Topic: Squeezing Two Neutriks Together

[stevetoney]

I just got a SD702 and the XLR connectors are really close together.  I've had my cables coming out at a 45 degree angle upward and to the right (when looking straight onto the connector end of the 702).  This was nice because that shoots the cables straight out of my bag with a minimum of cable bending.  The problem though is that in this position, only one of the Neutriks will seat all the way down so that it locks.  The other Neutrik goes in far enough for the cable to work, but not far enough to lock in.  Also, it requires a little bit of jamming force to get the second Neutrik in far enough to make a connection.  I didn't want to do this long-term because with enough use I might damage the connectors on the box.  So I changed them so that they go straight up...in this position the connectors fit better and I can get the cables to lock down now, but it's still not ideal and now the cables aren't in as good a position in my bag...they have to do a quick 90 degree turn to come out the top of my bag.

I'm sure others have encountered this issue.  What I'd most like to do is take the Neutriks apart and make stubbies out of them, but I really don't know what to do to make the stubbies.  I've only seen pictures and I like!

Another option would be to grind a little bit of metal off the side of the Neutriks so they don't interfere with each other...so that they kinda mate up a little better. 

So, what do ya'll recommend? 

Any old threads out there on how to make the stubbies?

[Todd R]

The older style Neutrik RA connectors do not fit well on the 722/702, as you've discovered.  One option is to change the exit angle of the cable in the RA XLR.  Those style neutriks allow 7 different exit angles, every 45 degrees except straight up.  You can easily change this angle by unscrewing the two screws that hold on the back, and then pushing the actual connection portion up into the body of connector to unseat it, rotate that portion as desired, and then reseating it and putting it all back together.

It sounds like you've got the cables coming out something like this: / /

The connectors won't fit together if they exit at the same angle.  So you'd need to change it to something like: | /  or \ /

If you offset the two cables so each exits at a slightly different angle, they will fit together on the 702.

The other option is to rebuild the cables using the new RA connectors that Neutrik came out with a couple months ago.  These are slimmer and will fit together better in tight spaces.  Or make the custom stubbies.

[KLowe]

unless some serious precautions are taken to control the epoxy flow.

with the jb weld.  Let the mixture set up for about 1-2 minutes.  This will help control the epoxy mixture from messing up the females.

[stevetoney]

Thanks for the suggestions folks...+t to everyone. 

Is jbweld commonly available or you gotta go to the web to find it?

[flipp]

Every hardware and auto parts store should have it; even the dreadedmuch maligned wallyworld stocks it.

[boojum]

Um, uh, have you thought about just taking the 702 out of the bag???

[George2]

What about just getting a bigger bag. Bigger is better.

[stevetoney]

Um, uh, have you thought about just taking the 702 out of the bag???

Boojum...thanks for the suggestion, but taking the 702 out has nothing to do with the solution I'm seeking. 

The problem is that the XLRs are really close together on the 702 and my Neutrik connectors don't fit right.  Besides, the bag is what keeps beer and cigarette ashes from getting all over my expensive piece of gear when there's a house full of drunks at a show.  There's no way I'm gonna keep it unprotected in that situation, which is why the Portabrace bags are nice, because you have the window to see through.

As far as the suggestion of getting a bigger bag, a new set of connectors on the end of my cables is a much less expensive and more attractive alternative...which again is why I posed the question the way I did. 

Thanks for the suggestions though.

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

before I made my stubbies, I was using the standard neutrik RA connectors.  The only way to get them both to seat properly was to angle the barrels so that one of them pointed up at 45 degrees up and the other down 45 degrees resulting in the cables exiting the panel with 90 degrees between each other. 

If you don't like that and you are using the portabrace made for the 722, you can use the straight connectors and then just loop them back into the back and keep the snorkle sealed.  You can take the rubber end off of the back of the shell and get a little bit lower profile but not as low as the RAs.

I have not used the new neutrik RAs yet but if those allow you to change the angle of the barrel, they would do exactly what you want because the shell is streamlined so they should exit in parallel without the caps interfering. 

The smallest solution is to make or buy some of the stubbies mentioned above.

I'm with you on using the small bag.  I use a portabrace accessory pouch.  It has the window and is even smaller than the bag intended for the 722.


edit:spelling

[stevetoney]

Thanks LKJ.  You clarified everything for me.  I'm gonna try my hand with some stubbies over the weekend. 

[rowjimmytour]

Thanks LKJ.  You clarified everything for me.  I'm gonna try my hand with some stubbies over the weekend. 

I made some SDB patch stubbie cables w built in -20dB pads for my R4 that work nice w/ all 4 XLRS(2x RA for mics).
PEace

[Nick's Picks]

what I do for stubbies...

order the MX series.  you dont have to cut anything.
Dremal out a good sized U notch.
use a grommet to put the cable into, and then slide into the U cut.
epoxy, viola!

for the female ends, i'm going to give away one of my trade secretes.
I use gas tank repair putty, which you can find at any automotive shop or hardware store.
its like an epoxy clay.  you roll it around to mix the two parts together and it has the consistency of play dough. 
Cram it in the female end nice and tight...it wont mess up the part that needs to retain some movement to release the little pin when you go to unplug it.
you can then mold the end to look how you want...even stamp a big R and L in them.  ( I use colored rubber coating to identify).
you can also epoxy over it so that the look is consistent. 
This stuff is non-conductive (needs to be, as it is for gas tank repair), and works like a freakin' charm.
drys in minutes.

[rowjimmytour]

what I do for stubbies...

order the MX series.  you dont have to cut anything.
Dremal out a good sized U notch.
use a grommet to put the cable into, and then slide into the U cut.
epoxy, viola!

for the female ends, i'm going to give away one of my trade secretes.
I use gas tank repair putty, which you can find at any automotive shop or hardware store.
its like an epoxy clay.  you roll it around to mix the two parts together and it has the consistency of play dough. 
Cram it in the female end nice and tight...it wont mess up the part that needs to retain some movement to release the little pin when you go to unplug it.
you can then mold the end to look how you want...even stamp a big R and L in them.  ( I use colored rubber coating to identify).
you can also epoxy over it so that the look is consistent. 
This stuff is non-conductive (needs to be, as it is for gas tank repair), and works like a freakin' charm.
drys in minutes.
That epoxy clay works like a charm for many jobs including plumbing, carpentry, and thanks to Nick taping. +t for bringing clay epoxy to taping Nick. I forgot about this when I was making my stubies.
Peace