I stumbled on the Yamaha YAS-209
Subdued, pretty accurate, and super easy to configure. (I helped the sales guy plug it in... One Toslink + one HDMI-ARC.)
The Klipsch stuff that I listened to was capable of much higher volumes, but more "wowzah" in coloration.
I definitely am considering either the Yamaha or the Klipsch Bar40.
I keep thinking I could bracket out a stereo pair, but ...clutter...