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Author Topic: Speaker spikes and wood floors  (Read 5958 times)

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Offline lds490

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Speaker spikes and wood floors
« on: March 10, 2006, 07:52:57 AM »
My speaker stands are equipped with spikes, which appears to be standard on high-end audio.  I have wood floors and don't want them damaged.  My impression is that spikes are mostly used to penetrate carpet and connect the speaker with the solid floor underneath.  Is this true?  Should I remove the spikes entirely since my speakers are on the wood floor?  Or should I put a piece of plastic or something under the spikes?
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Offline it-goes-to-eleven

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2006, 08:04:14 AM »
FWIW, Von Schweikert says not to use spikes on wood. Of course the VR4 have no trouble conveying the bass, even when floated on rubber feet.

http://www.vonschweikert.com/manuals/manual_vr_4_sr.pdf

FLOORING: If you have a hardwood floor, (especially without carpeting), there is the
possibility that vibration and resonance will be transferred to the floor, which will then
act as a passive radiator. The floor resonance will sound like extra mid-bass is being
added to the sound, and will smear the bass notes as well, since the floor will vibrate
long after the woofers stop moving. On bare hardwood floors, it will be necessary to
decouple the speakers with the spikes placed on the discs or rubber decoupling feet
supplied or products such as Sorbothane by Audioquest. The use of spikes is best
suited for carpeted floors and will result in some transmission to wood floors.


Offline Daryan

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2006, 09:27:36 AM »
Get 8 spike stoppers.  They are basically small metal discs that you insert the spike into.  I will look when I get home, I have a sneaking suspicion I have 8 that you can have. 
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Offline JasonR

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2006, 10:01:48 AM »
Spike stoppers or other discs made for that purpose are good, but pennies blue-tacked to the floor will work in a pinch.

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Offline scervin

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2006, 10:41:09 AM »
Aren't all floors wood except your basement??   ;D   The VS literature is pretty bad, first they say not to use spikes and then say to use spikes with the disc.  I still don't see how this decouples  it from the floor.  Only way to really do such is to hang the speaker from the ceiling.

I might have some around the house.  I prefer using a nickel.

Offline jpschust

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2006, 11:29:30 AM »
Aren't all floors wood except your basement??   ;D   The VS literature is pretty bad, first they say not to use spikes and then say to use spikes with the disc.  I still don't see how this decouples  it from the floor.  Only way to really do such is to hang the speaker from the ceiling.

I might have some around the house.  I prefer using a nickel.

sorry i just had this thought of hanging my b&ws that weigh in at a cool 75 or so lbs a piece from my concrete ceilings!
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Offline lds490

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2006, 11:43:18 AM »
Y'all more or less confirmed what I was thinking.  Thanks.  I am going to hang a rear center speaker from my ceiling to make my HT a six channel system, but am not considering hanging my front main speakers.  I'm on the verge of buying a new subwoofer and was wondering about feet/cones/spikes on the wood floor.  I've got an idea of what I want to do now--all I need is some money.
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Offline scervin

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2006, 12:32:54 PM »
I'm actually surprised they didn't come with floor protectors.

To decouple from the house I think you need to fix up a magnetic system to "float" the speaker.  They they would be decoupled.  This would also cause problems.  Just hook the speakers to the most rigid thing you can find. That manual is some poor writing.  Engineers..... ;D

cshepherd

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2006, 08:57:41 PM »
Spikes underneath speakers help open up the midrange and give more space to instruments.  I have not heard a speaker that didn't benefit from their use, regardless of the type of flooring.  Pennies are an easy (and cheap...about 4 cents) solution for wood floors.  Some people use heavy-duty Vibrapods for their speakers, too.  It's all about vibration control.

Chris

Offline Daryan

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2006, 10:26:56 PM »
I have vibrapods between my speakers and stands and the improvement was fairly signifigant.  I believe I have 2 #4's in the front, and 2 #3's in the rear as that is how my speakers are weighted.
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Offline Tim

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2006, 12:50:46 AM »
My speaker stands are equipped with spikes, which appears to be standard on high-end audio.  I have wood floors and don't want them damaged.  My impression is that spikes are mostly used to penetrate carpet and connect the speaker with the solid floor underneath.  Is this true?  Should I remove the spikes entirely since my speakers are on the wood floor?  Or should I put a piece of plastic or something under the spikes?

great question, I just moved into a loft with hard wood floors and concrete walls... damn, it's gonna be a while before I tame this shit.Already put down a shag area rug, getting a fluffy couch, need something on the big wall behind the couch

edit to add: I have left my spikes on for now - it will be a few weeks before I have this room figured out ::)
« Last Edit: March 11, 2006, 12:58:53 AM by Tim »
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Offline jpschust

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2006, 08:43:30 AM »
My speaker stands are equipped with spikes, which appears to be standard on high-end audio.  I have wood floors and don't want them damaged.  My impression is that spikes are mostly used to penetrate carpet and connect the speaker with the solid floor underneath.  Is this true?  Should I remove the spikes entirely since my speakers are on the wood floor?  Or should I put a piece of plastic or something under the spikes?

great question, I just moved into a loft with hard wood floors and concrete walls... damn, it's gonna be a while before I tame this shit.Already put down a shag area rug, getting a fluffy couch, need something on the big wall behind the couch

edit to add: I have left my spikes on for now - it will be a few weeks before I have this room figured out ::)

tim, don't know what your ceilings are like, but i've got ribbed concrete ceilings.  in the highest point in the ceiling between the beams we are going to be putting acoustic paneling painted to match the concrete.  the idea is to make it as non noticable as possible.  the biggest way to tame a room like that is with furniture and a rug.
Quote from: Todd Snider
They say 3 percent of the people use 5 to 6 percent of their brain
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I'll never know which one I am but I'll bet you my last dime
99 percent think with 3 percent 100 percent of the time

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2006, 10:32:32 AM »
My spikes are fitted into these small metal cups with plastic pads connected to them and felt pads below.
I used Silicone to hold them on, so when I move the speaks to clean they stay on.

Got 'em from the hardware store, cost about $2 for each pack of four. They are about 1/4 inch dia. cups and the plastic disks with the felt is about dime-sized.

It's interesting to note that the vibration transmission through dissimilar materials is better reduced than with the spikes alone.
The spikes will actually "nail" the speakers to the floor eventually, causing much greater coupling than without them.

Alternately, a finished wooden board can be placed below the spikes, if you want greater coupling to the floor.

Offline Daryan

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Re: Speaker spikes and wood floors
« Reply #13 on: March 11, 2006, 01:00:50 PM »
If you still need some spike stoppers, I found a bunch you may have.
Microtech Gefell 200/210->Zaolla Silverlines->Fostex FR-2 (oade modified plus other self mods)

Playback: Bolder modified Squeezebox SB3 (building linear power supply)->Bolder Cable Modified Panasonic XR-45 with bybee's->Bolder Nitro speaker cables->VMPS Audio super modified 626r's, VMPS Larger SUB, 1000w class AB sub amp
Tweaks: isolation and room treatments, silclear, BPT 1.5r Power Conditioner (modified), isoblocks, vibrapods, many others

 

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