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Author Topic: M1 to D8 problem  (Read 4393 times)

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Offline Scooter

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M1 to D8 problem
« on: June 22, 2005, 01:17:15 PM »
I was trying to patch from KCmoeJoe's M1 to My D8 at Wakarusa, and it just wasn't locking.  I forget, do you need an active 7 pin to go from a M1 to a D8, or is it the other way round?? 
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Offline Tim

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2005, 01:21:38 PM »
I think they both might need active cables

even with the "correct" cabling there is no guarantee you'll be able to pass signal from an m1 to a d8......
I’ve had a few weird experiences and a few close brushes with total weirdness of one sort or another, but nothing that’s really freaked me out or made me feel too awful about it. - Jerry Garcia

Offline Scooter

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2005, 01:23:09 PM »
Ahh.  Well that might have been the prob then.  I had a passive, and he had an active cable...
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Offline Scooter

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2005, 01:33:23 PM »
"The Oade Brothers and one or two other shops have started with the Sony RK-DA10 (black casing) and RK-DA10P (gray casing) active input cables and added a passive output. Since the outputs are passive, the voltage the cable will provide depends on the model of recorder you're using. If you use a -D3 it'll be 5.2 Volts. If it's a -D7 or -D8 it'll be 4 Volts, and if its a -D100 or -M1 it'll be 3.5 Volts.

Again: There are no cables that are active (voltage translating) for output."




So...  I according to this, I needed an active input 7pin for this to work(which his supposedly was), since the M1 was sending a  lower than expected voltage.  But then it goes on to say this...




"Remember that if you have a TCD-D100 or PCM-M1, and you need an active input cable, you must buy a cable based on the RK-DA10P with the gray housing; the older RK-DA10 with the black casing may or may not work."



So I guess it could have been the older active 7pin input cable???  Huh.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2005, 01:35:26 PM by Scooter »
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Offline JasonR

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2005, 02:02:31 PM »
Ahh.  Well that might have been the prob then.  I had a passive, and he had an active cable...

Yup - if you guys swapped cables, you'd have been all set.  The outputs are all passive, but an active input cable is needed in some cases to bring the level 'up' to the standard of the receiving deck.  For the D8, it needs a higher level than an M1 puts out, and that's a situation where you need an active cable on the D8.

The other solution would be to change positions in the chain (D8 > M1) but that's no so simple when you're trying to bump the guy who's running the rig.  ;)

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Offline cgrooves

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2005, 03:47:05 PM »
"The other solution would be to change positions in the chain (D8 > M1) but that's no so simple when you're trying to bump the guy who's running the rig."

I've always been told that the D8's should come first in the patch chain, and now I understand why.  Good point about bumping the guy running the rig.  I wouldn't be willing to be bumped because I use the internal A/D in my M1, and the D8's A/D isn't as good.
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Offline Scooter

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2005, 03:48:27 PM »
thats what we did.  My passive cable was on his M1 output, his active cable was on my input, still didn't work.  There lies the rub ;D.  And ya, I didn't wanna ask him to switch the order of the decks, although he prolly would've totally cool w/ that, just didn't wanna be a PITA...
« Last Edit: June 22, 2005, 03:51:00 PM by Scooter »
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Offline Tim

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2005, 04:04:34 PM »
even if you swapped cables I hesitate at the suggestion that you would have been "all set"

IME you just never know when dealing with M1 to D8... you're better off splitting the signal or switching the order of the decks....
I’ve had a few weird experiences and a few close brushes with total weirdness of one sort or another, but nothing that’s really freaked me out or made me feel too awful about it. - Jerry Garcia

Offline brianp

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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2005, 04:28:57 PM »
I've always been told that the D8's should come first in the patch chain, and now I understand why.  Good point about bumping the guy running the rig.  I wouldn't be willing to be bumped because I use the internal A/D in my M1, and the D8's A/D isn't as good.


I think in this situation you can pass the signal from the M1 to the D8 by setting the Oade active cable coming out of the M1 to analog and use the Oade active cable on the D8. I could be wrong though. Ive never had any luck with the M1> D8 thing. This used to be a big issue in the Phish tapers section. The D8's always went in front of the M1's and there were always a slew of D8's and just a handful of M1's. nowadays I rarely see anyone patching, much less running a dat deck.
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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2005, 04:56:52 PM »
i used to hate patching w/ the m1 for that reason. you'd have to get in the back of the patch chain even if you were the first there and someone in front of you would have a problem that would affect your tape.
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Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #10 on: July 25, 2005, 11:04:02 AM »
The Oade's put out a document with their active 7 pins that I got when I bought one that strongly suggests you to always put the M-1 at the end of the chain OR split the digi chain and run all D-8's and D-7's on one line and all M-1's &  M-100's on the other line.




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