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Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: Hypnocracy on August 29, 2012, 09:40:07 PM
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I've been very lucky that my Fostex and AD20 match up almost perfectly even over a long 2hr set...but the iRiver bitbucket has gotten long in the tooth...looking at more modern solutions
Considering buying a second Fostex FR2LE but not certain the files will sync up without stretching one to match the other....anyone have experience with sync of files from two exact same model recorders?
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I've been very lucky that my Fostex and AD20 match up almost perfectly even over a long 2hr set...but the iRiver bitbucket has gotten long in the tooth...looking at more modern solutions
Considering buying a second Fostex FR2LE but not certain the files will sync up without stretching one to match the other....anyone have experience with sync of files from two exact same model recorders?
Not reliably close...anything but clock sync and you are using sources that are out of tune musically.
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I've been very lucky that my Fostex and AD20 match up almost perfectly even over a long 2hr set...but the iRiver bitbucket has gotten long in the tooth...looking at more modern solutions
Considering buying a second Fostex FR2LE but not certain the files will sync up without stretching one to match the other....anyone have experience with sync of files from two exact same model recorders?
Not reliably close...
+1
they won't be the same. Essentially any drift is drift when you're working on it regardless of how far it happens.
A really fun experiment would be to see how much drift is induced by heat affecting the clock (so put one unit next to a ad1k and the other somewhere else in the bag. :P )
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no way to know for sure
i have had 2 recorders that where way off and others that where good for like an hr before you saw a drift
with that said if you wanted to mess around, i just posted a matt nathanson show (8/24) to the archive, it has 2 sources both with m10 and you could see how those are
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Just wait for a 680 to show up in the YS so I can borrow it >:D
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Just wait for a 680 to show up in the YS so I can borrow it >:D
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Just wait for a 680 to show up in the YS so I can borrow it >:D
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Seriously....never knew I've been so lucky with the FR2LE and AD20 syncing up so well...can I see a shift in 2hr's...if you zoom in far enough yeah...but you can't hear it...so I just go to a rim shot in the middle of the recording and line up on that spliting that 3mil seconds...
It has been nice having two units not tied to one another...or running XLR cable all over the venue too...
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Seriously....never knew I've been so lucky with the FR2LE and AD20 syncing up so well...can I see a shift in 2hr's...if you zoom in far enough yeah...but you can't hear it...so I just go to a rim shot in the middle of the recording and line up on that spliting that 3mil seconds...
It has been nice having two units not tied to one another...or running XLR cable all over the venue too...
So fix the battery issue with the AD20 and resume. Then buy a 680 in the YS so I can borrow it!
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Battery is on order and shipping from Singapore...can only hope that fixes it!
Doubt I'll go for a third iRiver
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I've been very lucky that my Fostex and AD20 match up almost perfectly even over a long 2hr set...but the iRiver bitbucket has gotten long in the tooth...looking at more modern solutions
Considering buying a second Fostex FR2LE but not certain the files will sync up without stretching one to match the other....anyone have experience with sync of files from two exact same model recorders?
I'm not sure exactly how the HD-P2 Time Code input works, but it has one... Maybe you can slave it off the FR2LE??? I've thought about buying a second P2 for 4tracks... But then its cheaper and easier to get a 4track recorder (or more)...
Terry
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I'm not sure exactly how the HD-P2 Time Code input works, but it has one... Maybe you can slave it off the FR2LE???
the fostex has no digi in/out. It's a nice recorder, on it's own, just don't plan on using it as part of a group unless you love stretch work.
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I used to record to twin R-09s all the time. After transfering the files to the computer I found needed to stretch one source in addition to sync'ing the two for recordings of significant length..
However, I would also often playback the recordings direclty from both recorders simultaneously, manually sync'ing them at the start (a tricky learned skill requiring patience!) and they would then playback in perfect sync until the 2GB file split. I surmized that the timing differences between the clocks which were encoded in the recordings were compensated by the very same clock differences on playback. I never swaped cards between machines before playback to see if the timing differences between them doubled instead of canceled out, but that would have been an interesting experiment.
That's not much help to you, but I thought it was pretty interesting.
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I used to record to twin R-09s all the time. After transfering the files to the computer I found needed to stretch one source in addition to sync'ing the two for recordings of significant length..
However, I would also often playback the recordings direclty from both recorders simultaneously, manually sync'ing them at the start (a tricky learned skill requiring patience!) and they would then playback in perfect sync until the 2GB file split. I surmized that the timing differences between the clocks which were encoded in the recordings were compensated by the very same clock differences on playback. I never swaped cards between machines before playback to see if the timing differences between them doubled instead of canceled out, but that would have been an interesting experiment.
That's not much help to you, but I thought it was pretty interesting.
Thats probably true - in the sense that there is a 3rd clock in play - the one on the playback device. Once we import to the computer, that third clock is what brings out the sync differences.
If using the native clock - you might just have two "synced" sources...
Interesting!
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Bean used to do that with 2 NJB3 units for a long time. Labeled each and played one back and did a D>A>D transfer to the other, then transferred both to the computer.
As long as you don't have any major heat based distortions on the crystal, that can work.
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I will take a shot at joining in here – I have only a basic understanding of synching, stretching, clocks and such. A friend and fellow member here has explained some of this to me, but I don’t have any real world experience other than what I will detail below as I feel pertains to the subject at hand.
I am nowhere near as knowledgeable as you all as I have only been recording since last December. The threads here (which I avidly read) have helped me greatly, not only with gear choices (and wish lists) but also in understanding terminology and such. The practical value of this membership is a wonderful resource that I am very grateful to be able to draw from. Most of my efforts have been in smaller clubs/ bars (although I did a couple of local outdoor festivals this summer also.)
I own two DR-2d recorders which I have employed in a variety of configurations. I have often recorded an audience capture with one recorder and a soundboard patch on the other at times when it wasn’t possible to run cables all to one spot.
My most involved setup thus far has been to capture three stereo sources; my audience mics, usually with a ‘dual’ setting of -6dB for a safety track on one recorder, and the other recorder is set up with stage mics (mic in) and board feed (line in.)
I use NCH programs mostly - WavePad for editing, MixPad for mixing, and Switch for converting. The longest tracks I have mixed were @ 2 hours. My experiences in post have been very satisfactory to my ears – after meticulously lining up the two (or three) sources and experimenting with the volume of each and mixing down to a wav.
I guess I have used a lot of words trying to say that with my limited experience and knowledge, I have not found that any discernible difference in how files from these two recorders match up.
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That's good to hear. I also have a second DR2d but have not run both for the same recording.. yet. I quite happily replaced the two R-09s with the first DR2d to get 4 synced channels in a single small recorder. Whenever I've needed more than 4 channels I use a DR680, or two different recorders to eliminate running long cables like you are doing.
However, I've been scheming on some 5 or 6 channel setups which would be best realized by using the two DR2ds rather than the DR680, so I've been thinking about splitting one (or two) of the six mic channels and sending that to both recorders so I have one (or two) identical tracks on both machines for easier syncing. I'm not looking forward to syncing and stretching again, but that would make doing so far less of a hassle. The recorders would be located together so I could start and stop the transports of both simultaneously with a single IR remote (probably not so simultaneously as to not have to align the start of the tracks, but within a few 10s of milliseconds I'd guess).
Now if someone would make a R09/DR2d sized 6 channel input recorder in my budget range I'd forget this nonsense.
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I'm not sure exactly how the HD-P2 Time Code input works, but it has one... Maybe you can slave it off the FR2LE???
the fostex has no digi in/out. It's a nice recorder, on it's own, just don't plan on using it as part of a group unless you love stretch work.
Ahh... Too bad...
Terry
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Hallelujah.....Hallelujah....Hallelujah.....Hallelujah....Halleeeeeeeelujah....
back in the Matrix-Mix game with the old iRiver/AD20-FR2LE....just got it to boot with the new battery charged...gave me a scare at first...after charge would not boot...so I pulled out a old iHP140 that died a couple of years ago thinking the HD may be fried....the 40 gig booted but to the native iRiver software....hooked the 20gig back up and it booted the next time...
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CFmod!! Uses less battery and you don't have hard drive noise. Cheap and easy to do.
Hallelujah.....Hallelujah....Hallelujah.....Hallelujah....Halleeeeeeeelujah....
back in the Matrix-Mix game with the old iRiver/AD20-FR2LE....just got it to boot with the new battery charged...gave me a scare at first...after charge would not boot...so I pulled out a old iHP140 that died a couple of years ago thinking the HD may be fried....the 40 gig booted but to the native iRiver software....hooked the 20gig back up and it booted the next time...