nice!
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Ok, well, the optical patch has been committed. Yippee!
So, unless there's some more crazy stuff you want to use that's not committed...like vinylivo's AGC...y'all won't need to patch...or get me to post patched builds.
Y'all can just download the daily build from this page: http://www.rockbox.org/daily.shtml (click on 'latest' under the iriver target you're using)
As of this moment, that will include everything from the latest optical patch, plus a few more tweaks. I'll update the faq once I pour myself a celebratory/hooray its the weekend bourbon. edit: faq updated
sweet!! thanks!! so the only thing I need to do to enable the digi optical in is to change the "source" to digital? no other tweaks needed?
very cool! :) :) also, this will record "bit perfect" with Rockbox (unlike the standard firmware when using optical in?) and I can still get three hours of record time, etc as I was before? it's all set to go!?! yes!!
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very cool! :) :) also, this will record "bit perfect" with Rockbox (unlike the standard firmware when using optical in?) and I can still get three hours of record time, etc as I was before? it's all set to go!?! yes!!
I've confirmed that its bit perfect @ 16/44.1. Testing is required for sample rates higher than 44.1kHz (I don't have sufficient hardware).
I'll run a battery test once my batteries are recharged, but I've recorded for 4hrs w/ plenty of juice left in the tank.
sweet!! thanks!! so the only thing I need to do to enable the digi optical in is to change the "source" to digital? no other tweaks needed?
Once you've installed the latest daily build, yup, that's all you should need to do.
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Ok, checking in here, too. Just got my new H140 the other day. Looking forward to using it as a digi-in recorder, but need to find the time to install Rockbox.
Ok, total :newbie: with this stuff. So I install rockbox and then just need to install the latest daily build, no need for whataboutbob's 5-9 compiled build or anything else?
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Correct. Just follow the steps on this page: http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/view/Main/ManualRockboxInstall#iriver_jukeboxes
Optical recording is now available using the daily build (or bleeding edge build for up to the minute changes).
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Thanks, Bob! +t
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When I copy over the files for the latest build (for optical recording), I lose several functions in the recordings setting area. For example I lose the ability to change frequencies and I can not set channels anymore. If I go back to the 5/9 build (the one I originally installed) these functions are back. I reset my settings just to make sure, but it seems like I'm doing something wrong. Any ideas to how I can get all the functions/selections back?
I've only had my iRiver for a few days now and I might try it out tonight. Before I try the latest builds, I copy my previous settings to my hard drive in case something goes wrong. So, I can move back and forth between builds.
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Co-inciding with the spdif recording code check-in there's been a clean-up of the recording settings, clearing out dead wood in preparation for 3.0.
The 'Channel' setting has never worked for rockbox on the iriver, so until a developer chooses to look at it, you've got the choice of stereo, stereo or stereo.
The sample-rate should now automagically be detected, so there's no longer an option to select it (which never worked anyways).
To be honest I'm not sure about the 16/48 on analog. The auto-detection *may* work for analog too...but I suspect it won't. Can someone confirm?
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Hehehe....thanks for quoting me having a brainfart for posterity! :-)
If anyone wants to be able to record at higher sample rates w/ analog, I suggest you mention it on the rockbox forum. I'm going to lay off harassing the developers for a little while...before they take after me with a bat.
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whatboutbob, good job with these FAQs! :coolguy:
I'd mention somewhere the possibility to turn on the iriver directly to the recording screen, which is a very good feature from a taper's point of view
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AGI: Will do.
raoulduke: apparently 48kHz analog in won't be possible.
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Thanks for clearing that up for me. Now I know that I won't need to worry about frequency or channels. I would like to do 48khz though since that is one of the sample rate choices for the SBM-1. Is it possible for that? I can't plug my SBM-1 into the iRiver right now anyway as my SBM-1 has the coax mod, so I need to go coax to cptical. I will see if RS has the appropriate connectors.
It's not a big deal, since I can cope with 44.1.
On my settings for Rockbox one of the choices is to "Show Recording Screen On Startup". Which shows the recording screen when we start up. In fact, it does exactly that. Unless, you mean to turn on to the screen that shows both settings. I'd like that better myself!
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when running analog in, 16 bit, 44.1 kHz is currently the only option available, no 16/48; which is unfortunate.
How come?
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when running analog in, 16 bit, 44.1 kHz is currently the only option available, no 16/48; which is unfortunate.
How come?
its a hardware limitation. at max the iriver can handle up to 20 bits and 44.1.
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Strange you can't do 48khz analog when I have heard that the iRiver has the same ADC as the JB3. Maybe there are other hardware parts that go into the sampling rate. Anyway, I will try to give the iRiver a run through this weekend and check out some of the funtionality. I know I can test 44.1k and may be able to test 48k too. Thanks to everyone here keeping up to date, especially whataboutbob for all his hard work on this.
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Is it retaining 88.2 or truncating it to 44.1?
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Ok, amiconn has clarified the sample rate issue.
If fed an optical signal anywhere up to 96kHz it will retain it, without truncation.
Apparently analog recording requires an audio clock that is simply not available.
Optical works at > 44.1kHz rates because that is clocked from the spdif input signal.
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So does anyone use a Mac with their iRiver?
Any plans on adding a Mac section to the FAQs? (other than the little info present)
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Any plans on adding a Mac section to the FAQs? (other than the little info present)
If someone can supply the info...sure. :-)
I don't think I'm going to write any Mac info myself because I wouldn't know what the hell I'm on about.
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Any hopes on 20-bit optical input?
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Any hopes on 20-bit optical input?
Slim. Theoretically it looks possible, but it would require a major refactor of the recording (and possibly playback) code, so its highly doubtful it will happen any time soon. I shouldn't set a timeframe because I'm not doing any of the work, but to give you *some* idea, think 6 months rather than 6 weeks or 6 days.
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I've just made a bunch of little edits, added a screenshot and:
[080] So now Rockbox is installed, what are all these settings?!
[081] Recording Settings
[082] Peak Meter Settings
[083] Other useful settings for tapers
[084] What happened to the other Recording Settings, such as Channels and Freq?
[085] So now that everything is configured, how do I record with this thing?
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Apparently analog recording requires an audio clock that is simply not available.
So swapping a crystal could give us 48K?
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Apparently analog recording requires an audio clock that is simply not available.
So swapping a crystal could give us 48K?
No idea. Amiconn or LinusN on the rockbox irc channel may know: http://www.rockbox.org/irc/
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Rockbox will play 24bit 48k WAV back uncompressed. It has issues with 24bit FLAC though and will hang, so playback of 20bit or higher is no problem.
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It'll play 'em...but they'll be truncated to 16bits.
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AMAZING FAQ. Thanks so much. THis is my first post. Cheers! ;D
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dumb question, i know, but.....
i see several mentions that the iriver cannot record analog in @ 48 kHz. however, i have my iriver set to record Line In and under the Record Settings>Frequency, there *is* the option of recording @ 48 KHz.
so what is the issue with recording analog in @ 48 kHz? just curious.
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Quick question (that I'm pretty sure I could answer by trying it myself, but anyway) - when in FM mode, can you still record, i.e. tape radio broadcasts?
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Quick question (that I'm pretty sure I could answer by trying it myself, but anyway) - when in FM mode, can you still record, i.e. tape radio broadcasts?
yep, set the recording setting to line in
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i see several mentions that the iriver cannot record analog in @ 48 kHz. however, i have my iriver set to record Line In and under the Record Settings>Frequency, there *is* the option of recording @ 48 KHz.
This option has been removed as anything other than 16bit/44kHz will not be supported in the near future
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It'll play 'em...but they'll be truncated to 16bits.
Ahh....good to know.
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I have my iriver set to record Line In and under the Record Settings>Frequency, there *is* the option of recording @ 48 KHz.
so what is the issue with recording analog in @ 48 kHz? just curious.
The option might be there in your build, but it doesn't actually work on the iriver h1xx (I *think* it was a remnant from the archos code). So the option has been removed as of yesterday.
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i can listen to, and record that same fm signal simultaneously? can someone post a "how to" workflow?
- Go to the FM radio screen and select the station you want to hear/record
- Go to the menu from within the radio screen
- Select recording and set the source to line-in
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I just set 'line in' as source before go to the preset. Then you just need to go to the general menu (while listening, of course) with the 'A-B' button, show the recording screen ands start with it :)
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If anyone cares, I just finished a spdif recording battery test. I was sending an optical signal from my h140 to my h120 w/ a 2200mAh battery.
It died just after 13.5hrs.
This is a low-ball figure, as the clip light was enabled and triggered far more than it would in the field.
This should mean that the stock 1300mAh battery would get at least 8hrs spdif recording.
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I guess there is battery variation involved... Mine can only do 6 hrs with the stock.
If anyone cares, I just finished a spdif recording battery test. I was sending an optical signal from my h140 to my h120 w/ a 2200mAh battery.
It died just after 13.5hrs.
This is a low-ball figure, as the clip light was enabled and triggered far more than it would in the field.
This should mean that the stock 1300mAh battery would get at least 8hrs spdif recording.
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I guess there is battery variation involved... Mine can only do 6 hrs with the stock.
Has your battery seen a bit of use?
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If anyone cares, I just finished a spdif recording battery test. I was sending an optical signal from my h140 to my h120 w/ a 2200mAh battery.
It died just after 13.5hrs.
This is a low-ball figure, as the clip light was enabled and triggered far more than it would in the field.
This should mean that the stock 1300mAh battery would get at least 8hrs spdif recording.
Great news! I need to upgrade to a 2200mAh battery, but even at say 6 hours, that is a whole evening of recording.
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Quite abit.. but the unit is not with me now... Got a buddy running some tests for me. :)
I guess there is battery variation involved... Mine can only do 6 hrs with the stock.
Has your battery seen a bit of use?
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Why the sad face corsair?
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I have my iriver set to record Line In and under the Record Settings>Frequency, there *is* the option of recording @ 48 KHz.
so what is the issue with recording analog in @ 48 kHz? just curious.
The option might be there in your build, but it doesn't actually work on the iriver h1xx (I *think* it was a remnant from the archos code). So the option has been removed as of yesterday.
Interesting piece of info from preglow posted last night:
20 bits will be max bit depth, and no, 48kHz is not possible (except for S/PDIF) thanks to hardware limitatations. Some of the following might be possible: 11025, 22050 and 88200.
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I read that too. That sounds weird. 88.2k but not 48k? I will be on the lookout for updates on such developments.
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Just wanted to ask you guys if this player: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-40GB-iRiver-H140-MP3-PLAYER-MP3-RECORD-FM-JUKEBOX_W0QQitemZ9726935792QQcategoryZ48683QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is okay, before i go out and buy it.
Does that look okay?
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Just wanted to ask you guys if this player: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-40GB-iRiver-H140-MP3-PLAYER-MP3-RECORD-FM-JUKEBOX_W0QQitemZ9726935792QQcategoryZ48683QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is okay, before i go out and buy it.
Does that look okay?
looks good to me. US price would be around $200+... not sure how much that converts too.
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Is the only suitable iriver player the h1xx series? Does anyone know if the newer H340 ones have line in are capable of recording effectively?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/iRIVER-H340-40GB-Colour-MP3-Player-FM-Radio-Mint_W0QQitemZ9725149739QQcategoryZ48683QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Interesting piece of info from preglow posted last night:
20 bits will be max bit depth, and no, 48kHz is not possible (except for S/PDIF) thanks to hardware limitatations. Some of the following might be possible: 11025, 22050 and 88200.
Why no 48K but maybe 88200?
Strange but interesting.
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Just wanted to ask you guys if this player: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-40GB-iRiver-H140-MP3-PLAYER-MP3-RECORD-FM-JUKEBOX_W0QQitemZ9726935792QQcategoryZ48683QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is okay, before i go out and buy it.
Does that look okay?
I purchased a H120 from them (emilyandlily) last year with no problems.
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Is the only suitable iriver player the h1xx series? Does anyone know if the newer H340 ones have line in are capable of recording effectively?
Most definitely Yes! :)
When recording was first added to the H300 Rockbox firmware last Dec I taped a bunch of JBT shows & they all came out perfectly! :) My best recordings yet!
Check out the lossless version of this show:
http://www.archive.org/details/jbt2005-12-21.flac
Ignore the wierd formatting, LMA seems to have been doing som updating which has effected the code I used for the layout, I will fix that later.
H300 is the BEST portable & stealthy Line-In WAV recorder available!! (imo) & Even better when used with H100 remote ;)
You got 15 sec pre record, customizable screen colors which allows you to have a very low brightness screen, adjustable levels on the fly, approx 3 hrs per file & seemless recording between files. It is very sturdy & handles bumps & knocks very well without any defects. Dual boot mode is very handy! Um yeh, duno what else to say, it is bloody awesome! If you don't need optical recording then go for H300 - it is killer! :D
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This is for: whataboutbob
After being asked to comment on iRiver H3x0 use in the field, here is a couple posts I posted back at the time when I did my first recordings on my H340 (w/ Rockbox). They cover just about anything I could say about it, but I'm happy to answer any specific questions if you have any. Cheers & good on you for compiling all this info on iRiver's for recording! Nice work! :)
but as far i can see the ihp 1xx serie is still the best DAP ever made.
Can't argue with you there ;)
But for me I don't need digital input so the H300 serves my needs perfectly (now)! & I couldn't be more happier :D Maybe if I was doing regular soundboard patches it might be worth looking at a digital source... but with live stealth AUD taping, analog input is fine since the quality is never 100% perfect anyway.
The most important thing for me is having minimal gear to carry in to the show, & not changing discs!! All I need now is the iRiver & the mics... & that's it :D & knowing that I'm never going to need to start a new recording half way thru the show is 1 less thing to worry about & such a relief. It's great, I can wear the mics & iRiver & forget about taping till the end of the show, & being a HDD recorder it handles a lot of soft bumps so I can even boogie & move around a little with without fear of defects & skips etc. Compared to my last rig this like comlete freedom & so much less stress.
As far as the RB interface goes, its simple & accurate & functional... what else do ya need :) The level meters are great!, I haven't seen such a large levels display on a portable WAV recorder.
Every taper has their own preferences & requirements & techniques etc... but for me: iRiver H340 w/ Rockbox is the answer to all my prayers :D & as I said: I couldn't be happier! Thank you Rockbox!!! :D
I'm not sure if everyone here understands or not, but I think the main point is that the iRiver H300 series has never been able to record in WAV format! (up until last month's Rockbox release). H100's have always had WAV Rec support so that's nothing special... But for the H300 this is a huge step up making it one of the best overall choices for live taping!
Apart from the lack of digital input I believe the H300's are much better than the H100's... as an overall unit you can't beat: color screen, photos, video, usbotg, & an almost endless potential with Rockbox plugins. & although the H300's are slightly thicker, they are also shorter (in height) which helps when carrying it in your pocket or jacket. (& also no annoying & obtrusive joystick).
Btw, nope I don't work for iRiver, & I don't care about the brand names, I just care about functionality & features :) Anyway in regards to the original subject: H100's have always been the best choice, but now the H300's are an even better choice (when no digital input is required).
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Finchy, not gonna start a shoot out between the H1xx and h3xx series but my overall feeling is that the H1xx beats the H3xx series hands down since it has the optical-in, it is THE choice for anyone seriously recording (outboard AD). If you look at what used units go for, I think you will agree. I have already noticed the used price point creeping up since preglow's SPDIF patch was committed.
When you decide to upgrade your gear, you are stuck with your H3xx analog section and AD, the H1xx does not limit you to it's own AD, you just go and score a modSBM and start to enter a completey different world of field recording...the transistion is dramatic.
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To be fair, Finchy is referring to just analog line-in.
I asked Finchy to jump in here and give some feedback on his experiences w/ the H3xx because he's the only taper I know that's been using one. So he's not trying to start a war. :)
I'd be interested to know how the battery consumption compares between the two units, along with the ADCs. My gut says because of the colour the H3xx will suck a bit more juice, but I've no idea about which ADC it uses.
Damn some of those colour rockbox WPS's look good tho. :-)
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I just picked up this replacement battery for my iriver: UP325385A4H.
So that means I have to do this now, right?
"Please note that ipods have reversed polarity from irivers, so if you use an “ipod battery” you’ll need to reverse the battery wires at the molex connector."
I just want to make sure as I'm not really in the rocket science category.
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Zeus: That's correct. You will need to flip the red and black wires around on the battery.
I'll try to update that faq tonight, but for now, just so you've got a little more info to go on:
First it might be worthwhile just quickly jotting down which wire is entering which side of the connector. I got distracted once mid-operation, came back and couldn't remember for the life of me which wire was supposed to go where. Now, use the tip of a very small screwdriver or a knife (but be very careful not to cut anything) to gently lever up one of the flaps on the battery's molex connector. Then just gently pull the corresponding wire out. Repeat for the other side.
While you've got the molex connector out on its own, using a razor you might like to shave off the tiny bottom lip/ledge (its like .5mm deep). I've found this makes it a lot easier to fit the connector back into the board.
Now swap the wires around and gently press the flaps back down.
Now to remove the existing battery. Just follow the guide I link to in the faq for this part. The scariest part of this operation is pulling out the connector from the board. Its difficult to remove because there's not enough room to pull it out. You'll likely need to very gently apply upward pressure on one of the bottom corners, using a tiny screwdriver or toothpick. Just be careful not to touch the board with the screwdriver - you shouldn't need to touch the board at all with it. Once the battery is free, just plug the new battery in. At this point you might like to wipe the inside of the screen down with a soft cloth (i use the cloth that comes with my prescription glasses). Now just put everything back where it was. Make sure you position the hold switch back in the correct notch...that's a dodgy description...but I think you'll figure out what i mean when you're there.
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To be fair, Finchy is referring to just analog line-in.
I asked Finchy to jump in here and give some feedback on his experiences w/ the H3xx because he's the only taper I know that's been using one. So he's not trying to start a war. :)
I'd be interested to know how the battery consumption compares between the two units, along with the ADCs. My gut says because of the colour the H3xx will suck a bit more juice, but I've no idea about which ADC it uses.
Damn some of those colour rockbox WPS's look good tho. :-)
I've read the headphone section of the H300 series is identical to the H100 series on Head-fi.
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yes, the h1xx and h3xx series use the exact same audio chip responsible for analog input and output.
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I'd be interested to know how the battery consumption compares between the two units, along with the ADCs. My gut says because of the colour the H3xx will suck a bit more juice, but I've no idea about which ADC it uses.
At the moment the h3xx uses more battery when running Rockbox but this is considered a bug and will get fixed.
For your info, the latest tests on h1xx show that Rockbox gives you more runtime than iriver firmware :)
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Finchy, not gonna start a shoot out between the H1xx and h3xx series but my overall feeling is that the H1xx beats the H3xx series hands down since it has the optical-in, it is THE choice for anyone seriously recording (outboard AD). If you look at what used units go for, I think you will agree. I have already noticed the used price point creeping up since preglow's SPDIF patch was committed.
When you decide to upgrade your gear, you are stuck with your H3xx analog section and AD, the H1xx does not limit you to it's own AD, you just go and score a modSBM and start to enter a completey different world of field recording...the transistion is dramatic.
Haha, yeh I've been through similar debates a few times. Over the last 3 years I have many times considered upgrading to an ADC & using optical input (I have a JB3 & optical MD as well as my H340), but considering there is nothing truely stealthy available it is not practical for me.
Consider for a second that I am from Australia, & compared to the States taping is still in it's infancy here & is NOT widely accepted! Therefore when taping shows here most of the time I need to be completely stealth! (Mics stands or anything visibly noticable are out of the question). & Anytime I have been casual with my taping I have been plagued with security guard hassles, or self-righteous mofo's who believe that they are saving the world by dobbing me in to security... or just hassles from people asking questions & talking etc (which I'm sure happens everywhere). Last year at a festival I had some yuppy prick hassle me claiming he'd seen me during the day (taping) & was convinced that I was concealing a bomb! :( Anyway so having established that I need to be steathy, the less equipment I have to carry (& conceal) the better! That means no extra battery modules & chunky ADC, or pre-amps, or converter plugs etc etc. & I've already mentioned in my earlier post that I think that anolog taping is fine for live recordings, unless you're doing soundboard source then 99% of the time Digital input is not necissary imo! There are many other dynamic factors that will compromise audio quality before you'd notice the limits of an anaolg line, eg: sound src & venue speakers, mic position stability, crowd noise, recording settings & bass roll-off & other filtering etc. Also the anolog soundboard source shows I've done sound nothing less than the few DSBD shows I've heard.
I respect that everyone has their own opinions & when it comes to taping it mostly comes down to locality factors, venues, policies, crowd, & last but not least: "Luck!". If you tape with digital source then no derr the H100 is better than H300 considering the H300 only records analog. I respect that, & if you'd read my post more closely I was specificly talking about analog taping only! It's all good for you to sit on ya high-horse & judge me by suggesting I'm not a "serious taper" just because I don't use optical digital, but I hope this post has highlighted that there are other factors to consider. It's not as simple for everyone else then how you put it.
My personal opinion is that H100 is the best portable optical WAV recorder, & H300 is the best analog WAV recorder (both with Rockbox). I have researched a lot of portable recording units a few times over the past 4 years (up until Aug '05), & I believe my opinion is well founded. You're enititled to your opinions too.
My ideal dream (if possible) would be digital USB stealth mics running directly into something small & self contaned like the iRiver. Digital source with minimal gear to carry ;)
To whataboutbob:
I haven't done extensive tests with battery usage on my iRiver (only basic testing), but since I've been recording WAV using Rockbox: I get about 5 to 5.5 hours out of a fully charged battery (standard battery), & obviously that is a little less the more the screen & any functions are used.
Btw: 1 other very nice thing I forgot to mention in my previous posts, I haven't tested it in the field yet but there is also Peak Light setting that will turn on the screen if the levels peak out at all (serving as an alert). I've tested this at home which seems to work great! But I never really get that issue anyway since I usually record with a little less gain to allow extra levels than the highest before peaking, still nice to have though. :D
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My personal opinion is that H100 is the best portable optical WAV recorder, & H300 is the best analog WAV recorder (both with Rockbox). I have researched a lot of portable recording units a few times over the past 4 years (up until Aug '05), & I believe my opinion is well founded. You're enititled to your opinions too.
...
Btw: 1 other very nice thing I forgot to mention in my previous posts, I haven't tested it in the field yet but there is also Peak Light setting that will turn on the screen if the levels peak out at all (serving as an alert). I've tested this at home which seems to work great! But I never really get that issue anyway since I usually record with a little less gain to allow extra levels than the highest before peaking, still nice to have though. :D
Considering the fact that the h1xx and h3xx use the same analog sound chip, I think choosing either of them is just a personal choice. At the moment the h1xx is slightly better as the h3xx port of rockbox suffers a power issue causing it to eat more battery than it should.
And I'm glad you like the clipping light, I'm quite proud of it. I'm thinking of adding a level to it so you can get an alert if passing a set level rather then actually clipping.
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For those that don't know (or haven't figured it out) petur's a rockbox developer and was one of the main drivers behind a lot of the recording development (including, obviously, the clip-light).
Petur, I really like the idea of a configurable clip-light level, but I'm wondering if we'll still be able to tell if its clipping? I guess the thick clip bar things will still tell us that, won't they? That way I suppose I could set it at about -3dB and visually monitor thereafter.
Finchy (and petur), thanks for your H3xx feedback...I'll do my best to incorporate it into the faq.
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Petur, I really like the idea of a configurable clip-light level
Me too :)
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cheers to petur and all the other rockbox developers :)
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cheers to petur and all the other rockbox developers :)
Ditto! +T petur.
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cheers to petur and all the other rockbox developers :)
Ditto! +T petur.
here here.... all hail petur!
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shhht. stop it.
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Good job petur! Took my iRiver out for a real world spin last night. Ron Popeil got it right when he said "Set it and forget it." I just set my levels, hit record, and set the hold button. I stopped and saved at the first encore of my show then started it right back up. So small, so nice.
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Seems like as good a place as any, but I just bought the h120 w/remote from a store on ebay (see link below) for what I see as a screaming price: brand new in the box for $166 including CA sales tax. Their service was great. Shipping would have been $18, but I had a friend pick it up for me from their store. They have many on their site now (h3xx too), including auctions or buy it now's.
+t to everyone in these threads making it an easy decision to retire my njb3, but especially the rockbox developers! They'll see a donation from me soon.
http://stores.ebay.com/OutletMP3 (http://stores.ebay.com/OutletMP3)
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The glut of new H120s on eBay means falling prices.
On Friday, May 19th, there were 23 H120s sold.
Of those, 11 were between $110 and $120.
Average price that day was $118
Shipping and handling is about $20
I second the recommendation of OutletMP3 as a source
for iRiver products on eBay. Their product descriptions
are honest, and they ship very quickly.
Flintstone
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The glut of new H120s on eBay means falling prices.
On Friday, May 19th, there were 23 H120s sold.
Of those, 11 were between $110 and $120.
Average price that day was $118
Shipping and handling is about $20
I second the recommendation of OutletMP3 as a source
for iRiver products on eBay. Their product descriptions
are honest, and they ship very quickly.
Flintstone
I third that... however, when I bought mine from them in March it was before the new ones started showing up and I paid $210 shipped for a refurb. :-\ it works great, but I sure would've loved to save $50+ and get a new one!
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The glut of new H120s on eBay means falling prices.
On Friday, May 19th, there were 23 H120s sold.
Of those, 11 were between $110 and $120.
Average price that day was $118
Shipping and handling is about $20
I second the recommendation of OutletMP3 as a source
for iRiver products on eBay. Their product descriptions
are honest, and they ship very quickly.
Flintstone
Not to argue for the sake of arguing, but their product descriptions are a little less than honest... I got two irivers from them (a buddy overseas bought one from Outletmp3 and had it shipped to my address for me to ship to him).
With each iriver, neither of them was "Factory Sealed" as the auction stated. Also, even more concerning is this tidbit: Outletmp3 ONLY ships to the USA and Canada, and his auctions say the irivers "come with iRIver warranty"... but the warranty card included states the warranty is ONLY valid for purchases made in European countries. that's a little less than honest, IMO... especially considering the fact that Outletmp3 clearly opens the boxes to put stickers on the inside of the instruction manual. So he surely has seen the warranty card with having opened up all these iRiver packages to put stickers in their instruction manuals.
Having said that, shipping in both instances was extremely quick (USPS priority mail). But if you plan on purchasing from him, just know that contrary to the auction listing you will NOT get a warranty for the item from iRiver if you live in the U.S. or Canada (and you cannot buy from outletmp3 without providing a U.S./Canada address).
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so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve
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so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve
are you feeding it a digital signal before getting to the recording screen?
I know that was an 'issue' in the past
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so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve
are you feeding it a digital signal before getting to the recording screen?
I know that was an 'issue' in the past
no, should I be?
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so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve
are you feeding it a digital signal before getting to the recording screen?
I know that was an 'issue' in the past
no, should I be?
give it a try, I had the same issue and when I fed it the digital signal before going to the recording screen it fixed it
I also reset my settings once upgrading to the latest build
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stejampzy: that does sound like an issue that the very first version of the optical recording patch had. Crumbo's suggestion is spot on. Let us know how you go.
If it is definitely the latest build and you can replicate it, could you please report the problem here:
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2575.105 (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2575.105)
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couple of Iriver H120 recordings here:
http://www.archive.org/details/glenphillips2006-05-20.late.akg483.flac16
http://www.archive.org/details/jkingham2006-05-20.late.akg483.flac16
optical in works great.....thanks to everyone over at rockbox for their hard work 8)
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Not to argue for the sake of arguing, but their product descriptions are a little less than honest... I got two irivers from them (a buddy overseas bought one from Outletmp3 and had it shipped to my address for me to ship to him).
With each iriver, neither of them was "Factory Sealed" as the auction stated. Also, even more concerning is this tidbit: Outletmp3 ONLY ships to the USA and Canada, and his auctions say the irivers "come with iRIver warranty"... but the warranty card included states the warranty is ONLY valid for purchases made in European countries. that's a little less than honest, IMO... especially considering the fact that Outletmp3 clearly opens the boxes to put stickers on the inside of the instruction manual. So he surely has seen the warranty card with having opened up all these iRiver packages to put stickers in their instruction manuals.
Having said that, shipping in both instances was extremely quick (USPS priority mail). But if you plan on purchasing from him, just know that contrary to the auction listing you will NOT get a warranty for the item from iRiver if you live in the U.S. or Canada (and you cannot buy from outletmp3 without providing a U.S./Canada address).
I talked to the guy. I'm pretty sure he is aware it's grey area equipment, not positive though. I've also had problems with them answering emails and have had to resort to phone calls. So while it's a good price and he does replace non-working items in 7 days, anyone buying may want to purchase the extended warranty.
And beware his payment system, if something gets out of sync between his system and EBay/PayPal, you're in limbo (that's where I am).
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ok, i did the battery replacement/upgrade today on my iriver and on a friend's. instead of typing this here and in a PM to whataboutbob, i thought i'd just post it here.
whataboutbob wisely suggested shaving off a tiny bit of the molex connector bottom "lip." instead of doing that, i actually just used the molex connector from the original iriver battery... the molex connector from the iriver battery does not have as big of a bottom "lip" so no shaving was necessary.
also, i used a very tiny flat-bladed screw driver to gently unplug the original battery and to plug in the new battery as well.
don't forget to reverse the wires. something i noted was this: while looking at the top of the molex connector (where the little "flaps" are on top), the red wire goes on the left side and the black wire goes to the right side of the connector.
the operation took longer than i anticipated, but basically it took me a long time to take off all the molex connectors and put them on the new batteries. (i was extra careful, better to take a few minutes longer and not damage them.)
hope anyone who replaces/upgrades the iriver battery finds this info useful. :)
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I'd like to see some pics of this. Are there any that I've missed?
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by request of thegreatgumbino...
there are pretty good pictures of the iriver battery installation at the "instruction" link in the faq composed by whataboutbob, found here: http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html
the first picture below is to show the small flat headed screwdriver i used to unplug the original iriver battery, as well as to plug up the new battery. (the penny is included in the picture to give a size comparison.)
the second picture is a front shot of the molex connector, with arrows pointing to the "flaps." with the way this picture is angled, you would insert the [iPod] battery wires into the 'back' of the molex connector; the "flaps" are located on the front. and be sure to be gentle when lifting the "flaps" to remove/insert the wires, as they are somehwat delicate.
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Gracias! +T
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i just thought of another couple of tidbits that would be useful for someone performing the battery upgrade/replacement...
- not shown in the pictures at the previously mentioned site with iriver battery replacement instructions, is this: the top of the hard drive in the iriver has a type of rubber on the top (i presume to help with shock absorption). on my H140, this rubber shock piece has "glue" at two ends, so it's prudent to pull off this foam piece SLOWLY.
- there are some small parts that can (and DID, for me) fall out of the iriver once you have it opened up... for instance, when you look at your iriver from the front on the outside (as if you were looking at the LCD screen), notice the two lights around the "joystick" (one is green, when the iriver is charging up, and the other light is red). on the inside of the iriver, when you open it up, right around those green and red lights are small rubber pieces... those fell out when i replaced my battery. they are SMALL, like everything else in the iriver, so be careful not to lose them.
i suggest doing the battery replacement at a kitchen/work table with plenty of room all around. that way if something comes out, it's more likely to stay on the table.
happy modding! 8)
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in fact very nice, thx!
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Mistic River's Detailed Instructions on how to remove the H1XX battery (includes photos).
http://www.misticriver.net/wiki/index.php/H1xx_Internal_Battery_Replacement
If people have success, could they please report which ebay vendor they used and the general description of the battery they purchased?
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Aye, success here with a 2200mAh Ipod battery. I am in the UK, so. probably not much use to you shaggy, but here goes...
"APPLE IPOD 1G+2G HIGH CAPACITY REPLACEMENT BATTERY KIT!"
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/THINK-MOBILE_APPLE-IPOD-BATTERIES_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ4QQftidZ2QQtZkm
The battery part number is UP325385A4H (3.7V/2200mAh)
I'm sure you can get cheaper in NA, you usually can...
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Very nice. I'll keep this in mind once the battery in my H140 starts to lose its charge.
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You may be waiting a while George. Those batts have a pretty decent life. Used mine for about 2 hrs/day for a year with minimal impact.
Just a quick update on rockbox. The 3.0 release is delayed indefinitely. There are some critical outstanding bugs (not recording related) that they're working through. I'd say if you've got a stable build, stick with it. My guess is they'll have 3.0 out in the next couple of weeks...but that really is just a guesstimate.
Petur's also got me testing a patch which lowers boosting during recording. If it works it'll increase battery life.
I hope it goes without saying, but if anyone has any probs with rockbox recording, please speak up, otherwise I'll assume its all hunky-dory and feed that back to the developers.
oh...and stay away from the plugins...those stupid games are ridiculously addictive.
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now recording with rockbox decreses the battery to half size than playing files, am I right? (more or less: 6-8 hours)...so what is expected after the developers improve it? close to 10 hours maybe?
and well, 3.0 will be just like a daily built, as I've read, so I'm not in a hurry :) I'm running 12th of May one and I'm happy :)
and thanks for all the tips concerning replacing batteries!!
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I won this yesterday: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9733423014
One for my iriver and one for the wife's (read as: I have 2 of these, just in case something happens to the 1st one, my MT or my R1).
They shipped today, so I expect to have them on Sat, so I will keep everyone posted.
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Any respectable taper needs his backup(s). :)
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respectable
Not sure I fall into that category :o
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I've got one if you can't find one for cheaper than $10 (cost of shipping from Australia).
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crap crap crappety crap.
I just did some tests on 'remote interference'. Can't believe I haven't noticed it before. I just wrote the noise off to mic shortcomings...how wrong I was.
I set source to line in, didn't plug a mic in, then recorded w/ a varety of gain, then measured noise floor (in dB):
First with no gain (left channel, right channel):
w/ remote: -84, -81
w/o rem: -84, -84
20dB gain:
w/ remote: -72, -63
w/o rem: -81, -81
48dB gain:
w/ remote: -42, -36
w/o rem: -52, -52
I repeat: crap crap crappety crap.
LinusN (one of the lead rockbox developers) is convinced that the main iriver units aren't grounded properly...some worse than others. As soon as he said that, the penny dropped for me...I think I know now what the damn source is of cell phone interference I've encountered in some of my recordings. Unless I'm mistaken (and that's entirely possible) the remote is essentially acting like a giant antenna.
So, now all we need is one of you electronics gurus on here to confirm that this is the issue, and figure out a way to fix it! (please!). :-)
edit: According to Linus: 'the problem is that the analog and digital ground are connected on the ticking units...most likely a mistake, since there is still a resistance.'
I gotta go eat humble pie in another thread now (apologies to chinarider).
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well with an external pre the noise floor issue is essentially a moot point.
shielding the remote might help some if you managed to take it apart and maybe replace the wire with a better shielded version.
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Just ran my own tests, whataboutbob, and below are my results.
First with no gain (left channel, right channel):
w/ remote: -96.1 / -95.97
w/o rem: -95.05 / -96.05
24dB gain:
w/ remote: -64.37 / -65.37
w/o rem: -87.71 / -87.9
48dB gain:
w/ remote: -59.87 / -56.78
w/o rem: -64.56 / -64.64
Based on my findings, mentioned in another thread, these results will need to be double-checked... i.e. the results I list above are Maxmum RMS Values reported by Adobe Audition. There is apparently HDD noise, therefore said HDD noise would affect the values.
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Sorry for being a post-whore, but I double-checked the results. Here was my process: I boosted the Waveforms by 30 dB to spot where the HDD noise (HDD spinning?) was located, then used the UNDO function to get the WAV back to its original volume level... then selected a section *without* the HDD noise and used the "Statistics..." function in Adobe Audition to get the following Maximum RMS Values:
0 dB gain
w/ remote: -96.10 / -95.96
w/o rem: -96.10/-96.08
24 dB gain
w/ remote: -85.16 / -81.51
w/o rem: -87.20 / -87.27
48 dB gain
w/ remote: -59.87 / -56.78
w/o rem: -63.27 / -63.11
At the shows I've recorded, I've only added a maximum of +17 dB of analog gain using the iriver (at 3 shows thus far, all moderately loud... not quite as loud as an arena show, though). This is using the 3-wire powering for AT831s (which do not put out a hot signal at all, compared to 2-wire powered AT831s, IME). So is the approximate 6 dB of noise floor added going to make a big difference??? Anyone?
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well with an external pre the noise floor issue is essentially a moot point.
shielding the remote might help some if you managed to take it apart and maybe replace the wire with a better shielded version.
Sanjay: That doesn't sound like a silver bullet. It may improve things, but I'm guessing it won't fix the underlying problem (main unit not grounded properly). Any ideas how I could ground the unit better. I doubt using an external pre will prevent cell phone interference...but I'll do some testing tonight.
hyperplane: looks like your unit is ok, as long as you're not confusing hdd noise with the remote interference? I didn't just test the quiet part (me paraphrasing). I recorded a sample, pulled the remote, then checked the resultant peaks in audition.
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well with an external pre the noise floor issue is essentially a moot point.
shielding the remote might help some if you managed to take it apart and maybe replace the wire with a better shielded version.
Sanjay: That doesn't sound like a silver bullet. It may improve things, but I'm guessing it won't fix the underlying problem (main unit not grounded properly). Any ideas how I could ground the unit better. I doubt using an external pre will prevent cell phone interference...but I'll do some testing tonight.
hyperplane: looks like your unit is ok, as long as you're not confusing hdd noise with the remote interference? I didn't just test the quiet part (me paraphrasing). I recorded a sample, pulled the remote, then checked the resultant peaks in audition.
whataboutbob - I don't think I'm confusing the two... there is the same noise intermittently with, or without, the remote control plugged up. :(
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Well lucky for you then! All of my 3 H1x0's have similar issues. :-(
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What is the exact test to see if my H120 is vulnerable to this noise issue?
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Set source to line in, don't plug a mic in, set your gain to ~20dB, plug your remote in, record for about 15 seconds, pull the remote out, keep recording for another 15 seconds. Stop recording. Transfer file. View the resultant file in audio software that allows you to monitor levels closely (eg Audition). If your unit is dodgy you'll see it the levels increase around the 15 second mark.
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My noise test:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=62469.15
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does anyone know what each line on the meter scale corresponds to dB wise?
Here's what i do, raoulduke. (This is by no means the "best" method, it's simply how I set my iriver for recording.)
I go to Settings > Display > Peak, and set the Minimum to -21 dB, and set the Maximum to -3 dB. Then I *know* the midpoint marker on the LCD is -9 dB, and I adjust the levels such that levels hover between the midpoint and the maximum shown setting (-9 to -3 dB). Yes, I run my levels conservatively.
That's juat how I have it set up... I don't see much need in having the Peak Minimum set to -60 dB (default setting). I suppose one could set the levels to Min = -12 dB and Max = 0 dB, and then you know the midpoint is -6 dB.
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does anyone know what each line on the meter scale corresponds to dB wise?
I used sine generator in soundforge to create a file with -3dB -6dB -9dB -12dB and -15dB each for ten seconds, I set the meter scale acording to this (set, play the file, set again if necessary, play the file and learn what dB amount the marks stand for). Hope it's understandable :P
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OK... so I've been slacking and have not done any remote measurements myself... But if I'm following what you all are posting with 0 analogue gain the noise from the remote should not really even be a factor compared to non-remote. So if I'm running a pre before the 120 like my PA-3SX and I never touch the gain on the iRiver the noise should be a non issue? Correct? Charging now... maybe I will play with it tonight... have a few shows coming up and the remote is so tiny I would love to be able to use it.
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OK... so I've been slacking and have not done any remote measurements myself... But if I'm following what you all are posting with 0 analogue gain the noise from the remote should not really even be a factor compared to non-remote. So if I'm running a pre before the 120 like my PA-3SX and I never touch the gain on the iRiver the noise should be a non issue? Correct? Charging now... maybe I will play with it tonight... have a few shows coming up and the remote is so tiny I would love to be able to use it.
As I had posted before (either it was this thread or another one), I measured the iriver hard drive noise hit around the -64 dB level.
When using the remote and full analog gain setting (24 dB setting on the iriver), the remote only added around 6 dB of noise, making the noise floor hit around -81 dB.
So I guess my point is, even if you use the analog gain on the iriver while using the remote control, does it really matter that it adds approximately 6 dB of noise? My reasoning: the hard drive is already raising the noise floor by over 20 dB, and the hard drive noise is much greater than the remote control added noise... so again, I pose the question, does it really make a difference that the remote adds around 6 dB of noise (at maximum analog gain setting on the iriver)?
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does anyone know what each line on the meter scale corresponds to dB wise?
Here's what i do, raoulduke. (This is by no means the "best" method, it's simply how I set my iriver for recording.)
I go to Settings > Display > Peak, and set the Minimum to -21 dB, and set the Maximum to -3 dB. Then I *know* the midpoint marker on the LCD is -9 dB, and I adjust the levels such that levels hover between the midpoint and the maximum shown setting (-9 to -3 dB). Yes, I run my levels conservatively.
That's juat how I have it set up... I don't see much need in having the Peak Minimum set to -60 dB (default setting). I suppose one could set the levels to Min = -12 dB and Max = 0 dB, and then you know the midpoint is -6 dB.
Never noticed that feature! Thanks bro! +T
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OK... so I've been slacking and have not done any remote measurements myself... But if I'm following what you all are posting with 0 analogue gain the noise from the remote should not really even be a factor compared to non-remote. So if I'm running a pre before the 120 like my PA-3SX and I never touch the gain on the iRiver the noise should be a non issue? Correct? Charging now... maybe I will play with it tonight... have a few shows coming up and the remote is so tiny I would love to be able to use it.
As I had posted before (either it was this thread or another one), I measured the iriver hard drive noise hit around the -64 dB level.
When using the remote and full analog gain setting (24 dB setting on the iriver), the remote only added around 6 dB of noise, making the noise floor hit around -81 dB.
So I guess my point is, even if you use the analog gain on the iriver while using the remote control, does it really matter that it adds approximately 6 dB of noise? My reasoning: the hard drive is already raising the noise floor by over 20 dB, and the hard drive noise is much greater than the remote control added noise... so again, I pose the question, does it really make a difference that the remote adds around 6 dB of noise (at maximum analog gain setting on the iriver)?
I get similar RMS measurements. To be honest, I have no idea what they mean. I do know, however, that I can hear the impact the remote has on my recordings. It may not be noticeable to others, but it has always bugged me...I just chalked it up to shortcomings of my mics.
Here's a sample with 20dB gain...don't bother analysing the file (though of course you can if you want)...just play it w/ headphones on and volume up...have a guess when I pull the remote:
http://www.yousendit.com/transfer.php?action=download&ufid=C0E886B753F9DC2B
Having said that, this is all moot with an external pre/adc (which I often haven't used to date).
And yes, while the hdd noise is there, to my ears the noise is usually covered by the signal.
...now that just leaves me with cell-phone interference to drive me batty.
I've got a Jason Mraz recording up on archive.org where you can hear both the cell interference and the remote problem (highlighted because the gain was set to ~30dB for this very quiet gig).
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I was talking to Michael Grace awhile back about noise floors. He was really just amused that everyone was so gung ho about 24 bit recordings.
He said he had recently been doing some piano recording. His measurements of the really pretty damn quite recording hall showed a noise floor at -67db (iirc, on that order). I can't even imagine how high the noise floor is in one of the concert venues we tape in.
The extra noise with using the remote is just going to be, well, lost in the noise.
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The extra noise with using the remote is just going to be, well, lost in the noise.
If you're talking about using an external pre, then I agree. The problem comes when you use the iriver pre and it amplifies the tick. Its definitely noticeable during recordings then.
On a different note, I think I've cleared the iriver of any wrongdoing in regards to cell phone interference. Looks like its something higher up the chain. Still trying to figure it out.
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Interestingly the local aussie Ratshack equivalent (Jaycar) just started selling the ipod batteries (same model # as I've bought from ebay in the past).
So if you're looking at a battery upgrade, you may be able to pick them up locally soon (if not already). Just remember to swap the wires!
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The extra noise with using the remote is just going to be, well, lost in the noise.
I second that.
I first recognized the raised noise floor with remote on a recorded lecture. I went +24dB on H120 and +20dB in SoundForge. I don't think I would EVER hear anything without these circumstances.
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My h140 arrived today ;D
Installed rockbox firmware 1.66 (US) & today's daily build.
Noticed that the 'A' & 'D' is not showing up next to the gain figures. I know that up to 24db is analog and over 24db is digital, but having the display on the screen would be nice.
Any advice?
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Installed rockbox firmware 1.66 (US) & today's daily build.
Noticed that the 'A' & 'D' is not showing up next to the gain figures. I know that up to 24db is analog and over 24db is digital, but having the display on the screen would be nice.
The logic that splits up a certain gain setting into analog and decimator parts was moved down to the driver, and at the same time the indicators were removed. (wasn't me ;) )
Your interpretation is not 100% correct however: analog gain steps are 2 or 3 dB depending on the input source, and the decimator (which has 0.5 dB steps) is used to fill that gap. So unless you're at a multiple of 2 or 3 dB, there's always a (very small) decimator gain used.
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Maybe we need a 'purist' patch to use just analog gain? ???
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Thanks for the explanation, Petur.
I don't really understand the analog gain / decimator gain issue, just have read that the analog gain is 'cleaner' or 'better'.
udovdh - There is probably an interest in that patch within the taping community, but like I said above, I don't have enough knowledge on the subject to really understand the pros & cons.
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Thanks for the explanation, Petur.
I don't really understand the analog gain / decimator gain issue, just have read that the analog gain is 'cleaner' or 'better'.
udovdh - There is probably an interest in that patch within the taping community, but like I said above, I don't have enough knowledge on the subject to really understand the pros & cons.
I might look into a patch later. (I have a setup to build rockbox and knwo a bit of C)
Before going into the digital domain do whatever you can by analog means.
Later, on your DAW, you can do all the digital tricks you want with all precision you want.
Whatever gain is cleaner depends on the opamps or the software algorythms. Just don't do quick digital operations in the 16-bit domain.
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I haven't been running a pre before now anyway, but have used line transformers to boost the gain before the recorder. I plan on keeping the line transformers in the chain when using the iRiver to keep from having to boost the gain on the recorder too much. I may not even need the line transformers with the iRiver because I'm used to running into a recorder with 47KOhm impedance and the iRiver is only 10KOhm impedence from what I've read here.
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ok i just installed the bootloader and daily build...followed the directions to a T...everything took as it should have(i.e. .rockbox and .rockbox.iriver files are in place) but when i turned off and back on Rockbox is not loading. any ideas? thanks!!!
rockbox loader screen comes up
rockbox boot loader
version 6
batt: 3.99v
loading firmware
result: -1
then i get a screen that says total 0022 folders 0001 songs
please help. thanks!!!
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ok i just installed the bootloader and daily build...followed the directions to a T...everything took as it should have(i.e. .rockbox and .rockbox.iriver files are in place) but when i turned off and back on Rockbox is not loading. any ideas? thanks!!!
rockbox loader screen comes up
rockbox boot loader
version 6
batt: 3.99v
loading firmware
result: -1
then i get a screen that says total 0022 folders 0001 songs
please help. thanks!!!
try an older version of rockbox.
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an older daily build? how far back should i go? thanks!!!
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I mentioned it in the other thread you asked this q, but make sure your file and directory are in your root directory.
-1 means the bootloader can't find the files.
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I mentioned it in the other thread you asked this q, but make sure your file and directory are in your root directory.
-1 means the bootloader can't find the files.
how do i make sure? when i copied the hex file and unzipped the build, i just did it to the E: drive(140 drive). was i supposed to be more specific? thanks!!!
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So according to your posts over at rockbox you've got the files in a 'Rockbox' subdirectory. You need to move them to the root directory.
Plug your iriver in via USB to your computer.
Open Windows explorer.
Click on 'E:'. Double-click on the 'Rockbox' directory.
With your mouse highlight both the .rockbox directory and rockbox.iriver file.
Right click on the highlighted files, click 'cut'.
Click 'back' so you should now be in the root directory of the drive.
Right click on some white space in the main window of windows explorer.
Click paste.
That will copy and paste the files up one directory. That's where they need to be.
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Excellent instructions, whataboutbob. +T
and nice pot as well. 8)
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Thanks. Its protecting my mics from RF interference (and my thoughts from aliens)
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So according to your posts over at rockbox you've got the files in a 'Rockbox' subdirectory. You need to move them to the root directory.
Plug your iriver in via USB to your computer.
Open Windows explorer.
Click on 'E:'. Double-click on the 'Rockbox' directory.
With your mouse highlight both the .rockbox directory and rockbox.iriver file.
Right click on the highlighted files, click 'cut'.
Click 'back' so you should now be in the root directory of the drive.
Right click on some white space in the main window of windows explorer.
Click paste.
That will copy and paste the files up one directory. That's where they need to be.
thanks Bob!!! +T for sure. i'm up and running 8) what a great little box!!!
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Wondering if someone could educate me on the AGC function.
Currently, with my m1 (DAT) recorder, the recording level is adjusted with a dial. It is my understanding that this dial acts as an attenuator, and does not add or take away gain. I run it line-in, and the mic pre never comes into play. I have to use line transformers to add gain before going into the recorder in order to get good levels.
With the H1XX series recorder (with Rockbox; line-in), the recording level is adjusted via the AGC. This feature actually adds gain, therefore, you are utilizing the unit's mic pre. Correct? If the AGC setting is on zero and the levels are good, then you are not utilizing the unit's mic pre. Correct? If the AGC setting is below zero (negative), is the mic pre being utilized or is the unit just attenuating the signal?
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Gain control shouldn't be confused with AGC (Automatic Gain Control).
AGC is basically hands-free controlling of levels (controlled by pre-selected variables) which is still just a rockbox patch (ie it hasn't been committed to CVS).
Basically, yes, the iriver's pre is used to add gain. iirc the pre is not used if gain is set to zero. I believe digital decimation is used for negative gain, but I'm not 100%. Petur?
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Wondering if someone could educate me on the AGC function.
Currently, with my m1 (DAT) recorder, the recording level is adjusted with a dial. It is my understanding that this dial acts as an attenuator, and does not add or take away gain.
Line in can add 6 dB gain max?
I run it line-in, and the mic pre never comes into play. I have to use line transformers to add gain before going into the recorder in order to get good levels.
Even my simple mics with FET need attenuation so what are you using?!
Or why?
I mean: the setup can be more optimal w.r.t. size, signal handling, etc.
Kind regards,
Udo
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I use AT853 w/ 48v phantom power (they are the AT goosenecks that use the 853 capsules). When running my pcm-m1, I have to use the transformers or my signal strength isn't hot enough. Line-in impedance is 47KOhm on the m1. To Clarify: I only provide my mics with 48v. I do not use a pre. I use the A/D that's built into the recorder I use (this is the only drawback with me using the iRiver, IMO, because the iRiver's A/D isn't the same quality as the pcm-m1's A/D based on most opinions I've read).
Did some tests a little bit ago with the iRiver (using line transformers in the chain). Had to boost up the AGC in order to get good levels, however, in a loud SPL environment I'm hoping to keep the AGC on 0db so the mic pre doesn't come into play (i.e. I don't want to utilize the pre due to quality concerns).
Only problem so far: I was adjusting some settings while feeding the unit a signal (not recording) and it got stuck on a wav file that was in the root directory (acted like it was trying to play the file and just froze up). The PC wouldn't recognize the drive when using the USB. I hit the reset on the bottom of the unit and was able to power it back up without any problems. Didn't lose any files either. Very pleased with the iRiver w/ Rockbox so far, especially the meters! Hope to try it out in the field tonight for the first time.
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Didn't mean to be a thread killer :-\
Didn't get to try out my new h140 the other night, BTW, hopefully soon.
Another question for the experts:
Does the iRiver only record digital in via optical?
I've heard that there is a cable which carries spdif signals that is coax on one end and 3.5mm on the other. If I fed the iRiver a digital signal (spdif) via the 3.5mm input would it work?
Edited to add: For clarification, Rockbox firmware is being used.
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Another question for the experts:
Does the iRiver only record digital in via optical?
I've heard that there is a cable which carries spdif signals that is coax on one end and 3.5mm on the other. If I fed the iRiver a digital signal (spdif) via the 3.5mm input would it work?
Yeah I remember something a while back about a spdif dongle, but it's got to be for another model or a different brand all together. iRiver doesn't list anything like that as an accessory
EDIT: I think your thinking of the Archos recorder. They had some wierd adaptor to do spdif in.
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Thanks for a reply, Rick.
This thread: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=66392.msg890906#msg890906 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=66392.msg890906#msg890906)
brought the thought to mind, BTW.
Can anyone confirm that the 3.5mm input on the iRiver only works via the line-in (analog) source setting?
Edited to add: Here is the cable I was thinking of http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DCC-2 (http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DCC-2)
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Okay, I tried this and it didn't work, at least with what I used. I just had a two coax > two ring adaptor, not a three ring. I don't know if that will make a difference. I verified the coax signal from my DVD player with my MT. I was pretty sure even before the test that only optical had been addressed in the firmware and don't even think it was considered in the hardware when the iRiver was made.
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warning: line-in on the fly gain change can cause a small (3-5 samples, 3dB) dip. Most probably unnoticed but know that changing gain on the fly comes at a small price.
more info: http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=4834.msg36599#msg36599 (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=4834.msg36599#msg36599)
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Basically, yes, the iriver's pre is used to add gain. iirc the pre is not used if gain is set to zero. I believe digital decimation is used for negative gain, but I'm not 100%. Petur?
Analog (pre-amp) and decimation are used together to give a smooth 0.5dB gain resolution, the decimator part is always as small as possible.
The decimator acts on the full (24bit I think) signal before it is downsampled to 16bit, so quality-wise you shouldn't be worried too much I think.
The only thing that's not clear is how the negative gain can work unless the ADC is never used full scale - otherwise you'd just have a smaller but still clipped signal. Must check on that some time ;)
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Does the iRiver only record digital in via optical?
I've heard that there is a cable which carries spdif signals that is coax on one end and 3.5mm on the other. If I fed the iRiver a digital signal (spdif) via the 3.5mm input would it work?
digital recording is only via optical in, yes. line-in always goes via the ADC
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Thanks, Petur.
[h140 w/ rockbox]
I recorded two tracks recently (set 1 & 2). Set 2 copied to the harddrive on my pc with no problems.
Set 1 keeps getting a 'data error (cyclic redundancy check)' and will not transfer. Any suggestions?
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Try running chkdsk /f on the iRiver from the PC
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I've heard that there is a cable which carries spdif signals that is coax on one end and 3.5mm on the other.
Here is the cable I was thinking of http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DCC-2 (http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DCC-2)
The cable in question is a coax cable through and through, it just has an RCA connector on one side and a mini connector on the other. It does not transmit an optical signal, and so one cannot use it to feed a coax S/PDIF signal from an ADC to the optical S/PDIF input of the recorder. If you want to output a coax S/PDIF signal from your ADC and feed it to the recorder's optical S/PDIF input, you need a digital format converter (DFC) like the Hosa ODL-276. It converts coax S/PDIF signals to optical S/PDIF signals, and vice versa.
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Try running chkdsk /f on the iRiver from the PC
I ran chkdsk /r and was then able to transfer the file to my pc. It appears to be fine on first listen.
Brian,
I knew that the cable linked wouldn't carry an optical signal. I was just hoping that the iRiver would accept a digital input via the 1/8" jack. Discovered that all 1/8" input goes through the A/D via line-in. I'll probably buy a toslink > toslink cable for patching off of a UA-5 when not running my mics line-in (analog). The iRiver's A/D doesn't appear too shabby on first listen. Maybe not as good as my pcm-m1, but the other features the iRiver has makes it my recorder of choice for now (i.e no media, great levels, easy transfers).
Thanks for the help / suggestions.
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Bloody hell...petur's been fiddling with analog recording.
He just got 12 hours with his H3x0 (stock battery) by not boosting cpu during recording. :o
Figures should be roughly the same on H1x0's.
This means with my 2200mAh battery I think I'd get about 18 hours analog recording time. >:D
Nice work Petur!
This patch does not yet work with spdif recording.
Btw, the Rockbox 3.0 release has been delayed indefinitely largely due to a power-consumption issue with H3x0's. It looks like that problem may be close to (if not already) fixed, so hopefully that means 3.0 will be released soon.
The main impact of a 3.0 release, apart from having a recognised stable build, is that the feature freeze will be lifted. This means that developers who have been working on bug fixing will be released to work on new stuff, and developers who have been working on new stuff during the freeze will be able to commit their work.
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Btw, the Rockbox 3.0 release has been delayed indefinitely largely due to a power-consumption issue with H3x0's. It looks like that problem may be close to (if not already) fixed, so hopefully that means 3.0 will be released soon.
The power consumption issue has been fixed (by amiconn), that was one reason to test recording duration with my (unreleased) unboost patch. I try to commit it as soon as I get some free time.
As I have no h1x0, I can't debug the spdif with unboost.
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As I have no h1x0, I can't debug the spdif with unboost.
Is there anything we (those with H1x0's) can do to help?
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The only thing that's not clear is how the negative gain can work unless the ADC is never used full scale - otherwise you'd just have a smaller but still clipped signal. Must check on that some time ;)
Indeed, interesting problem.
I did look over the H1x0 schematics at the rockbox site, the input looks very basic. Did we overlook attenuation possibilities?
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just thought I'd give the faq a little bit of a polish.
...nothing too earth shattering. Largely just included some info unearthed in this thread.
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just thought I'd give the faq a little bit of a polish.
...nothing too earth shattering. Largely just included some info unearthed in this thread.
Just want to say thanks for putting the FAQ together. I just Rockbox'd my iRiver this morning and it came in quite handy. +t
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Thanks for the FAQ and all the help, bob. Thanks to all the developers (Petur, etc.) for your hard work. +T's all around.
You may consider adding to the FAQ maintenance section the steps for formatting the hd via the iRiver firmware. I had an issue while trying to format via windows xp today (kept hanging up) and was able to format via the iRiver firmware general menu successfully.
Also, be sure to drop by the team board occassionally. I plan on posting more questions / comments / experiences over there from now on to keep from cluttering up the FAQ thread.
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You may consider adding to the FAQ maintenance section the steps for formatting the hd via the iRiver firmware. I had an issue while trying to format via windows xp today (kept hanging up) and was able to format via the iRiver firmware general menu successfully.
Will do. I've actually something similar in the past too.
On another front, it looks like we'll have a patch pretty soon that enables a long REC press from the file browser or WPS to go directly to the recording screen. REC + PLAY will do the same, + start recording automatically:
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=4932.0
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Guys:
I'm psyched. After wasting my time to try and get my 4G Ipod to Record using Linux, I realized that it was a waste of time, and came to this site looking for the right answers.
After reading the wealth of info in this FAQ I was convinced that for the money I simply couldn't beat an iriver.
So I got me one from ebay for about $220. H140.
I'm hoping to have this ready for a music fest in 7 days.(High Sierra, CA) So even though I'm new, I was hoping for a few recommendations.
Being a closet musician of 20 years, I'm no stranger to recording but I've never tried it like this with portable gear. So now that I have my recorder:
1) I'm going to stick with analog for now: Can you recommend a beginner mic setup less than 100 bucks that I can get quickly?
2) What other quick start advice can you offer? Like a Tripod that can mount to my head or something?
Thanks for all the effort. I'm excited to capture some of the magic that I've seen in the last few years for later listening.
Zeke
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Gain control shouldn't be confused with AGC (Automatic Gain Control).
AGC is basically hands-free controlling of levels (controlled by pre-selected variables) which is still just a rockbox patch (ie it hasn't been committed to CVS).
Basically, yes, the iriver's pre is used to add gain. iirc the pre is not used if gain is set to zero. I believe digital decimation is used for negative gain, but I'm not 100%. Petur?
I feel like an idiot. Thanks Bob, this reply to one of my previous posts finally hit home. When I've been referencing the AGC in my posts, I have been meaning simple 'Gain Control'. I have never used AGC features (i.e. limiters) on any of my recorders and don't plan on it in the future.
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1) I'm going to stick with analog for now: Can you recommend a beginner mic setup less than 100 bucks that I can get quickly?
2) What other quick start advice can you offer? Like a Tripod that can mount to my head or something?
1). Can't think of a solution for less than a bill. Maybe a used Sony EMC or something. I would recommend a used set of AT853's if you would be willing to spend more.
2). If your open taping, you definitely want to get a stand that goes at least 8' high (12' even better). If your stealthing, try an 'in the hat' setup. You would get some very odd reactions taping with a tripod attached to your head :o
Edit: If open taping, you could also check into using a clamp with an extension arm / T-bar setup instead of buying a stand. This will limit you to depending on other people's stands & suitable clamping spots in the venue (handrails, poles, etc.)
Good Luck!
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After getting a partial refund of $100 for my defective H120, I went out and got a battery and a HD.
Replaced the old battery with a ipod 1G/2G 2200mAH battery sucessfully, using this vendor for around $13 delivered:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9734136003
Got an OEM bubble-pack Toshiba MK2004GAL which tested perfect with chkdsk and recording a half-dozen hour-long WAVs via the SPDIF from my modSBM (the root of my problems before) for $70 delivered.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9726301304
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Shaggy,
What vendor did you purchase your h120 from?
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What mics are compatible for direct into H-120 (have a hot enough signal to run line-in)
So fair I have heard these work well
CMC-2 (AT831)
CMC-8 (AT853)
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Guys:
I'm having trouble with getting rockbox to run, so I was hoping to cross-pollinate with my thread over at rockbox to get some help:
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=5020.0 (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=5020.0)
Short version: boot problem with rockbox. But they tell me that with a boot Result: 0 means that it's successful, but that's as far as it goes.
If anyone has had similar problems please help. I've got my "rig" such as it is on the way, but it won't do any good if I can't make this work by Wednesday.
Thanks,
Zeke
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Zeke,
I see you're from Santa Cruz (I'm in Felton) so I'll try to help you out.
One option would be to try another build of Rockbox rather than the latest daily build. Here's an old one, but one I know works for me:
http://homepage.mac.com/satterwill/rockbox-h120-20060327.zip
If you're still stuck, unfortunately I can't loan you my own iRiver (I need it for a show on Friday) but if you want to use my Gemini iKey, you're welcome to borrow it if you can make it up to the UCSC campus to pick it up. You'll need to provide your own USB thumb drive or hard drive, although the iRiver could probably serve that purpose if it still won't boot into Rockbox. I'll PM you with my cell # if you want to arrange that. I also have an Archos Jukebox recorder you can borrow if you want, it runs Rockbox so you'll learn the Rockbox interface, but it is limitied to mp3 recording (at 192 kbps). It's a handly all-in-one box like the iRiver though, easy to use, and it takes AA batteries so no problem making it through a festival.
You can also record using the iRiver firmware if you need to, you'll need to manually restart recording every 70 min or so, may get a few clicks, and settling levels is a pain, but it can be done.
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ihp120 + cell phone charger = bad
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ihp120 + cell phone charger = bad
See...I'm not making shit up. Be warned people. Its an easy mistake to make. Label your chargers clearly. I just got a post-it note and taped it near the plug.
+t for the bad luck mate.
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ihp120 + cell phone charger = bad
See...I'm not making shit up. Be warned people. Its an easy mistake to make. Label your chargers clearly. I just got a post-it note and taped it near the plug.
+t for the bad luck mate.
well, i, for one, won't make that mistake a second time.
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Anyone here tested the H1xx for bit accuracy on either stock or Rockbox firmware? If so, using what methodology, hardware, software tools, etc.? Just trying to nail down whether its bit accuracy is truly confirmed, or just assumed.
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ihp120 + cell phone charger = bad
See...I'm not making shit up. Be warned people. Its an easy mistake to make. Label your chargers clearly. I just got a post-it note and taped it near the plug.
+t for the bad luck mate.
I destroyed my cell phone by accidentally plugging in the iRiver charger. Frankly, I'm glad I learned by destroying my phone (bottom of the line Nokia) rather than my iRiver. I was actually aware of the risk, I just thought I was using the right charger. Now only one charger goes in the wall outlet at a time, and only when I'm charging the specific device.
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Anyone here tested the H1xx for bit accuracy on either stock or Rockbox firmware? If so, using what methodology, hardware, software tools, etc.? Just trying to nail down whether its bit accuracy is truly confirmed, or just assumed.
I've done some tests for bit accuracy, check the iRiver threads, I posted about it somewhere. Can't remember exactly off the top of my head, but I know I tested at 16/44k and 16/88.2k, not sure if I tested 16/48. Recorded I think about 5 minutes or so at each sampling frequency using my mics>V3 and then simultaneously to both my MT and my H140 using Rockbox. Trimmed and lined up the files as appropriate, inverted the MT track, and added together with the H140 track. Got a straight line at 0dbFS, no samples out of place.
I never did a long test, like 2 or 3 hours, but for my short test, the iRiver with rockbox is confirmed to be bit accurate. I suppose it might be worthwhile doing a long enough test to insure the iRiver remains bit accurate even during disk drive writes, but at least the hardware and firmware is set up for bit accuracy.
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If you tested for 5 minutes that included a disk write as there's a write about every 3.5 minutes (for 44/16, higher rates even shorter)
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Anyone here tested the H1xx for bit accuracy on either stock or Rockbox firmware? If so, using what methodology, hardware, software tools, etc.? Just trying to nail down whether its bit accuracy is truly confirmed, or just assumed.
I've confirmed bit accuracy at 16/44.1 for an hour. I fed a sine wave from my puter, then filtered the resultant wav at the sine frequency. Using this method in iriver f/w clearly shows regular glitches. Its fine in rockbox. I also tested similar to Todd R, but using a sine wav, trimmed, inverted and added with the same positive results.
For giggles I tried feeding it a 24/96 signal from my ua-5 the other night. I haven't had a look at the results yet but there was lots of clicking throughout the recording and it was saved at 16/96. It mustn' dither(?) from 24 > 16 properly.
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ihp120 + cell phone charger = bad
See...I'm not making shit up. Be warned people. Its an easy mistake to make. Label your chargers clearly. I just got a post-it note and taped it near the plug.
+t for the bad luck mate.
Sorry to hear about that mistake, rokpunk. This is the main reason why I mainly charge up my iriver using the custom USB cable now that I made... since I don't have any other items coming from my USB port with a DC plug, there's no mistake that can be made.
+T for your troubles.
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If you tested for 5 minutes that included a disk write as there's a write about every 3.5 minutes (for 44/16, higher rates even shorter)
Cool, Petur, thanks. Somehow I thought I read that disk writes were on the order of 8-10 minutes. I looked up my test files -- looks like they were in the 6-8 minute range.
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Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison of a HiMD vs h1x0? I'd be interested to see how the ADCs and pre's compare.
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If you tested for 5 minutes that included a disk write as there's a write about every 3.5 minutes (for 44/16, higher rates even shorter)
Cool, Petur, thanks. Somehow I thought I read that disk writes were on the order of 8-10 minutes. I looked up my test files -- looks like they were in the 6-8 minute range.
Todd, they are about 2:50 if you are recording at 16/44.1. The peak meter will stop registering for 9-12 seconds while the RAM is being flushed of its contents to the disk (it is 32MB of RAM and I bet almost 29MB is free for the buffer).
WAB, I want to do a side by side of the modSBM, M1's and the H120's A/D using a signal from my CD player. Normalize the same passage of music and then have them for hosting (Brian S, up for it?). Can anyone think of a short passage that will work for a comparison (no more than 30-40 sec)? I was thinking of a bit of 'Soundchaser' from Yes' Relayer.
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Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison of a HiMD vs h1x0? I'd be interested to see how the ADCs and pre's compare.
These last days I was busy asking many questions at the misticriver and minidisc forums to find out which would makes better quality recordings, the irver H120 or a HiMD. From what I found out I believe that the HiMDs do slightly superior, specially becasue less noise recordings because of better preamp and ADC than the iriver.
There are so many other reasons why I like the H120 better than an HiMD recorder though and it would serve my needs better.
If I understand correctly one can pass at least the preamp ( not the ADC ?? ) if using the optical in which now is working on Rockbox ( please correct me if this is wrong ) which than would allow for a recording quality comparable to the HiMDs.
Therefore please if anybody could explain to me:
How to use the optical in, specially if I want to record with an external mic?
Do I need a preamp?
Or even more concrete: Wwat will I need to get best result using my AT822 mic to the optical in of the iriver H120?
thank's for any advice
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You will need a pre like the UA5 with optical built in. You could also run a pre that does spdif and have an optical converter.
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going mic to optical in I obviously would need a preamp + digital converter...
forgive my innosence, but what is a spdif?
and there won't be any preamp + converter which is both small and cheap, or is there?
or how about a mod H120 using the preamp and ADC of an HiMD?
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forgive my innosence, but what is a spdif?
S/PDIF (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=465.0) is a standardized interface for passing digital audio data between two devices. When people use the terms coax and optical within the context of field audio recording gear, they usually mean: coax - S/PDIF implemented using electrical signals over a coaxial cable; optical - S/PDIF implemented by passing light signals over a fiber cable.
and there won't be any preamp + converter which is both small and cheap, or is there?
Depending on your definition of cheap and small, the Denecke AD-20 may fit the bill.
or how about a mod H120 using the preamp and ADC of an HiMD?
I don't know if that's even possible. It might be. But IMO, might as well just use MD outright.
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thank's a lot for your explaination, Brian.
I really like the H120 above all for it's storage and drag and drop functionality but I arrived to believe that the HiMDs do offer better quailty recordings. With the Denecke the H120 to opt.in should result in very good recordings, but as I could get both the H120 and an HiMD for the same money hardly an option for me.
Still wondering if the H120 would enable good enough recordings for my use - which is mixing the audio with my videos which means that the recordings end up being encoded in AC3 - or if it must be an HiMD.
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For your purposes, and with your mics (info sourced from other forums) I really wouldn't be concerned about the marginal difference between the H120 and HiMD pre and ADC. IMHO the iriver pros far outweigh the cons you're struggling with.
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For your purposes, and with your mics (info sourced from other forums) I really wouldn't be concerned about the marginal difference between the H120 and HiMD pre and ADC. IMHO the iriver pros far outweigh the cons you're struggling with.
That the differnce is so small that it won't matter for my use is kind of what I wished to hear!
thank's!!
Is the difference 'marginal' enough that I won't get disturbing noise if e.g. recording 'ambience' which could be e.g. rather quiet surrounds with birds singing? I do not have any preamp but will have an AT822 directly plugged in. My iFP-799 is far too noisy for this.
( since two days only I am proud owner of an AT822 )
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I am seeding the AD comp:
M1 vs modSBM vs JB3 vs H120
http://bt.etree.org/details.php?id=26910
Do not look at the text file if you want this to be truly a blind test! And vote in the poll before you look at the answers: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=67816.0
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+T shaggy.
I've been very interested in comparing these A/D's. Looking forward to seeing how those with 'golden ears' vote in the poll (and hoping that they really vote in the poll prior to reading the text file).
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Can someone help me with the installation of all this stuff. I dl'ed the "latest" daily build and the fwpatcher6, but I cannot find the bootloader. I keep getting "This Page Cannot Be Displayed." Anyone know of any other sites to get it from?
thanks
Mike
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Can someone help me with the installation of all this stuff. I dl'ed the "latest" daily build and the fwpatcher6, but I cannot find the bootloader. I keep getting "This Page Cannot Be Displayed." Anyone know of any other sites to get it from?
thanks
Mike
Yeah, it looks like the wiki is down. I have an iHP-120 that is itching to be rockbox'd too :)
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OK. So I have to wait to use this thing? Anyone know when wiki will be back up? Has it been down for a while, or is this just a fluke thing and my timing?
Thanks
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http://www.rockbox.org/
If you go down to the news part it reads...
2006-07-07: Site is back up again after a few days downtime due to yet another break-in/attack. The twiki parts are still disabled and will be brought back once we believe we have them "secured" properly.
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An official copy of the files of the wiki is located here:
http://daniel.haxx.se/twiki/ (http://daniel.haxx.se/twiki/)
The file you're looking for is here:
http://daniel.haxx.se/twiki/IriverBoot/ (http://daniel.haxx.se/twiki/IriverBoot/)
You can use the google cache of the wiki to ge the instructions ;)
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Thank you very much. Time to get this dang thing loaded and ready to go.
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Thanks for this FAQ, already found a lot of interesting stuff in it. :D
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Is there any way to take the 60gb HD out of my iPod photo and put that into an iRiver H120 and format it to work properly with rockbox?
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Is there any way to take the 60gb HD out of my iPod photo and put that into an iRiver H120 and format it to work properly with rockbox?
http://www.misticriver.net/ (http://www.misticriver.net/) has lots of info on this topic
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just wondering which daily build you all are running for optical support... i know after 5/9-ish the support was there, but i was looking for something known to be field stable between now and then...
i ask b/c it seems since the freeze was lifted there has been a lot of daily build activity and while i am sure it is most all for the good, as tapirs we have specific needs.
thanks in advance
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just wondering which daily build you all are running for optical support... i know after 5/9-ish the support was there, but i was looking for something known to be field stable between now and then...
i ask b/c it seems since the freeze was lifted there has been a lot of daily build activity and while i am sure it is most all for the good, as tapirs we have specific needs.
thanks in advance
I have not had any problems (line-in or digi-in) using the 07.07.06 daily build.
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just wondering which daily build you all are running for optical support... i know after 5/9-ish the support was there, but i was looking for something known to be field stable between now and then...
i ask b/c it seems since the freeze was lifted there has been a lot of daily build activity and while i am sure it is most all for the good, as tapirs we have specific needs.
thanks in advance
I have not had any problems (line-in or digi-in) using the 07.07.06 daily build.
thanks +t
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A friend just pointed out to me that the iSkin for the iriver units is on sale again. It's $5.99 + shipping for an iskin case, so for anyone who wants an iskin, it looks like the iron is hot so strike it while you can.
http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl
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Ok, I just got my iriver h120 and started to install the rockbox and discovered that I don't have a ROOT directory on my iriver. Do I need to merely create a ROOT folder? Am I missing a step? Did I not install something on the iriver?
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It will not be named 'root'. If your computer recognizes the h120 as drive 'g', for example, just drop the files into that drive. That is the root directory (i.e. don't put rockbox into a subfolder).
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Thanks for the tip. Now I have a new problem. I was messing around with the recording and now my screen and buttons are frozen. How do I turn this thing off with all the buttons frozen?
EDIT: Nevermind, apparently if it freezes, if you leave it alone for long enough it shuts down on its own.
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Thanks for the tip. Now I have a new problem. I was messing around with the recording and now my screen and buttons are frozen. How do I turn this thing off with all the buttons frozen?
On the bottom of the unit (you may have to remove any case to see it) is a small hole labelled "reset". Take a BLUNT small object (eg a paperclip or pen tip) press and hold until unit reboots. It will reset the unit.
Disclaimer: I've personally never lost any data when I've done a hard reset like that, although I suppose it's possible...
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Thanks for the tip. Now I have a new problem. I was messing around with the recording and now my screen and buttons are frozen. How do I turn this thing off with all the buttons frozen?
EDIT: Nevermind, apparently if it freezes, if you leave it alone for long enough it shuts down on its own.
It would help a lot if you could tell what you did to make the iriver freeze. So we can fix the bug ;)
Are you surte it wasn't temporarily (20-30 sec) unresponsive because it was flushing to disk?
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Ok, so I was listening to a show I transferred from my JB3 this morning and this thing froze again. I was trying to do the volume and touched the center button and the whole thing froze up. I was in play mode, moved the center button and it froze. Any ideas?
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Questions abt. recording source setting with Rockbox:
if selected 'mic' it is the internal mic only, yes?
if using an external mic I must select 'line', As I then can select the gain it means that the internal preamp is activated, yes?
if so, is there any way to bypass the built in preamp altogether using line-in ( or is this just a stupid question )
( I got confused because I have been using an iriver iFP-799 before, and there 'line-in' meant no gain, and mic-in meant external mic with selectable gain )
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Questions abt. recording source setting with Rockbox:
if selected 'mic' it is the internal mic only, yes?
if using an external mic I must select 'line', As I then can select the gain it means that the internal preamp is activated, yes?
if so, is there any way to bypass the built in preamp altogether using line-in ( or is this just a stupid question )
( I got confused because I have been using an iriver iFP-799 before, and there 'line-in' meant no gain, and mic-in meant external mic with selectable gain )
Yes. Mic-In means internal mic only.
Line-In enables the use of an external mic, but also enables the preamp. If you have the gain setting on 0dB, I would assume that the preamp is bypassed altogether. That is the only way I know of to 'bypass' the preamp via line-in.
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Ok, so I was listening to a show I transferred from my JB3 this morning and this thing froze again. I was trying to do the volume and touched the center button and the whole thing froze up. I was in play mode, moved the center button and it froze. Any ideas?
Haven't ever had that problem. Maybe try a different daily build. I'm still using 07.07.06 without any problems, FWIW.
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I'm using 08.05.06. I hope there isn't a glitch with it.
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I'm using 08.05.06. I hope there isn't a glitch with it.
It's very possible. Just try an older build and see what happens.
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I'm not aware of any glitches at the moment, playback should be quite stable.
So you were playing a big WAV file and hit the joystick.
- playback near the end of the file?
- pressed the joystick or hit it left/right (prev/next)?
It's always good to keep a 'last known stable' version somewhere, but I would encourage to keep up to date from time to time as bugs get fixed. But always test before going to a show ;)
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Why not use the patched build of the guys working on the Recording Enhancement Pack (REP)? Go to Rockbox forums, find the iRiver section, then find the thread that discusses the Recording Enhancement Pack. In the very first post, or in the sig of one of the main developers who posts all over that thread, you will find a link to a build that includes the REP. It's got some cool extra features including a historical levels chart, a balance gage, and AGC functionality. Now, while the AGC functionality will probably be turned off for most of us, there is one useful setting called "Safety" that will only turn down the gain by .5 db if clipping occurs and then it leaves the gain alone. That's kind of a nice feature for stealthing. I mean, you hope you set you levels right to begin with, but it sure is nice to know that the unit will turn down the gain for you if you are clipping. This build is of course probably not as stable, but I think it's proven itself enough to be worthy. Anyone else using a build with the REP patched in?
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Petur: Big wav files freeze up on me semi-regularly, but I'm using 060719 (just after freeze lifted I think). I pretty much just have to try to rewind and she freezes up. I thought there were known issues with big wav file playback so I didn't bother reporting.
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I'm not aware of any glitches at the moment, playback should be quite stable.
So you were playing a big WAV file and hit the joystick.
- playback near the end of the file?
- pressed the joystick or hit it left/right (prev/next)?
It's always good to keep a 'last known stable' version somewhere, but I would encourage to keep up to date from time to time as bugs get fixed. But always test before going to a show ;)
Well, it wasn't really big. It was about 39 minutes. About 300 megs. I was trying to turn the volume down and accidently pushed down on the joystick and it just froze up.
Also, I was recording an hour 1/2 long show from my JB3 and the levels disappeared and acted as if I was stopping then started back up again. The time jumped forward as if it recorded the missing section(which it did do). Anyone else experience the phenomenon?
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that's normal during buffer-writes.
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that's normal during buffer-writes.
I found myself like 3 times out of 10 looking at the remote with the peak display blank when I needed to check levels (either incredibly bad luck or it is something that needs to be fixed). I did about 14 hours worth of taping the other weekend at Fuji Rock and it was mildly frustrating.
Oh, no remote noise associated with the remote with SPDIF in. I was just seeing the Lemosax and modSBM noise floor (certainly not the mk4v's noise floor).
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There is no known patch or work-around.
This sounds far more aggressive than i intend it, but please be careful with your "tone" shaggy. I'm confident you didn't mean to sound demanding...but remember that rockbox is an open-source project. All developers are volunteers. Remember that iriver firmware has no recording levels whatsoever, and without the rb guys the iriver is pretty much useless as a taping tool. If you were to post that something "needs to be fixed" over at rockbox.org then you would be welcomed to learn the code and pitch in.
Off the top of my head, at 16/44.1 the buffer write takes about 14 seconds approximately every 2:50 mins...so yeah...3 out of 10 is pretty unlucky. I've found it marginally inconvenient at times...but not enough to annoy me. Would i prefer it worked all the time? Absolutely. Has it been looked at extensively by the rockbox developers? Yes. With any results? No. I wouldn't be shocked if it could be "fixed", perhaps at the expense of battery life, but I'm no developer so I'm likely talking out of my proverbial.
Petur: anything to add? Prolly should take this discussion over to rb anyways...
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WAB, Yeah, I been spanked a few times already on the RB forums and at the mistic river forums. I guess we are a little brash over here, tho I consider myself pretty tame and polite compared to others. I am really grateful for what they've done (I ditched the JB3 for two H120s). Things will continue to improve, it is open sourced as you mentioned and some people's hobbies seem to lean towards tinkering at the code level to perfect things. I edited the comment so the developers reading this will not get pissed off at us.
I had issues reading the levels due to me not having the two H120s I was working with set on the same scale. So I suppose I was looking more frequently than I usually do at the meters.
Which brings me to ask, what do people set their scales and the min and max if they are using the log scale (in lin mode, it defaults to 0-100%). I find the linear scale a bit more open between -12 and 0, much like the way the M1 meters are set up.
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Petur: anything to add? Prolly should take this discussion over to rb anyways...
The levels are sampled by the same task that does the sample conversion (to prepare for writing to file) and the writing to disk itself if the buffer gets full. So when it starts writing to disk, there are no new peak samples...
So this is a design feature at the moment, nothing much to do about it at the moment (meaning: changing it is not a simple fix).
I must admit that the missing peak info is a little inconvenient but that's life for now
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Which brings me to ask, what do people set their scales and the min and max if they are using the log scale (in lin mode, it defaults to 0-100%). I find the linear scale a bit more open between -12 and 0, much like the way the M1 meters are set up.
Shaggy - I set mine up at -12 & 0. I've read that there was a levels enhancement put in around 07.04.06 that was beneficial if you use that setting as well.
General comment directed at nobody - I have found that the levels are VERY responsive, and much better than many recorders out there, IMO. The fact that you lose levels while writing the buffer is no biggie to me. Once I set them, I try to not be so paranoid about it and checking them all the time. I will look occassionally to see if the light has come on due to clipping, but that's it. The soundman should have everything dialed in by the second or third song anyway. People that are overly paranoid about clipping can always run the levels conservatively and just normalize in post. My .02
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So is anyone else running with the REP installed? If so, what build/patch is most stable with REP?
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So is anyone else running with the REP installed? If so, what build/patch is most stable with REP?
I have not, and have not planned on running the REP personally. No help here.
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I've been running an H120 for a few weeks now and found the FAQ invaluable.
I particularly like the ease of use, the recording buffer, the size, the way you can flip the screen 180°, and that it plays FLAC files.
The question I have concerns gain. On a JB3, I read that gain is digital, and was (more or less) useless.
Is this the case on the H120? Should I set it at zero and add it in in post, or try and set correct gain in the field?
Does it increase the noise floor?
Apologies if this question has been answered somewhere else..
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Up to 24dB gain in 3dB increments is analog. Between the 3dB increments are .5dB digital steps. 24dB upwards is digital. In my experience, if you have a choice between the analog iriver gain and post, I'd go iriver up to 24dB. I've rarely (well...twice) had to use more than that...both times with a remote attached to my regret, so its not a fair comparison.
Ages ago I read a damn good reason to use iriver digital gain over post, but I can't for the life of me recall why...was it something to do with bitrate...? Gah...anyone care to step in?
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So, is it fair to say that the remote puts diginoise in your recordings EVERY time you use it? Does it matter if you're running analog or digital in?
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Up to 24dB gain in 3dB increments is analog. Between the 3dB increments are .5dB digital steps. 24dB upwards is digital. In my experience, if you have a choice between the analog iriver gain and post, I'd go iriver up to 24dB. I've rarely (well...twice) had to use more than that...both times with a remote attached to my regret, so its not a fair comparison.
Ages ago I read a damn good reason to use iriver digital gain over post, but I can't for the life of me recall why...was it something to do with bitrate...? Gah...anyone care to step in?
Thanks for the reply, makes sense now! +t
I guess the FAQ will eventually end up in the archive?
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Up to 24dB gain in 3dB increments is analog. Between the 3dB increments are .5dB digital steps. 24dB upwards is digital. In my experience, if you have a choice between the analog iriver gain and post, I'd go iriver up to 24dB. I've rarely (well...twice) had to use more than that...both times with a remote attached to my regret, so its not a fair comparison.
Ages ago I read a damn good reason to use iriver digital gain over post, but I can't for the life of me recall why...was it something to do with bitrate...? Gah...anyone care to step in?
So, this to me says whenever possible stay between 0 and 24 gain and do it in steps divisible by 3. That rule will keep you purely in the analog gain world. I can see some benefit to digitally scaling down from the 3 db steps to get .5 steps, but I can't think of any reason why I'd want to use digital gain above 24 db ever -- I can do that in post, and I can probably do it with much higher-end algorithms and less quantization noise (especially if I'm doing any other processing in addition to normalizing). But, that is good info to know. In fact, I'd love to be able to set some bounds on the gain like from 0 to 24 (nothing higher and nothing lower, because either seems pretty pointless too me, but maybe I'm missing something here?).
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So is anyone else running with the REP installed? If so, what build/patch is most stable with REP?
I'm using REP, but i don't have the 120 w/ me right now, so i can't report the build/patch. works great for me.
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Here is a link to the thread about the REP. The creator of the pack created it. You will notice in his sig there is always a link to the precompiled version he uses. Since there was a rockbox enhancement freeze I would always stay current with the REP build since the changes were not all included in rockbox. Not sure if they are in there now since the freeze has been lifted. Below is the link... I've never had problems with his builds (and have confidence in it since he runs it himself).
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2513.0 (http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2513.0)
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I think mmmm's AGC is gonna get committed.
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Ages ago I read a damn good reason to use iriver digital gain over post, but I can't for the life of me recall why...was it something to do with bitrate...? Gah...anyone care to step in?
Not ages ago ;)
The reason is that the decimator works on the internal ADC data, which is >16bit. It's only after this process that the data is converted to 16bit and transferred to the main cpu (which buffers and writes to disk).
I think mmmm's AGC is gonna get committed.
We're working on it ;)
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well..."ages" by my memory which..well...compares unfavourably to a goldfish's.
So there you go tho folks...digital decimation may still be better than post. How can we do a comparison?
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AGC is now in CVS...which means it'll be in the daily builds. I'm yet to use it...but the safety function looks promising for stealthers. iirc it simply decreases gain when a user-prescribed period of clipping is detected.
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NOTE: recording keyhandling code has been upgraded this weekend (not by me), haven't tested myself but it should be working. Just be warned that you check everything out when upgrading to the latest version.
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Anyone know if it is possible to record an RM broadcase from this unit to itself? IE: if I am listening to FM, can I record to the iRiver as well?
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Anyone know if it is possible to record an RM broadcase from this unit to itself? IE: if I am listening to FM, can I record to the iRiver as well?
it is possible in non rockboxed units, i dont know about the RB though... i am still figuring out this thing... it sure is nice
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It is possible in rockbox. I forget how tho, cos I don’t listen to radio (helpful, I know).
I think you go into the FM screen then go into the recording screen (via A-B button) while radio is still on…*shrug*
If that doesn’t work, search the rockbox and/or misticriver forums…I’ve seen posts on how to do it there.
Oh, btw, there’s now a ‘recording’ sub-forum in the rockbox forums…kinda cool.
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I think you got it right, Bob. I've only tried it once, though. Definitely can be done with Rockbox.
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yes, go to the radio screen first, tune to the station you like. Then go to recording without leaving the radio screen first so the radio keeps playing. In the recording screen, make sure you have source set to line-in
Radio recording is going to move to the radio screen itself sooner or later....
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yes, go to the radio screen first, tune to the station you like. Then go to recording without leaving the radio screen first so the radio keeps playing. In the recording screen, make sure you have source set to line-in
Radio recording is going to move to the radio screen itself sooner or later....
Thanks for the info, I will have to test it out tomorrow. A local FM plays live SBD shows, and I always forget to turn on the radio > PC @ home before I leave for work, so this is a good backup!
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yes, go to the radio screen first, tune to the station you like. Then go to recording without leaving the radio screen first so the radio keeps playing. In the recording screen, make sure you have source set to line-in
Radio recording is going to move to the radio screen itself sooner or later....
This should be an FAQ entry. I was unable to figure it out, since the Source only lists SPDIF, mic, line in (but not specifically from the built-in radio).
And the official Rockbox manual doesn't mention it either, the radio section completely omits this information:
http://download.rockbox.org/manual/rockbox-h100/rockbox-buildch4.html#x6-510004.9.2
/Jan
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Thank you so much for this! Now that I have my iRiver, this made it a damn breeze to get up and running. Big +T!
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this is very helpful!!!!!
+T and Thanks,
Matt
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No sweat guys. Glad you find it useful.
Jeebus....Mmmm (one of the main rockbox developers behind iriver recording) has updated his REP build (rb forum) to allow up to so size 20 font on the recording screen...which translates to very thick peakmeters. I've got Gomez over the next 3 nights tho so I don't have time to test...so I dare note upgrade just yet.
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I have another question though. does anyone know if the ihp-120 will work off the charger without the battery installed? Reason I asked is that I took a chance on one without battery on fleabay and the battery won't be here for about a week after the irver gets here. I will be hacking an adaptor but no worries on the polarity... I will test thouroughly. Thanks for the negative tip! (pun intended)
Matt
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No sweat guys. Glad you find it useful.
Jeebus....Mmmm (one of the main rockbox developers behind iriver recording) has updated his REP build (rb forum) to allow up to so size 20 font on the recording screen...which translates to very thick peakmeters. I've got Gomez over the next 3 nights tho so I don't have time to test...so I dare note upgrade just yet.
Hmm. I need to check out the REP and that is promising.
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No sweat guys. Glad you find it useful.
Jeebus....Mmmm (one of the main rockbox developers behind iriver recording) has updated his REP build (rb forum) to allow up to so size 20 font on the recording screen...which translates to very thick peakmeters. I've got Gomez over the next 3 nights tho so I don't have time to test...so I dare note upgrade just yet.
I saw that yesterday and was tempted, but I'm heading off to Bumbershoot for a massive tapefest and don't want to risk my hella-stable current REP intall... So, I'm with you on that front, but I'm dying for a larger font and peak meters!
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oh, and by the by, it looks like recording to other codecs is coming soon too...WV and MP3
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=6152.msg47624#new
BayTaper: Peakmeter height is now configurable by the sounds of it, thanks to your question. Up to 8x,. That's just getting silly. :)
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************************************************************************
* *
* iriver H1xx Tapers FAQ *
* 2006 July 11 - v0.89 (beta) *
* *
************************************************************************
[140] Can I use any battery charger with my player, because my Nokia charger fits?
Warning: By far the most common method of killing irivers is by people using the wrong charger. This fries the circuitry, rendering the H1xx useless. Nokia chargers in particular are the scourge of iriver owners everywhere. All it takes is a minute of absent-mindedness, and your toy is dead. My recommendation is to clearly label your iriver charger and to use only that charger, and checking it every single time you go to plug in the charger.
If you truly must use another charger, ensure it converts line voltage to 5VDC at 2 Amps, centre positive, tip negative (there’s an image demonstrating this on the back of the iriver).
I found a little error... you almost got me here!!!! It is correct at the bottom though.
[430] What about external power?
Lots of options for external DC power. The iriver runs on 5v external power, tip (+), ring (-). Only catch is there aren't really any batteries out there that natively provide 5v of power. Soooo...best bets are to take a battery which provides more than 5v of power and [1] regulate its output to 5v, or [2] build a battery pack which outputs ~5v.
otherwise so far so good!!!
matt
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What is WV?
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FWIW, the external battery pack (taking 4 AA batteries) runs fine with the iriver... the slight voltage difference is not harmful, based on my own experience and from what I've read at misticriver forums.
slimer: WV = WavPack file (lossless compression scheme, similar to FLAC files)
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FWIW, the external battery pack (taking 4 AA batteries) runs fine with the iriver... the slight voltage difference is not harmful, based on my own experience and from what I've read at misticriver forums.
slimer: WV = WavPack file (lossless compression scheme, similar to FLAC files)
4AAs meaning fresh 1.5V alkalines (and not sub 1.5V NiMH)? I measured the output of the 2 iriver AC adapters I have and they output 5.4V (not 5.0V as written on the AC adapter itself).
About WavPack, it seems like it is CPU intensive and will shorten battery life as a result. Seems like they committed the new on the fly recording/encoding patch with a new WAV codec called wav_enc.codec.
There are seven mp3 bitrate settings: 64, 96,128,160,192,224,320
WV is ~900 kBit/s
WAV is of course 1411 but now uses wav_enc.codec.
http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=6152.msg47643#msg47643
FWIW, I have had no issues with the CVS build 20060717.
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************************************************************************
* *
* iriver H1xx Tapers FAQ *
* 2006 July 11 - v0.89 (beta) *
* *
************************************************************************
[140] Can I use any battery charger with my player, because my Nokia charger fits?
Warning: By far the most common method of killing irivers is by people using the wrong charger. This fries the circuitry, rendering the H1xx useless. Nokia chargers in particular are the scourge of iriver owners everywhere. All it takes is a minute of absent-mindedness, and your toy is dead. My recommendation is to clearly label your iriver charger and to use only that charger, and checking it every single time you go to plug in the charger.
If you truly must use another charger, ensure it converts line voltage to 5VDC at 2 Amps, centre positive, tip negative (there’s an image demonstrating this on the back of the iriver).
I found a little error... you almost got me here!!!! It is correct at the bottom though.
[430] What about external power?
Lots of options for external DC power. The iriver runs on 5v external power, tip (+), ring (-). Only catch is there aren't really any batteries out there that natively provide 5v of power. Soooo...best bets are to take a battery which provides more than 5v of power and [1] regulate its output to 5v, or [2] build a battery pack which outputs ~5v.
otherwise so far so good!!!
matt
eek. thanks mate. fixed.
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4AAs meaning fresh 1.5V alkalines (and not sub 1.5V NiMH)? I measured the output of the 2 iriver AC adapters I have and they output 5.4V (not 5.0V as written on the AC adapter itself).
About WavPack, it seems like it is CPU intensive and will shorten battery life as a result. Seems like they committed the new on the fly recording/encoding patch with a new WAV codec called wav_enc.codec.
...
FWIW, I have had no issues with the CVS build 20060717.
RE: WavPack, I like that codec a lot myself. But I'd still not use it... on the off chance that my iriver died while recording, seems like it would be easier to recover a WAV file with an improperly written header, rather than a WavPack (or other compressed) file.
RE: the AAs, either alkalines or NiMH. There's not a huge difference in 6V vs. the ~5.4V from the wall AC adaptor. And I did measure my NiMH fresh off being charged, at 5.96V, and no problems at all. I would imagine there's some slight "leeway" on the voltage amount accepted. Now, if you tried running 9V or more, you're probably dancing on ice. :o
I, too, use CVS build 20060717 with no issues (knock on wood).
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4AAs meaning fresh 1.5V alkalines (and not sub 1.5V NiMH)? I measured the output of the 2 iriver AC adapters I have and they output 5.4V (not 5.0V as written on the AC adapter itself).
I am using 4 rechargable AAs in my external pack, rechargables usualy only got 1,2 Volts, 4x1,2V = 4,8V and it does fine.
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I´m thinking of buying an Australian(240V) iriver h120 on ebay, BUT i live in Austria 230V. I guess the power-issue(230v/240V) won´t be a problem with the adapter, but I am planning to use rockbox for recording concerts.
Is there ANYTHING I should take into consideration using an Australian H120 with Rockbox here in Europe or will all be fine?! ;)
Thanks for your input!
Arni
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Could be that the Australian adapter is made for 240 Volts only ( mine I bought in Japan and the adapter it came with accepts 110 - 250 Volts ) but that certainly includes 220 and 230 Volts, so to my knowledge you will not have ANY issue with your Australian iRiver at all!
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...you'll just need an adapter to convert to the correct pins...
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I used my H120 for the first time on Friday night and during the day on sat. I ran the H120 w/o a glitch and I'm loving it.
I listened to my recorded files through headphones yesterday and they all played and sounded great.
Now the problem. I connected the H120 via USB to my PC, and was copying the files I recorded to my desktop. The first file transfered just fine, but the rest wont copy. I tried doing just one at a time, but when the other 3 files get about 75% done copying, it doesnt go any further and after about 5 minutes I get this error message:
Cannot copy Rec_0002: Data Error (cyclic redundancy check)
Anyone else ever have this problem. I read through the FAQ here and didnt see it mentioned anywhere.
TIA
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Have you tried doing a disk defrag and or repair (I cant remember the menu options).
There has been some discission about the defragging of the drive in the thread, not sure what made it to the FAQ qirectly.
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I used my H120 for the first time on Friday night and during the day on sat. I ran the H120 w/o a glitch and I'm loving it.
I listened to my recorded files through headphones yesterday and they all played and sounded great.
Now the problem. I connected the H120 via USB to my PC, and was copying the files I recorded to my desktop. The first file transfered just fine, but the rest wont copy. I tried doing just one at a time, but when the other 3 files get about 75% done copying, it doesnt go any further and after about 5 minutes I get this error message:
Cannot copy Rec_0002: Data Error (cyclic redundancy check)
Anyone else ever have this problem. I read through the FAQ here and didnt see it mentioned anywhere.
TIA
I've had problems moving files if my battery didn't have a goodl charge. Although I'm using an underpowered (300 MaH) hacked charger. If I let the battery get charged for awhile it works fine.
Matt
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I tried doing just one at a time, but when the other 3 files get about 75% done copying, it doesnt go any further and after about 5 minutes I get this error message:
Cannot copy Rec_0002: Data Error (cyclic redundancy check)
Anyone else ever have this problem. I read through the FAQ here and didnt see it mentioned anywhere.
TIA
This error is indicative of a bad hard drive. I discussed the problems I had related to the CRC error in detail here and on the rockbox forum. It should come up in a search.
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recently, I did it my first sbd recording with the h120 and use the gain control to avoid to clip, i recorded at -6db, this really avoid a very hot signal from SBD or it's necessary to use attenuators? any experience on SBD recording with this wonderful toy?
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am i fucked >:( >:( >:( >:( i think i just plugged my power runner charger into my h120. now i can't get it to power on. when plugged in the charge light comes on, but won't power on. i think i tried the reset on the bottom but nothing yet. please help. i have at least 10 gigs on the drive from this weekend. is this something i can send to iriver for them to fix even though it has been rockboxed. FUCK
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am i fucked?
Sorry mate but unfortunately you are most likely fucked. iriver doesn't repair these units. If you're handy with a soldering iron then there's a recent thread over at misticriver about salvaging 'em...but it really depends how badly fried it is: http://www.misticriver.net/showthread.php?t=44799 (I think mr may be down atm tho...I can't seem to get to it.)
Either way, the hdd may be salvageable. If you know someone else with an iriver its a simple enough operation to swap the hdds around to salvage the recordings.
If your unit is still under warranty then I'd plug the wrong charger back in for another 12 hours just to ensure everything's nicely toasted (and rockbox can't be found) then send it back to iriver for a "replacement". I doubt they'll have any h120's in stock, but you may be able to get a h320...i guess that's not much use with yer ad20 tho... :(
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recently, I did it my first sbd recording with the h120 and use the gain control to avoid to clip, i recorded at -6db, this really avoid a very hot signal from SBD or it's necessary to use attenuators? any experience on SBD recording with this wonderful toy?
I got my first SBD pull about a week ago, and used my iriver for the job. I'm not sure how much help the following information will be, though...
I ran dual RCA outputs (consumer line output level, at -10 dBv) and set the iriver gain to +6. The recording turned out great with no distortion, peaks hitting -6 dB.
During the opening act, the sound guy tuned the output to a nice moderate level (and he did NOT change it at all from that point forward) for me so I could set the iriver to go ahead and start the recording then. It ran for ~3 hours with no problem at all.
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I just wanted everyone to know that the iSkin is still on sale for 5.99USD. This is the best cover for your iRiver out there IMO. I have 3 iRivers and all of them have iSkins on them.
http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl (http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl)
Size A = H120
Size B = H140
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I just wanted everyone to know that the iSkin is still on sale for 5.99USD. This is the best cover for your iRiver out there IMO. I have 3 iRivers and all of them have iSkins on them.
http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl (http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl)
Size A = H120
Size B = H140
yeah, I saw that last week. should have waited a week or so to order mine >:(
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I got my first SBD pull ......
What exactly is a "pull"?
Can women do it too? or is it a man thing?
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I just wanted everyone to know that the iSkin is still on sale for 5.99USD. This is the best cover for your iRiver out there IMO. I have 3 iRivers and all of them have iSkins on them.
http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl (http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl)
Size A = H120
Size B = H140
if shipping cost to Europe would not be 15,55, making a total of 21.54.....
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I just wanted everyone to know that the iSkin is still on sale for 5.99USD. This is the best cover for your iRiver out there IMO. I have 3 iRivers and all of them have iSkins on them.
http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl (http://www.iskin.com/store/I2shop_irvr1XX.tpl)
Size A = H120
Size B = H140
if shipping cost to Europe would not be 15,55, making a total of 21.54.....
Yeah, but they used to be 24.99 + shipping. :o
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any suggestions which manual gain setings to use for my 1st iriver h120 stealth-session next monday in vienna with rockbox-firmware...latest build?
it´s a pearl jam concert in a big indoor arena.
i use sp-cmc-8 cardioid mics and a 9V-mm-mint-box with 7 bass-roll-off options on the iriver´s line-in.
i have absolutley no idea which gain-setting would be safe for loud rock concerts as I´m used to minidisc line-in recordings where the optimum was at 12-13 of 30 on the scale ;) !
thx in advance
arni from vienna
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i have absolutley no idea which gain-setting would be safe for loud rock concerts as I´m used to minidisc line-in recordings where the optimum was at 12-13 of 30 on the scale ;) !
Isn't that what Tarantula Ad are for? :)
Keep your remote plugged in for them and sneak peaks at the levels during the loudest parts of the show and adjust accordingly. Err on the side of too low. Once you clip it can't be repaired, but you can always boost afterwards.
edit: btw...just wanted to say...that I am so smart...s, m, r, t. I'm now the proud owner of a H160...after i bought a 60 gig drive off ebay for less than $50 and swapped it into my h140.
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i got my ih120 without remote ;).
is the remote-clicking issue solved yet with the latest builds?
thx
arni
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edit: btw...just wanted to say...that I am so smart...s, m, r, t. I'm now the proud owner of a H160...after i bought a 60 gig drive off ebay for less than $50 and swapped it into my h140.
whatboutbob, who sells them on Ebay? I would like to have a 2nd unit with 60 GB and a long life battery! (also tips for battery sellers will be appreciated :))
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edit: btw...just wanted to say...that I am so smart...s, m, r, t. I'm now the proud owner of a H160...after i bought a 60 gig drive off ebay for less than $50 and swapped it into my h140.
whatboutbob, who sells them on Ebay? I would like to have a 2nd unit with 60 GB and a long life battery! (also tips for battery sellers will be appreciated :))
If you're after a 60gig hdd that will work/fit in the h140:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=MK6006GAH
I won one of bidtosucceed's 'not tested' auctions (she's got a couple up there atm...one that's ending in 12 hours)...the drive works flawlessly...ymmv.
For batteries...ermm...i bought mine out of hong kong...they all seem much of a muchness...just search for model # UP3253854H i guess...
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nice, thanks a lot :) the new ones are so expensive, better take the risk with a 'not tested' one, the price is good ;D
will it work with an h120 aswell?
the batteries are the ones from iPod 2nd gen, right?
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nice, thanks a lot :) the new ones are so expensive, better take the risk with a 'not tested' one, the price is good ;D
will it work with an h120 aswell?
the batteries are the ones from iPod 2nd gen, right?
I believe the hardrive in the h140 is a 'double platter' and the one in the h120 is a single (that's why the dimesions are different between the h120 & h140). Based on that information, I don't believe that the 60 gig would fit in the h120. That is purely speculation, and maybe whatboutbob or someone else can clarify.
The batteries are from the 1st & 2nd gen iPods. I believe most people are upgrading to the 2200maH from the stock battery.
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yep, that's why I asked, I was almost sure the 140 is slightly bigger...
about the batteries: the model number doesn't include an "A" between the "5" and the "4"?? that's what I've found searching on Ebay...
cgrooves, what times you get with the 2200 ones? I get almost the 16 'normal' hours playing and something around 8 recording (or maybe more, haven't checked it in detail) with the stock battery on my h120
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cgrooves, what times you get with the 2200 ones? I get almost the 16 'normal' hours playing and something around 8 recording (or maybe more, haven't checked it in detail) with the stock battery on my h120
My 2200 hasn't arrived yet. My stock battery hasn't let me down, but I can tell that it has some age. My stock battery is giving me approx. 10hrs playback & 5 hours recording, so I'm upgrading. Not really necessary, but with a 2200mah replacement for $20 shipped how can you go wrong?
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FWIW, with the 2200 mah battery upgrade, I get at least 12 hours, and have gotten up to 14 hours, of record time. Playback is somewhere between 24 and 30 hours per charge, for my h140.
For those doing the battery upgrade, just take your time. There are some small plastic pieces that sometimes want to "jump out" of the iriver. ;D And like I've said before, i found it easier to swap the molex connectors (take the one off the original iriver battery and put it on the 2200 mah upgrade battery); that was easier for me than shaving off a piece of the molex connector on the 2200 mah battery. Oh, and be sure to get the polarity of the wires correct as well.
Hail to the hackers.
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wow, 12 hours of record time cover a whole festival (12 bands, 1 hour each...that's more than I'm interested in at any festival :)). And the playback time is fantastic too!! thanks, hyperplane :)
About do it myself...ufff, that's more difficult, I'm sure I will lost all those little plastic pieces and screw every connector ;D And your idea is much better than shave off pieces!
Just need to find a cheap unit off Ebay with all working except the HD, I won't touch my working new h120 ;)
And sure, cgrooves, maybe we don't need it (well, you a bit, your unit has lost some, though is enough anyway), but who can resist upgrading the battery for $20? :)
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It is sweet battery life.
The other day I decided to go to a local show on a whim. My iriver only had 25% of its battery charge (I have my battery life displayed as a percentile, vs. the icon/picture to display current battery life). I recorded 3 hours (opening band + main act) and still had 10% charge remaining after the show was over.
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I believe the hardrive in the h140 is a 'double platter' and the one in the h120 is a single (that's why the dimesions are different between the h120 & h140). Based on that information, I don't believe that the 60 gig would fit in the h120. That is purely speculation, and maybe whatboutbob or someone else can clarify.
all correct.
the dual platters are 8mm thick, the single platters only 5mm, make sure you check this. Some have managed to cram a dual platter drive into a h120/h320 by removing the protective (blue) foam, but I rather have some shock protection around my disk.
I'm waiting to do a battery upgrade when the 80gig disks become available and a little less expensive ;)
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What size disk drive is the largest that will physically fit (correctly) into the h120?
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OK, so my iRiver has been working fine for the last week.
I just tried a sample recording on it, and when I pressed stop to end the recording, all hell broke loose. The unit froze, so I did a reset, and now I can't fully format or anything. It just hangs during format, and it won't boot into rockbox, it tries to, and then some message "return -4" comes up and it goes back into the iRiver firmware.
Any suggestions? If it's fucked, I'm going to try and get my money back from the ebay seller -- or worst case, file a report with ebay/paypal if that will get me anywhere.
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OK, so my iRiver has been working fine for the last week.
I just tried a sample recording on it, and when I pressed stop to end the recording, all hell broke loose. The unit froze, so I did a reset, and now I can't fully format or anything. It just hangs during format, and it won't boot into rockbox, it tries to, and then some message "return -4" comes up and it goes back into the iRiver firmware.
Any suggestions? If it's fucked, I'm going to try and get my money back from the ebay seller -- or worst case, file a report with ebay/paypal if that will get me anywhere.
Ok, got it working... formatted from within the original firmware. Weird..... hopefully it doesn't fuck up like this during a real show.
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berg - what version of rockbox are you running?
I'm running 2006-06-17 with no problems (knock on wood). I'm sure others are running various other (more recent) versions. I simply haven't updated because everything's running fine so far, so why screw with something that's working okay?
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i´m running Mmmmm´s version from the http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2513.555 .
u can find it in his signature!
right now(22.Sept 2006) its a 13.Sept.2006 build with various patches.
no errors whilst recording in wav or mp3.....recorded 7 hours in mp3 last night from FM-source.
concerning the Pearl Jam show next monday i just printed this statement...if the securities don´t "behave" as they are supposed to ;D:
http://www.sonymusic.com/artists/PearlJam/tour/taping.html
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What size disk drive is the largest that will physically fit (correctly) into the h120?
If you can find them: a 40GB single platter disk (MK4009GAL, MK4007GAL), else a 30GB single platter.
Those have a thickness of 5mm.
look here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=810000000007000000010000659800000001/810000000B0C000000010000659C000026BD (http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=810000000007000000010000659800000001/810000000B0C000000010000659C000026BD)
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concerning the Pearl Jam show next monday i just printed this statement...if the securities don´t "behave" as they are supposed to ;D:
http://www.sonymusic.com/artists/PearlJam/tour/taping.html
I'm not sure you want to do that when it expressly says no external mics...
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concerning the Pearl Jam show next monday i just printed this statement...if the securities don´t "behave" as they are supposed to ;D:
http://www.sonymusic.com/artists/PearlJam/tour/taping.html
I'm not sure you want to do that when it expressly says no external mics...
I'm sure he edited that page a bit before printing it >:D
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Ok, got it working... formatted from within the original firmware. Weird..... hopefully it doesn't fuck up like this during a real show.
Always use the original firmware to format. I have heard numerous reports of problems trying to format via windows, but never have heard of a problem formatting with the iRiver firmware. iRiver's original firmware did not include a format option in the menu. Due to numerous problems formatting via windows, iRiver upgraded their firmware to allow you to format. This has already been discussed here, but I know how much of a pain it is to wade through all of the posts. It may have turned up in a search, though. FWIW, I've found that most of the 'common' problems have already been discussed either in the FAQ thread or the Team thread. It just takes some searching. Glad you got it going again. Good luck!
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Thanks for the info! What worries me is that it froze up when I pressed stop at the end of a recording and gave a I05 error. I think it was a "divide by zero" thing that I saw talk of, so I'm going to get the latest stable build with REP from that martin dude, hopefully that will prevent this problem.
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Thanks for the info! What worries me is that it froze up when I pressed stop at the end of a recording and gave a I05 error. I think it was a "divide by zero" thing that I saw talk of, so I'm going to get the latest stable build with REP from that martin dude, hopefully that will prevent this problem.
I don't think I've ever had one freeze up while recording. My H140 did freeze up this morning playing back a large wav file. I was rewinding a song and when I let go of the joystick, it froze up. Hit the reset button and everything went back to normal 8)
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Thanks for the info! What worries me is that it froze up when I pressed stop at the end of a recording and gave a I05 error. I think it was a "divide by zero" thing that I saw talk of, so I'm going to get the latest stable build with REP from that martin dude, hopefully that will prevent this problem.
I don't think I've ever had one freeze up while recording. My H140 did freeze up this morning playing back a large wav file. I was rewinding a song and when I let go of the joystick, it froze up. Hit the reset button and everything went back to normal 8)
Ok, I was worried my HD was dying. I have an arrangement with the ebay seller to try it out for a couple weeks and if there's another issue, I'll get a refund. In fact, I have the refund $ sitting in my paypal acct, so if it works fine after a couple recording attempts, I'll just send the $ back -- not a bad position to be in actually.
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concerning the Pearl Jam show next monday i just printed this statement...if the securities don´t "behave" as they are supposed to ;D:
http://www.sonymusic.com/artists/PearlJam/tour/taping.html
I'm not sure you want to do that when it expressly says no external mics...
i never got caught by any security since 1987...sooo many places to hide ;D
of course i don´t show them the external mics and they would never find them anyway ;)....don´t think they will CUT my jacket!
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i want to scan for bad sectors on the iriver. how can i go about doing this?
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If you can find them: a 40GB single platter disk (MK4009GAL, MK4007GAL), else a 30GB single platter.
Those have a thickness of 5mm.
look here: http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=810000000007000000010000659800000001/810000000B0C000000010000659C000026BD (http://sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx?Path=810000000007000000010000659800000001/810000000B0C000000010000659C000026BD)
Thanks! nothing on ebay at the moment, and in no rush, so Ill keep my eyes open.
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i want to scan for bad sectors on the iriver. how can i go about doing this?
Connect it to your PC and run Chkdsk (Chkdsk /r AND/OR Chkdsk /f repairs bad sectors I believe). I have very little experience with this, as I've only had to run chkdsk when I was messing around with a unit that had a bad hard drive.
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hola amigos :),
just returned from my first stealth-taping with my iriver h120.
Pearl Jam rocked Vienna tonight and i nailed my recording at 1st take with rockbox 20060923-build with manual gain-control at +20dB with the battery box bass-roll-off at 95Hz and the SP-CMC-8 cardioid mics.
tomorrow i will check if i need to raise the bass-frequencies a little with cool edit pro.
rockbox rules! YEAH!
1.6GB WAV file...3 min transfer to my notebook from the iriver.
buenas noches muchachos!
;D
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hola amigos :),
just returned from my first stealth-taping with my iriver h120.
Pearl Jam rocked Vienna tonight and i nailed my recording at 1st take with rockbox 20060923-build with manual gain-control at +20dB with the battery box bass-roll-off at 95Hz and the SP-CMC-8 cardioid mics.
tomorrow i will check if i need to raise the bass-frequencies a little with cool edit pro.
rockbox rules! YEAH!
1.6GB WAV file...3 min transfer to my notebook from the iriver.
buenas noches muchachos!
;D
Awesome dude! Pearl Jam fucking ownz!
Let me know when you get the recording out there, since I'd love to give 'er a listen... going to put it on bt.etree?
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Awesome dude! Pearl Jam fucking ownz!
Let me know when you get the recording out there, since I'd love to give 'er a listen... going to put it on bt.etree?
i need someone who knows the title of the tracks before i put it on bt.etree....need to register there now....
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Thanks for the info! What worries me is that it froze up when I pressed stop at the end of a recording and gave a I05 error. I think it was a "divide by zero" thing that I saw talk of, so I'm going to get the latest stable build with REP from that martin dude, hopefully that will prevent this problem.
I don't think I've ever had one freeze up while recording. My H140 did freeze up this morning playing back a large wav file. I was rewinding a song and when I let go of the joystick, it froze up. Hit the reset button and everything went back to normal 8)
Same thing happens to me. Just reset and back to normal, other the build I have on my h140 is rock solid.
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Thanks for the info! What worries me is that it froze up when I pressed stop at the end of a recording and gave a I05 error. I think it was a "divide by zero" thing that I saw talk of, so I'm going to get the latest stable build with REP from that martin dude, hopefully that will prevent this problem.
I don't think I've ever had one freeze up while recording. My H140 did freeze up this morning playing back a large wav file. I was rewinding a song and when I let go of the joystick, it froze up. Hit the reset button and everything went back to normal 8)
Same thing happens to me. Just reset and back to normal, other the build I have on my h140 is rock solid.
mine was doing that for a while until i upgraded to a more recent rep build.
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Thanks for the info! What worries me is that it froze up when I pressed stop at the end of a recording and gave a I05 error. I think it was a "divide by zero" thing that I saw talk of, so I'm going to get the latest stable build with REP from that martin dude, hopefully that will prevent this problem.
I don't think I've ever had one freeze up while recording. My H140 did freeze up this morning playing back a large wav file. I was rewinding a song and when I let go of the joystick, it froze up. Hit the reset button and everything went back to normal 8)
Same thing happens to me. Just reset and back to normal, other the build I have on my h140 is rock solid.
mine was doing that for a while until i upgraded to a more recent rep build.
Ok, I'll look into a more recent build...what are you using?
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I have a question....
I was taping tonight and after the first act, I went to save..and I got this weird message stating that there was no disk space, and press the stop button to continue..
I went to the ROCKBOX info and it indeed said there was 0 KB free space...I tried to record a few things before the opener and they didn't seem like they saved, ( I mean there was rec_004 in the recordings file, but when I went to play them they say "no file!"
Anyway, I plugged my IRiver in back home and it seems that I have the recording 1 254 MB worth (I am on a different comp and can't test to see if the file actually plays, because there is nothing to play WAV's on..)
My question is, THERE IS NOTHING on this disc ever. It is purely for recording, and after I dump the WAV to my HD, I delete it from the IRiver...Is there something I am missing? Like, some type of weird formatting thing that I have to erase recordings a certain way? This was very odd...
What should I do to proceed? RE-format it, and reinstall ROCKBOX?
Thanks guys.
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[530] Why is Rockbox saying my drive is full when it really isn't?
This has happened to a bunch of people. You delete a bunch of files in windows, but you're getting this damn message in Rockbox saying your disk is full. The reason for this was best described by Petur in another thread:
'The problem you're seeing is that when deleting files through the usb connection (windows/linux/mac/...), rockbox doesn't know about the freed space.
For speed reasons the disk isn't scanned on bootup, and rockbox thinks the clusters are still occupied. We're still looking for a way to get round this, maybe do a scan in the background or set a flag somewhere when we suspect a scan is needed.
To make rockbox rescan the drive:
go to Menu -> Info ->Rockbox Info and tap the play button (or click the joystick).
You should see a Scanning disk message.'
To play it safe you should probably do this every time you delete a bunch of files via windows. This problem does not occur if you delete via Rockbox. To delete via Rockbox, via the file browse just select the file or directory you wish to delete, then click and hold the joystick. A menu will appear. Select delete, and click the joystick another couple of times to confirm. This can come in very handy when you're on the road and realise you don't have enough disk space to record the gig you've just set up for. Smiley
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Want to add that RockBox looks at (and uses/updates) the free space field of the FAT table, but some os'ses on pc don't update this.
It doesn't happen always. For example, I've never seen the issue on my w2k system, but people do report it from time to time. Maybe it's got to do with how recycle bin is configured (I have it disabled for my iriver).
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Thanks alot guys, I tried to do the INFO > Rockbox, and press play, it still says I have 18.6 GB used and 0 KB free space...
I think when I get home I will transfer the rec_0001 I have on there now, and then maybe reformat it. Because it still is saying that there is no free space...
Thanks for your info..
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thom: did you see the 'disk scanning' message pop up when you pressed play? depending on which rockbox version you're using you may have to click the joystick in. Also, as petur mentioned, have you tried clearing your recycling bin? I would
petur: So I can add it to the faq, could you pls jog my memory as to how you disable recycling bin (it has been a while since I've had to do it)?
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Yes I did that, it didn't update.
I went to "Disk Cleanup," and behold I had 18.5 GB of stuff in the Recycle Bin. I wish I would have known this before the show, but you live and you learn, won't happen again, thanks for your guys help! +T
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Yes I did that, it didn't update.
I went to "Disk Cleanup," and behold I had 18.5 GB of stuff in the Recycle Bin. I wish I would have known this before the show, but you live and you learn, won't happen again, thanks for your guys help! +T
+T for the hard lesson learned.
FWIW, I have always deleted files on the iriver using Windows > then immediately emptying the recycle bin on my computer. Never had a problem with the iriver showing proper free space (knock on wood).
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One's best bet really is to delete via rockbox. I've got about 10gig free on my h160 for recordings...so after a few gigs i just delete my recording directory using rockbox - takes about 10 seconds and i know that it'll work.
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True, true. Thanks guys!
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petur: So I can add it to the faq, could you pls jog my memory as to how you disable recycling bin (it has been a while since I've had to do it)?
two options:
1) hold shift while deleting files will disable the recycling bin for that delete operation
2) with the device attached, right-click the recycling bin, select the drive letter of your device and change the option.
note that (2) requires that your device always gets the same drive letter when attached. Yes, Bill can sometimes be stupid ;)
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One's best bet really is to delete via rockbox. I've got about 10gig free on my h160 for recordings...so after a few gigs i just delete my recording directory using rockbox - takes about 10 seconds and i know that it'll work.
lol :D
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To install the REP I just copy the .patch file to the root right?
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To install the REP I just copy the .patch file to the root right?
nope.
the patch applies to the source which you then need to compile.
So use a pre-build binary which can be found in the rockbox forum (under recording)
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WARNING
The current CVS/daily builds of rockbox have a risk of sometimes skipping 1-2 seconds of a recording (no gap, the data is just missing).
I discovered this myself this morning when listening to a show I recorded last night :(
It doesn't happen a lot but even once is unacceptable imho.
The bug is being investigated, I hope it can be fixed asap.
A fix for the incorrect samplerate for spdif is up for testing.
The reason for all this is that a major part of the code got rewritten to accomodate different encoders (in the past, only WAV was written, now WAV, wavpack and mp3 are supported). I just wished the process would have been more smooth ;)
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just the last build is affected? or it come from some time ago? (I'm using 25.07.2006, so it doesn't affect me...I mean it for others, to set a "cut", after what build this is happening)
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I'm using a 9/12/06 build and I've had no issues.
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petur is talking about builds from October 1st 2006 and newer ones....
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petur is talking about builds from October 1st 2006 and newer ones....
nice, thanks :)
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just the last build is affected? or it come from some time ago? (I'm using 25.07.2006, so it doesn't affect me...I mean it for others, to set a "cut", after what build this is happening)
The cause could be either the new scheduler (16-sept-2006) or the encoder framework (28-aug-2006)
I have however recorded many times without problems since those two major changes, so it must have been something recent.
Or it's something on my device...
As soon as I've recovered from the diskcrash of my dev machine I'll try out some things.....
In the mean time stick to your working build. I wish I could, my last known good build was on that crashed disk :(
Peter
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petur: REP works fine. otherwise, if you don't want that i'm sure someone here could u/l a working version...
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yeah, petur, thanks for the explanations :) and keep us update about any test you make.
btw, I have all the daily builds since June in my HD right now, just tell me what one you want and I mail it to you
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This goes to show it's worth keeping a copy of your former versions when upgrading (so you can always go back to something that proved itself with your unit previously).
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did we ever figure out a way for the iriver to re-calculate how much room is left on it? i'm getting disk full errors even though it's not.
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did we ever figure out a way for the iriver to re-calculate how much room is left on it? i'm getting disk full errors even though it's not.
read the FAQs on the 1st site of this thread.
[530] Why is Rockbox saying my drive is full when it really isn't?
;)
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If I understand correctly newer builds of Rockbox have mp3 recording added but some may have the problem of some sec. dropped as Petur mentioned.
The build I am running ( from around end of july ) works well but still has WAV recording only.
Which build then has the mp3 recording added but runs problemfree?
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Something recent but before 10/1.
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If I understand correctly newer builds of Rockbox have mp3 recording added but some may have the problem of some sec. dropped as Petur mentioned.
The build I am running ( from around end of july ) works well but still has WAV recording only.
Which build then has the mp3 recording added but runs problemfree?
i recorded the pearl jam concert on september 25th with the september 23rd build without any problems.
arni
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If I understand correctly newer builds of Rockbox have mp3 recording added but some may have the problem of some sec. dropped as Petur mentioned.
The build I am running ( from around end of july ) works well but still has WAV recording only.
Which build then has the mp3 recording added but runs problemfree?
i recorded the pearl jam concert on september 25th with the september 23rd build without any problems.
arni
Arni - You recorded in mp3 format?
General comment:
Recording to mp3 format seems like a useless feature for me since I only record live music. I would use it, perhaps, if I wanted to record a lecture or something. In a world where music archivist are using 24/96 as almost the 'norm', this seems like a step in the wrong direction. I'm sure the taping community will love the fact that iRiver users now have the ability to record directly to mp3 and seed those recordings, rather than having to go through the extra effort to convert to the mp3 format from wav ::) (sarcasm meter on high).
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If I understand correctly newer builds of Rockbox have mp3 recording added but some may have the problem of some sec. dropped as Petur mentioned.
The build I am running ( from around end of july ) works well but still has WAV recording only.
Which build then has the mp3 recording added but runs problemfree?
i recorded the pearl jam concert on september 25th with the september 23rd build without any problems.
arni
Arni - You recorded in mp3 format?
General comment:
Recording to mp3 format seems like a useless feature for me since I only record live music. I would use it, perhaps, if I wanted to record a lecture or something. In a world where music archivist are using 24/96 as almost the 'norm', this seems like a step in the wrong direction. I'm sure the taping community will love the fact that iRiver users now have the ability to record directly to mp3 and seed those recordings, rather than having to go through the extra effort to convert to the mp3 format from wav ::) (sarcasm meter on high).
nope, i recorded the concert in WAV of course ;), but i did several radio recordings in mp3 format.... all more than 8 hours without any problems with this build from september 23rd 2006.
right now i´m using Mmmmm´s REP-build from the rockboxforum..the one in his signature from september 13, also no problems neither with mp3 nor with wav recordings.
here a pic of the Recording Enhancement Pack´s recording screen:
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/1079/iriverrep001ak7.jpg
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I was testing out the iriver h120 tonight.. just as a had set everything up, I went into the recording menu and was about to go to the recording screen then it frooze.
The display faded and i could get the backlight on by pushing buttons but it didnt happen anything. about 10-15 min later the thing shut off by itself and i was able to boot it up and start recording.
anyone knows what could have happened?
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I was testing out the iriver h120 tonight.. just as a had set everything up, I went into the recording menu and was about to go to the recording screen then it frooze.
The display faded and i could get the backlight on by pushing buttons but it didnt happen anything. about 10-15 min later the thing shut off by itself and i was able to boot it up and start recording.
anyone knows what could have happened?
I'm assuming you are Rockboxed.
Sounds like a small glitch happened. I would try a different daily build. The only glitch I have with the build I'm using is that it will freeze up when FF or RW during playback of large wav files. It has been reported that this isn't an issue with newer builds (I'm currently using 07.07.06, FWIW). You should know that if it freezes up on you again, you can just take a paperclip and push in the small reset button on the bottom of the unit. It should then power back up and work fine. No need to wait for it to shut down on its own or for it to run out of battery life and shut down.
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We need a Part II, don't we?
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We need a Part II, don't we?
IMO, we don't need a part 2. We need to lock the FAQ thread and start posting all of this stuff in the team thread.
Just my .02
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Works for me.
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Can't believe I missed it before, but...whataboutbob's FAQ is now in the Archive | Recording Gear forum:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=73130.0
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=73139.0
IMO, we don't need a part 2. We need to lock the FAQ thread and start posting all of this stuff in the team thread.
Personally, I think it makes more sense to lock it down and start creating individual, discrete threads for each issue / question. IME, it makes information easier to find later.
Problem with posting in the Team threads is that it's primarily a social section of the board, and if/when we need to purge old data (which we've done a couple times already), we purge the social boards since they typically don't include any historically useful data. Purging on a thread-by-thread basis is not an option, i.e. trying to keep "useful" threads from the social sections, as it's simply too much effort.
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Can't believe I missed it before, but...whataboutbob's FAQ is now in the Archive | Recording Gear forum:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=73130.0
IMO, we don't need a part 2. We need to lock the FAQ thread and start posting all of this stuff in the team thread.
Personally, I think it makes more sense to lock it down and start creating individual, discrete threads for each issue / question. IME, it makes information easier to find later.
Problem with posting in the Team threads is that it's primarily a social section of the board, and if/when we need to purge old data (which we've done a couple times already), we purge the social boards since they typically don't include any historically useful data. Purging on a thread-by-thread basis is not an option, i.e. trying to keep "useful" threads from the social sections, as it's simply too much effort.
Brian, is it possible for me to somehow post the faq to archive or something so that I can update it periodically?
edit: ok...done. I'm happy to have this thread locked. If anyone thinks something needs to be added to the faq just mention it in the team thread or PM me.
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Can't believe I missed it before, but...whataboutbob's FAQ is now in the Archive | Recording Gear forum:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=73130.0
IMO, we don't need a part 2. We need to lock the FAQ thread and start posting all of this stuff in the team thread.
Personally, I think it makes more sense to lock it down and start creating individual, discrete threads for each issue / question. IME, it makes information easier to find later.
Problem with posting in the Team threads is that it's primarily a social section of the board, and if/when we need to purge old data (which we've done a couple times already), we purge the social boards since they typically don't include any historically useful data. Purging on a thread-by-thread basis is not an option, i.e. trying to keep "useful" threads from the social sections, as it's simply too much effort.
Brian, is it possible for me to somehow post the faq to archive or something so that I can update it periodically?
edit: ok...done. I'm happy to have this thread locked. If anyone thinks something needs to be added to the faq just mention it in the team thread or PM me.
Whatboutbob:
Huge +T's for your effort on the FAQ. This information has helped many people.