Topic: iriver H1xx Tapers FAQ (beta)

[formengr]

Seems like as good a place as any, but I just bought the h120 w/remote from a store on ebay (see link below) for what I see as a screaming price:  brand new in the box for $166 including CA sales tax.  Their service was great.  Shipping would have been $18, but I had a friend pick it up for me from their store. They have many on their site now (h3xx too), including auctions or buy it now's. 

+t to everyone in these threads making it an easy decision to retire my njb3, but especially the rockbox developers!  They'll see a donation from me soon.

http://stores.ebay.com/OutletMP3

[flintstone]

The glut of new H120s on eBay means falling prices.

On Friday, May 19th, there were 23 H120s sold.
Of those, 11 were between $110 and $120.
Average price that day was $118

Shipping and handling is about $20

I second the recommendation of OutletMP3 as a source
for iRiver products on eBay.  Their product descriptions
are honest, and they ship very quickly.

Flintstone

[§†∑∫åµÞ≥¥]

The glut of new H120s on eBay means falling prices.

On Friday, May 19th, there were 23 H120s sold.
Of those, 11 were between $110 and $120.
Average price that day was $118

Shipping and handling is about $20

I second the recommendation of OutletMP3 as a source
for iRiver products on eBay.  Their product descriptions
are honest, and they ship very quickly.

Flintstone

I third that... however, when I bought mine from them in March it was before the new ones started showing up and I paid $210 shipped for a refurb. it works great, but I sure would've loved to save $50+ and get a new one!

[hyperplane]

The glut of new H120s on eBay means falling prices.

On Friday, May 19th, there were 23 H120s sold.
Of those, 11 were between $110 and $120.
Average price that day was $118

Shipping and handling is about $20

I second the recommendation of OutletMP3 as a source
for iRiver products on eBay.  Their product descriptions
are honest, and they ship very quickly.

Flintstone

Not to argue for the sake of arguing, but their product descriptions are a little less than honest... I got two irivers from them (a buddy overseas bought one from Outletmp3 and had it shipped to my address for me to ship to him).

With each iriver, neither of them was "Factory Sealed" as the auction stated. Also, even more concerning is this tidbit: Outletmp3 ONLY ships to the USA and Canada, and his auctions say the irivers "come with iRIver warranty"... but the warranty card included states the warranty is ONLY valid for purchases made in European countries. that's a little less than honest, IMO... especially considering the fact that Outletmp3 clearly opens the boxes to put stickers on the inside of the instruction manual. So he surely has seen the warranty card with having opened up all these iRiver packages to put stickers in their instruction manuals.

Having said that, shipping in both instances was extremely quick (USPS priority mail). But if you plan on purchasing from him, just know that contrary to the auction listing you will NOT get a warranty for the item from iRiver if you live in the U.S. or Canada (and you cannot buy from outletmp3 without providing a U.S./Canada address).

[§†∑∫åµÞ≥¥]

so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve

[Crumbo]

so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve

are you feeding it a digital signal before getting to the recording screen?

I know that was an 'issue' in the past

[§†∑∫åµÞ≥¥]

so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve

are you feeding it a digital signal before getting to the recording screen?

I know that was an 'issue' in the past

no, should I be?

[Crumbo]

so, I'm having some issues with optical/digital recording on my H120. I downloaded the latest daily build (today's) and unzipped it to my iRiver's ROOT folder as usual. I restarted my iRiver and set the recording source to "Digital" however when I attempt to run a test there are no levels present and it only records dead air. I'm testing via: DAT>UA-5>optical cable>iRiver and have narrowed the problem down to the iRiver. my DAT plays fine and the UA-5 gets the occasional peak light while also giving a optical (red laser) signal. each time I attempt to record (and get nothing) then push the stop button, my iRiver freezes up and no buttons work and I can't even turn it off. the only thing I'm able to do is get the backlight to turn on everytime I touch a button... but nothing else. eventually, I have to punch the 'Reset' button on the bottom of the iRiver and reboot. I've attempted this 3 times and gotten the same result each time. any ideas or suggestions on what I could do differently? or what I might doing wrong or missing? thanks.... Steve

are you feeding it a digital signal before getting to the recording screen?

I know that was an 'issue' in the past

no, should I be?

give it a try, I had the same issue and when I fed it the digital signal before going to the recording screen it fixed it

I also reset my settings once upgrading to the latest build

[whatboutbob]

stejampzy: that does sound like an issue that the very first version of the optical recording patch had.  Crumbo's suggestion is spot on.  Let us know how you go.

If it is definitely the latest build and you can replicate it, could you please report the problem here:

http://forums.rockbox.org/index.php?topic=2575.105

[Crumbo]

couple of Iriver H120 recordings here:

http://www.archive.org/details/glenphillips2006-05-20.late.akg483.flac16

http://www.archive.org/details/jkingham2006-05-20.late.akg483.flac16

optical in works great.....thanks to everyone over at rockbox for their hard work 

[Microbe]

Not to argue for the sake of arguing, but their product descriptions are a little less than honest... I got two irivers from them (a buddy overseas bought one from Outletmp3 and had it shipped to my address for me to ship to him).

With each iriver, neither of them was "Factory Sealed" as the auction stated. Also, even more concerning is this tidbit: Outletmp3 ONLY ships to the USA and Canada, and his auctions say the irivers "come with iRIver warranty"... but the warranty card included states the warranty is ONLY valid for purchases made in European countries. that's a little less than honest, IMO... especially considering the fact that Outletmp3 clearly opens the boxes to put stickers on the inside of the instruction manual. So he surely has seen the warranty card with having opened up all these iRiver packages to put stickers in their instruction manuals.

Having said that, shipping in both instances was extremely quick (USPS priority mail). But if you plan on purchasing from him, just know that contrary to the auction listing you will NOT get a warranty for the item from iRiver if you live in the U.S. or Canada (and you cannot buy from outletmp3 without providing a U.S./Canada address).

 I talked to the guy.  I'm pretty sure he is aware it's grey area equipment, not positive though.  I've also had problems with them answering emails and have had to resort to phone calls.  So while it's a good price and he does replace non-working items in 7 days, anyone buying may want to purchase the extended warranty.

And beware his payment system, if something gets out of sync between his system and EBay/PayPal, you're in limbo (that's where I am).

[hyperplane]

ok, i did the battery replacement/upgrade today on my iriver and on a friend's. instead of typing this here and in a PM to whataboutbob, i thought i'd just post it here.

whataboutbob wisely suggested shaving off a tiny bit of the molex connector bottom "lip." instead of doing that, i actually just used the molex connector from the original iriver battery... the molex connector from the iriver battery does not have as big of a bottom "lip" so no shaving was necessary.

also, i used a very tiny flat-bladed screw driver to gently unplug the original battery and to plug in the new battery as well.

don't forget to reverse the wires. something i noted was this: while looking at the top of the molex connector (where the little "flaps" are on top), the red wire goes on the left side and the black wire goes to the right side of the connector.

the operation took longer than i anticipated, but basically it took me a long time to take off all the molex connectors and put them on the new batteries. (i was extra careful, better to take a few minutes longer and not damage them.)

hope anyone who replaces/upgrades the iriver battery finds this info useful. 

[thegreatgumbino]

I'd like to see some pics of this.  Are there any that I've missed?

[hyperplane]

by request of thegreatgumbino...

there are pretty good pictures of the iriver battery installation at the "instruction" link in the faq composed by whataboutbob, found here: http://www.pdainternalbattery.com/iriverinstall.html

the first picture below is to show the small flat headed screwdriver i used to unplug the original iriver battery, as well as to plug up the new battery. (the penny is included in the picture to give a size comparison.)

the second picture is a front shot of the molex connector, with arrows pointing to the "flaps." with the way this picture is angled, you would insert the [iPod] battery wires into the 'back' of the molex connector; the "flaps" are located on the front. and be sure to be gentle when lifting the "flaps" to remove/insert the wires, as they are somehwat delicate.

[thegreatgumbino]

Gracias!  +T