Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Microphones & Setup => Topic started by: beatkilla on August 11, 2013, 12:17:19 PM
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I remember reading about this here but can't find the thread or pictures.
Pictures of before and after is what im interested in.
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I remember reading about this here but can't find the thread or pictures.
Pictures of before and after is what im interested in.
I have a way to chop the bodies down to a much smaller size.
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would be interested in some pics too
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I cant find any I know I did atleast 10 pairs. What I do is take the plastic body off the mic. And then rebuild the mic housing with epoxy its about 65% smaller when I am done with it.
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How did you remove the plastic body? Can you unscrew it somehow?
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How did you remove the plastic body? Can you unscrew it somehow?
You have to cut it off. And its not easy and you have to be able to replace the cable. And that is also not easy.
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I cant find any I know I did atleast 10 pairs. What I do is take the plastic body off the mic. And then rebuild the mic housing with epoxy its about 65% smaller when I am done with it.
How did you shield them from RF interference before you epoxied them?
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I cant find any I know I did atleast 10 pairs. What I do is take the plastic body off the mic. And then rebuild the mic housing with epoxy its about 65% smaller when I am done with it.
How did you shield them from RF interference before you epoxied them?
Well plastic is not a shield for RF interference ether :) The small metal ring that is left is part of the shield I use copper tape to make up the rest. Its pretty simple. The exit hole for the cable is the only that that cant be shielded. But again its a small exit hole. Its not perfect but like I said keep in mind the body of this mic is PLASTIC and not shielded in any way except for the braided cable that connects it.
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Well plastic is not a shield for RF interference ether :) The small metal ring that is left is part of the shield I use copper tape to make up the rest. Its pretty simple. The exit hole for the cable is the only that that cant be shielded. But again its a small exit hole. Its not perfect but like I said keep in mind the body of this mic is PLASTIC and not shielded in any way except for the braided cable that connects it.
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Interesting. I figured AT would have it shielded. I have one I think I might open up.
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Well plastic is not a shield for RF interference ether :) The small metal ring that is left is part of the shield I use copper tape to make up the rest. Its pretty simple. The exit hole for the cable is the only that that cant be shielded. But again its a small exit hole. Its not perfect but like I said keep in mind the body of this mic is PLASTIC and not shielded in any way except for the braided cable that connects it.
Interesting. I figured AT would have it shielded. I have one I think I might open up.
[/quote]You should what I use to do this is electronics cutters the little nippers for cutting off leads on pcb boards. just be careful of the metal ring at the end that's the part the capsule screws into. what I do is take a razor blade and cut around the fet ( the silicone) then take a soldering iron and heat up the lock nut the metal ring with two small holes in it. Once it starts to move is use ring pliers to undo the ring. then you will be able to remove the fet pcb. it's a bit of work there are. few people on the board I have done this mod for maybe they can upload a picture so you can see what it looks like. There is no shield inside the body. The only way they could have done it is with conductive paint. that stuff is super toxic and super expensive and not 100% effective by any means.