Going to look and listen on tuesday will be my first tube amp, any recs from anyone here, seems like a good deal to me
I am selling my upgraded Jolida 502A 60W/ch integrated amplifier which is in mint condition (see ad pictures). Sale price is $850 OBO + shipping.
The 502A has the much in-demand classic tube amplifier look where the transformers are not covered.
The reason for the sale is that this amp cannot drive my 1-Ohm speaker load.
My Jolida 502A has been significantly upgraded by K & K Audio for a major improvement in sonics.
The modifications are:
• all power supply caps were upgraded to computer grade Panasonic TS-HB.
• AC power rectifier diodes were upgraded to IXYS FRED diodes rated at 1200V, 52A.
• All low current rectifiers were upgraded to 1000V, 1A type.
• All signal path caps were upgraded to Kimber Kaps.
• Transistor Current Sources were installed for the 12AT7 driver tubes (this was a big deal upgrade. Resulted in major sonic improvement).
• The Volume pot was upgraded to a NOBLE logarithmic pot.
• The Balance pot was removed altogether (this was a major upgrade in sonics because an uneccessary pot in the signal path was removed).
• All resistors were upgraded to Holco or Kiwame or PRPor Caddock depending on location.
• Input stage tube upgraded to Mullard IEC 12AX7
• Driver stage tube upgraded to RCA 12AT7
• Output tubes upgraded to KT88EH.
If you want to buy a brand new stock 502B it is going to cost you $995 from Underwoodwally on Audiogon.
If you want to buy a modified 502B from Underwoodwally it will cost you $1595.00
If you want to buy a 502A with Platinum mods by Response Audio it would have cost you $2125.00.
I think that my selling price is very fair.
The tubes that come with this amp are
Mullard IEC 12AX7 (in generic white boxes) used old stock.
RCA 12AT7 (in original RCA boxes) used old stock
Electro-Harmonix KT88 (in original boxes) I have about 50 hrs on these tubes. They are pracitically brand new.
On the rear panel there is some fading of the numbers indicating the 8 & 4 Ohms taps. It is still very easy to make out which is the 8 Ohm tap & which the 4 Ohm tap. Just the numbers 8 & 4 are somewhat faded.
I have the 502A manual + the electrical schematic that Jolida sent me to help out with the mods. I have the original 502A shipping box.