Topic: M1 as an A>D

[shaggy]

I am thinking ahead to when I finally run the AK40>KM100>sax set up.  If I want to get rid of the boominess (I have a modSBM), I wanted to try and run the M1.  But I wanted to try and get the M1 to pass an optial signal theu ToddR's 7pin > TOSlink set up into the JB3 the other day and it was full of pops and clicks.  Is there is a reason for this?  The same cord out of the SBM does not do this and I made sure b/c my first thought was, 'oh no, my JB3 is fucked' and quickly put the modSBM into the mix.

Reasoning for the M1 as an A>D is b/c I have the remote and can view the levels real easy.  Also as I said b4, I want to have the option to take the low end warmness out of themix when I run the KM140s.

[reesey]

i heard jb3 drives that are not often reformatted tend to start recording with pops and clicks. 

however, i have never reformatted and things are running just fine.  so im not quite sure.  hows that for no help...

[nic]

I used to run AKG 391/MBHO 440-> MP2-> M1 alot and had good results.
its a much better AD than the D7/8

[grider]

a taper friend who used to sell recording equipment advised me that the adc function of the M1 is nearly as good as the SBM1 itself, so you should be fine running your Sonosax right into the M1 and still pull a good tape

[cgrooves]

I use the AD in my m1 and am very pleased with the results.  I've always been told by people more knowledgable than me that it is very close in quality to the stock SBM.  It is definitely better than the AD in the D7/D8.  Don't know why you would be getting pops in the recording, unless it is the JB3 re-format issue or the cable (which you've checked). Good luck.

[Cooker]

I ran the A/D in my M1 for years and was happy with the results. Then for a while i was patching off someone with a stock SBM. he ran out of batteries one set and we had to run straight into the M1.  i heard a noticeable difference between the stock SBM-1 and the M1's a/d that day....  i think the similarity to the SBM isn't a close as people make it out to be..  it added a lot of punch in the low end and overall detail to the recording.

[Brian Skalinder]

Nick Graham posted a modSBM-1 v. M1 ADC comp previously:

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=42216.0

Check out the feedback, and perhaps someone will re-seed if you want to hear the comp directly.  Maybe worth reading / listening even though it's the modSBM-1 in the comp.

[Todd R]

The pops and clicks are probably because the optical converter in the cable is not working with the M1.  The cable/optical transmitter draws its power from the unit it is plugged into.  I've only tried it with the SBM1, but it almost definitely would work with the D3, will probably work with the D7/D8, and won't apparently work with the D100/M1.  The D100/M1 supposedly puts out 3.3v, the D7/D8 4.5-5V and the D3 (and SBM1) about 6v.  The optical transmitter chip needs about 5v to work correctly, so with the 3.3v out of the M1 it just isn't getting enough juice to function correctly.

[shaggy]

Strangest thing.  I tried again this morning to use the ToddR 7pin>SONY POC-L10AB> NJB3 and it was still doing the click/bump thing.  Then I put the old flimsy POC-DA12SP cable into the M1 > NJB3 and it worked fine, switched the Digi switch to analog (as I was feeding it signal with the DPA 4061>MPS6030.  Switched back to the ToddR>POC-L10AB and no clicks and bumps!  Weird, huh? I will try again later just to make sure but at least I know the POC-12SP cable works and it may have something to do with the digi-analog switch.


+T to all that answered...
ANDY