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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: rodeen on February 27, 2006, 11:47:30 PM
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I finally got around to building a voltage regulator box to power my Microtrack from a large 9 volt Lithium Ion battery.
I fully intended to buy a Juice Box from Todd Ramsden but was in the mood to try something simple myself.
I ended up buying the parts from Aaron Dunlap (http://www.aarondunlap.com). For $9.50 you get a VR component,
a USB connector, some wires, a standard 9v battery holder, a switch, and an LED. I threw most of parts away and only used
the VR component and the USR connector. I also added a project box and a size "M" power connector from Radio Shack.
The project box included a small perf board and mounting hardware. The Aaron Dunlap kit shows it mounted in an Altoids gum
container. I thought about using one of the Altoid containers but it looked pretty cramped. Maybe next time. All told I have about $17 in parts and a couple hours of labor into the project and suprisingly the thing worked :o Based on my experience, unless you like to
tinker with stuff like this, buy one from Todd! :D
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That is a slick looking box you have there. I use a Juicebox myself because I'm really only comfortable hitting the record button.
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which voltage regulator did you use?
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+T for the DIY project.
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Holy smoke! I'm impressed. :spin: How about some pics of the VR in action???
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Looks like no heat sink. What voltage are you feeding it? How hot does it get?
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Looks like no heat sink. What voltage are you feeding it? How hot does it get?
I didn't put a heatsink on it. That will be a good addition to my second attempt. I'm using it to
take a 9.6v Best Buy LIon DVD battery down to 5v to power my Microtrack. I haven't field tested it
yet. Probably this weekend. The little bit I ran it while building it, the voltage regulator didn't seem
to get hot at all. Warm to the touch but not hot.
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Good job, Rodeen! Looks excellent, I'm sure it'll work fine for you.
On the heat issue, given the Microtrack's current draw and your battery voltage, you'll only be dissipating about 1 watt of heat. That shouldn't be an issue at all, even without a heat sink. I'd be more concerned about the lack of a fuse. I like all power related equipment to have fuses to protect your expensive downstream equipment in case something goes wrong. If you do any more tinkering, you might want to think about adding a PTC resetable fuse into your circuit.
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wow T+ looks great.
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i'd really like to know what VR you used.
i'm dying trying to build a 5v pack that outputs a 2amp current for my ACM660
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Lm7805??
http://www.iguanalabs.com/7805kit.htm
crude filtering but it would work.
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cool site.
thanks!
Doug has "ok"'d the use of 6v w/the marantz, so my problems are solved.
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I based my box on parts that Aaron Dunlap put together. I just ordered another couple sets
of parts from him and the VR included is a LD50CV. I can't find any details on it though. In my
next attempt I'm going to add a fuse (thanks Todd!) and maybe a heatsink although my current
box doesn't get hot at all.
i'd really like to know what VR you used.
i'm dying trying to build a 5v pack that outputs a 2amp current for my ACM660
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I missed this the first time. Glad it got bumped! Thanks for the photos.
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i picked up a 7805 VR from the shack, and am building one of these suckas for my microtrack.
plan is:
8cell AA holder > vr w/heatsynch > USB mini cable coming out.
the smallest project box they make is still way too big for my needs. I might just epoxy the whole thing to the top of the AA sled.
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i picked up a 7805 VR from the shack, and am building one of these suckas for my microtrack.
plan is:
8cell AA holder > vr w/heatsynch > USB mini cable coming out.
I might just epoxy the whole thing to the top of the AA sled.
That's the spirit! Epoxy and heat shrink tubing. Works great. I would put a heatsink on it though.
Richard
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google lm7805 circuit ... you should have a cap on the input and output... (to be pro)
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pro shmo
I like a good gear bag fire every once and a while
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Not caps as in covers... I mean Caps as in Capicators... maybe a .22uf ceramic disk between the input and ground... a .01uf ceramic disk between the output and ground... go crazy... maybe a 220uf/10 electrolitic between the output and ground to clean up noise and provide stability as the momentary power demand changes. These however nowhere diminish the posiblity of a good bag fire. maybe even a small explosion (loud pop really) if you screw up the polarity too... Power this first at home so only your wife and not your taper buds laugh at you.
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my taper buds LIVE to laugh at me, and I usualy give them plenty of chances
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i always loved to put caps into an electrical outlet in electronics school, the teacher didnt think it was so funny ;D