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Author Topic: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping  (Read 8581 times)

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Offline hieye

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New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« on: February 04, 2010, 02:37:19 AM »
Thank you everyone who assisted in my first post!

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130746.0

I ended up picking up a Sony PCM M10, and CA-14s (cards and omnis w/clips) and battery box. 

I have a lot of questions in preparation for taping in New Orleans next week!  Obviously I will be recording a lot of jazz/blues.  Please respond as if this were a hypothetical stealth taping situation.  Please PM me if any of you feel certain topics should not be discussed.

**Yes, I have read the manual and have briefly skimmed through the forums.  I would greatly appreciate insight from those with experience**

1)  Regarding recording mode:  I can record up to LCPM 96/24.  However, what is typically recommended for quality, yet space efficiency?

2)  I understand that tapers use the hold button to lock their settings during the sound check. However, I don't think the recording level can be locked in place?  That seems be a weakness with the PCM M10?  What do I gain by using the hold button?

3)  Regarding setting recording level:  My limited understanding is that I want to keep volume levels under -12 db to avoid distortion.  I've read it is best to manually set the recording level.  I've read that it is best to keep recording levels low then boost if needed when editing.  As a new taper, I want to keep things as simple and idiot proof as possible.  Questions: 

a)  Why not use the limiter function to avoid distortion?
b)  Why not use the auto recording level mode? 
c)  Do I need to tape the recording level knob to set the recording level in place (if manually setting the recording level)?
d)  Should the mic sensitivity be set to high or low?
e)  Should the low cut filter be on or off?

4)  Regarding mics:

a)  How do you recommend mounting the mics for taping in a hypothetical stealth situation?  The CA-14s are rather large and when I trialed placing the mics under a jacket, any movement/rubbing along the windscreen surface was very obvious. 

b)  How do clients carry the battery box and the recorder?  I'm primarily concerned about cables disconnecting/pulling out with movement.  Seems like the 9V batter can easily detach from the clip in point (I guess I expected a "box").       

c)  Per Chris Church:  The line input for the battery box for loud shows.  The mic input for quiet shows.  The plug in power should be always off.

d)  My understanding is that cards are more for arena/high crowd environments and omnis for a more rounder sound and for quieter environments.  Any comments on when to use which mic?

The internal mics as posted in the forum are actually very good.  The problem is that the sound quality is markedly decreased if the recorder is in a pocket.  My biggest concern is how to mount the CA-14s for what I want to do.   

5)  Any other insight on how to "wear" the recording equipment.  I've ready Zamana's post/question already, but would appreciate any other opinion from the experienced tapers.

Any opinions/advice would be GREATLY appreciated.  Please PM any info you feel should not be posted on this forum.




Offline Church-Audio

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2010, 03:16:06 AM »
Thank you everyone who assisted in my first post!

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130746.0

I ended up picking up a Sony PCM M10, and CA-14s (cards and omnis w/clips) and battery box. 

I have a lot of questions in preparation for taping in New Orleans next week!  Obviously I will be recording a lot of jazz/blues.  Please respond as if this were a hypothetical stealth taping situation.  Please PM me if any of you feel certain topics should not be discussed.

**Yes, I have read the manual and have briefly skimmed through the forums.  I would greatly appreciate insight from those with experience**

1)  Regarding recording mode:  I can record up to LCPM 96/24.  However, what is typically recommended for quality, yet space efficiency?

2)  I understand that tapers use the hold button to lock their settings during the sound check. However, I don't think the recording level can be locked in place?  That seems be a weakness with the PCM M10?  What do I gain by using the hold button?

3)  Regarding setting recording level:  My limited understanding is that I want to keep volume levels under -12 db to avoid distortion.  I've read it is best to manually set the recording level.  I've read that it is best to keep recording levels low then boost if needed when editing.  As a new taper, I want to keep things as simple and idiot proof as possible.  Questions: 

a)  Why not use the limiter function to avoid distortion?
b)  Why not use the auto recording level mode? 
c)  Do I need to tape the recording level knob to set the recording level in place (if manually setting the recording level)?
d)  Should the mic sensitivity be set to high or low?
e)  Should the low cut filter be on or off?

4)  Regarding mics:

a)  How do you recommend mounting the mics for taping in a hypothetical stealth situation?  The CA-14s are rather large and when I trialed placing the mics under a jacket, any movement/rubbing along the windscreen surface was very obvious. 

b)  How do clients carry the battery box and the recorder?  I'm primarily concerned about cables disconnecting/pulling out with movement.  Seems like the 9V batter can easily detach from the clip in point (I guess I expected a "box").       

c)  Per Chris Church:  The line input for the battery box for loud shows.  The mic input for quiet shows.  The plug in power should be always off.

d)  My understanding is that cards are more for arena/high crowd environments and omnis for a more rounder sound and for quieter environments.  Any comments on when to use which mic?

The internal mics as posted in the forum are actually very good.  The problem is that the sound quality is markedly decreased if the recorder is in a pocket.  My biggest concern is how to mount the CA-14s for what I want to do.   

5)  Any other insight on how to "wear" the recording equipment.  I've ready Zamana's post/question already, but would appreciate any other opinion from the experienced tapers.

Any opinions/advice would be GREATLY appreciated.  Please PM any info you feel should not be posted on this forum.
Before you ask allot of questions try using the search feature on the board. I am working on instructions but they will never cover things like how to "hide" microphones for obvious reasons. I send allot of customers here because this is the single best resource on the Internet. And its also impossible to tell you "exactly" how to get a great recording.. I make gear that makes that possible but there are so many variables in live recording that personal experience is one of the only ways to "learn" how to make a good recording in the first place.

Chris Church
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Offline Humbug

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2010, 05:08:42 AM »
pm on way
UK based taper: MK4>Nbox Platinum>PCM-M10
AT853C>CA9200 / PIPsqueak>Tascam DR-2D

http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/Humbug66

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2010, 09:43:15 AM »
Thanks Humbug!

As stated above, I have reviewed the forums and read the manual.  If anyone has constructive advice pertaining to my situation and equipment, I would be grateful for the input. 

Again, as stated above, I do not want this subject line to become another anti-stealth rant and do not mean to stir up any emotions.  Please PM me any info you feel will rile the feathers of anyone.  I do think that input on the questions above would be a useful compilation for newbie tapers.

Thanks in advance for all input (useful or otherwise) :)

stevetoney

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2010, 12:10:41 PM »
Thank you everyone who assisted in my first post!

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130746.0

I ended up picking up a Sony PCM M10, and CA-14s (cards and omnis w/clips) and battery box. 

Congratulations.  You'll thoroughly enjoy this rig.


I have a lot of questions in preparation for taping in New Orleans next week!  Obviously I will be recording a lot of jazz/blues.  Please respond as if this were a hypothetical stealth taping situation.  Please PM me if any of you feel certain topics should not be discussed.

**Yes, I have read the manual and have briefly skimmed through the forums.  I would greatly appreciate insight from those with experience**

There have been debates for years now and some people assume ALL stealth should never be discussed.  The bottom line that many/most agree on is that stealth discussion doesn't need to be hidden because there are many legitimate uses of stealth techniques.  With that said...I'll proceed to your questions...

1)  Regarding recording mode:  I can record up to LCPM 96/24.  However, what is typically recommended for quality, yet space efficiency?

24/48 is what most use.  Most people can't hear the difference between 24/48 and 24/96 except perhaps in the perfection of the studio environment.  Live recording isn't perfection, so save the space on your flash card and go with 24/48.

2)  I understand that tapers use the hold button to lock their settings during the sound check. However, I don't think the recording level can be locked in place?  That seems be a weakness with the PCM M10?  What do I gain by using the hold button?

I've never relied on a hold button, so I wouldn't consider it much of a weakness of of the M10 personally.  Yeah, it might be nice to have, but I personally wouldn't miss it. 

The main thing tapers want in a hold button is so nothing gets changed if the deck gets bumped or tripped over during the show.  However, most tapers like to tweek their levels as the show goes on because the soundguy will usually start the show soft but then as the night goes on the volume gets louder and louder.  So, as the level creeps up, some people might like to back our levels down to compensate. 

Personally, I'm a set it and forget it guy, so that's why I don't use the hold button.

EDIT TO ADD:  One thing that you will learn the hard way is that the more you goof around with your gear during a show, the more likely you are to mess something up.  Try to avoid the temptation of checking your levels every 5 minutes because you just don't need to.  Believe me, the more you put your hands on your gear, the higher the chances you'll screw your recording up.

I've recorded enough that, with the exception of checking now and then to make sure I still have battery power to everything, I set it and forget it.

3)  Regarding setting recording level:  My limited understanding is that I want to keep volume levels under -12 db to avoid distortion.  I've read it is best to manually set the recording level.  I've read that it is best to keep recording levels low then boost if needed when editing.  As a new taper, I want to keep things as simple and idiot proof as possible.  Questions: 

To avoid peaking, you want to keep your levels below 0db (not -12db).  If you go above 0db, you might get some clipping/distortion.  However, it makes no sense to run your levels up so that you have only a tiny amount of headroom because whenever there's a loud passage during the show, suddenly you will be peaking.  So, to compensate for that, keep your levels down around -12db and that way you'll never have to worry during the show about peaking because a show RARELY increases volume so much that you'd be peaking if you start at -12db. 

Since you're recording in 24bit, you can then use your computer program in post to adjust the levels up to closer to 0db for optimum listening conditions. 

In the old days of 16bit (or if you ever for some reason decide to record at 16bit instead of 24...which I'd NEVER do) the above logic does not hold because if you record at -12db, you might lose some 'hotness' of the show.  Lots of people got better sound out of their gear when they pushed closer to 0db...but that was 16bit and that is a concern of the past and no longer true...as long as you don't record in 16bit.

a)  Why not use the limiter function to avoid distortion?
  Because when the limiter kicks in, you usually will hear the dynamics of the recording change audibly.  Some limiters are better than others, but the bad limiters will literally destroy a recording.  The good ones are fairly transparent.  However, if you're running at -12db with plenty of headroom, then it's a non-issue because you'd never have to worry about going over, so you never would have a situation where the limiter kicked in, regardless of whether the limiter is engaged or not.  Since I always run with TONS of headroom, I don't worry about the position of the limiter...I could care less if it is on because it will never kick in anyway.

b)  Why not use the auto recording level mode? 

For the same basic reason as some people avoid using the limiter.  For me personally, ALC is MUCH worse feature to engage than the limiter.  ALC can falsely change your levels during the show and add some dynamics to the sound that, in some cases, may be disastrous to your recording.  It all depends on how well and how transparent your specific product implements this feature.  However, best to avoid it altogether because, if you leave enough headroom with running at -12db and adjust up in post, then it's a moot point.  This is the logic that 99.999% of tapers use.

Consider the times when a band might go very very low volume for the sake of emotion and effect.  If you have auto level on, at that point the deck might automatically adjust your levels so they're raised up to compensate for the low volume.  It defeats the purpose that the band had when they added that low volume passage to the music.

Why destroy the dynamics of the show by engaging ALC and having every sound peak at the same volume level during a show?  Even if your recorder does ALC perfectly, to me that would cause your recording to be BOOOORRRRRING!

c)  Do I need to tape the recording level knob to set the recording level in place (if manually setting the recording level)?

I can't really answer this question, since I've never used the D10. 

d)  Should the mic sensitivity be set to high or low?

99.9% of the decks I've ever used, the mic sens is set to low for live music recording.  You'd set it to high if you wanted to use the mics for recording...say...a lecture or perhaps chamber music.

e)  Should the low cut filter be on or off?

This depends on whether the music in the venue is really really bass heavy.  Most people say to NEVER use the low cut filter because you can always adjust the bass using EQ in post.  On the other hand, if a show is soooo bass heavy that the bass predominates, I'd consider using this filter to your advantage. 

Experience will dictate for you when to use this, but in general starting out, I'd say to leave it off.

4)  Regarding mics:

a)  How do you recommend mounting the mics for taping in a hypothetical stealth situation?  The CA-14s are rather large and when I trialed placing the mics under a jacket, any movement/rubbing along the windscreen surface was very obvious. 

Hmmm...I'll leave this for others, although searching the web for 'kangol ventair' should give you an idea.

b)  How do clients carry the battery box and the recorder?  I'm primarily concerned about cables disconnecting/pulling out with movement.  Seems like the 9V batter can easily detach from the clip in point (I guess I expected a "box").     


Tape the cable connector down after connection if you're worried about them pulling out.  Cable extensions, right angle connectors and having lots of slack can be useful to achieving your goal too.  Regarding cable concealment, velcro and hoodies.

c)  Per Chris Church:  The line input for the battery box for loud shows.  The mic input for quiet shows.  The plug in power should be always off.

Agree...although I never use mic in.

d)  My understanding is that cards are more for arena/high crowd environments and omnis for a more rounder sound and for quieter environments.  Any comments on when to use which mic?

Coincidentally, I just discussed this question in another post yesterday...

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=131749.msg1731263#msg1731263

The internal mics as posted in the forum are actually very good.  The problem is that the sound quality is markedly decreased if the recorder is in a pocket.  My biggest concern is how to mount the CA-14s for what I want to do.   

In general, the higher up the better...thus hat mounts tend to be good...but some people swear by shirt collar mounting. 

5)  Any other insight on how to "wear" the recording equipment.  I've ready Zamana's post/question already, but would appreciate any other opinion from the experienced tapers.

Any opinions/advice would be GREATLY appreciated.  Please PM any info you feel should not be posted on this forum.

There really has been a TON of public discussion on this subject...and it comes up over and over.  I think if you're diligent, you'll find the answers you're looking for about this part of your post.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2010, 12:37:35 PM by tonedeaf »

ilduclo

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2010, 12:17:43 PM »
needing to tape down the volume adjustment, probably not.

Offline rhinowing

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2010, 12:59:52 PM »
about the levels--if you're running in 24 bit you can keep them WELL below 0db and then amplify without getting background noise. I've run as low as -20 on my r-09 and then boosted without any issues. additionally, you won't have to worry about the sound guy incrementally boosting levels. Hold button is great because you won't accidentally bump the stop button if you've got the recorder in your pocket.
Please contact me if you've ever taped the Smashing Pumpkins or a related group!

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2010, 01:03:00 PM »
Hold button is great because you won't accidentally bump the stop button if you've got the recorder in your pocket.

Good point Rhino.  I suppose I should have mentioned in my earlier response that I don't use the hold button because I'm an open taper.  I do remember way back when I had a D8 and did some undercover, that the hold on the D8 was pretty handy while the deck was in my pocket.

Offline Aladar

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2010, 03:06:19 PM »
If anyone has a spare time in their hands, I could use some stealth placement tips too - venues here are not used to taping, and bouncers often act totally illogicaly/jerkish so even if the artists is taper-friendly, they could have problems with it just so they can kick a guy out (seriously, I know a club where bouncers are bunch of nazis that LOVE to start fights)..

stevetoney

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2010, 03:24:03 PM »
If anyone has a spare time in their hands, I could use some stealth placement tips too - venues here are not used to taping, and bouncers often act totally illogicaly/jerkish so even if the artists is taper-friendly, they could have problems with it just so they can kick a guy out (seriously, I know a club where bouncers are bunch of nazis that LOVE to start fights)..

This is why I tape in taper friendly clubs and target taper friendly bands...so I can open tape without having to worry about that type of stuff.

Anyway, all I'm gonna say more about mic placement is this...kangol ventair, black clothing, long hair, velcro, meshy material, coat hangers, hoodies, double layer clothing, inner slits/openings.  The rest is up to you.

I will offer up this additional suggestion...learn to operate your gear in the dark by feel without looking at it.  Seriously, practice at home with the lights out.  It forces you to learn where the buttons are by heart and having the lights out forces you not to cheat.  So, once you're good you'll know all the important buttons by heart so that you know that the record button is...like for example...three up, two over.  Stop is the big one on the left.  Stuff like that. 

Do stuff like practicing changing out SD cards and batteries by feel too...learn which direction the positive male battery nub goes and into which battery slot...and so on.

One of the most important tips for effective stealthing is to learn not to take your gear out to look at it...especially during the first 10 minutes of the show. 
« Last Edit: February 04, 2010, 03:38:06 PM by tonedeaf »

Offline Aladar

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2010, 06:05:54 PM »
If anyone has a spare time in their hands, I could use some stealth placement tips too - venues here are not used to taping, and bouncers often act totally illogicaly/jerkish so even if the artists is taper-friendly, they could have problems with it just so they can kick a guy out (seriously, I know a club where bouncers are bunch of nazis that LOVE to start fights)..

This is why I tape in taper friendly clubs and target taper friendly bands...so I can open tape without having to worry about that type of stuff.

Anyway, all I'm gonna say more about mic placement is this...kangol ventair, black clothing, long hair, velcro, meshy material, coat hangers, hoodies, double layer clothing, inner slits/openings.  The rest is up to you.

I will offer up this additional suggestion...learn to operate your gear in the dark by feel without looking at it.  Seriously, practice at home with the lights out.  It forces you to learn where the buttons are by heart and having the lights out forces you not to cheat.  So, once you're good you'll know all the important buttons by heart so that you know that the record button is...like for example...three up, two over.  Stop is the big one on the left.  Stuff like that. 

Do stuff like practicing changing out SD cards and batteries by feel too...learn which direction the positive male battery nub goes and into which battery slot...and so on.

One of the most important tips for effective stealthing is to learn not to take your gear out to look at it...especially during the first 10 minutes of the show.

Thanks for the tips!
Sadly, there probably aren't any taper-friendly clubs.. Usually, it's OK with everyone once you manage to get it into the venue (and don't bother anyone), but I want to avoid problems by having it mounted on open - we have like, five tapers at most here, so people won't know what's going on..

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2010, 10:13:14 PM »
Thank you all very much, especially tonedeaf! 

This is the plan:

1)  Record in 24/48

2)  Manually set recording level (mic sensitivity low, low cut filter off, limiter off).  Set recording level between  -16 db to -12 db.  I want to set and forget as well.  If I can boost levels later, then this sounds like the easiest way to do it.   

3)  Regarding the hold button, I need to review the manual tonight and see if it truly will prevent the stop button from being activated during a recording.  I did not think it did?

3)  Regarding wearing my gear, I picked up a scottevest shirt (even though my girl says it's unabomber like).  The inside pocket is even transparent to check recording levels. 

http://www.scottevest.com/v3_store/Tec_Shirt.shtml

4)  Regarding mic placement and type, I have some ideas, but still contemplating.  The CA-14s are just not meant to be hidden.  I'll probably be using the cards more often during audience recordings in probably crowded venues (it is Mardi Gras!).  I'm really not sure how I'll manage to keep the cards pointed towards the musicians while clipped to the shirt collars.

These mics were also mentioned:

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-TFB-2

Much easier to wear for my purposes.  Any opinions on this mic or similar in ear style vs the CA-14s?  My hair is long, typically in ponytail which is probably convenient for my needs.

Again, much appreciated information.  My first trip to New Orleans, birthplace of jazz.  Very excited to record some great music!         


Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2010, 10:38:20 PM »
Regarding this mic:

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-TFB-2

Which battery box would be recommended for my use? 

Thank you! 

Offline rhinowing

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2010, 12:22:29 AM »
any of the box sound pros lists...I personally the SPSB-10. If you're set on sound pros for a mic and don't want to blow a lot of money, I'd recommend the BMC-2 over the TFB-2 though
Please contact me if you've ever taped the Smashing Pumpkins or a related group!

Offline acidjack

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2010, 10:01:10 AM »
I don't understand the need for special shirts and all these modified clothes for holding a recorder and BB. The M10 is small and fits in a pants pocket.  Just pull it out and discretely glance at the levels for 2-3 secs.  Doubt there will be a problem.  Or if it's cold enough wear a light jacket with an inside pocket.  The BB can go in your back pocket, or even in the same pocket. I second the SPSB-10 as a battbox.  It uses a tiny 12v battery instead of a 9v, and it's plastic, so it is extremely light and versatile.

I've never heard anything with that TFB-2 mic that was worth listening to again.  Not the case for the CA-14s.  But as always, YMMV. 

Thank you all very much, especially tonedeaf! 

This is the plan:

1)  Record in 24/48

2)  Manually set recording level (mic sensitivity low, low cut filter off, limiter off).  Set recording level between  -16 db to -12 db.  I want to set and forget as well.  If I can boost levels later, then this sounds like the easiest way to do it.   

3)  Regarding the hold button, I need to review the manual tonight and see if it truly will prevent the stop button from being activated during a recording.  I did not think it did?

3)  Regarding wearing my gear, I picked up a scottevest shirt (even though my girl says it's unabomber like).  The inside pocket is even transparent to check recording levels. 

http://www.scottevest.com/v3_store/Tec_Shirt.shtml

4)  Regarding mic placement and type, I have some ideas, but still contemplating.  The CA-14s are just not meant to be hidden.  I'll probably be using the cards more often during audience recordings in probably crowded venues (it is Mardi Gras!).  I'm really not sure how I'll manage to keep the cards pointed towards the musicians while clipped to the shirt collars.

These mics were also mentioned:

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-TFB-2

Much easier to wear for my purposes.  Any opinions on this mic or similar in ear style vs the CA-14s?  My hair is long, typically in ponytail which is probably convenient for my needs.

Again, much appreciated information.  My first trip to New Orleans, birthplace of jazz.  Very excited to record some great music!       
Mics: Schoeps MK4V, MK41V, MK5, MK22> CMC6, KCY 250/5, KC5, NBob; MBHO MBP603/KA200N, AT 3031, DPA 4061 w/ d:vice, Naiant X-X, AT 853c, shotgun, Nak300
Pres/Power: Aerco MP2, tinybox v2  [KCY], CA-UBB
Decks: Sound Devices MixPre 6, Zoom F8, M10, D50

My recordings on nyctaper.com: http://www.nyctaper.com/?tag=acidjack | LMA: http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/acidjack | twitter: http://www.twitter.com/acidjacknyc | Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/acidjacknyc

stevetoney

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #15 on: February 05, 2010, 10:15:32 AM »
I don't understand the need for special shirts and all these modified clothes for holding a recorder and BB.

For the most part, I agree with you.  My only comment is that I think more people are concerned with the mic end when it comes to special rigging ideas.  I also understand how a noob, by virtue of the fact that they're new to this, is just trying to cover his bases by asking some questions with some level of detail.  For a noob, there's probably a heightened intimidation factor at first that those that have been doing this for awhile have learned to deal with.

Having said this, I must say that there was more than once when I was caught stealthing back in the day when the only reason I was caught was that the bouncer saw me take my recorder out for a couple of seconds.  It might be only a couple of seconds, but it's the act of looking and the lights that are the giveaway.

Offline acidjack

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2010, 10:28:19 AM »
I don't understand the need for special shirts and all these modified clothes for holding a recorder and BB.

For the most part, I agree with you.  My only comment is that I think more people are concerned with the mic end when it comes to special rigging ideas.  I also understand how a noob, by virtue of the fact that they're new to this, is just trying to cover his bases by asking some questions with some level of detail.  For a noob, there's probably a heightened intimidation factor at first that those that have been doing this for awhile have learned to deal with.

Having said this, I must say that there was more than once when I was caught stealthing back in the day when the only reason I was caught was that the bouncer saw me take my recorder out for a couple of seconds.  It might be only a couple of seconds, but it's the act of looking and the lights that are the giveaway.
On the mic end, I completely agree that it's a different story. There is certainly one modified piece of clothing I can't live without for that.

As to the recorder, back when there weren't tons of flashing screens everywhere, and recorders were huge, I had to use the whole fanny pack thing. But now I just don't see the point.  The only time I ever got busted was actually the one time I tried to do a stupid modification to my clothes and thought that was a good excuse to check levels all the time...
Mics: Schoeps MK4V, MK41V, MK5, MK22> CMC6, KCY 250/5, KC5, NBob; MBHO MBP603/KA200N, AT 3031, DPA 4061 w/ d:vice, Naiant X-X, AT 853c, shotgun, Nak300
Pres/Power: Aerco MP2, tinybox v2  [KCY], CA-UBB
Decks: Sound Devices MixPre 6, Zoom F8, M10, D50

My recordings on nyctaper.com: http://www.nyctaper.com/?tag=acidjack | LMA: http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/acidjack | twitter: http://www.twitter.com/acidjacknyc | Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/acidjacknyc

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #17 on: February 06, 2010, 01:33:58 PM »
Thanks all for the responses and input:

I've been practicing with the gear/settings.  I turned up the volume on a acoustic guitar CD.  Sorry I don't know how "high" it was turned up, but any higher and I would have woken up the neighbors and we live on 3 acres in the country:

1)  I needed to use the high mic sens setting or levels would not reach the -12 db level
2)  When using line input (CA-14s/battery box), levels would not reach the -12 db setting
3)  Hold button is great to keep the recording from accidentally stopping after starting the session!
4)  When mics were mounted in the hat (supposedly with no acoustic loss):  The Omnis sounded much better vs the cards.  Is that because of the low volume I was recording at?  The cards sounded only marginally better than the internal mics.
5)  When setting levels for around -12 db, should the peak level marker on average be hitting the -12 db level?  Is that the goal?

When I am finally recording live, what might I expect?  I'm thinking:  Mic sens low, line input, cardiod mics if I am in a crowded venue?  Is this reasonable? 

I'll probably do another experiment again; mid-day (so as not to bother anyone).  I'll put in some brass jazz band, really turn up the volume and see how the recording levels respond. 

Thanks for any responses.

Offline fmaderjr

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #18 on: February 06, 2010, 06:22:37 PM »
I don't understand the need for special shirts and all these modified clothes for holding a recorder and BB. The M10 is small and fits in a pants pocket.

Me neither. I can fit an M10 and one of the smaller 9 volt battery boxes in a large front pocket of a shirt (hole in pocket for cable to go out and up my back to mics in my hat).

I much prefer 9 volt battery boxes-they're pretty small now and you can go a lot longer before you need to worry about changing the battery.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2010, 06:24:52 PM by fmaderjr »
AT853's (all caps)/CM-300 Franken Naks (CP-1,2,3)/JBMod Nak 700's (CP-701,702) > Tascam DR-680
Or Sonic Studios DSM-6 > M10

ilduclo

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2010, 02:55:36 PM »
I don't understand the need for special shirts and all these modified clothes for holding a recorder and BB. The M10 is small and fits in a pants pocket.

Me neither. I can fit an M10 and one of the smaller 9 volt battery boxes in a large front pocket of a shirt (hole in pocket for cable to go out and up my back to mics in my hat).

I much prefer 9 volt battery boxes-they're pretty small now and you can go a lot longer before you need to worry about changing the battery.

qft, plus if you are in doubt about the state of your battery in the box, it is easy to get a 9v replacement at any convenience store ..........12 v mini? not so much

Offline fmaderjr

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2010, 03:48:44 PM »
qft, plus if you are in doubt about the state of your battery in the box, it is easy to get a 9v replacement at any convenience store ..........12 v mini? not so much

Another good reason why I won't even consider anything but a 9 volt battery box.
AT853's (all caps)/CM-300 Franken Naks (CP-1,2,3)/JBMod Nak 700's (CP-701,702) > Tascam DR-680
Or Sonic Studios DSM-6 > M10

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2010, 04:30:35 PM »
Thanks to everyone who posted and PM'd me on this subject line.  I think I'm good to go for now.  There was no way I could have got to this point without the input of the forum members here.  Please comment on my recordings when I get back! 

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #22 on: February 18, 2010, 09:05:30 PM »
Final comments (just got back from a bunch of taping in New Orleans):

1)  Need to use the mic-in jack with my set up (Sony PCM 10, CA-14s omnis) or it seems like I need to kick up the recording level too high which causes a "clicking" noise?

2)  Despite comments by other members, the shirt is awesome.  It has holes in all pockets which makes connections from recorder to BB to mics to hat very easy.  Also, it was very easy to access the recorder to check levels and not worry about hitting/moving the recorder level when putting the recorder back into the pocket.  Great for the newbie stealth person to easily access the recorder during the easiest time to be spotted. 

3)  Hold button is awesome to get everything ready for taping/recording.  I got everything ready before walking into the venue or in the restroom and started recording, then set "hold".  Then I just needed to check recording levels once the music started.

4)  CA-14s are NOT stealth mics.  I wish I had heard about the SP-CMC-8s before.  CA-14s can be hat mounted by are still rather large.  I can't see mounting the CA-14s any other way besides a hat.  The CMC-8s give you other options.

5)  Velcro strips/gaffers (electrician tape) are useful items to keep things organized and tidy.

6)  Got some ok and some GREAT recordings.  Best recording was in a small venue, we were situated about 30 ft from the stage front, my back was against a wall, the ceiling only in our location was about 10 ft (so we were kinda in a cave approx 10 ft x 15 ft).  I'm sure the venue soundboard person was awesome as well, but the recording came out great (in my opinion).  I wish I could replicate this everywhere! 

Please see my final subject line once I figure out what to use to edit/cut/paste the final recordings.  I'll post links to some of the uncompressed recording.  Thanks for the input!

Offline fmaderjr

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #23 on: February 18, 2010, 11:01:10 PM »
CA-14s are NOT stealth mics.  I wish I had heard about the SP-CMC-8s before.  CA-14s can be hat mounted by are still rather large.  I can't see mounting the CA-14s any other way besides a hat.  The CMC-8s give you other options.

To each his own. In this case, IMO you give up something in the sound by going smaller. The CA-14s (which are half the price) and the CMC-4's (which are cheaper and are based on AT853's instead of 943's) sound better. If I'm "wearing my mics" I'd never go back to any other mount than a hat, so the larger size doesn't bother me. If switchable caps are important, I'd recommend the CMC-4's instead.

For me, CA-14's definitely are stealth mics. People who have Schoeps or AKG actives don't seem to have a problem stealthing with them. It's all in the technique.

I don't get why so many people want all their equipment as small as possible, even though equipment that is a little larger would sound better and/or be easier to operate in a stealth situation and would still not be difficult to stealth with.
AT853's (all caps)/CM-300 Franken Naks (CP-1,2,3)/JBMod Nak 700's (CP-701,702) > Tascam DR-680
Or Sonic Studios DSM-6 > M10

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #24 on: February 19, 2010, 09:45:13 AM »
Thank you.  Nice post.  No one has mentioned that the CA-14s/CMC-4s sound significantly better than the CMC-8s.  I'll take that into consideration.  I appreciate the input.

CA-14s are NOT stealth mics.  I wish I had heard about the SP-CMC-8s before.  CA-14s can be hat mounted by are still rather large.  I can't see mounting the CA-14s any other way besides a hat.  The CMC-8s give you other options.

To each his own. In this case, IMO you give up something in the sound by going smaller. The CA-14s (which are half the price) and the CMC-4's (which are cheaper and are based on AT853's instead of 943's) sound better. If I'm "wearing my mics" I'd never go back to any other mount than a hat, so the larger size doesn't bother me. If switchable caps are important, I'd recommend the CMC-4's instead.

For me, CA-14's definitely are stealth mics. People who have Schoeps or AKG actives don't seem to have a problem stealthing with them. It's all in the technique.

I don't get why so many people want all their equipment as small as possible, even though equipment that is a little larger would sound better and/or be easier to operate in a stealth situation and would still not be difficult to stealth with.

Offline fmaderjr

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #25 on: February 19, 2010, 10:22:46 AM »
I've never used CM-8's myself but a number of tapers who's opinions I respect have said that CM-4's (AT853's) and CA-14's do sound better than CM-8's (AT943's). I do know the 853's and the CA-14 sound tremendous.
AT853's (all caps)/CM-300 Franken Naks (CP-1,2,3)/JBMod Nak 700's (CP-701,702) > Tascam DR-680
Or Sonic Studios DSM-6 > M10

Offline acidjack

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #26 on: February 19, 2010, 12:53:34 PM »
I've never used CM-8's myself but a number of tapers who's opinions I respect have said that CM-4's (AT853's) and CA-14's do sound better than CM-8's (AT943's). I do know the 853's and the CA-14 sound tremendous.

I would clarify this only to say that the CMC-4 **cardiods** sound better than the CMC-8. The CMC-8 omnis IMHO are just as good as the CMC-4.  The hypers on both I find to be pretty weak.

You can achieve the best of both worlds by buying the CMC-8 bodies and then using adapters to add the CMC-4 caps, though that's not the cheapest option.
Mics: Schoeps MK4V, MK41V, MK5, MK22> CMC6, KCY 250/5, KC5, NBob; MBHO MBP603/KA200N, AT 3031, DPA 4061 w/ d:vice, Naiant X-X, AT 853c, shotgun, Nak300
Pres/Power: Aerco MP2, tinybox v2  [KCY], CA-UBB
Decks: Sound Devices MixPre 6, Zoom F8, M10, D50

My recordings on nyctaper.com: http://www.nyctaper.com/?tag=acidjack | LMA: http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/acidjack | twitter: http://www.twitter.com/acidjacknyc | Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/acidjacknyc

Offline taperwheeler

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #27 on: February 19, 2010, 12:57:45 PM »
And going with 943 bodies (smaller body), adapter and 853 caps you get a smaller setup than you would with 853 bodies.  Also agree that that the omni's are equally good in the 943/853 models.  The 853 cards, imo are much better than 943's.

I've never used CM-8's myself but a number of tapers who's opinions I respect have said that CM-4's (AT853's) and CA-14's do sound better than CM-8's (AT943's). I do know the 853's and the CA-14 sound tremendous.

I would clarify this only to say that the CMC-4 **cardiods** sound better than the CMC-8. The CMC-8 omnis IMHO are just as good as the CMC-4.  The hypers on both I find to be pretty weak.

You can achieve the best of both worlds by buying the CMC-8 bodies and then using adapters to add the CMC-4 caps, though that's not the cheapest option.
Mics: SP-CMC-8 AT933 Body 4.7K mod AT853 (c, sc) U853 (h) Microline Shotguns
Pres: CA 9100, SP-Preamp
Recorders: MT2 , Tascam DR-07, PCM-M10, PCM A10

Offline hieye

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #28 on: February 19, 2010, 01:48:44 PM »
Great info on the CM-4s and CM-8s. 

What's the consensus when comparing the CA-14 cards and CM-4 cards?  I've never even used the CA-14 cards yet as I've heard that recording is much more difficult with cards (having to keep more still, pointed to the target, cannot cover vents ,etc).  In addition, when comparing the "sound" of the CA-14 cards and omnis at home, the omnis sounded much better.   

I like the CM-4 body + adapter + CM-8 caps (omnis) idea best.  I can anticipate a lot of situations where the hat mount will not work.

Thanks for the opinions!

Offline fmaderjr

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Re: New Taper: Part II: Set up for taping
« Reply #29 on: February 19, 2010, 02:16:52 PM »
I would clarify this only to say that the CMC-4 **cardiods** sound better than the CMC-8. The CMC-8 omnis IMHO are just as good as the CMC-4.  The hypers on both I find to be pretty weak.

This makes sense, as it very hard to make tiny cardiods, especially with decent bass response.

I tend to forget about omnis because you have to be in a sweet spot without too much crowd noise around you to get a better recording than you would with cards. I've made a few great omni recordings, but screwed up a high enough percentage that I haven't tried them in a couple of years. I take it that many here make fabulous omni recordings, but I think it's a lot less idiot proof than recording with cards. I like to keep things real simple.

Many here agree with acidjack about the CMC-4 hypers, but I've been very happy with my recordings with them when I was seated pretty far back in a large indoor venue. I also love the subcardiods.
AT853's (all caps)/CM-300 Franken Naks (CP-1,2,3)/JBMod Nak 700's (CP-701,702) > Tascam DR-680
Or Sonic Studios DSM-6 > M10

 

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