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Gear / Technical Help => Ask The Tapers => Topic started by: learning_towalk on January 13, 2005, 08:48:00 PM
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I've done all of my measurements, made my marks,drawn out how I want everything, and I've began making my inital cuts so I can bend the wire easier....however it's taking FOREVER to cut the smallest notches....and then once I do have a cut, it's a pain to get it to bend....any suggestions? this is a pain, It's gonna be sweet once it's done but man it's a pain
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ok so the cutting thing still sucks time worse than a vacuum....but I used my head and grabbed some plyers to help with the bending and that made it alot easier ;D
I'm a quick one...lol
I'll have pics up when I'm done
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yes,needle nose and thicker guage pliers would be great
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yes,needle nose and thicker guage pliers would be great
a hammer never hurts either. or is that just me ;D
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I've done all of my measurements, made my marks,drawn out how I want everything, and I've began making my inital cuts so I can bend the wire easier....however it's taking FOREVER to cut the smallest notches....and then once I do have a cut, it's a pain to get it to bend....any suggestions? this is a pain, It's gonna be sweet once it's done but man it's a pain
Do you need to notch the wire?
I used some bar clamps and a piece of 1x4 to sandwich the rack against a work bench with a sharp edge. Then I just bent the rack down by hand, applying pressure as close to the bench as possible to still get enough leverage but not bend the entire frame. To get a really tight corner, finish the corner by using a mallet to form the bend to your bench edge. I didn't go too sharp, maybe a 1/4 inch radius.
If you don't have clamps, use a cutting board and have someone stand on it.
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dremel to notch, pliers to bend.
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well I got it finished....needless to say I need to hammer it out to even it out (i did it all by hand so I accidently put more pressure in some spots than others)....I think I'm gonna do it again with a dremel and a mallet (and a friend to help)....but I think this will give you the idea of what I'm wanting to do with it
here's how I want it to end up being set up...
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UwAmAxAaOlY3BHKAwP28D1ErqwaFhTP9iRXvGfSwYr5I286AYTsuxDxbFpmjnswoP57jxjyQciLncnfwO!mUv!7c7ZRYFxkLb11pgxoV8tSP*CTgfhu0x95K3R5WS7XM/bag%20layout.JPG?dc=4675505775038199299)
the green being the batteries and I will run all of the opticals and other cables of the sort underneath
here's what I started with...
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0XQAPA8kcsFZq1ao0tVJ8hAl6sf!p*oBbAs8nJOBiOrERpQGftTmHVUZm3HGXPo1nB1dU3KehEQXH8P3QCP6ghbe7ELTZKL2dSqGpWHrWRMQzep4j2XATcGd9kYaYuoxccI8pqt!lErE/apadownhome1505%200030.jpg?dc=4675505773669313686)
and here's how it ended up in my bag...
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0XQAmA80czFdq1ao0tVJ8hAl6sf!p*oBbLIJRodKYcC9SUHR6BTtMeCSkZ9Gay5bWxAVHZ672CqDI!Z8rpRm9jy5iQ1rX7bWDL7WZFeViA2qNVQzHaos3f1IanBj3JXuq4gYkLW9yhoM/apadownhome1505%200070.jpg?dc=4675505773703514351)
like I said, this was my first attempt....and I did it with a dull saw and a wrench (not plyers....a wrench...lol) pretty ghetto...
but it was good enough to let me know how it would fit in my bag...also there is about a half inch between the bottom of the frame and the bottom of the bag so I can get RCA's etc under there
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+t. great job.
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Nice job. I used a table leg to bend the legs on my shelf didnt notch anything. I like your design should work well. +T
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very nice.
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where are you storing your mics? are they in a pelican case or anything? just wondering..as I have been looking at that bag..
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+t looks really nice and affordable. i think i'll be making a trip to walmart and target tomorrow to try my hand at this with my ua-5 ;D
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I will be storing my mics in the right hand zipper compartment...I figured that I would get a $7 graphite sunglass case (with pop up lid) from wal mart to put the mics in, and I can get a peice of bubble wrap to wrap them in to put em in there...
my basic bag layout will be...
left pocket- extra batteries,shocks
righ pocket-mics,tbar,duct tape
front pocket-flashlight,adapters
rear pocket-clamp,cable ties
internal-as shown
also...if you've been looking at this bag, know that if you get the "mainstays long stacking shelf" and notch it at 1 7/8" then measure off 5 1/2" past that (do this on each side) it will fit exactly into the bag and will be like an internal frame....
enjoy...I think I'm gonna try to redo it again today (ps just checked my bank account and my rig money is in there...SHOPPIN DAY!!!)
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I started out with a hack saw and then quickly learned that a big-ass set of bolt cutters was the way to go.
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Cool.
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I bought the Wallyworld shelving. But, I bought 2 of them. Hacked both down to size of the UA5 and used long plastic tie-downs to hold it in place. Purpose was for the UA5 to be vertical in my bag. I'll upload pictures later today. Nice work LTW!!!! T+!
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Here's few more ............
How about resizing those suckers? As it is, I can only view about 1/3 of each picture on my screen.
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I bought two of these from Walmart. Chopped down the long sides (13.75) with a hack saw. Used long Rat-shack tie-downs to secure it to the cage. I also used furniture pads to protect the JB3 from rubbing against the cage.
As you can see, I have plenty of room in the back. I intend on using a right angle connector for the battery eventually. Sits nicely in the bag and at vertical position. Total cost: $17.00
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vise grips are great for cutting wire, just got some new ones for xmas w/ flexy grips ;D.
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If you don't have vise grips, there is no effort using the hack saw. Its all about having a sharp blade. The outside took a few seconds, but the thinner, inside wire, cut in about 4 or 5 rips. The whole thing was together in a half hour.
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Heres the rack I made from the same shelving.
I took the legs off one unit. Then bent the legs of the other and cut them in half at the bottom so that they could be slid through the grid of the second shelf. and taped back togther. I then cut a square out of the grid on the top so I could fit the Sonosax up there. the shelves were then wire tied together at the corners. I then used velcro tape to hold the UA5 on the bottom and the battery on to the top of the UA5. The Sax is velcroed down with two wire straps on top of the UA5 and the battery. The SVU-1 is also velcroed to the bottom of the unit. Then this all fits in to a mountainsmith Carin lumbar pack on top of the km100 bodies in a pelican case.
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Nice!!!
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niceness guys, life w/ a rack and all the wires hooked up is MUCH easier :)
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ok the newbie is coming out for a minute..... ;).........The UA-5mod (which I am planning on purchasing as my new preamp) is the preamp in the last rig pics. The SVU-1 is only there to provide meters for the UA-5. The Sonosax is for...........Its a preamp also right? Why 2 preamps? And then the slim box on top of the UA-5 is the battery pack for the UA-5 right? Questions questions questions........... ???
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The UA-5mod (which I am planning on purchasing as my new preamp) is the preamp in the last rig pics
Yes, but it's a preamp and ADC, not just a preamp.
The SVU-1 is only there to provide meters for the UA-5.
Yes.
The Sonosax is for...........Its a preamp also right? Why 2 preamps?
Appears that instead of using the UA5 as both preamp and ADC, he's using the Sonosax as preamp and the UA5 as purely ADC, i.e. bypassing the UA5 preamp.
And then the slim box on top of the UA-5 is the battery pack for the UA-5 right?
Yes.
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Is the UA-5 not a good stand-alone preamp? I know I've seen significantlly(sp) cheaper A/D converters.
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Is the UA-5 not a good stand-alone preamp? I know I've seen significantlly(sp) cheaper A/D converters.
The UA-5 is a good stand alone preamp.
I already have the SX-M2, I like what it does for the neumanns.
My UA-5 is a regular Digi-mod. I basically have it for ADC and so I can easily use a JB3. The UA-5's ADC appears to be better than the one in the PCM-M1 which is the deck I normally run off the sax.
Ive heard tapes with a regular D-mod UA-5, I think Joel is one taper that runs the regular UA-5, and it sounds just fine.
Nothing wrong with the stock UA-5 but it can also be improved dramatically with different mods depending on what the user wants. In my case I wanted a ADC for now with some possibilities later. I bought an Oade one with this in mind and maybe one day Ill send it in and have more mods done to it, but for now Im just experimenting with it as a ADC.
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Is the UA-5 not a good stand-alone preamp? I know I've seen significantlly(sp) cheaper A/D converters.
The UA-5 is a good stand alone preamp.
I already have the SX-M2, I like what it does for the neumanns.
My UA-5 is a regular Digi-mod. I basically have it for ADC and so I can easily use a JB3. The UA-5's ADC appears to be better than the one in the PCM-M1 which is the deck I normally run off the sax.
Ive heard tapes with a regular D-mod UA-5, I think Joel is one taper that runs the regular UA-5, and it sounds just fine.
Nothing wrong with the stock UA-5 but it can also be improved dramatically with different mods depending on what the user wants. In my case I wanted a ADC for now with some possibilities later. I bought an Oade one with this in mind and maybe one day Ill send it in and have more mods done to it, but for now Im just experimenting with it as a ADC.
gotcha. so if im running mxl 993's (woo hoo....wait no....) -> w-mod UA-5 -> marantz pmd-670, it should be alright? i know i need to up the mic scenerio a little, but the after-mic transitions should be good?
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It should be fine with the setup you have listed. You have mics>pre/adc>recorder, thats the basics of what you need to record.
In the end its all preference. Some people like neumann mics with the V3, some with the Sax , some with the UA-5. In the end it only really matters to the users tastes. Personally I think the UA-5 is one of the best deals in the taping market these days. Ive heard a lot of recordings witht he varios mods and I have to say it has the best bang for the buck, but once again thats just my opinion and Im sure you can find many others that disagree.
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learning to walk, red x's