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Offline charles

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Info on Building Own Desktop
« on: July 02, 2006, 06:15:56 AM »
I want to upgrade from the dell I have and build mu own desktop. I was curious if anyone with experience in this could direct me to some sites tha offer information on the process as well as links tosites that sell the parts needed and are well priced and reputable. Anyone got this kind of info. Any help would be great. Thanks.
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Offline MattD

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2006, 06:54:54 AM »
Out of the game … for now?

Offline Evil Taper

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2006, 08:29:39 AM »
Best places to buy parts are:

newegg.com and pricewatch.com

If you want to go with a PC then I would highly recommend going with an AMD processor and an Asus motherboard.  Both of those sites offer AMD/Asus combo packages to save you some money.  AMD processors are the alternative to Pentium and support nearly 100% of anything an authentic Pentium chipset runs.  The advantage of AMD is the cheaper price and the higher reliability, life and overclockability..don't be fooled by the big name company, it's like buying Nike because of the name.  I don't think I've ever known a custom PC builder who preffers pentium over AMD, but it's up to you.  The price differance might be insignificant so go with what you like.  Here's what you're going to need to build your custom pc:

1.)  A case (you might be better off buying one with a power supply already installed to save some headache with wiring) - size is up to you, get one with an easily removable side panel though so you can get at the internals easily, saves tons of time and effort doing installs.
2.)  Power supply (unless your case comes with one)
3.)  Case fans - get at least 2 decent sized fans, some cases come with them installed also.
4.)  Motherboard and Processor combo - you should buy these as a combo from a reputable dealer (like newegg.com).  You'll want to buy a nice sized heatsink as well to keep the processor cool.  Some places will sell the combo already installed and others will send them seperately.  If they don't come installed have someone else install the processor.  You need to press the processor onto the motherboard firmly and if done improperly you can ruin the processor or board.  Sometimes people will not have the pins properly aligned and bend them by forcing the parts together or you can even ruin it by pressing too hard while installing and cracking the board.  So that's why you should either get them pre-installed, have a friend whose competent of the task do it or take it to a computer store and have them do it.  Have that same person mount the heatsink on the processor with thermal paste.  If you've never done this before or watched it being done many times DON'T DO IT.
5.)  System Memory aka RAM - you're going to have to look at the manufacturers website of the motherboard you buy (Asus for example if you go with an Asus board, which I'd highly recommend) to see what specific type of ram sticks your motherboard accepts.  Buy a gig of ram if you can afford it, you'll be glad you did.
6.)  Drives - I'd recommend buying 2 hard drives, one for the operating system and one for storage.  All you need is a 20-30gig drive for windows xp if you can find one that small, it might be cheaper to get a 40, 50 or 60 gig drive though depending on the sales going on.  Anywho, you install your operating system and any other programs and such on this drive ONLY, all saved data and music and such go on your large storage drive.  This saves time and headache when you want to reformat your system since you don't need to back anything up.  You have all your music and critical files on the storage drive so you only have to clean the windows drive off.  Also be sure to get a 3.5" floppy disk drive and then your dvd burner, dvd reader, cdr or whatever else you want to install on your system.  You NEED the 3.5" usually to get your system running so don't forget it, they're cheap anyway.
7.)  Video, Sound, USB, Firewire, LAN, Networking...cards.  Most newer motherboards have decent onboard (built in) sound and video processors but depending on what you're using the machine for you might want to install a better sound or video card.  The motherboard probably already has USB and Firewire slots built in as well, but if you want more inputs you can buy a USB2.0/Firewire card and install it.  You're going to either need a wireless networking or LAN card to connect to the internet, modem if you're on dialup.  Be sure to again check the specs on your motherboard to see what kind of slots are available on the board.  Newer motherboards should have the latest versions of PCI and AGP slots, so be sure to get cards made for the specific PCI/AGP speeds your board supports.  As you can tell, most of what you buy is dependant on the motherboard you choose.
8.)  Cables - The cables that come with drives are usually those flat grey pieces of crap that take up tons of space.  You'll be very glad if you spend the extra $20-30 for ROUND cables to hook up all of your drives.  Not only are the round cables much easier to install, they also keep your system much cooler by taking up less space which alows better air flow through the case.  You're going to need 1 cable with 3 plugs that connects BOTH hard drives to your motherboard.  Then depending on how many other drives you install you'll need cables to hook the rest of your gear up.  If you install both a burner and a cd/dvd reader get 1 cable to hook both of them together as well, I'll explain why during the install instructions.  Don't forget a nice cable for the floppy drive as well.


That's your shopping list, parts you buy are totally up to you.  Be sure to look at your motherboards specs before you buy any ram or expansion cards.  I'd recommend Serial ATA (SATA) hard drives over SCSI or EIDE drives since SATA is faster.  EIDE used to be the standard so if you're not going for top speed in your machine you can probably save a few dollars going EIDE, but go SATA if you can.  Just make sure that anything you buy is compatable with your machine and both hard drives must use the same connection (SATA or EIDE).  If it says Pentium compatable it will work in an AMD system as well.  You should buy the fastest processor you can afford so you don't get an itch to upgrade anytime too soon.  But if this is just an internet machine and not going to be doing intensive audio/video work get something cheaper.  Now I'll BRIEFLY explain how to put your new system together, I'd recommend looking up more detailed information subject by subject if you need too.  If you know much about computers you should be able to do this all yourself.


How to assemble your new PC
(Read all of the instructions before you start removing anything from packages!)

1.)  Install power supply and case fans in your new case.  Make sure there are enough power cords for all of the hard drives and media drives you purchased.  If there aren't enough you'll need to purchase Y-Adapters to split the power to the devices.  If your case has a removable motherboard tray, remove it now.  You can also remove the caps where your dvd/cd drives are going to be installed now to save some hassle later.
2.)  Open up your motherboards manual and read the section on setting jumpers.  There should be detailed information about jumper configuration for the initial bootup and for everyday use.  This is a CRUCIAL step, if you do it wrong your PC won't work.  You're not going to break anything if the jumpers aren't set properly but you will be kicking yourself in the head trying to figure out why your machine doesn't boot.  You read the instructions and installed the jumpers?  Now is a good time to run the power supply cables to the areas of the case where power will be needed.  You can read a few steps ahead if you're not sure what I mean.  You should run the power cables behind the motherboard so they don't get in the way of anything that moves.  Sweet, go to step 3. 
3.)  Connect your motherboard (with processor already installed of course, since you did that before you started assembly anyway) to the motherboard tray in the case.  Like I said in step 1, some cases have removable/slide out motherboard trays which makes it easier to install but if yours doesn't the tray will be built into the cases rack.  There should be only 1 proper way to mount your motherboard, the way that positions the keyboard/mouse/monitor connectors at the rear of the case.  The side of the motherboard with the processor and all the slots on it should be facing outward (towards you) if your confused still.  Screw that motherboard in there tight enough so it doesn't jiggle at all and then connect the power supply to the motherboard as shown in your instruction manual.
4.)  Install the System Memory (RAM) sticks into your motherboard.  Try to handle these as little as possible and only touch the top and side edges.  Avoid touching the connector if you can, you could kill your ram stick.  If you don't know which way the stick faces when installed look in your motherboard manual again and follow instructions.  Just be sure to have the stick perpendicular to the board when installing and firmly press it into place.  Once it's in the ram slot it should be tight and won't fall out, so be sure you push it in all the way.
5.)  Install the cards that you bought (video/sound/LAN/wireless networking/ect...) in the proper slots.  Again, look in the motherboard manual to identify the proper slots for each device.  They usually slide in snugly so just line the card up with the slot and push it firmly in place.  You'll need to remove the slot cover where the input/output of the cards fits in the rear of your case which is usually done by breaking the metal piece loose or just unscrewing them if your case has them screwed on.  Now screw the cards into place in the case rack and you're ready to move on.
6.)  Remove your hard drives from the packages and open the manuals to Jumper Settings.  Set the jumpers on your Windows drive (the smaller one) to Master.  The storage drive jumpers should be set to Slave.  Now mount the hard drives into your cases hard drive rack.  I'd recommend putting the Windows drive (master) in the top space and the storage (slave) drive directly below it.  Locate 2 power connector and connect them to the hard drives.  Now find that 3 connector cable you bought for your hard drives and insert the end connector to your Master drive, the middle connector to your Slave drive and the end of the cable connects directly to your motherboards SATA or EIDE slot depending what kind of drives you bought.
7.)  Install the 3.5" floppy drive now since the slot is usually kind of hard to get at.  Screw it in place and connect a power supply cable to it.  Now connect it to your motherboard with that nice round cable your bought.
8.)  Now it's time to install your CD/DVD drives.  If you're only installing one drive be sure to set the jumper on the back of the drive to MASTER (usually labelled with an M).  If you have multiple drives to install the 2nd drive must have the jumper set to SLAVE (usually labelled with an S).  I'd recommend using your CD/DVD reader as the MASTER device and the burner as the SLAVE device.  It doesn't really matter which goes where, but having the reader in the top position in your case will make you less prone to using your burner to play cds and what not.  I only use my burners for burning to maximize the life of the drive.  Now that you have the jumpers set you just need to slide the drives into their positions in the case (master on top, slave on bottom again) and screw them into place.  Locate 2 more power supply connectors and insert them into the drives.  Now find that final nifty round cable you bought for these drives and again insert the end connector to the MASTER, middle to the SLAVE and insert the other end in your motherboards slot.  If you bought a nice sound card there will probably be a small cable which you connect from the sound card to the drive you will be using for playing cds/dvds.  There will only be 1 place which the connector will fit, so just insert it there.
9.)  TAKE A BREAK.  Unless you bought anything extra like a case temperature display or all kinds of neons and shit your computer should be assembled.  Again, refer to the motherboard manual to do the next step.
10.)  You now need to load the BIOS onto your motherboard.  Some boards come pre-loaded with BIOS and others are not.  Procedures for loading BIOS on a motherboard are specific to each style of board so you're going to need to read the manual.  The reason you bought that 3.5" drive is to do BIOS installs and updates (and to run the windows recovery program if you ever need to) so you'll need to find the BIOS disk that came with your motherboard.  Follow the instructions in the manual for installing BIOS if your board is not preloaded and be sure to complete every step.  If the board was pre-loaded with the BIOS the jumpers were probably set to safety when you originally did the install.  If you had to manually install the BIOS you'll most likely need to switch the motherboard jumper from the open setting to a safety setting.  This is by far the most important part of the install!  If you do this wrong your PC will just beep at you when you turn the power on, so follow the instructions and do it right the first time.  Once you get the BIOS loaded on your motherboard, power your computer up again and enter the BIOS mode during bootup.  You're going to want to set your BOOT PRIORITIES in this order:

Hard Drive (Master)
CD/DVD Drive (Master)
3.5" Drive
CD/DVD Drive (Slave)
Hard Drive (Slave)

Once you do this you can exit the BIOS menu and you're ready to get your new machine up and running!  Insert the Windows XP disc into your Master cd/dvd drive and reset the machine.  The computer should first try to boot from the empty hard drive and then it should move to the XP disc and begin the install.  Complete the install and you've built your own machine!


I wrote this up myself just now so I might have left something out, but I tried to explain everything in plain english.  If you have any further questions feel free to ask.  You CAN do this yourself, so don't get intimidated.  If you have problems during the install I'm sure there's plenty of folks who can help you out.  Have fun!
« Last Edit: July 02, 2006, 08:34:31 AM by Evil Taper »
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Offline charles

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2006, 04:55:19 PM »

Thanks to both of you for the help!

Best places to buy parts are:

newegg.com and pricewatch.com

If you want to go with a PC then I would highly recommend going with an AMD processor and an Asus motherboard.  Both of those sites offer AMD/Asus combo packages to save you some money.  AMD processors are the alternative to Pentium and support nearly 100% of anything an authentic Pentium chipset runs.  The advantage of AMD is the cheaper price and the higher reliability, life and overclockability..don't be fooled by the big name company, it's like buying Nike because of the name.  I don't think I've ever known a custom PC builder who preffers pentium over AMD, but it's up to you.  The price differance might be insignificant so go with what you like.  Here's what you're going to need to build your custom pc:

1.)  A case (you might be better off buying one with a power supply already installed to save some headache with wiring) - size is up to you, get one with an easily removable side panel though so you can get at the internals easily, saves tons of time and effort doing installs.
2.)  Power supply (unless your case comes with one)
3.)  Case fans - get at least 2 decent sized fans, some cases come with them installed also.
4.)  Motherboard and Processor combo - you should buy these as a combo from a reputable dealer (like newegg.com).  You'll want to buy a nice sized heatsink as well to keep the processor cool.  Some places will sell the combo already installed and others will send them seperately.  If they don't come installed have someone else install the processor.  You need to press the processor onto the motherboard firmly and if done improperly you can ruin the processor or board.  Sometimes people will not have the pins properly aligned and bend them by forcing the parts together or you can even ruin it by pressing too hard while installing and cracking the board.  So that's why you should either get them pre-installed, have a friend whose competent of the task do it or take it to a computer store and have them do it.  Have that same person mount the heatsink on the processor with thermal paste.  If you've never done this before or watched it being done many times DON'T DO IT.
5.)  System Memory aka RAM - you're going to have to look at the manufacturers website of the motherboard you buy (Asus for example if you go with an Asus board, which I'd highly recommend) to see what specific type of ram sticks your motherboard accepts.  Buy a gig of ram if you can afford it, you'll be glad you did.
6.)  Drives - I'd recommend buying 2 hard drives, one for the operating system and one for storage.  All you need is a 20-30gig drive for windows xp if you can find one that small, it might be cheaper to get a 40, 50 or 60 gig drive though depending on the sales going on.  Anywho, you install your operating system and any other programs and such on this drive ONLY, all saved data and music and such go on your large storage drive.  This saves time and headache when you want to reformat your system since you don't need to back anything up.  You have all your music and critical files on the storage drive so you only have to clean the windows drive off.  Also be sure to get a 3.5" floppy disk drive and then your dvd burner, dvd reader, cdr or whatever else you want to install on your system.  You NEED the 3.5" usually to get your system running so don't forget it, they're cheap anyway.
7.)  Video, Sound, USB, Firewire, LAN, Networking...cards.  Most newer motherboards have decent onboard (built in) sound and video processors but depending on what you're using the machine for you might want to install a better sound or video card.  The motherboard probably already has USB and Firewire slots built in as well, but if you want more inputs you can buy a USB2.0/Firewire card and install it.  You're going to either need a wireless networking or LAN card to connect to the internet, modem if you're on dialup.  Be sure to again check the specs on your motherboard to see what kind of slots are available on the board.  Newer motherboards should have the latest versions of PCI and AGP slots, so be sure to get cards made for the specific PCI/AGP speeds your board supports.  As you can tell, most of what you buy is dependant on the motherboard you choose.
8.)  Cables - The cables that come with drives are usually those flat grey pieces of crap that take up tons of space.  You'll be very glad if you spend the extra $20-30 for ROUND cables to hook up all of your drives.  Not only are the round cables much easier to install, they also keep your system much cooler by taking up less space which alows better air flow through the case.  You're going to need 1 cable with 3 plugs that connects BOTH hard drives to your motherboard.  Then depending on how many other drives you install you'll need cables to hook the rest of your gear up.  If you install both a burner and a cd/dvd reader get 1 cable to hook both of them together as well, I'll explain why during the install instructions.  Don't forget a nice cable for the floppy drive as well.


That's your shopping list, parts you buy are totally up to you.  Be sure to look at your motherboards specs before you buy any ram or expansion cards.  I'd recommend Serial ATA (SATA) hard drives over SCSI or EIDE drives since SATA is faster.  EIDE used to be the standard so if you're not going for top speed in your machine you can probably save a few dollars going EIDE, but go SATA if you can.  Just make sure that anything you buy is compatable with your machine and both hard drives must use the same connection (SATA or EIDE).  If it says Pentium compatable it will work in an AMD system as well.  You should buy the fastest processor you can afford so you don't get an itch to upgrade anytime too soon.  But if this is just an internet machine and not going to be doing intensive audio/video work get something cheaper.  Now I'll BRIEFLY explain how to put your new system together, I'd recommend looking up more detailed information subject by subject if you need too.  If you know much about computers you should be able to do this all yourself.


How to assemble your new PC
(Read all of the instructions before you start removing anything from packages!)

1.)  Install power supply and case fans in your new case.  Make sure there are enough power cords for all of the hard drives and media drives you purchased.  If there aren't enough you'll need to purchase Y-Adapters to split the power to the devices.  If your case has a removable motherboard tray, remove it now.  You can also remove the caps where your dvd/cd drives are going to be installed now to save some hassle later.
2.)  Open up your motherboards manual and read the section on setting jumpers.  There should be detailed information about jumper configuration for the initial bootup and for everyday use.  This is a CRUCIAL step, if you do it wrong your PC won't work.  You're not going to break anything if the jumpers aren't set properly but you will be kicking yourself in the head trying to figure out why your machine doesn't boot.  You read the instructions and installed the jumpers?  Now is a good time to run the power supply cables to the areas of the case where power will be needed.  You can read a few steps ahead if you're not sure what I mean.  You should run the power cables behind the motherboard so they don't get in the way of anything that moves.  Sweet, go to step 3. 
3.)  Connect your motherboard (with processor already installed of course, since you did that before you started assembly anyway) to the motherboard tray in the case.  Like I said in step 1, some cases have removable/slide out motherboard trays which makes it easier to install but if yours doesn't the tray will be built into the cases rack.  There should be only 1 proper way to mount your motherboard, the way that positions the keyboard/mouse/monitor connectors at the rear of the case.  The side of the motherboard with the processor and all the slots on it should be facing outward (towards you) if your confused still.  Screw that motherboard in there tight enough so it doesn't jiggle at all and then connect the power supply to the motherboard as shown in your instruction manual.
4.)  Install the System Memory (RAM) sticks into your motherboard.  Try to handle these as little as possible and only touch the top and side edges.  Avoid touching the connector if you can, you could kill your ram stick.  If you don't know which way the stick faces when installed look in your motherboard manual again and follow instructions.  Just be sure to have the stick perpendicular to the board when installing and firmly press it into place.  Once it's in the ram slot it should be tight and won't fall out, so be sure you push it in all the way.
5.)  Install the cards that you bought (video/sound/LAN/wireless networking/ect...) in the proper slots.  Again, look in the motherboard manual to identify the proper slots for each device.  They usually slide in snugly so just line the card up with the slot and push it firmly in place.  You'll need to remove the slot cover where the input/output of the cards fits in the rear of your case which is usually done by breaking the metal piece loose or just unscrewing them if your case has them screwed on.  Now screw the cards into place in the case rack and you're ready to move on.
6.)  Remove your hard drives from the packages and open the manuals to Jumper Settings.  Set the jumpers on your Windows drive (the smaller one) to Master.  The storage drive jumpers should be set to Slave.  Now mount the hard drives into your cases hard drive rack.  I'd recommend putting the Windows drive (master) in the top space and the storage (slave) drive directly below it.  Locate 2 power connector and connect them to the hard drives.  Now find that 3 connector cable you bought for your hard drives and insert the end connector to your Master drive, the middle connector to your Slave drive and the end of the cable connects directly to your motherboards SATA or EIDE slot depending what kind of drives you bought.
7.)  Install the 3.5" floppy drive now since the slot is usually kind of hard to get at.  Screw it in place and connect a power supply cable to it.  Now connect it to your motherboard with that nice round cable your bought.
8.)  Now it's time to install your CD/DVD drives.  If you're only installing one drive be sure to set the jumper on the back of the drive to MASTER (usually labelled with an M).  If you have multiple drives to install the 2nd drive must have the jumper set to SLAVE (usually labelled with an S).  I'd recommend using your CD/DVD reader as the MASTER device and the burner as the SLAVE device.  It doesn't really matter which goes where, but having the reader in the top position in your case will make you less prone to using your burner to play cds and what not.  I only use my burners for burning to maximize the life of the drive.  Now that you have the jumpers set you just need to slide the drives into their positions in the case (master on top, slave on bottom again) and screw them into place.  Locate 2 more power supply connectors and insert them into the drives.  Now find that final nifty round cable you bought for these drives and again insert the end connector to the MASTER, middle to the SLAVE and insert the other end in your motherboards slot.  If you bought a nice sound card there will probably be a small cable which you connect from the sound card to the drive you will be using for playing cds/dvds.  There will only be 1 place which the connector will fit, so just insert it there.
9.)  TAKE A BREAK.  Unless you bought anything extra like a case temperature display or all kinds of neons and shit your computer should be assembled.  Again, refer to the motherboard manual to do the next step.
10.)  You now need to load the BIOS onto your motherboard.  Some boards come pre-loaded with BIOS and others are not.  Procedures for loading BIOS on a motherboard are specific to each style of board so you're going to need to read the manual.  The reason you bought that 3.5" drive is to do BIOS installs and updates (and to run the windows recovery program if you ever need to) so you'll need to find the BIOS disk that came with your motherboard.  Follow the instructions in the manual for installing BIOS if your board is not preloaded and be sure to complete every step.  If the board was pre-loaded with the BIOS the jumpers were probably set to safety when you originally did the install.  If you had to manually install the BIOS you'll most likely need to switch the motherboard jumper from the open setting to a safety setting.  This is by far the most important part of the install!  If you do this wrong your PC will just beep at you when you turn the power on, so follow the instructions and do it right the first time.  Once you get the BIOS loaded on your motherboard, power your computer up again and enter the BIOS mode during bootup.  You're going to want to set your BOOT PRIORITIES in this order:

Hard Drive (Master)
CD/DVD Drive (Master)
3.5" Drive
CD/DVD Drive (Slave)
Hard Drive (Slave)

Once you do this you can exit the BIOS menu and you're ready to get your new machine up and running!  Insert the Windows XP disc into your Master cd/dvd drive and reset the machine.  The computer should first try to boot from the empty hard drive and then it should move to the XP disc and begin the install.  Complete the install and you've built your own machine!


I wrote this up myself just now so I might have left something out, but I tried to explain everything in plain english.  If you have any further questions feel free to ask.  You CAN do this yourself, so don't get intimidated.  If you have problems during the install I'm sure there's plenty of folks who can help you out.  Have fun!

Man, you just wrote that up? Talk about going above and beyond the call...........what do you have goin' over there..a coffee IV!? I do thank you though. I think I've got everything I need now. Luckily, I'm a computer freak myself.....so everything you wrote is easy for me to understand. Maybe I should have specified that beforehand and you wouldn't have had to write so much. Probably better that you did anyway though. I'm semi-professional in regards to software, but not nearly as knowledgible w/ hardware. Again, thanks a bunch.
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Offline Evil Taper

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2006, 05:11:35 PM »
Yeah man, I have way too much energy all the time.  But if you run into any road blocks during your build I can probably help you out so good luck!  Since you're a super user you should get an AMD dual core processor and tell me how sick it is.  I've been debating upgrading again myself. :P
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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2006, 06:08:45 PM »
Yeah man, I have way too much energy all the time.  But if you run into any road blocks during your build I can probably help you out so good luck!  Since you're a super user you should get an AMD dual core processor and tell me how sick it is.  I've been debating upgrading again myself. :P

Might do the AMD dual core processor. If so I'll let you know. My reasoning for doing this was to learn more about the hardware side of a computer and upgrade at the same time. And I've also always been told by other computer freak friends that building your own is the way to go. My top priorities in the upgrade are a faster processor and I need at least 2 GB RAM. I started on computers way back when w/ Mac's and after 10 years made the PC switch. Started w/ basically what I have now. I've just increased the RAM. Started out w/ 256, moved to 512 and now I'm at a Gig and it's not cutting it for me. The 2.4GHz Pentium 4 isn't enough any more either. I'm one of those types who has zero patience or tolerance for a slow pace running a program. So, this is a neccesary action that I must take before my frustration level causes physical problems :)
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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2006, 09:58:29 PM »
This may be a ridiculous question, but can I use the Pentium 4 Processor that's in my current desktop. It's 2.4GHz which isn't bad, right? My biggest problem w/ my current computer is the speed....like when I'm running Wavelab and Photoshop at the same time. I want to be able to do that effortlessly. I thought my main need for that was more RAM. Am I wrong on this? If I could keep the processor, buy a motherbood that would accept my processor and would support say 4 GB RAM and installed that much RAM and any other components I desire, would that put me where I want to be? Or is there a whole lot more involved that I'm missing. Can I not make that kind of a computer w/o getting a processor with a higher operating frequency?
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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2006, 10:39:30 PM »
If you can locate a new motherboard that would accept 4gigs of ram and your processor you could TRY doing that.  In my opinion though, you're just trying to process more information than your chipset can handle.  More ram will allow your computer to buffer programs so there's less lag between processes.  To illustrate what you're doing visually, your computer works like a funnel - the more ram you add the bigger the funnel gets, but the spout on the end is still the same size; so you can pre-load more material but it's still all got to go through the same spout.  The beauty of the dual-core processors is that they allocate tasks nicely.  For example, one half of your processor will be running the system while the other half is free to execute those processor hungry A/V programs.  Theoretically you would be able to double your output with a dual-core, but I haven't used one in my own PC yet so I can't guarantee how fast they'll go.  You might be able to gain more speed by switching to faster hard drives and adding a decent video card to free some processing speed up.  Doing what you do is going to be hard on most machines though so you would be best off overkilling the build to give yourself some padding.  It won't be cheap, but it'll be an amazing machine until the software catches up again.
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Offline bhtoque

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2006, 05:11:35 AM »
Just two things to add:

www.zipzoomfly.com - as good as, and cheaper than newegg on some items.

www.tomshardware.com - more reviews and info than you could process. Great way to make sure what you think you want is really what you should get. I swear by their mobo/chipset shoot-outs.

I'm sure someone mentioned it already but use an ANTI-STATIC WRIST BAND!!!!

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RebelRebel

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2006, 06:50:03 AM »
bear in mind that most PC applications will not utilize over 2g of memory. 2 I would say is adequate for most any audio task.

FWIW, I just built a PC that is blazing fast using the following.

ECS KN1 Extreme Motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800 CPU
4 Gig Corsair RAM
2 36.7 gig HDs RAID 0 for OS/Program Files
2 150 Gig HDS RAID 0 for "official(ie make me money)" audio projects
1 x 400G HD for torrent/extra music,
1x 80 gig for documents/work templates/resumes
GE Force 7800 GT Dual Head PCIE Graphix Card
ESI Juli@ Sound Card

Windows XP Pro tweaked with www.musicxp.net

serves me very very well!

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2006, 01:17:11 PM »
+T for the exhaustive how-to.

I'm planning/hoping to build a new machine for myself soon and I think dual-core is the route i'm going to take. we have some new dual-core xeon servers here @ work and they give the dual processor boxes a serious run for their money (and cost a bit less.)
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Offline charles

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2006, 02:02:19 PM »
bear in mind that most PC applications will not utilize over 2g of memory. 2 I would say is adequate for most any audio task.

FWIW, I just built a PC that is blazing fast using the following.

ECS KN1 Extreme Motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800 CPU
4 Gig Corsair RAM
2 36.7 gig HDs RAID 0 for OS/Program Files
2 150 Gig HDS RAID 0 for "official(ie make me money)" audio projects
1 x 400G HD for torrent/extra music,
1x 80 gig for documents/work templates/resumes
GE Force 7800 GT Dual Head PCIE Graphix Card
ESI Juli@ Sound Card

Windows XP Pro tweaked with www.musicxp.net

serves me very very well!

Thanks for the information. The thing about the 2GB or more was for running Adobe Premiere and othe similar programs w/ video editing. I think they do require more memory. They require more something, because my computer can hardly handle them.
W/O Rig but Hopeful

Offline rocksuitcase

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2006, 03:21:09 PM »
bear in mind that most PC applications will not utilize over 2g of memory. 2 I would say is adequate for most any audio task.

FWIW, I just built a PC that is blazing fast using the following.

ECS KN1 Extreme Motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800 CPU
4 Gig Corsair RAM
2 36.7 gig HDs RAID 0 for OS/Program Files
2 150 Gig HDS RAID 0 for "official(ie make me money)" audio projects
1 x 400G HD for torrent/extra music,
1x 80 gig for documents/work templates/resumes
GE Force 7800 GT Dual Head PCIE Graphix Card
ESI Juli@ Sound Card

Windows XP Pro tweaked with www.musicxp.net

serves me very very well!
I have an  ESI Juli@ sound card purchased with kindms recomendation and it sounds sweet.  works well and has multiple output choices.
Thanks for the musicxp link Teddy!
music IS love

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RebelRebel

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #13 on: July 04, 2006, 06:42:39 AM »
No problem man, hope it serves you well!
bear in mind that most PC applications will not utilize over 2g of memory. 2 I would say is adequate for most any audio task.

FWIW, I just built a PC that is blazing fast using the following.

ECS KN1 Extreme Motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800 CPU
4 Gig Corsair RAM
2 36.7 gig HDs RAID 0 for OS/Program Files
2 150 Gig HDS RAID 0 for "official(ie make me money)" audio projects
1 x 400G HD for torrent/extra music,
1x 80 gig for documents/work templates/resumes
GE Force 7800 GT Dual Head PCIE Graphix Card
ESI Juli@ Sound Card

Windows XP Pro tweaked with www.musicxp.net

serves me very very well!
I have an  ESI Juli@ sound card purchased with kindms recomendation and it sounds sweet.  works well and has multiple output choices.
Thanks for the musicxp link Teddy!

Offline nihilistic0

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #14 on: July 13, 2006, 02:36:16 AM »


1.)  A case (you might be better off buying one with a power supply already installed to save some headache with wiring) - size is up to you, get one with an easily removable side panel though so you can get at the internals easily, saves tons of time and effort doing installs.



No.  PSU's that come with cases are generally garbage, and there's no 'confusing wiriing' issues to deal with.  Either way, you're gonna have to plug the PSU into certain places, but its pretty easy.  You can only plug shit into one place

When buying a separate PSU, the only extra work you have to do is screw it in your case, which takes all of 30 seconds.


Get a separate, good quality PSU.  Shitty PSU's lead to system instability and can possibly damage your PC
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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #15 on: July 13, 2006, 07:12:58 AM »
Really?  It's been a while since I've built a PC but I remember it being a pain in the ass....maybe there was something different involved with my setup to hide all the cables.  For cases though I'm very interested in the silent cases made from aircraft titanium and shit.  They're supposed to be soundproof and allow your system to run completely silent.  Last time I checked they were around $175 for the case though....steeep.  Do you think it really matters how huge of a PSU you install though?  I've never opted for the monsters but I did have 1 kid I built a video machine for want the huge one, but I don't think it made any performance differance at all.
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RebelRebel

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #16 on: July 13, 2006, 10:17:17 AM »
the best addition to my computer has been the tagan ezcon 530w PSU. all of the connectors are removable! You add and subtract whatever you need.

slickest psu ever. I paid 59 EUR for it, but it is well, well worth it. removeable connectors makes things so much easier....not to mention that they have like 10 of each connector in the box, youll never have to buy any..




selectable switchable 12V rails for univeral support of all ATX standards

• flexible cable management to optimize the space and airflow of the PC case

• universal connectors 20 or 24 and 4 or 8pin for all kind of motherboards

• two independent EMI shielded PCI-Express VGA connectors

• 120mm fan for whispering operation

http://www.tagan.com/

Offline rocksuitcase

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #17 on: July 13, 2006, 02:00:02 PM »
Do you think it really matters how huge of a PSU you install though?  I've never opted for the monsters but I did have 1 kid I built a video machine for want the huge one, but I don't think it made any performance differance at all.

yes, there is a difference in the power handling capabilities between PSU's.  Other than product specific items such as the removable cables Teddy speaks of, there is a major increase in the ability to add peripheral devices which consume more than 100mv ( most digi cameras, video cams, HDD's scanners etc)  and to operate power intensive internal devices such as video cards.  The "performance difference" is with the power handling, i.e. ability to handle and operate multiple devices all consuming more power than the original 250- 350 W PSU's can handle.  It is not perfomance measured by speed of processing or how fast applications perfom a certain task.

IF you are building the machine yourself, be sure to buy a case that has room for expansion and does not cramp your ability to replace or add components.

this is the case I bought for the PC that Kindms designed and helped build with me.  ( he did 80% of the work,  8) ;D)

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/Products.aspx?pid=634

This is the hardware list: pretty simple. This machine was designed to transfer and process large files.

SAPPHIRE 100561L Radeon 9600PRO 128MB DDR AGP 4X/8X Video Card - Retail

Patriot Signature 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered System Memory Model PSD2G400KH - Retail

Seagate Barracuda 7200.8 ST3250823AS 250GB 7200 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - OEM X 2

PLEXTOR Black IDE DVD Burner Model PX-740A-BP-BL - OEM

COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Black Aluminum Bezel, SECC Chassis ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail

Antec 430 W ATX12V PSU
ROUND CABLES
 
Motherboard   Intel® Desktop Board D875PBZ
Chipset    Intel® 875P Chipset
The D875PBZ has:  800MHz system bus with dual-channel DDR-400 and native SATA 150.
   

music IS love

When you get confused, listen to the music play!

Mics:         AKG460|CK61|CK1|CK3|CK8|Beyer M 201E|DPA 4060 SK
Recorders:Marantz PMD661 OADE Concert mod; Tascam DR680 MKI x2; Sony PCM-M10

Offline hyperplane

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Re: Info on Building Own Desktop
« Reply #18 on: July 13, 2006, 07:12:43 PM »
I know I'm chiming in late here, but in case you get a little gun shy with building the computer, you can get a nice barebones system from a place like MWave.com (not affiliated with them in any way, other than being a satisfied customer)... then all you slap in are the following parts: video card, RAM, HDD, CD/DVD drive(s), soundcard (if you want something better than the integrated kind which come with many motherboards). MWave's prices are reasonable--yes, you can do better if you're a total cheapskate (like myself) and you don't mind waiting for the really slick deals--but a barebones system is nice for the first "DIY" computer, because they will install the CPU on the motherboard. Installing the CPU isn't super difficult, you just have to be careful and take your time doing it.

Hope this info helps.

 

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