Topic: AKG B.i.G./CK91 (NEW MOD) detachable Blueline series caps

[igene]

2 prototypes completed

I've been working on a capsule only mod that makes the CK91, 93 caps disconnect,
and look a bit like the CK-1X caps   (see comparison pic below)

The mod is in proto-version 1.5 now, I think it looks amazing.
There were a lot of problems that needed to be solved along the way for this to work.
I think I'm almost done, I just need to solder it up and make small adjustments
I only have a dummied up prototype, but it looks great.





comparisons

[ArchivalAudio]

no help from me
but again  I wanna say your mod looks slick!
this gives more future options to everyone
thank you

[igene]

I was aiming for a feasible mod I can offer as a service to whoever wants it.
I know there are a lot of CK-91 & CK-93's out there...

It's a durable design that will function well for a long time.
I take longevity into account when I design anything.
It's also non-destructive. I can reverse the process if needed.

I saw all the hardwired mods, and figured I could do it better.
As far as I can tell, no one has done a miniXLR/ (BL)CK capsule mod.

Also, the spacer is specially handcrafted and takes almost an hour to complete.
(with polishing) 1 per capsule / so almost 2 hours.
There is nothing out there that I found that will fit this exactly.
I can however make a bunch in advance to speed things up later...

[igene]

Finished all the wiring/soldering, and it works like a champ.

I'm very happy with the results.

I learned a few more things about the mod as I was completing it.
The final stage is a real BEAR to get right.

ANYWAY - 1st one DONE !!!

I'm going back to some other projects that are on hold.
I'll be back to finish the other one next week.
Now that I know the complete process, it will be easy.

Ver 1.5

[jbell]

Nice work!  Some sound samples of the modded caps against the caps and bodies would be great. 

Edit:  I might be interested in a set since I already have a minixlr cable and PFA that would work great with these. 

[ArchivalAudio]

so would these work with the mini PFA?
in other words no bodies needed just phantom?  if that's true that is soooooooo cool! right on!
--Ian

[Hypnocracy]

Ian...I think these would run with anything that would power AT853's...PFA, Church Audio 9100 or BB Box ect...

[willndmb]

looks nice
so you could use 1 set of cables and switch the caps?
compared to the hardwire versions where you are going to need cables for each cap
whats the power? 9v or 48

[igene]

You only need 9v to 16v to run these (9V is enough)

The connector is a miniXLR, so you just change the caps for a different pattern.
the cap IS the body (so to speak).
-----------------------------------------------------------
I'm playing around with the design now...
(I got a bit obsessed with it, can't do my other work...)
I'm trying to accommodate the wires and connector better.
The extension tube is about 3mm longer now.
Plus, I polished the hell out of it, looks great.


Ver 1.6

[F.O.Bean]

AWESOME

[willndmb]

do you need to polish it so much if you are adding the heat shrink

[igene]

Shrink tubing is just an option I was playing with.
It's turning out to not so practical.
I wanted to see the copper real shiny, so I polished it up.

I'm unsure of how I want the final mod to look.
But I'm leaning toward just exposed copper.



Suggestions ...?

[igene]

what type clearcoat will work best?
brand ?

[DigiGal]

Been watching your progress on these mods for a while.  Nice work Gene!!!

[igene]

I finished and tested both...
I only have 1 miniXLR to miniXLR cable, so I can only test them one at a time.
I'm also out of miniXLR connectors...need to order more.

add: I just ordered more miniXLR cable end connectors, and enough miniXLR panel connectors to do 5 more sets

I changed the internal wiring on the second one, and the way the spacer attaches to the body.
Also, the way the miniXLR connector attaches to the spacer.
Also figured out a much faster way to polish the spacer, and it looks better too.
It looks factory made now.
I'm super happy with the 2nd one.
That's how I'll make any subsequent ones.

here they are >
(I took the foto before securing the miniXLR panel connector on the back one, that's why it's out a bit)

back one -Ver. 1.7, front Ver. 1.5

[igene]

Been watching your progress on these mods for a while.  Nice work Gene!!!

Thanks.

I'm workin' hard to make this mod look as tight and professional as possible !

[jbou]

Shrink tubing is just an option I was playing with.
It's turning out to not so practical.
I wanted to see the copper real shiny, so I polished it up.

I'm unsure of how I want the final mod to look.
But I'm leaning toward just exposed copper.



Suggestions ...?

I think the exposed copper looks better than with the heat shrink. And way to go!

[Church-Audio]

I did something similar except I used microdot connectors.

[igene]

how did you get the connector to stay in ?
It's kind of tight in there.

[willndmb]

Shrink tubing is just an option I was playing with.
It's turning out to not so practical.
I wanted to see the copper real shiny, so I polished it up.

I'm unsure of how I want the final mod to look.
But I'm leaning toward just exposed copper.



Suggestions ...?

I think the exposed copper looks better than with the heat shrink. And way to go!

i disagree
i like the heat shrink much better
it loos more finished imo

[illconditioned]

I've done this.  Hardwire the connection, use shrinkwrap, and optionally, hot melt glue and gaffers tape .

Seriously.  That is nice work...

  Richard

[jbell]

I like the shrink wrap too!  It makes the cap look like it was built with the minixlr.  What do you think the cost of having a set of caps modded will be??

[igene]

I don't know what to charge exactly...
My time is around 3 hours per pair, plus materials.

I'd like to hear what people think I should charge (realistically).

Keep in mind, this is the only mod that does this, and all the work is prof. quality.
Everyone has been waiting for someone to create something like this, so I did.
I also believe there is value in it's uniqueness.

Having said that,
I can do a turn around in 2 days if all the materials are here.
Otherwise, add on the time it takes to get parts.
Right now I ordered enough for 5 pair.
That should be here by Monday. (going from Oregon to NY)

Suggestions please.

I'd like to be fair to YOU folks, and ME.
so please take all that into account when replying.
thanks a lot !

note:
The mics are working great excellent, I just need to do a final field test
(after I get parts to make cables) before I start making more.

So far I've only tested them listening to a P-Funk SBD on my home stereo.
Download this, it's AMAZING quality >
http://www.thetradersden.org/forums/showthread.php?t=90656
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oh, and what I'll do is finish the copper (polish & coat) but ship with shrink tubing for protection.
It comes right off, I'm not gluing it on.
So you can use them either way.
That solves that.

[ArchivalAudio]

Awesome Gene!
personally I like the shrink tube look
also may help one of those Audix clips to attach more securely
way to go
--Ian

[jbou]

After reading all the posts in favor of the heat shrink... I went back and looked at the picture with it. It does look nice.

[igene]

I like the way it looks too...but if you look to the future...
taking it in and out of clamps and clips, pushing and pulling...
the shrink tubing will rip in no time, and it will look nasty.

just sayin'

[ArchivalAudio]

I like the way it looks too...but if you look to the future...
taking it in and out of clamps and clips, pushing and pulling...
the shrink tubing will rip in no time, and it will look nasty.

just sayin'

yeah
and it's so easy to replace if it does look nasty...
just snip, slip n heat!

[igene]

Well, I already said I'd include it.
I'm just seeing that they will wear fast,
and I'd like my mod to look good out in the field.
That's up to the user I guess.

So I guess all that's left is price.


I'd like to get $200. per pair with your caps
+$10.(shipped/tracked/max insured - USPS small flat rate box)
$550. If I provide (buy) the caps (Brand New)plus $10. shipping

I'm also adding a 1 year guarantee on MY work.
That means if any of the wiring or connections fail or have issues,
send it to me with return postage, and I'll fix it FREE.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

change: I added shipping cost.
          I though about it, and I think $200. before shipping is the right price.
          That's $100. per side to make your mics preamp free.

[jbell]

Just a heads up you can get the ck91/3 cap for a little under $165 from full compass if you get an email qoute or call them. 

[igene]

jmbell
thanks. I lowered the price $50. on my purchase price.

So how is the mod price ?
you said you were interested in a pair.
I'm trying to set the price, so I need some feedback.

[igene]

Jon,
So yours is $99. per side ?
$198. for stereo ?
sounds like the same price !

The cost of my mod reflects 45 - 60 min's of cutting, boring, grinding, shaping and polishing the spacer/ferrel.
Then disassembling the capsule and internals, de-soldering the connections, re-wiring, soldering, fitting the connector
and attaching the spacer to the coupling (and some other stuff too) That's 90 min of solid work per mic.
Maybe in the future I can figure out some way to cut down times, or find a metal shop to do the ferrels in bulk...
then maybe drop the price ? for now it's all labor intensive.
It all depends on how much demand there is.

I also wanted to add this as a clarification of what I do to make this mod happen.

I've owned AKG Blueline mics since they were introduced in the early 90's.
They have always sounded great to me. I know lots of folks like them and wish they
could have them as actives. I've read it many times in the forums here.
I just hope that there enough interest for me to invest in the materials to make a bunch of them.
They are reasonably priced mics, but to buy a bunch of them is not cheap.
The only other active mod in this aprox. price range I know of is the Franken-Nak.
(aside from yours).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
note:
I actually wouldn't mind powder coating the ferrel to match the cap.
That would be a nice touch.

[tgakidis]

Richard, Jon
So yours is $99. per side ?
$198. for stereo ?
sounds like the same price !

[igene]

Sorry about the wrong name...I do that all the time.
I have a hard time remembering user name vs. actual name.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
As far as buying caps...
I'm just offering it as an option.
I'd prefer if folks supplied the caps.
I saves me the out of pocket expense.

I'm exploring all options here...this is all new to me.

I'm considering some other options too.
Like miniXLR cables, custom mini battery box, and possibly a custom suspension.
I'm still working out the details...
Some of it is still in the design stage.

[Chuck]

Not trying to compete as I'm not doing a ck91 mod, but my ck6x coupling will probably be $99 including the (mono) PFA.  I am not doing the metalwork though, I will hire that out, which will run in the $10-$15 range per unit, depending on volume.  I also hire out powdercoating, which costs me about $0.50/unit.

Jon, is that with 18" PFA wires? I know that I'd rather have 12' to 15' wires with the capsule coupler on one end and the full sized XLR PFA on the other end.
That's very reasonable pricing too. 

[acidjack]

FWIW your pricing seems pretty fair to me.  Cheaper than buying bodies for sure! 

I would recommend (as someone who owned a similar, albeit less sturdy, setup in the past) that if you can, definitely try to offer a battery box with it as well as potentially a custom kwon bar or other mount.  I had some trouble finding one I liked when I ran these.

[igene]

JBou, no worries.

There are tapers new to this that just have basic mics or are overseas that may
consider it a useful option...or even something else I haven't considered.
It doesn't hurt to add it as an option or suggestion.

That really is the least of my concerns.

I'm taking on a long term commitment, and that takes a lot of planning.

Besides that, I'm trying to design a complete custom package.
The suspension mount is next.
I think it's more important than a BB right off.
Folks can get a CA-9100 pre w/ miniXLR's or a tinybox.
BOTH GREAT OPTIONS.
miniXLR cables can be easily made or purchased elsewhere...

Finding a way to mount the mics is more of an issue.
I have a new design in mind, I'm just waiting on supplies to make a pair.
It's going to match the mod. It's a very cool idea. I can't wait.

[it-goes-to-eleven]

the point of the PFA output is to be balanced low-impedance, which the PFA lav cable isn't.

Really?  The PFA output being balanced is a nice touch! 

Are you giving any thought to supporting other capsules?

[illconditioned]

Not trying to compete as I'm not doing a ck91 mod, but my ck6x coupling will probably be $99 including the (mono) PFA.  I am not doing the metalwork though, I will hire that out, which will run in the $10-$15 range per unit, depending on volume.  I also hire out powdercoating, which costs me about $0.50/unit.

Count me in!  I've got a pair of ck63 caps looking for a connection...

  Richard

[EarlyMorningRain]

read through all the posts, but as far as the mod itself goes - looks pretty pretty damn slick to me!

As far as pricing, I think you priced this mod pretty well. I know back when I got my ck91 caps modded (by dano420 here) his mod cost was in that same ballpark (might have been a bit higher but it included a 9v battery box).

Anyway, great job on the mod! And if you get some type of kwon-esque bar (t-bar) made, if that will work for my setup, count me in!
 

[Church-Audio]

how did you get the connector to stay in ?
It's kind of tight in there.

I use a tap that was made for me to tap out the inside of the connection so I can screw in the microdot. With an adapter sleeve. Then locktite it so it does not unscrew.

[igene]

how did you get the connector to stay in ?
It's kind of tight in there.

I use a tap that was made for me to tap out the inside of the connection so I can screw in the microdot. With an adapter sleeve. Then locktite it so it does not unscrew.

Nice.
thanks for that...
I'm going to use locktite as well.
It will be too easy to unscrew the way I have it.
Also, for protection against coming loose from vibration.

[illconditioned]

Here is a link to a schematic I got from AKG tech support a while ago:

http://Soundmann.com/CK91_conn_set.pdf

Note that a "standard" 3-wire battery box may or may not power this thing correctly.  Or, it may appear to power it, but only at moderate sound levels.  I built this circuit for the past (two?) units that I sold here.

It sounds like Chris has "4.7k" or otherwise modded the capsule itself to work with "two wire" battery boxes.  A nice idea IMO.

 Richard

[igene]

Note that a "standard" 3-wire battery box may or may not power this thing correctly.
Or, it may appear to power it, but only at moderate sound levels.  I built this circuit for the past (two?) units that I sold here.
It sounds like Chris has "4.7k" or otherwise modded the capsule itself to work with "two wire" battery boxes.  A nice idea IMO.
Richard

Thanks Richard, I'm going to check that out.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Richard,
I don't have a battery box built or handy...but I did a test with a preamp.
I  did the test running a mic ~2 feet from a BIG Cerwin Vega speaker powered by a Crown amp at 50% vol.
That is VERY loud !!! Especially at that close of a distance.
I was using a CA-9100 w/ no filtration.
I ran that into a Sound Devices HX-3 in MONO mode into a Roland R-05 (monitored w/ Sony MDR-7509HD cans)
The gain was around ~40% on the Church pre and ~30% gain on the SD HP amp, Roland R-05 gain @ 10 with good strong peaks.
NO DISTORTION ! clean full sound.
no issues, as expected.
I'm not sure what think the problem would be...it's fine with a 9V. pre.
Would it that much different with a BB ?
I believe in a pragmatic approach. I did the testing, and it sounds great.

Here are the pics of the test setup, and a random 2 min clip of a P-Funk SBD from 1978
I recorded at the levels I stated before.


test clip is wave 44/16
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=58QFCZ4U





here's the complete show for comparison >
http://www.thetradersden.org/forums/showthread.php?t=90656

[Chuck]

Here is a link to a schematic I got from AKG tech support a while ago:

http://Soundmann.com/CK91_conn_set.pdf

Note that a "standard" 3-wire battery box may or may not power this thing correctly.  Or, it may appear to power it, but only at moderate sound levels.  I built this circuit for the past (two?) units that I sold here.

It sounds like Chris has "4.7k" or otherwise modded the capsule itself to work with "two wire" battery boxes.  A nice idea IMO.

 Richard

Thanks for sharing this circuit Richard. 

[F.O.Bean]

Looking good iGene

[leehookem]

Not trying to compete as I'm not doing a ck91 mod, but my ck6x coupling will probably be $99 including the (mono) PFA.  I am not doing the metalwork though, I will hire that out, which will run in the $10-$15 range per unit, depending on volume.  I also hire out powdercoating, which costs me about $0.50/unit.

Count me in!  I've got a pair of ck63 caps looking for a connection...

  Richard

Me too!

[igene]

I'm curious, are you guys interested in my mod CK91/93 or Jon's CK6X

[leehookem]

I'm interested in both actually.

[illconditioned]

I'm curious, are you guys interested in my mod CK91/93 or Jon's CK6X

I'm just waiting for the CK6X.  I've already got a set of modded ck93...

  Richard

[igene]

Has anyone listened to the sample clip ?

[EarlyMorningRain]

^ just did and sounds nice! I know it's mono (single cap), but maybe try it out in the field?

[igene]

^ just did and sounds nice! I know it's mono (single cap), but maybe try it out in the field?

I'm waiting on supplies...
I'm out of miniXLR connectors, and don't have any cables made up.
I just have my 1 shorty 12" one for testing.

As soon as I get the delivery, I'll make up cables and roll a show ASAP.
I just posted the clip to show High db is not an issue, the mic sounds real nice, and that 9v will power it no problem !

that's all I can do for now.
money is tight, so 1 step at a time.

[ArchivalAudio]

back a bit I saw a 9v to 16v range for the ck91
does this mean 16v is the max?  if I set my Littlebox to 20v phantom that's too much?
or would I just run the Naiant PFA with these.... I understand that would work fine.
 thanx for the awesome work Gene  I would totally find a machine shop to make you say 100 pieces or get quotes and price-breaks.
thanx
--Ian

[igene]

I actually don't know the full answer to that question.
With the preamp body, the mic works great from 9 - 48v
The cap itself ? I would say 9 - 16/18v is good...anything more I'm unsure of.
(20v may still be OK / without knowing more)
It may work fine up to 48v., but I need to research that...

If anyone knows, please help.

[igene]

right now I have the cap connection wired >

Pin 1: Shield
Pin 2: Battery (+)
Pin 3: Audio

no extra resisters inline or anything.
It works fine w/ a CA-9100 providing 9v.
Are you saying that I should only run these at that voltage because it's efficient enough @ that voltage ?

Also, I'm only going to make these 3 wire / balanced.
What would be different, or needed to run it with a tiny or little box ?

[illconditioned]

To iGene and others: I don't have time to answer questions by PM.  Please post the questions here and (hopefully) someone will answer them.  Or I will answer them once, and not multiple times.  I am trying to help out by posting what I have, but I have to limit my time here.  I say that while obsessively following the posts, but I'm still trying, lol.

  Richard

[igene]

Can someone confirm this is correct.
Thank you.

standard miniXLR wiring is :
Pin 1: Shield
Pin 2: Battery (+)
Pin 3: Audio


PCB wiring :



the Blueline lav mic I used for wiring ref. :


How I have my CK91 PCB wired :




Thank you.

Sorry to ALL for any OD in the PM department.

[illconditioned]

I'm not sure about the pins you've labeled on the CK9x circuit board.  This is a loooong time ago for me.

However, I *think* miniXLR should be wired differently.  The way I've seen AT853 and family, it is:
pin1: shield
pin2: audio
pin3: battery +

If you look inside the AT853 power modules they usually have a load resistor (5.1k or something?) between audio and ground, and then take the signal off pin 2.  The voltage is something like 5-9V.

If you have a choice, I would follow the AT853 convention for any three wire mic.

However, it is probably simpler to put a load resistor between pin 2 and 1 *inside* the ck9x capsule, and then just put a two wire connection on the output and use a standard "two wire" battery box.  The trick is the value of this load resistor.  I'm guessing something like 10-15k might be more appropriate.  Notice that the recommended value in the circuit I posted (from AKG directly) is 13.3k.  So, you're doing something like the standard 4.7k mod, except using a 13.3k resistor in this case.

  Richard

[igene]

I look at the schematic, and it shows 3 resistors present in the circuit already. (R1, R2, R3)
Aren't they performing the exact the function you are describing ?


also, in the picture (3rd image) of the lav connector/ PCB board: is RED (+) and Blue (-) ?
I've been over this a dozen times and I'm 99.9% sure that I've wired this correctly,
I just want to be 200% sure.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
add:
OK, I got it. 200%, I'm right!
pic 3 and 4 are the key /then cross ref. to the 1st schematic.
Both are the underside of the PCB.
If you start at the ground and go right(up)...the next contact point is BLUE or (-) in both instances.
That corresponds to the 1st schematic as well.

I'm sorry I second guess myself, but I prefer the piece of mind.
whew !

[it-goes-to-eleven]

So, to digress just a bit.  How would that circuit look if driving a 60v capsule that has only 1 connection pin + ground?

[igene]

I re soldered pins 2 and 3 (reversing them) and tested it.
The bass distorts and the high end is compromised.
I put it back the way I had it and the mic sounds correct.
Tight bass, good output and crisp highs.

I'm leaving it that way.

[it-goes-to-eleven]

So, to digress just a bit.  How would that circuit look if driving a 60v capsule that has only 1 connection pin + ground?

It would work very poorly; you need capsule bias much higher than the bias at the FET gate, and you need more than 9V to polarize the capsule anyway.  If you used a 9V supply, then your capsule polarization voltage would be a fraction of that (depending on the R3/R2 divider), and you would thus have a weak output with terrible signal to noise ratio.

Right, thanks.  I meant how would it need to look

[igene]

Jon,
I just tested the B.i.G. cap w/ my AT8531 and it works.
Low output because it's just a AA battery, but it works !

[igene]

If you want to run 2-wire, the easiest thing to do is stick a resistor between the source and ground pins inside the mini-XLR plugs on the cable (2x mini-XLR --> 3.5mm miniplug).
littlebox and tinybox can support any microphone configuration if specified (the tinybox input configuration always has to be specified; a stock littlebox has P48 and 9V 2-wire PIP; 3-wire is an optional feature). 
The PFA can also support either 2-wire or 3-wire but must be specified.  So it depends on how the customer wants to connect.

Jon,
I have a question about this...
So all I need to do to make this a 2 wire is make a separate or additional cable with the resistors in the miniXLR side (going to a 3.5mm) 
So the same caps can be used with 2 or 2 wire BB's, PS's or pre's ? Just change cables?

If so, what is the value of the resistor ? and when you say source to ground - do you mean audio out ?  (pin 1 to pin 2 / in my configuration)
thanks

[igene]

thanks for the FET info. I'll read it in a bit.

On another front...I've been looking into mounting solutions
and DPA has 2 that work.
I'm designing my own (I actually have an idea for a second one now)
but this will work in a pinch >

[ArchivalAudio]

^^^^ cool
wouldn't  one of the audix micros work?
http://www.audixusa.com/docs/products/MC-MICRO.shtml
http://www.audixusa.com/docs/products/SMT-MICRO.shtml

[igene]

The inexpensive audix micro hard clips are a hair too small.
I snapped one trying it out.
I heated the other to try to get it to fit, but ended up melting it.
So NO, the audix micro's clips don't work.

However, I think the Audix SMT-micro shock mount will.
Because it's rubber - it will stretch to fit.
I prefer the shock mount anyway.
I have to order them, they are $25. each.
I need to sell something to afford that.
So that fitment is on hold...

I'm working on some custom design's, so that's coming too.

The larger Audix clips...
Those sort-of fit.
If I make a rubber adapter ring for the extension, it will work better.

[H₂O]

Nice

[runonce]

Im not impressed with having the clip so close to the vents.

wouldnt this work better in some sort of bar-type mount with a lower profile relative to the vents...?

[it-goes-to-eleven]

Im not impressed with having the clip so close to the vents.

That will likely cause problems.  Gefell, and likely others, use bands near the front of the cap to alter the pattern.  I've been wondering what sort of effects we might attain using them.  I believe I saw them narrowing an omni to more of a wide card.

[igene]

I'm working on many ideas right now.
I don't like the way the audix clip holds it either...I'd never run it that way myself.
but if you read the post, I said I'm going to try to make some sort of rubber sleeve or adapter ring for the extension on the back of the mics.
I think that will work great.

it's a work in progress...
I'm just posting shots of stuff I'm trying.

[it-goes-to-eleven]

I'm just posting shots of stuff I'm trying.

You're doing great!  Just trying to give you feedback where it might help.

[igene]

I just got my delivery from Mouser...miniXLR connectors.
So I'll be making up cables this week, and I'll have a stereo recording sample up soon.

I'm waiting on the delivery of parts for my shock mount design.
The material will cover 2 idea's. One design is quite simple, and is basically a shock spacer.
I'm trying to make the mics compatible with commonly found mic clips.

more soon...

[igene]

OK, so I made some real nice miniXLR cables and did a controlled test (in stereo) in my livingroom.
It is what it is...
I mounted the 2 mics to a stand > new cables> CA-9100 (miniXLR type) > R-09
the stereo was turned up to the point that I was getting RED peak lights on the amp. (Crown 202)
The R-09 was set to 20, and the CA-9100 was turned up to 60% gain.
I used the P-Funk 1978 SBD again.  (give up the funk)
I think it's very clear and dynamic, and I wanted to run the mics in a Hi db environment
I posted both the original recording and my recording of it (for comparison).
Keep in mind that the stereo reproducing the orig. recording will color the sound...
but it's good enough for reference, and to make a decent judgement about it.

orig >  http://www.megaupload.com/?d=CG4S3ALL
B.i.G. > http://www.megaupload.com/?d=12GK9ITY

I'm currently working on suspension for the mics.
I have the materials and basic design, I'm just trying to make it look good.
...more soon...

[F.O.Bean]

Awesome

Any idea how much a set will run?

[igene]

Well...
So far I've established $100. per mic for the work.
So if you provide the mics, it's $200. plus $10. shipping (tracked & insured)
If I provide the mics, add the cost of the mics....~$165. to $175. per mic depending...

I just bought a used set that I'll be offering for a lot less than new.
($375. modded)
I still have to do the work.

Then there is the question of mounting and cabling.

Cables can be made quite easily if I have all the parts.
I would have to order the ends and cable, so price would be
set be cost of parts and a bit for labor.

The suspension is a multi part answer.
I'm currently working on a custom shock absorbing sleeve that slips onto the back of the mic that adapts
it to larger mic clips. That will be ~$15. per pair
the next thing is a full clip/suspension setup.
I've been buying parts and putting together small suspension kits.
That will be in the ~$80. range per stereo suspension bar.
No pictures yet, I still need to finish them. I'm missing 1 part.

I'll work out a full kit price as well, but this is what I've come up with so far.