Topic: R09HR Line-in Repair Details and Photos

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

I bought a R09-HR and on arrival the line-in jack was broken. Mic-in worked fine but line-in would not show a signal. I played around with it using various cables and eventually decided that the jack needed to be replaced.  I ordered a replacement part from roland (about $6 for the part and about $10 to send it too me). 

[edit: I originally typed $60 but the part was really $6]

It took about 30 minutes to do the job.  If I had not been taking photos of each step it probably would have taken about 12 minutes. I have had the unit open once before to see if the jack was a discrete part and not molded into an assembly, so having that previous experience helped. The first time I was in there took much longer because I was being excessively careful to not damage anything.

The tools required were:

1.6mm phillips screwdriver
desoldering soldering iron (the kind with a bulb)
soldering iron
solder
flux solvent

I'm posting this for anyone who is interested. If you need to replace the mic-in or line-in jack and you have even the slightest reservation about doing the work, send it to one of the several other members with the skill to perform the repair properly or send it back to roland.

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

Step 1: 

remove the rear battery bay cover.  There are three counter sunk screws on each side and four screws around the perimeter of the battery bay.  Remove these 10 screws and set them aside.  Note that each step pulls a set of screws that are slightly different than the previous ones so it would be helpful to have them sorted in individual bins as you go along.

After the screws are removed, pull straight up on the rear cover and expose the circuit assembly. The back side of the assembly has surface mounted switches with plastic toggles that set between the circuit board and rear cover.  Collect these and set them aside.

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

Step 2:

With the rear cover removed, the circuit assembly is exposed. Remove the four screws that hold the switch assembly in place and lift the board straight up.  It does not require any prying. Remove the single screw to the right of the battery compartment floor. Set the board aside with it's associated screws.

The next layer of the assembly has the line in jack.  Detach the power connector and remove the four screws holding the plastic frame.  The middle assembly can now be separated from the rest of the shell.

Note that the internal mic assembly and main board are connected by a ribbon cable.  I chose to remove the entire center parts as one without disconnecting the ribbon cable.  That type of connector has a limited number of insertions that it will tolerate and I've seen them fail in the lab so I chose to leave it attached in this case.  It isn't necessary to disconnect the mic board.

The third picture shows the shell with the middle assembly removed.

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

Step 3:

With the center assembly removed, the jack can be replaced. The pads are in the lower right of the board when viewed from the solder side and on the lower left when viewed from teh component side.  There are surface mounted switches on each side of the board and the plastic actuators float between the board and the shell. Note that the "+" will need to be oriented toward the mics when reassembling or they will not properly contact the switch.

The part number to order from roland is shown below. Always inspect the part and compare it to the one being replaced before doing any desoldering.

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

Step 4:

Remove the old jack.  I used a desoldering iron with a suction bulb. Solder wick works too but the bulb will draw out the solder from the via. After I desoldered the forth pin, the old part just fell out.

Install the new jack.  Use a light touch. Too much heat will likely lift the foil off of the board. Clean up the area with some flux solvent and inspect the joints.

[Lil Kim Jong-Il]

Step 5:

Reassemble the unit.  Set the mic assembly and battery tray in their respective locations.  Place the plastic switch actuators and seat the main board.  Check the orientation of the actuators.  You will be able to feel the switch actuate if the everything is aligned correctly. Install the four screws that were removed in step 2 and reattach the power cable.  The screws need to be seated only. Don't over tighten them.  Install the screw that holds the battery tray to the front of the shell.  Don't over tighten.

Place the back switch assembly board, press it into place, and replace the four screws that were removed in step two.

Note that when installing the center board and the back board, be gentle and sure of the alignment before pressing them into place. It takes very little pressure to mate the connectors.

Before installing the back of the shell, put a black plastic actuator on each of the surface mount switches.  Be sure that the toggle switch is properly placed in the center of the black plastic part. Place the back of the shell by setting it straight down with the switches aligned to their holes.  It is possible to have the actuator off center and still fit the back of the shell.  You'll know this when you find that one of the switches doesn't move anymore. Test the switches, then install the four screws that were removed from the perimeter of the battery bay.  Install the six countersunk screws, three on each side.

Test the line in to see that it now works.

[stevetoney]

Brilliant!  Great work on both the repair and the instructional piece!

[jibooer]

Awesome tutorial...good to know what you're getting into before you start.

[DigiGal]

 Nice job, thanks for sharing.