I was planning on picking another up. I was using the advice from this thread as far as my basic ideas, so I got 9.6 V batteries. That extra .6 V wasn't a problem for the UA5 mentioned in that thread, think it'll be for the Calf or the Hosa? I have everything ready to with hacked wall warts, but I want to be 100% sure before I plug it the stuff in. You've been a tremendous help.
EDIT: I might as well just build one of those little 9V jobbers for the Hosa and keep the 1000 mAh battery for the Calf, right? If a 9V battery is 550 mAh, then I should get 7.3333 hours of runtime off just one of those little things. That would be enough, definitely.
The reference you're using is the "Parallel" wiring style w/ the RC batteries. My example is basically the same thing, but w/ normal 9v batteries.
From what I understand, as far as running 9.6v w/ the UA5, the UA5 can tolerate the extra .6v. Honesly not sure about the Calf or the Hosa boxes, it may be 9v only. I don't think either manual says anything specific about the voltage tolerance like my DMIC-20 manual does (says in print... "must not exceed 8.6v and a minimum of 5.6v is required for normal operation") I suppose it's possible you could wire-in a voltage converter to ensure you're getting 9v... that's up to you to decide.
In my experiences, I've only used 9v running in to the Calf and the Hosa box (9v battery or 12v -> voltage conv. -> 9v. It's a bit risky in my oppinion, to just plug it it and see what happens w/ the RC batteries. You may blow a capacitor as a result of the excess voltage. If you reverse the polarity by accident, you will for-sure fry something. Maybe you could call Midiman and ask about the voltage tolerance?
For my ODL-312 I use a normal 9v battery/harness w/ yellow ratshack tip "C" ring (-), tip (+) since the current draw is only 60 Mah, I never bothered to rig it up in "Parellel" since one 9v battery is fine for a few shows. Eventually, I'll probably move to NIMH rechargable 9v's, just havn't gotten around to it yet.
-K