Topic: Modding a cigar caddy to hold active bodies

[acidjack]

I know a lot of people who use Schoeps KC5>CMC6 or similar active style setups run the bodies in a cigar caddy.  Is there anything "to it" other than simply taking a drill and making two holes?

In particular, has anyone had bad luck trying to drill in the area where the two sides meet (which would be the optimum place for the cable to exit)?  Is it better to just drill in one side or the other? 

[Yes, if you were wondering, I am really that bad at using tools]

[StuStu]

I know a lot of people who use Schoeps KC5>CMC6 or similar active style setups run the bodies in a cigar caddy.  Is there anything "to it" other than simply taking a drill and making two holes?

In particular, has anyone had bad luck trying to drill in the area where the two sides meet (which would be the optimum place for the cable to exit)?  Is it better to just drill in one side or the other? 

[Yes, if you were wondering, I am really that bad at using tools]

It's really easy. I drilled on both sides where they meet. I recommend putting something such as cloth or whatever between the CMC bodies or the KC5 can scratch the body next to it.

[acidjack]

I know a lot of people who use Schoeps KC5>CMC6 or similar active style setups run the bodies in a cigar caddy.  Is there anything "to it" other than simply taking a drill and making two holes?

In particular, has anyone had bad luck trying to drill in the area where the two sides meet (which would be the optimum place for the cable to exit)?  Is it better to just drill in one side or the other? 

[Yes, if you were wondering, I am really that bad at using tools]

It's really easy. I drilled on both sides where they meet. I recommend putting something such as cloth or whatever between the CMC bodies or the KC5 can scratch the body next to it.

Thanks.  Duly noted on separating the bodies. Much appreciated.

[it-goes-to-eleven]

It depends on the type of plastic.  Some plastics are very difficult to drill without cracking, even in the circumstances.  When drilling something molded/cast, not flat, etc, it could be more tricky.   Conventional twist bits are also part of the problem - they tend to auger in, and that contributes to cracking.  Sometimes the best bit for plastic is made by cutting a nail or coat hanger and just drilling with the rough end.  That'd probably be a bit small for what you're doing. Another option is grinding the holes with a dremel like tool.

Melting through the plastic is another option, though the fumes are very toxic.

Don't forget some gromets for the holes.

[rowjimmytour]

It depends on the type of plastic.  Some plastics are very difficult to drill without cracking, even in the circumstances.  When drilling something molded/cast, not flat, etc, it could be more tricky.   Conventional twist bits are also part of the problem - they tend to auger in, and that contributes to cracking.  Sometimes the best bit for plastic is made by cutting a nail or coat hanger and just drilling with the rough end.  That'd probably be a bit small for what you're doing. Another option is grinding the holes with a dremel like tool.

Melting through the plastic is another option, though the fumes are very toxic.

Don't forget some gromets for the holes.

A bit that is in good condition and a decent drill will solve all these problems and don't push hard let the bit do all the work

[StuStu]

The cigar caddy was really easy to drill through. It isn't like an otter box; that would a little tougher to do.  http://www.cigarcaddy.com/products_detail.asp?ID=577

[F.O.Bean]

I  know its not as durable, but when I had my MBHOs and now w/ my Busman Actives, I just use a small cotton hand towel and some clear packaging tape. The nbodies NEVER TOUCH and its more lo-pro

That said, the cigar caddy is def more durable but I take extremely good care of my rig so I dont need a bulky cigar caddy

[jbell]

I used a Drilled out cigar caddy for active bodies and what I did is started with a small drill bit and stepped it up several time until I got the desired diameter.  I would also recommend cutting the material that provides a seal before drilling.  Super easy and a durable solution.

[Teen Age Riot]

If you want to keep the bodies from getting scratched and maintain a low profile at the same time, I recommend shrink-wrapping them. It doesn't look pretty, but it works. It can also be a bit tedious to unwrap them again, so it only makes sense if you intend to use them like that for a while.

I used to do that with my MBHO 603A's when I still cared about what they looked like. 

This stuff also worked well, but it wasn't as sturdy:

[acidjack]

If you want to keep the bodies from getting scratched and maintain a low profile at the same time, I recommend shrink-wrapping them. It doesn't look pretty, but it works. It can also be a bit tedious to unwrap them again, so it only makes sense if you intend to use them like that for a while.

I used to do that with my MBHO 603A's when I still cared about what they looked like. 

This stuff also worked well, but it wasn't as sturdy:

Hmm..that does seem easy!

[it-goes-to-eleven]

I am a big fan.  Shrink it down, trim it up:

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=50520.msg655624#msg655624

I use standard heat shrink and it has the benefit of making the Schoeps OD closer to the slightly larger Gefell OD. That's convenient for my shock mounts.

Since a lot of folks won't want the OD to increase, there is heat shrink that is much thinner than the standard stuff.  Another key is not getting overly large tube, because the more it shrinks, the thicker the tube wall becomes.

[page]

If you want to keep the bodies from getting scratched and maintain a low profile at the same time, I recommend shrink-wrapping them. It doesn't look pretty, but it works. It can also be a bit tedious to unwrap them again, so it only makes sense if you intend to use them like that for a while.

I used to do that with my MBHO 603A's when I still cared about what they looked like. 

This stuff also worked well, but it wasn't as sturdy:

Hmm..that does seem easy!

I vote for thin pipe insulation and rubber bands. That's basically what I've done since I was too lazy to get heat shrink. Just don't get the type that has adhesive on the inside.

I once rolled them in paper towels and rubberbanded that together... 

[F.O.Bean]

If you want to keep the bodies from getting scratched and maintain a low profile at the same time, I recommend shrink-wrapping them. It doesn't look pretty, but it works. It can also be a bit tedious to unwrap them again, so it only makes sense if you intend to use them like that for a while.

I used to do that with my MBHO 603A's when I still cared about what they looked like. 

This stuff also worked well, but it wasn't as sturdy:

Hmm..that does seem easy!

I once rolled them in paper towels and rubberbanded that together... 

If it aint broke then dont fix it

[Big Perm]

Pipe installation = cheap, lowpro, & extremely effective! (6ft for $0.97 at Lowe's)

[jbell]

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=143728.0

In this thread there is a pic of my old setup with the cigar caddy!