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Gear / Technical Help => Playback Forum => Topic started by: lds490 on May 18, 2006, 11:38:24 AM
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The final piece of my system arrived yesterday--a custom-built subwoofer cabinet built to my specs. It is based on a design by Danny at G-R Research and uses their 12 inch driver/PR. It is clad with birds eye maple real wood veneer, except for the front panel, which is black laquer. The signal from the SW out on my receiver will feed an old Carver M-400 power amp bridged into mono mode. Eventually, I want to own a system with an active crossover and an amp designed for this purpose, but this is what I've got for now and I'm very happy with It.
I have not had a moment to assemble the sub or listen to it, but it sure looks pretty. I've been working non-stop for the past week getting ready to argue a big case in federal appeals court. I can't wait to hear some big bass (Phil Lesh, Mike Gordon, Schools) 24/96 recording on this thing. Just got home from court and I'm heading to Home Depot now.
Pictures coming soon.
Peace,
LS
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sweet!
I have to ask about the isolation feet under your gear. What are those?
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do you really want the sub that close to you TV and other gear ?
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Lil Kim-
They look like Mapleshade iso blocks
http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/audioproducts/isoblocks.php
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do you really want the sub that close to you TV and other gear ?
I'm not sure about placement yet. What is the concern with the sub being close to the TV. I'm limited right now by the length of my speaker cables, but I'd like to move the rack away from the speakers and TV stand. Any advice on sub placement? I heard that it does not make a difference since we don't perceive bass as directional.
Most of the gear is on stock feet, some of which I will replace in the future (did I say I was done upgrading?). The DAC60 is on a maple platform which is sitting on Isoblocks from Mapleshade ($24/4). The DVD player is also on Isoblocks with the stock feet removed.
I built the rack myself. I ordered the shelves unfinished with holes pre-drilled from Timbernation. I finished them with a white stain and tung oil.
So far, I am amazed by the sub, especially with 24 bit live recordings. Also, multi-channel formatsand film soundtracks are great. I don't think I ever heard real low bass from a playback system before.
Other things I plan to do (in no particular order):
Roll tubes on the DAC60/additional mods
Upgrade cables
Dedicated PC to serve audio/video
Plazma or LCD monitor
Tweeks (brass feet, Bybee filters, etc.)
Upgrade front center speaker/add rear center
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"Other things I plan to do (in no particular order):
Roll tubes on the DAC60/additional mods"
fwiw, I hear that the tubes to use in the DAC60 are Amprex. the best you can afford. eBay is a great source for them. the NOS pairs of 6922's go for about $50-80.
A GREAT pair goes for about $140
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do you really want the sub that close to you TV and other gear ?
I'm not sure about placement yet. What is the concern with the sub being close to the TV. I'm limited right now by the length of my speaker cables, but I'd like to move the rack away from the speakers and TV stand. Any advice on sub placement? I heard that it does not make a difference since we don't perceive bass as directional.
Most of the gear is on stock feet, some of which I will replace in the future (did I say I was done upgrading?). The DAC60 is on a maple platform which is sitting on Isoblocks from Mapleshade ($24/4). The DVD player is also on Isoblocks with the stock feet removed.
I built the rack myself. I ordered the shelves unfinished with holes pre-drilled from Timbernation. I finished them with a white stain and tung oil.
So far, I am amazed by the sub, especially with 24 bit live recordings. Also, multi-channel formatsand film soundtracks are great. I don't think I ever heard real low bass from a playback system before.
Other things I plan to do (in no particular order):
Roll tubes on the DAC60/additional mods
Upgrade cables
Dedicated PC to serve audio/video
Plazma or LCD monitor
Tweeks (brass feet, Bybee filters, etc.)
Upgrade front center speaker/add rear center
While omni directional, placement is key in getting flat response from say 20 Hz to 120 Hz. Do a feq sweep and check the levels at each freq for different locations. My guess is the curve will be differet for each location. You want it in the spot that creats minimal peaks and nulls.
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done upgrading.... :lol:
Done upgrading . . . for this week.
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Low amplitude (acoustic) bass is very directional.
Yeah, I've heard this quite a bit from other sources. There seem to be a lot of people who like to run dual subs.
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Look like a nice rack of CD's on the wal behind you (judging from the reflection in the TV)!
+T on finally acheiving the perfect sound that will last you a lifetime. ;)
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sweet!
I have to ask about the isolation feet under your gear. What are those?
You can get these exact same blocks from wholesalers online. They are made specifically for isolating vibration from the floor for drying machines. Try searching dryer isolation of something to that effect. About 1.50 a pop.
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sweet!
I have to ask about the isolation feet under your gear. What are those?
You can get these exact same blocks from wholesalers online. They are made specifically for isolating vibration from the floor for drying machines. Try searching dryer isolation of something to that effect. About 1.50 a pop.
Great advice!
http://www.soundproofing.org/cgi-bin/cart.pl?
I think each Mapleshade Isoblock uses 2 of the 2" pads with cork center ($6/4) glued together. So, the total cost is $12/4, which is half of what Mapleshade charges for them.
Note: Mapleshade recommends these for placement under platforms or for stacking components, but not for replacing stock feet. They have several lines of solid brass replacement feet, which are supposed to be used between the component and platform/rack. Also, Mapleshade is shameless in puffing their gear--everything is the best and out-performs competitors that cost 10X the price, etc.--and makes claims that are contrary to conventional thinking. So, caveat emptor.