Topic: Do these mogami snakes look OK?

[SMsound]

I just got these new Mogami 2930  2ch snakes (custom).

The fanout section towards the ends are supposed to have added black heatshrink tubing on top.

Do these look like they have heatshrink (the thin cables that have 1 and 2 written on them)?  I have never taken apart a 2930 cable and don't know if this is what they already look like inside, or if these have the added heatshrink on top.


https://ibb.co/Cn9VN3K

Edit: the pic isn't embedding for some reason, so here's the link and also the pic as an attachment

[hipporu]

What exactly is bothering you?
I am using a Mogami 2931 from proaudiola, it is marked directly on the inner conductors 1 2 3 4, no heatshrink.
As pictured here:
https://www.proaudiola.com/product-p/4-m2931-xlrf-xlrm-2-s.htm

[Gutbucket]

There is a section of heat-shrink covering the termination of the outer jacket - "over the cut" as it were.  There is not additional heat shrink completely covering the inner cables that extend out to the XLRs.

It's presence would make them stiffer and potentially can make them fold and wrinkle when coiled, at least with typical heat shrink.  There are more flexible versions of heat shrink, but typically when looking for additional protection one would use woven Techflex or its equivalent, with the ends secured by short sections of heat-shrink that also serve as strain-relief.

If you really need that or not is one question.  What was promised is another.

FWIW, my snakes don't use additional protection past the fan-out and I have no problem with them.

[relefunt]

I’m afraid those are no good and you’ll have to give them to me.

[SMsound]

I see---so if I were to take some new Mogami 2930 and remove the outer jacket, I would see the same two inner jacketed conductors marked "1" and "2" that I see on my cables pictured in the 1st post?

My order was for snakes made like the ones pictured below, but all black instead of black/red. The ones pictured here (which are Mogami 2930 like mine) have red/black heatshrink over the inner leads I think---can anyone confirm?

The cable builder mentioned on the phone that getting the extra-flexible heatshrink to lay down nicely w/no bubbles was the hardest part of the build since I needed a longer 18" fanback at the ends.


What's the consensus about the durability of the inner leads without heatshrink or techflex? These were ordered to be my "air travel/remote" cables...

[DavidPuddy]

No problems at all with the mogami mini lav cable here. Very tough stuff though it does feel a bit delicate.

[voltronic]

I have a bunch of this as bulk cable stock, and the picture in the first post is what they look like. Personally, I like the fanouts to be more protected as the jacket of the individual cables is quite thin, so I add 1/8" Techflex to mine and heat shrink the ends.

[SMsound]

I have a bunch of this as bulk cable stock, and the picture in the first post is what they look like. Personally, I like the fanouts to be more protected as the jacket of the individual cables is quite thin, so I add 1/8" Techflex to mine and heat shrink the ends.

Do you have a picture of how you heatshrink the ends of the techflex?  I'm thinking about either taking my cables apart and doing this, or using the techflex wrap (so I don't have to disassemble the cables), but I've never used techflex before.

[voltronic]

I have a bunch of this as bulk cable stock, and the picture in the first post is what they look like. Personally, I like the fanouts to be more protected as the jacket of the individual cables is quite thin, so I add 1/8" Techflex to mine and heat shrink the ends.

Do you have a picture of how you heatshrink the ends of the techflex?  I'm thinking about either taking my cables apart and doing this, or using the techflex wrap (so I don't have to disassemble the cables), but I've never used techflex before.

See the second picture here. Adding techflex to the individual channel cables is kind of tricky on this cable because it is so highly flexible. There is some silicone adhesive under the two layers of shrink to help keep the flex in place at the fanout location. No shrink at the connectors - I used my soldering iron to curl that end of the flex to help lock it in place through the drilled hole in the XLR shell.

https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=196240.0

[SMsound]

See the second picture here. Adding techflex to the individual channel cables is kind of tricky on this cable because it is so highly flexible. There is some silicone adhesive under the two layers of shrink to help keep the flex in place at the fanout location. No shrink at the connectors - I used my soldering iron to curl that end of the flex to help lock it in place through the drilled hole in the XLR shell.

For some reason, no pics are showing up on your post (at least for me). Thanks for the explanation, though.

[voltronic]

See the second picture here. Adding techflex to the individual channel cables is kind of tricky on this cable because it is so highly flexible. There is some silicone adhesive under the two layers of shrink to help keep the flex in place at the fanout location. No shrink at the connectors - I used my soldering iron to curl that end of the flex to help lock it in place through the drilled hole in the XLR shell.

For some reason, no pics are showing up on your post (at least for me). Thanks for the explanation, though.

I had forgotten to add the link. Fixed.

[Gutbucket]

I had forgotten to add the link. Fixed.

A real PC keyboard!
Nice!

[voltronic]

I had forgotten to add the link. Fixed.

A real PC keyboard!
Nice!

Oh yes, my Model M. It absolutely blows away all the newer mechanical key switches (and yes, I've tried them). It is like when you get to play a piano with a perfectly regulated action; you can just fly.

Mine was constructed in 1990 I believe, and with a yearly cleaning it still functions perfectly. Literally the only thing that doesn't work like new is that it has a broken Caps Lock LED. I got it on my last day at the PC / network shop I worked at in the late 90s. My boss said I was free to go into the back room boneyard and take something with me. There were a stack of these, and I picked the cleanest one.

This company now owns the original IBM patent, and is still churning these out in a Kentucky factory if you want a new one:
https://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/NEW_M

You could go even more old-school and get a reproduction Model F, but the price is ridiculous, especially considering they are made overseas. I also strongly prefer the later Model M layout on the numpad.
https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/