9.6v NIMH RC Batteries + 5.5mm x 2.1mm Connectors + VMS02IB Questions

[F.O.Bean]

OK you power folks, I am sick and tired of the unreliable Tamiya connectors on all [4] of my 9.6v NIMH RC Batteries, and the Tamiya connectors on my Tenergy TB6B Charger, and Schoeps VMS02IB Power Cable!!! I already have a bunch of brand new 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors [both male and female], and I want to re-do ALL [4] of my 9.6v NIMH RC Batts, solder a new 5.5mm x 2.1mm connector on my Tenergy TB6B Smart Charger since it already has two open leads ready to be soldered on, on the dongle that came with it, and last but not least, my Schoeps DC Connector for my VMS02IB!

Here's a pic of a female 5.5mm x 2.1mm connector!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4SR1SP1152&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-AT+-+Spark+Plug+%26+Ignition+Tools-_-9SIA4SR1SP1152&gclid=CjwKEAjwsMu5BRD7t57R1P2HwBgSJABrtj-RnmgOEUFdCYABg5r2yXmuClIkX-wsYB9IstvawlPULxoCh7_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

And a male 5.5mm x 2.1mm connector!
http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_329272_3.jpg

I was going to put the FEMALE 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors on the 9.6v NIMH Batts, and the MALE connectors on my VMS02IB Power Cable and my Tenergy TB6B Charger! That way, if I ever get a few of those 6800mah Lithium-Ion batteries that are pretty cheap, I'll already have the proper connector on my charger so that I can use the same 5.5mm x 2.1mm leads as my 9.6v NIMH Batts use on my TB6B Charger!

Only one question! I just cant figure this out right now!!! Maybe because Ive been up for 20+ hours. Damn brain farts lol! But anyway, what do I make POSITIVE and what do I make NEGATIVE on the FEMALE 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors that are going onto my 9.6v NIMH Batteries The TIP or the RING

I realize that on the Schoeps VMS units the TIP=NEGATIVE! So how do I wire the FEMALE connectors that are going on the 9.6v NIMH Batts? I don't know why that confuses the shit outta me right now haha? I realize that on the Schoeps DC Connector, the TIP=NEGATIVE on the MALE 5.5mm x 2.1mm connector [with the black lead going to the TIP], which goes to my VMS02IB! I'm just confused about how to wire the FEMALE battery ends I guess? So I guess I just wire the FEMALE end on the battery the same as my MALE 5.5x2.1mm connector going to my VMS02IB, and do the TIP=NEGATIVE on the FEMALE Battery end of my 9.6v NIMH Batts

Ted, Robb, Anyone, I would really appreciate some help on this! I'm exhausted right now, so I'm going to wait until I have a fresh brain tomorrow and some fresh coffee, and then I'm going to get started on this project! I'll probably have it done completely in a few days! I just DO NOT want to wire something wrong and FUCK UP my perfectly good VMS02IB

Thanks in advance,
Bean

[F.O.Bean]

Would all of my 5.5x2.1mm connectors be TIP=POSITIVE [all (4) of my NIMH RC Batts + my Tenergy TB6B Charger], except for the 5.5x2.1mm connector that will go to my Schoeps Power Cable for my VMS02IB, where the 5.5x2.1mm connector would be TIP=NEGATIVE

[nolamule]

I don't know the answer to you question but do hae one of my own...

Will you be using the mail tip in the OP to connect to the VSM or as a quick connect from the VSM adapter and the battery?

[F.O.Bean]

I don't know the answer to you question but do hae one of my own...

Will you be using the mail tip in the OP to connect to the VSM or as a quick connect from the VSM adapter and the battery?

Battery>MALE 5.5x2.1mm END>>Schoeps DC Connector>Directly into my VMS!

[F.O.Bean]

OK, after thinking this through[I did go to school for Electronics MANY years ago lol], I think I can wire the battery/charger ends however I want to?!?! I can wire the FEMALE 5.5x2.1mm ends onto the batteries, and make the RING=POSITIVE and TIP=NEGATIVE, exactly like I would on my Schoeps VMS cable, since the VMS requires that TIP=NEGATIVE! Right That way it doesn't matter which is which, as long as they are all wired the same! So my charger end will be TIP=NEGATIVE, and RING=POSITIVE, and so will my batteries and VMS cables!

That should do it, correct?

[hi and lo]

OK, after thinking this through[I did go to school for Electronics MANY years ago lol], I think I can wire the battery/charger ends however I want to?!?! I can wire the FEMALE 5.5x2.1mm ends onto the batteries, and make the RING=POSITIVE and TIP=NEGATIVE, exactly like I would on my Schoeps VMS cable, since the VMS requires that TIP=NEGATIVE! Right That way it doesn't matter which is which, as long as they are all wired the same! So my charger end will be TIP=NEGATIVE, and RING=POSITIVE, and so will my batteries and VMS cables!

That should do it, correct?

Correct. You can wire the connectors in either orientation (tip-positive or tip-negative), so long as you are always consistent. With power cables, use a healthy amount of heat shrink tubing to cover exposed contacts and always use a multi-meter to check your finished work before plugging it into your gear, ensuring that the pinout is correct and that an unexpected short hasn't developed.

I'm not a fan of tip-negative gear, so if I were creating a battery solution I would wire everything tip-positive. For any piece of gear that requires tip-negative power, I would then make a special cable with a permanently affixed label so that it is never used with any other piece of gear. "Tip-swapping" (i.e. with adaptaplugs) is OK in a pinch, but is really asking for trouble in the long run. Better to have a dedicated cable.

Wiring best practices aside, I would really try to choose a replacement connector that locks. Tamiya connectors may not be perfect, but are far better for field recording than a non-locking barrel connector and when they wear out, re-crimping is easy.

[F.O.Bean]

OK, after thinking this through[I did go to school for Electronics MANY years ago lol], I think I can wire the battery/charger ends however I want to?!?! I can wire the FEMALE 5.5x2.1mm ends onto the batteries, and make the RING=POSITIVE and TIP=NEGATIVE, exactly like I would on my Schoeps VMS cable, since the VMS requires that TIP=NEGATIVE! Right That way it doesn't matter which is which, as long as they are all wired the same! So my charger end will be TIP=NEGATIVE, and RING=POSITIVE, and so will my batteries and VMS cables!

That should do it, correct?

Correct. You can wire the connectors in either orientation (tip-positive or tip-negative), so long as you are always consistent. With power cables, use a healthy amount of heat shrink tubing to cover exposed contacts and always use a multi-meter to check your finished work before plugging it into your gear, ensuring that the pinout is correct and that an unexpected short hasn't developed.

I'm not a fan of tip-negative gear, so if I were creating a battery solution I would wire everything tip-positive. For any piece of gear that requires tip-negative power, I would then make a special cable with a permanently affixed label so that it is never used with any other piece of gear. "Tip-swapping" (i.e. with adaptaplugs) is OK in a pinch, but is really asking for trouble in the long run. Better to have a dedicated cable.

Wiring best practices aside, I would really try to choose a replacement connector that locks. Tamiya connectors may not be perfect, but are far better for field recording than a non-locking barrel connector and when they wear out, re-crimping is easy.

Thanks for the info Hi/Lo That's about what I was thinking, so now I have the confidence to do it! And yes, ask ANYONE that has ever made me cables! I ALWAYS use heat shrink, probably sometimes too much lol And yes, I always verify my work with a multi-meter as well

I totally see what you mean about leaving the TIP=POSITIVE, but since my 9.6v NIMH batteries are ONLY for my VMS, I don't need to worry about swapping gear and I don't mind all of the TIP's=NEGATIVE But I DEF see where you're coming from, and the more I think about it, wiring all of my batteries TIP=POSITIVE is probably a good idea! Then I can just make the VMS power cable with the TIP=NEGATIVE, and leave everything else TIP=POSITIVE! That way I could use the batteries for other things than JUST the VMS I guess I'll decide which to do soon!

I agree, I really wish I had the $$ to order mini XLRs for my VMS batteries/cables/stuff, but I can easily throw a piece of tape over the 5.5x2.1mm connectors so they NEVER come undone while in use, and I don't have to worry about the Tamiya connector getting FUBAR'd at a festie and almost leaving me without the VMS at all, which happened the last festie I did Plus, ALL of my cables are SUPER NEAT in my bags and accessing ANY cables like that, once I'm running my gear, is damn near impossible because of my OCD neatness lol So I don't EVER see the VMS power cable coming undone because of the 5.5x2.1mm connectors! But I do agree that locking connectors are better! I'm actually saving up for the nicer "Series 712" Binder connectors for my KCY cables, and I already have the 5.5x2.1mm connectors, so no extra $$ for the mini XLRs right now! Maybe I'll just wait until I can afford some Mini XLRs? Who knows? lol. I just wish the Yamiya connectors weren't just sitting "loose" in their barrels! It allows them to twist and do things you DON'T want them to do haha

Thanks for the info Hi & Lo, I really appreciate it!
Bean

[tim in jersey]

I bought my first rig from the Oade Bros. including a 6v SLA and power cable to juice my SBM-1 and D8. They used Switchcraft TA-3(M/F) connectors instead of full-sized 4-pin XLRs.

Saved a ton of room in the gear bag and were pretty bullet-proof...

[F.O.Bean]

I bought my first rig from the Oade Bros. including a 6v SLA and power cable to juice my SBM-1 and D8. They used Switchcraft TA-3(M/F) connectors instead of full-sized 4-pin XLRs.

Saved a ton of room in the gear bag and were pretty bullet-proof...

Haha nice Tim I bought my 1st rig from Sonic Sense and had those BP-50 6v SLA Ecocharge's, except they had full size XLR's to power my DMIC20 and D8! Maybe I'll just wait and save up for the mini XLR's! Ive had links saved to them for awhile now The Rean ones seem pretty bulletproof and are a lot cheaper than I thought!
http://www.mouser.com/new/neutrik/REAN-Tiny-XLR/

I like these Female 4-pin water resistant Mini XLRs ones! Reminds me of my old BumbleBees with the water proof full size XLRs[Neutriks though]!
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/RT4FC-B-W/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV8Afkbs01HDbWJzbf9PYklo%3d
Or these lockable Female 4-pin Mini XLRs
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/RT4FCT-B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV1L8lKprks13n5fG3PobTaY%3d

These are the only stocked 4-pin Male Mini XLRs at mouser right now.
Switchcraft
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/TA4MX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiVwoI1Tv3lJuq531eyQGmLCg%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/TA4MLX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV8A0R3F5127q%252bx%252be4CEzhAU%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/TA4MLWX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV8Egu2Y3OLIWcG8H%252blyftN7zkcNWS%2fQQJQ%3d%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/TA4MLBX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV8A0R3F5127qDyXofO4QxGg%3d
Amphenol Audio[Cheapest]
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Audio/AG4M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV9q1DZp1Q0Pl7qlgVffrioE%3d

That should be FN bullet proof LOL Plus those Rean ones are MUCH CHEAPER than the Switchcraft ones[$4/each for the REANs and $10-15/each for the Switchcraft]! I'll probably grab those Amphenol Audio Male 4pin Mini XLRs from the above link, and the water resistant Rean Female connectors from above, since both of those connectors are solderable! That way I can keep costs way down and actually afford to get these done ASAP, if I go with the Rean/Amphenol Audio connectors! Thanks for the advice and help/info Tim and Hi/Lo

Here's the Switchcraft Mini XLR's just for reference! EDIT: I just noticed that ALL of the Switchcraft Mini XLR connectors[except the chassis style] have to be CRIMPED, instead of soldered! At least for their "Sealed Tiny QG Series" Mini XLRs! I MUCH prefer soldered connectors. As always, YMMV!
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=173401043

[hi and lo]

Good stuff, Bean. You're definitely on the right track. Should be a fun project!

Mini-XLR connectors are a reasonable choice and from what's available at Mouser, the Amphenol connectors would be the best choice. They are pretty-much identical to genuine Switchcraft connectors and much cheaper. I would avoid the Rean connectors for a multitude of reasons, none of which are important enough to go into detail about here.

Not to slow you down, but I might also recommend a some alternate connector choices simply because the Mini-XLR format is so heavily used. Choosing an alternate connector entirely avoids the possibility of a mix-up and might actually be easier to work with. I hadn't looked into the particular connectors that were out there when I made my previous post, but an hour or so of research turned up some possible alternatives:


-------

Switchcraft EN2/EN3 Series - MOUSER LINK

You''ll know these as the "N-box" connectors and they would make pretty good power connectors. They come in a two-pin format which is nice and are a lot easier to work with vs. Mini-XLR, simply because they're bigger. The solder cups on these are HUGE compared to Mini-XLR and the cable boot accepts a better range of wire gauges. Best of all, these are IP68 rated when mated (totally dust tight and protected against prolonged water immersion). In comparison, Mini-XLRs are not suitable for wet conditions at all. The moment they get wet, you are going to have a power short and that is very, very bad. 

These are about $3.50 - $4.50 each, so pretty affordable. For cable-to-cable connections, you would need one EN3"C" and one EN3"L" connector and both come in Male/Female, so it's designer's choice as to which is which.

Conxall / Switchcraft Micro-Con-X Series - MOUSER LINK

I haven't personally used these, but they look pretty good on paper. IP67 rated (dust tight and water resistant), which is miles above a Mini-XLR connector and it looks like these are maybe a little bit smaller than the EN2 and EN3 series, but otherwise about the same. Haven't looked closely enough at the part numbers, but these are definitely available with the right cable-to-cable mating options.

-------

I'm sure there are other good options, but those two seem very solid to me vs. mini-xlr and I really like that they are more or less weather proof. The one thing I didn't find was a plain-ol' locking barrel solution, similar to adaptaplugs or the switchcraft 760K, but those aren't necessarily going to be any better than Mini-XLR anyways.

[F.O.Bean]

Good stuff, Bean. You're definitely on the right track. Should be a fun project!

Mini-XLR connectors are a reasonable choice and from what's available at Mouser, the Amphenol connectors would be the best choice. They are pretty-much identical to genuine Switchcraft connectors and much cheaper. I would avoid the Rean connectors for a multitude of reasons, none of which are important enough to go into detail about here.

Not to slow you down, but I might also recommend a some alternate connector choices simply because the Mini-XLR format is so heavily used. Choosing an alternate connector entirely avoids the possibility of a mix-up and might actually be easier to work with. I hadn't looked into the particular connectors that were out there when I made my previous post, but an hour or so of research turned up some possible alternatives:


-------

Switchcraft EN2/EN3 Series - MOUSER LINK

You''ll know these as the "N-box" connectors and they would make pretty good power connectors. They come in a two-pin format which is nice and are a lot easier to work with vs. Mini-XLR, simply because they're bigger. The solder cups on these are HUGE compared to Mini-XLR and the cable boot accepts a better range of wire gauges. Best of all, these are IP68 rated when mated (totally dust tight and protected against prolonged water immersion). In comparison, Mini-XLRs are not suitable for wet conditions at all. The moment they get wet, you are going to have a power short and that is very, very bad. 

These are about $3.50 - $4.50 each, so pretty affordable. For cable-to-cable connections, you would need one EN3"C" and one EN3"L" connector and both come in Male/Female, so it's designer's choice as to which is which.

Conxall / Switchcraft Micro-Con-X Series - MOUSER LINK

I haven't personally used these, but they look pretty good on paper. IP67 rated (dust tight and water resistant), which is miles above a Mini-XLR connector and it looks like these are maybe a little bit smaller than the EN2 and EN3 series, but otherwise about the same. Haven't looked closely enough at the part numbers, but these are definitely available with the right cable-to-cable mating options.

-------

I'm sure there are other good options, but those two seem very solid to me vs. mini-xlr and I really like that they are more or less weather proof. The one thing I didn't find was a plain-ol' locking barrel solution, similar to adaptaplugs or the switchcraft 760K, but those aren't necessarily going to be any better than Mini-XLR anyways.

+T Hi/Lo I really like those "NBox Style" EN3's! I really like the look of these, and they are relatively cheap as well

EN3C2MX Male
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EN3C2MX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvG94qpybaIZRfMwLRYSD8dkv50htGz5qQ%3d
EN3C2FX Female
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EN3C2FX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvG94qpybaIZTiI0Pmph%252bDlZFOsS4BlfY8%3d

That's all I need, right Hi/Lo There's sooo many styles, that its pretty confusing lol I think those links above are JUST the connectors, and NOT the connector + cable on the end, right I even looked everything up like specs and the drawing diagrams for each connector on the Switchcraft website, and I'm almost 100% sure that's what I need

[hi and lo]

You've got two "C" parts, so they won't lock together. I made that mistake myself a few years ago.

Here are the exact two Manufacturer Part Numbers you need. Mouser's website is fraught with mistakes, including having the wrong image for the EN3L2FX (but correct PDF diagram), so I also included the Digi-key links which do have the correct picture. It should make sense how the "L" and "C" parts lock together from the better pictures.

EN3L2FX - EN3 2-position cable-to-cable connector; #20 gold plated solder-cup style female sockets; bulk packed; ; RoHS compliant
- http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=EN3L2FX (Digikey)
- http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EN3L2FX (Mouser)

EN3C2MX - EN3 2-position cable end connector; #20 gold plated solder-cup style male pins; bulk packed; ; RoHS compliant
- http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=EN3C2MX (Digikey)
- http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EN3C2MX (Mouser)

[F.O.Bean]

You've got two "C" parts, so they won't lock together. I made that mistake myself a few years ago.

Here are the exact two Manufacturer Part Numbers you need. Mouser's website is fraught with mistakes, including having the wrong image for the EN3L2FX (but correct PDF diagram), so I also included the Digi-key links which do have the correct picture. It should make sense how the "L" and "C" parts lock together from the better pictures.

EN3L2FX - EN3 2-position cable-to-cable connector; #20 gold plated solder-cup style female sockets; bulk packed; ; RoHS compliant
- http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=EN3L2FX (Digikey)
- http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EN3L2FX (Mouser)

EN3C2MX - EN3 2-position cable end connector; #20 gold plated solder-cup style male pins; bulk packed; ; RoHS compliant
- http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=EN3C2MX (Digikey)
- http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EN3C2MX (Mouser)

Thanks a BUNCH Hi/Lo The Mouser website is confusing as FUCK!!! I wasn't sure if I needed the "cable-to-cable" or "cable end" connectors And after looking over the Mouser site, I was more confused than when I started lol. But after your last post, it seems I need exactly what you just linked me, so I will need the "cable-to-cale" AND the "cable end" sections, correct? I thought I needed JUST the connectors, and NOT the cable section as labeled in the "cable-to-cable" connectors? I'll most likely be ordering from DigiKey for those exact reasons, and so I'm 100% sure I ordered the right products! Mouser needs a CRUCIAL edit on their website! Sooooo many typos and wrong product ##'s and links

Thanks Hi/Lo! My Bday is coming up, so I am going to try to get these, AND my "Series 712" binder plugs for my bday

Series 712 Binder plugs[WAY better quality than those POS Series 711 plastic binder plugs]
Male 712
https://www.binder-usa.com/products/partsdetail/89225
Female 712
https://www.binder-usa.com/products/partsdetail/89229
Rt-Angle Male 712 for my VMS Input
https://www.binder-usa.com/products/partsdetail/89227

My mics/preamps/decks/cables/accessories/etc are ALL where I want them to be, now I just need to upgrade my cable connectors and stuff like that[Series 712 for KCY cables] and EN3 connectors for my power cables for my VMS! After that stuff is upgraded, I'm getting another PFA, and then I am good on gear for awhile! I have NOTHING NEW to crave gear-wise, and I will be content after the cables upgrade[Series 712 Binder's and EN3 connectors]!!! Thanks again Hi/Lo!

[F.O.Bean]

Well, I finally got rid of EVERY Tamiya connection on my VMS batteries & DC power cable! I already had the 5.5x2.1mm connectors, so I just "upgraded" to them for now! I'd ideally like the Mini XLR's or NBox connectors for my VMS/DC connectors, but I had procrastinated for over a year on this project, so I'm just HAPPY about being completely done with the Tamiya connectors lol

I was at SummerDance/2015 and my Tamiya connector on my DC Power cable[for my VMS] decided to take a shit on me and basically fell apart! I never did trust a connector that has the ability to MOVE depending on its position, which is what the Male/Female connectors do on a Tamiya plug The 5.5x2.1mm connectors don't "lock" like a Tamiya/Mini XLR/EIN3/etc, but a piece of tape on the connectors will do the trick just the same! Besides, my cables are buried deep into my bag and are super neat, and the possibility of them coming undone/disconnected is like zero to none haha

Oh and FWIW, I wired EVERYTHING Tip=Negative just to avoid confusion on my own behalf lol! Since the 9.6v NIMH RC packs are JUST for my VMS, I figured that would be the best way for me to do it! I realize I could have JUST wired my DC Power Cable Tip=Negative and wired everything else[Batteries + Charger] Tip=Positive, but like I said, it was just easiest for me to do EVERYTHING Tip=Negative to avoid confusion on my part!