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Gear / Technical Help => Playback Forum => Topic started by: Simp-Dawg on October 21, 2005, 04:01:23 PM
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wondering if this is necessary...i just bought skalinders old b&w dm610i's and adcom gfa-555 amp...read some stuff but am still confused as to whether i'll get much out of it or not.
thanks
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I do not hear any significant difference bi-wiring my Missions.
YMMV
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then which terminals should i hook the wire to? hi or low freq?
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the terminals should be bridged together and it should make no difference which you attach to.
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I've read that if the terminals are bridged using the usual stamped and plated brass stock, you'll get better performance running your wires to the HF side.
Personally, I did hear a noticable, if marginal, improvement bi-wiring the VR4JRs. I think it depends a lot on the set-up and upstream gear. If there is a difference, it may not be worth the added expense of the addition wires, but I had some wires laying around so it didn't cost me anything to try. These are the only bi-wire capable speakers I've ever owned, so my response is based on very limited experience.
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bi-AMP! :)
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bi-AMP! :)
QFT
on the Missions, the brass plates are 1/8 thick and 2 inches wide and triangular.
The posts are 0.5 inch apart.
It is possible to banana into either tweeter or mid-woofer or the plate itself (has a socket).
There is no difference in biwiring with substantial and adequate speaker wire, nor with single wiring regardless of socket used.
Bi-amping is a whole 'nother game.
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Michael...
are you running biwires, or shotguns to your 4jrs?
VSA told me the *must* be shotgun'd. , or use two seperate pairs.
when I went from a single wire / jumper combo on m vr4s to running two pairs of cables, the difference was immediate, and huge.
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I'm running two pairs/shotgunned.
The improvemnt was there, it was maybe %10-%15 better but not like 100% better. Remember, my room sucks and the GF isn't giving any ground in the battle of the accoustic treatments.
I missed a really good deal on a second Premier 11a. The guy said he would wait one day for my decision, then I got busy and two days later it was sold. But I'm definitely going to bi-amp the 4jrs this fall or winter and I want a matched amp so I can run a passivde split.
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Michael...
are you running biwires, or shotguns to your 4jrs?
VSA told me the *must* be shotgun'd. , or use two seperate pairs.
when I went from a single wire / jumper combo on m vr4s to running two pairs of cables, the difference was immediate, and huge.
This is one of the few times I'ver ever heard someone say that they heard a big difference.
Did you also try bi-wire AND jumpers at the speakers (that can be done without hurting amp or speaks, no ?) as a comparison ?
What type of speaker wires and how long ?
Are we talking about the same thing ?
You are running a parallel set of wire from the single speaker output for each channel at your amp and putting one on the HF module and the other on the LF module of the VR-4JRs, as opposed to running one cable and using a "daisy chain" jumper between the HF and LF modules.
Or are you using the Sub Output on the Sony to the LF modules ? (2.2 Stereo)
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Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought the choices were:
1. 1 amp, posts on speakers bridged
or
2. 2 amps 1 high freq 1 low freq
or
3. 2 amps (mono) 1 right 1 left
I ran my Polk LS-90's #2 for a while because my roommate had nice adcom amp but crappy speakers, so we combined our systems.
JAson
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you can also:
1 amp, seperate runs (shotgun) to each post on the speaker (if they are bi-amp-able).
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im actually debating biamping my b&w fronts. I'm tossing around what else I'd amp them with to help out on the low end. the highs just sing on them so im not sure.
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you can also:
1 amp, seperate runs (shotgun) to each post on the speaker (if they are bi-amp-able).
Yes, the idea of using the jumpers and the shotgun pair is to see if the wire's inductance and reduced resistance
made the difference.
The jumpers would change one, not the other, and it would help me to understand why you hear the difference.
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>>im actually debating biamping my b&w fronts. I'm tossing around what else I'd amp them with to help out on the low end. the highs just sing on them so im not sure.<<
biamping = goooood :)
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OK....if I want to Bi-amp and am running the signal from the pre out on my reciever to the amps.
Can I just split the signal coming from the L/R pre outs on the reciever and send 1 signal to one amp,
and the other signal to the 2nd amp.
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A possibly cheaper route would be to replace the garbage, oxidized easily brass jumpers that come with speakers to something of higher quality. Bolder Nitro's w bybee's, albeit $$$, made a signifigant differnce to my ears. There are however much cheaper options that would still be an upgrade. You can always use a short run of the SAME speaker cable you use currently to bridge as well.
Try it. Bi-Amping is nice, as you are generally able to use a much cheaper, possibly pro sound amp on the bass and a much higher quality amp on the mid/tweeter and will have a noticeable differnce in sound as well.
Good luck!
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OK....if I want to Bi-amp and am running the signal from the pre out on my reciever to the amps.
Can I just split the signal coming from the L/R pre outs on the reciever and send 1 signal to one amp,
and the other signal to the 2nd amp.
what kind of amps do you have?
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I have a Bel Canto EVO 2 (120 x 2) and a Rotel RB1080(200 x2).
I just run the Bel Canto right now bi-wired with Nordost Vahalla's into my Egglestonworks Andra II's.
I was planning on running the Rotel to the lows & the Bel Canto to the highs.
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I have a Bel Canto EVO 2 (120 x 2) and a Rotel RB1080(200 x2).
I just run the Bel Canto right now bi-wired with Nordost Vahalla's into my Egglestonworks Andra II's.
I was planning on running the Rotel to the lows & the Bel Canto to the highs.
I don't think you want to use a passive splitter if bi-amping with dissimilar amplifiers.