Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Microphones & Setup => Topic started by: Karl on December 31, 2012, 07:53:31 PM
-
I have been searching around trying to find some and I can't. I am sure they are out there! I am looking for an XLR right angle connector. Really short, no flex-cables, just a metal connector. Any thoughts?
Happy New Year all!
-
Something like this (http://store.haveinc.com/p-51310-neutrik-nc3frxb-3pin-xlr-female-right-angle-black-gold.aspx)?
-
No, both sides need to be XLR.
-
M>M, F>F, or M>F?
-
M>F
-
That looks like a good DIY option. Maybe a noob question but how will those two parts actually connect together?
-
If you have a 3D printer, you can print out various adapters and shock mounts:
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=microphone&sa=Search
-
3D printer? I wish!
Jon, it sounds like the housings screw together? How do the wires actually connect? Do I break out a soldering iron?
I'm not afraid of a little epoxy.
-
I will give that a shot thanks!
-
Why not just make a short adapter cable? Far be it from me to disagree with Jon (who is King of Innovative Uses of Neutrik connectors as far as I'm concerned), but even though the NC3MRX and NC3FX will screw together, then plugging another XLR connector into the NC3FX seems like it creates a real chunky and somewhat heavy and rigid unit all attached, presumably, to the back of your microphone. If you make a short adapter cable, you have the same number of soldered connections and the same number of pin to socket interfaces, but you avoid that long-ish lever that is rigidly attached to your mic. It may or may not be a big deal, depending on the mic and the clip or shockmount.
With a cable there's no diddling around with epoxy and no risk of breaking the wires between the two Neutrik connectors when you screw the two together. Although the Neutrik connectors will screw together, the nylon inserts with the pins/sockets are fixed with respect to the metal shells, so as you screw the two pieces of metal shell together, you'll want to 'pre-counterrotate' the wires connecting the two halves so they don't break due to twisting.
-
That is a good idea as well. I think that Jon's idea might work better for my purposes.
-
pbansen, it is less about the bulk attached to my microphone as it is the bulk attached to the recorder. I already have a nice long microphone cable. Right now, I connect phantom power adaptors to my recorder. The fit is all awkward, but a right angle would keep the phantom power adaptors from poking straight out.
-
Hi Karl -
I get it - the 90 degree units are at the recorder end; I had them visualized at the mic end.
Pete
-
Yep! They are supposed to show up tomorrow, then I get to have the fun of connecting them permanently together!
-
SO, in regards to Nuetrik XLRs, I have found that the factor right angles have certain issues:
older style with screws around the head can either interfere with each other making the stress the connector or just won't fit at the angle you want, due to the size if the head and the spacing between (almost all) decks.
Newer style( slimmer with no external screw to hold halfs together. have less choices for clocking and end up either covering the release button or won't allow you to clock where you want due to the limited choices.
Making your own(or buying from cable makers here) does allow a lower profile and acces to releases and any clocking position you want. BUT you cannot change it once it's done. A good alternative are Ted's stubbies the straight out wiring. That's what I have run into of course YMMV
-
Making your own(or buying from cable makers here) does allow a lower profile and acces to releases and any clocking position you want. BUT you cannot change it once it's done.
and shielding (since most who do stubbies remove a lot of the RFI shielding to reduce the profile). Not an issue the majority of the time (I can't recall any incidents in the 2 or 3 years I've used stubbies), but something to keep in mind if you're recording in those sorts of environments.
-
Newer style( slimmer with no external screw to hold halfs together. have less choices for clocking and end up either covering the release button or won't allow you to clock where you want due to the limited choices.
I file in new "notches" on mine to allow for more clock positions.