Topic: WTF? AT XLR Power Adapters Won't "Click" into FP24 XLR Inputs

[BayTaynt3d]

Got an interesting problem. I recently bought an FP24 mostly for video work, but I am also thinking about using it in my stealth setup at times too considering I own a pair of phantom-modded AT943's in addition to my other mics. What's strange is that the AT (not Samsung) power adapters won't "click" into the FP24 XLR inputs. Well, actually one won't click in and the other one just barely clicks in (so tightly that I actually got worried it jammed in so I couldn't get it out, but I thankfully did). Now, I can just seat the XLRs without clicking them in, and it records fine (like the UA5), but for stealthing, it sure would be nice to know they were clicked in tight and never coming out. Funny thing is, all of my XLR cables click into the FP24 no problem -- like butter. So, it's obviously the AT power adapters are too big or the clip holes are set back too far or something... WTF? I am just screwed or what? I guess I could use some really short interconnects, but for stealthing, less is more, so I'm trying to avoid that.

Any ideas or tips? Anyone ever dealt with this problem before?

[Sanjay]

Mine didn't fit either, i had to use a short 1ft xlr pair to get it into it.  I didn't wanna risk jamming it in.  I think the Samson PM4 adapters do fit though from my recollection. 

[jeromejello]

a little off topic, but i had a similar problem with samsons going into a ps-2.  the at's were a much better fit.  fussy xlrs i guess.

[Zaphod]

Get some XLR extensions to plug into the pre. My adapters won't click-in right straight into the MP2.

[drewloo]

The problem is that the outer housing is too long to allow the plugs to fully engage in the xlr socket and needs to be shortened (or effectively shortened).  Here's what I did w/ my mp-2 and at8533x power modules to make them fit:

1.  take apart the power module by removing the three screws
2.  carefully slide the xlr part out of the housing--there's a contact in there that makes contact w/ the outer housing so be carefull w/ this, especially when reinserting the xlr/innards back into the housing.  You'll have to tuck it in when reassembling.
3.  disconnect the three wires secured w/ screws.  I was shortening the cables for stealthing so I had to do all of this anyways, but it's not a big deal at all to disconnect/reconnect the wires.
4.  now that everything is apart take the outer housing and use a metal file or a bench grinder to carefully grind down the open end of the outer housing.  Take off about .75mm.   Reassemble the power module being carefull w/ the springy contact--tuck it in.  Now the outer housing is short enough to be able to fully insert the power modules and get that 'click' that we all like.  Let me know if it's not clear enough--I was in a hurry to type this at work, but basically you want to decrease the distance between the exterior screws and the end they're closest to. 

Someone else did it a different way by elongating the holes the exterior screws go in towards the same end that I just filed down.  Either way it gets the housing out of your way so the xlr's will hold securely.

[BayTaynt3d]

I was thinking the solution was something like that. What's stopping me from grinding down .75mm without disassembling? Why not just grind it down as is?

Also, I actually need a pair of interconnects anyway. Where a good place to get short right-angle interconnects?

[thegreatgumbino]

I was thinking the solution was something like that. What's stopping me from grinding down .75mm without disassembling? Why not just grind it down as is?

Also, I actually need a pair of interconnects anyway. Where a good place to get short right-angle interconnects?

Don't know if the cable / pin termination directions on the custom shorty end will work with the piece of gear you are using, but if it does I've got these for sale:

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=58149.0

[drewloo]

I was thinking the solution was something like that. What's stopping me from grinding down .75mm without disassembling? Why not just grind it down as is?

Also, I actually need a pair of interconnects anyway. Where a good place to get short right-angle interconnects?

What you're trying to do is make the xlr-part longer, not smaller.  That's why you need to grind down the shell and not the smaller xlr-part. 

I was thinking the solution was something like that. What's stopping me from grinding down .75mm without disassembling? Why not just grind it down as is?

Also, I actually need a pair of interconnects anyway. Where a good place to get short right-angle interconnects?

Don't know if the cable / pin termination directions on the custom shorty end will work with the piece of gear you are using, but if it does I've got these for sale:

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=58149.0

These would be perfect for you if the pins match up correctly, which I bet they do since they were made for a 148.

[BayTaynt3d]

Well, on the termination pins front, I'll start showing my wookness. Not sure.

But... I could see two uses for a pair of short interconnects:

1 - AT943 > AT XLR Power Adapter > INTERCONNECT > FP24 > JB3

and...

2. XLR > FP24 > INTERCONNECT > UA5 > JB3

Now #2 might seem a bit weird, and I was actually going to make a post about that sometime, but haven't yet. Thing is, I bought the FP24 as a video pre/mixer more than anything. But now that I have it, I might use to stealth (#1 above), but I was also thinking there might be times to run it in front of the UA5, essentially using the FP24 as a pre with limiter and the UA5 as an A/D (#2 above). Is that a stupid idea? Anyone every do that?

Would Gumbino's interconnects for for those situations?

Thanks!

[thegreatgumbino]

These interconnects will work in both situations, it's just a matter of how finicky you are in regards to where the cables fall due to the pin assignments being sealed in the epoxy.  If you look at the pics in my yard sale post and look at the pin assinments on your FP24, you should be able to visualize how the connections will be made.

[thegreatgumbino]

This might help you decifer more easily.

The red cable:
Shorty RA xlr cable terminates @ 8:00
Standard RA xlr cable terminates @ 6:00

The black cable:
Shorty RA xlr cable terminates @ 11:00
Standard RA xlr cable terminates @ 6:00