Topic: TASCAM DR-680 portable 8-track #4

[Glenbo_the_Carpathian]

Thanks kirkd,

I'm using the unit quite basically at the moment, on its own, so I am monitoring levels via the headphone output. I'm using it as a simple sound solution on a web series where we mostly work dual system or straight into a DSLR via a juicelink when available, time code etc is not an issue for these projects.

Would I be getting a better quality of level going into the DR680 via a mixer? I do have an SQN4 available so I could use that alongside instead of letting the DR do all the work? Generally though, things have been working out fine.

[bdasilva]

Hey guys... I get a loud (embarrassing ) pop when I plug  the unit into the board... The phantom power is not on... for that matter the unit is not on....  What can I do?

[digging90650]

I've been using a batterygeek to run both dr-680 and v3 at 12V.
Runs for bloody ever.

You're using the batterygeek to run both devices simultaneously? Do you have a DC daisychain cable? Where can I get one? I have a batterygeek batt and a 680 and I'm planning on adding a DC powered FM transmitter to send the mix to multiple wireless headsets. Thanks for any info!

[kirk97132]

Hey guys... I get a loud (embarrassing ) pop when I plug  the unit into the board... The phantom power is not on... for that matter the unit is not on....  What can I do?

Have the sound guy either mute things or mute the channel yo are pluggin into.  It's not your fault, just what happens when you plug things in hot

[bdasilva]

Thank you Kirk... where I plug in parallels the mains out and I'm just getting the 1/4' pop.... I have a (well 2 really) workarounds.

[Flawn]

More info on the DR-680's behavior with digital inputs raises more questions.

Today I am feeding the digital output of a Sound Devices 702 to the DR-680. The 702's digital output is set to "consumer" rather than "professional", which should mean SPDIF instead of AES.

If I set the DR-680 to 48 kHz sampling rate, at either 16 bit or 24 bit resolution, I get clean signal into chs 5 and 6 of the DR-680. Oddly, I get clean sounding audio whether the SD702 is putting out 48k or 44.1k sample rate signal!

But if I set the DR-680 to 44.1 kHz sampling rate, at either 16 bit or 24 bit resolution, then I get the DIN Unlock screen and no audio passes, whether the 702 is putting out 44.1 or 48K.

Any crowd wisdom on this topic? Is there a sample rate converter on the 680's digital input, in which case I can just leave it set to 48k?

DR-680 is at firmware v1.20, and the SD702 was tried at both v2.66 and then 2.67 with no difference in behavior on this issue.

I have tried two different BNC-to-RCA cables, each of which tests out OK.

[hi and lo]

The 680 can accept SPDIF or AES, so I would try testing it out with AES. The 680 must be set to the same sample rate as the 702 and will not resample on the digital input to adjust between different rates.

[kirk97132]

Sound Devices had to do a firmware update to the USBPre2 SPDIF output when it was first released in order for the 680 to accurately "see" the incoming signal.  I don't know anything about the 7xx series recorders or their output streams.  BUT, the 680 does have an issue "seeing" certian types of SPDIF signals due to the way it reads the incoming data.  The 680 reads the headers NOT the actual info coming in.  I think Hi & Lo is right is you send an AES signal to the 680 it should lock at the correct settings. 

[Flawn]

Yes, upon further testing I find that if the Digital Output setting of the SD702 is "Professional" (which their manual also refers to as AES), then the DR-680 can receive and record digital data at either 44.1 or 48k. (If the rate on the 702 and 680 don't match then I see "DIN Unlock" on the 680, which is good practice.)

If the 702 is set to "Consumer", and the 680 and 702 are both set to 48K, signal passes and recording happens OK.

But if the 702 is set to "Consumer", and the 680 and 702 are both set to 44.1, the 680 shows DIN Unlock and won't pass audio.

What actually appears to be happening is that the 702 is outputting, or the 680 is misinterpreting/enforcing, a SPDIF subcode bit that triggers the old "no digital copying at 44.1" copy prohibit protocol.


As for the other things in my previous post: yes, the 680 will record an incoming 44.1 stream from the 702 (with the 702 set to "consumer") when the 680 is set to 48k. But no sample rate conversion is going on. And no indication is heard in the audio that anything is amiss during recording.

But if I then play that file back, the data that streamed in at 44.1k is played back clocked at 48k, so it's higher in pitch and faster in tempo than the original audio. This is bad design practice. If the rates don't match, then DIN Unlock should show up to announce a problem.

[phil_er_up]

Think I have identified 2 issues I was having with the TASCAM DR-680.

1) Issue: Levels were spiking up on channel 1 &2 and overloading the pre's on the TASCAM DR-680

Solution: Found that the Grace V3 had a short in one cord and was spiking the TASCAM DR-680. I replaced the cord on the V3 and no more overloading pre's on TASCAM DR-680.

2) Issue: Around 38 minutes several times the TASCAM DR-680 has stopped recording channels 1-2 but continued recording channels 5&6 or channel 3&4. Then I power the deck off completely and disconnect the teckeon 3450 and it works properly till end of show.
 
Solution: I could not figure this out and it happened to me recently. So this time it happened I pulled out the teckeon 3450 and it reset itself to 5 volts. I had manually set it to 12 volts 38 minutes earlier.

I can stop the recording and it saves the file properly. When I disconnect the teckeon 3450 it does not stop the dr-680 due to the internal batteries. If you pull out one AA battery the DR-680 will shut off. Then I power 3450 and reset it back to 12 volts turn on the Dr-680 and it has always worked the second time.

I checked the teckeon site and sent them the 2 batteries serial numbers to see if mine are defective. I am running the double 3450 battery pack into the Dr-680.

Conclusion: Issue 1 was my gear and there was no issue with the dr-680. Current thought is Issue 2 is most likely from the teckeon battery and not the DR-680. It seems if voltage drops from 12 volts the Dr-680 does not like it and user could have problems with the operation of the unit then.

So looking for new reliable battery solutions. Thinking of the sealed batteries but don't want that weight but will if I get good solid power.

[tgakidis]

My Tascam Update:  Unit was shipped to tascam from busman.  Tascam recieved the unit and it started up right away.  They fixed the dB problem on channel 2 and returned it back to me for $190 (Parts, Labor & Shipping).  Ran it last night with no issues (plugged into an outlet with the AC adapter).

[acidjack]

My Tascam Update:  Unit was shipped to tascam from busman.  Tascam recieved the unit and it started up right away.  They fixed the dB problem on channel 2 and returned it back to me for $190 (Parts, Labor & Shipping).  Ran it last night with no issues (plugged into an outlet with the AC adapter).

Isn't it less than a year old?  That seems totally unacceptable to charge someone almost 1/4 of the price of a new unit for repairs that shouldn't have been required in the first place.

[Myco]

My Tascam Update:  Unit was shipped to tascam from busman.  Tascam recieved the unit and it started up right away.  They fixed the dB problem on channel 2 and returned it back to me for $190 (Parts, Labor & Shipping).  Ran it last night with no issues (plugged into an outlet with the AC adapter).

Isn't it less than a year old?  That seems totally unacceptable to charge someone almost 1/4 of the price of a new unit for repairs that shouldn't have been required in the first place.

I believe this was a modded deck sent to Tascam through Busman, the warranty would have been voided by the mod.

[Gutbucket]

Just posted this reply in Ted's 'Found R-44 thread' but should have put it here where it belongs-

sounds like using a Tekkeon battery is the way to go with these.

Really? My conclusion is the exact opposite.  I'd avoid Tekkeons and instead use less complex, more Voltage stable sources. Haven't most of the problems appeared with units powered by Tekkeons? 

It seems the problems arise when using an external source that provides less than stable Voltage, and/or less than 12VDC.  The problem Tekkeons may be isolated to certain models which seem to changing output Voltage without the user's knowlege, but I've been suspect from the start of the advanced Voltage-required detection scheme which some? all? of those units use.   I'm not familar with them since I don't own one, but am I correct in understanding that at least some Tekkeons 'auto detect' the Voltage required to power the device and set their output that way?  I think output Votage can also be set manually, yet some report they don't always hold the correct setting and change output Voltage without notice.  Do I have that correct?

If so, the choice to use a less complex exterenal battery may be wise.  I haven't heard of any problems using the AC adaptor or 12V SLAs, which are about as simple as it gets.   9V DVD batteries are slightly more complex and provide less than the recommended 12V, and seem to work fine for many users (myself included), yet not for some others.   I wonder if the problems that have occured with some DVD batteries are with older and/or less than properly stored ones that may not be providing as much Voltage under load as a new or well stored one.  (Reminder: Best storage practice for longest life is to keep LiIon DVD batteries in sealed ziplock bags at 40% charge in the fridge.  To prevent condensation, allow them to warm to room temp before opening the bag and re-charging)

Regardless, if my DVD batteries were not working with my DR-680, I'd be looking at either SLAs, NiMH sleds, or LiIon externals that are simpler and have a dedicated 12V or highger output up to whatever the max input Voltage is.

Glad the issues with yours seem to be resolved, Ted

[jkbyram]

So far mine is good using a batterygeek 12 volt. I have the bg9-12-66 which has a switch to be either 9 or 12 volt.