Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Battery Boxes, Preamps, Mixers, ADCs, and Processors => Topic started by: spcyrfc on February 02, 2010, 06:49:46 PM
-
what is the easiest way to run a V3 into a Sony PCM d50? can i go xlr>1/8', or is that foolish?
thanks.
-
that deck has a digital optical input. Your best option IMO is to have the v3 modded to give you an optical dig out. Grace does this mod. That's not the easiest way, but would get you the best results.
-
That's not the easiest way, but would get you the best results.
Says who?
-
> Says who?
Well, the analog line outputs of the V3 are balanced and at full professional levels, while the inputs of the D-50 are unbalanced and at consumer "aux" levels (about 12 dB lower). So if you're operating the V3 at the levels that are best for its signal-to-noise ratio, you're probably in danger of overloading the D-50 while if you reduce the levels on the V3 to prevent that risk of overload, you'll get more preamp noise than you would otherwise get.
Meanwhile the V3 has first-rate A/D converters built in and can feed the digital input of the D-50 directly, bypassing several analog stages entirely, reducing the risk of hum and other noise from interference in the analog cables. It would also allow you to use the excellent peak metering of the V3 to set your actual recording levels on the D-50.
I mean, I don't own a D-50 and haven't actually measured the parameters of the situations that we're talking about, but if I did own one and if I were already set on using the preamp part of a V3 to power and "pre-amplify" my microphones, I would definitely use the V3's digital output rather than the D-50's analog inputs. The front end and the converter section of the V3 are well designed to match one another; the professional-type line outputs of the V3 and the consumer line inputs of the D-50 definitely are not.
--best regards
-
Agreed. Get the V3 mod (or another bit bucket).
I have a stock V3 and wanted to slim to just one pocket recorder and asked a very similar question here: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=131805.0
For me, I want a "just in case" cable. Full time, I would go digi out-> digi in.
--Michael
-
Says who?
You missed the "IMO". It means "In my opinion". An opinion is a subjective statement. :-*
-
so if i want to use the D-50, the best bet would be optical mod. so optical out of the V3, optical into the D-50.
if i used another bit bucket with at spdif in, then just spdif >spdif.
thanks for the input.
-
I'd go with what sounds best. That can't always be calculated.
In multiple blind comparisons on this board, most people prefered the sound of the v3's analog output into the r09 over the digital output into the microtrack.
-
^ Yes. The truth is that some folks don't care all that much for the V3's A/D converter. I'd first try getting a dual-xlr>1/8" stereo cable and see how that sounds. Much cheaper than the opti-mod. If you need I can make it for you since you're local, just pay for the parts.
-
^ Yes. The truth is that some folks don't care all that much for the V3's A/D converter. I'd first try getting a dual-xlr>1/8" stereo cable and see how that sounds. Much cheaper than the opti-mod. If you need I can make it for you since you're local, just pay for the parts.
right on. i think i'll give that a try and maybe go for the opti mod after.
-
There are Coax-Optical converters that would do it.
You asked for the "easiest option". It's easy for me. It's another piece of gear in your bag, adds another cable, adds another battery, and another potential point of failure, but it works for me. You would think they would be flakey as hell, but I've recorded dozens of shows with them and never had a glitch that I remember.
I still have one I use occasionally, to patch an H120 out of the V3 or R4. Or run my R4 into my living room receiver.
There are various "Coax->Optical" converters on the market. Some are just Coax->Opt, some are both ways.
- I have the Hosa ODL-276a and it seems to work fine.
- I had the original 16bit ODL-276 (no "a") and it worked fine.
- I even used the el cheapo "gray box" without problems, but I don't recommend it.
- Another one is the "Maudio C02" (I haven't used that one, but it has a good rep)
- Most of my real experience using converters is 16/44, but occasionally 24/48 or 24/96.
- The ODL-276 (regular and "a") ran off a DVD battery (split cable to my A/D).
- The "gray box" ran off 4AA batteries.
-
There are Coax-Optical converters that would do it.
I forgot about those. I used to have one the M-Audio C02's for dat transfers to my PC sound card. It worked really well.
--Michael
-
I've got an old CO2 kicking around if you want. I don't really use it anymore.