Does anyone make RC battery > UA-5 battery cable?

[Swampy]

So I had my UA-5 lose Phantom last night while taping the Hold Steady. I've narrowed the problem down to be the cable inbetween the RC battery and UA-5. I tested the fuse which seems to be good, and the solders are all good, so I don't know what the problem is. Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone here or elsewhere with a little more skill than me  makes/ could make a little bit of a better version this cable. I'd be willing to pay for parts and labor. Please let me know if you can help. I have shows early next week, so I'd be willing to pay for a rush job! Thanks!

[china_rider]

You can make them yourself really easy....  Just cut the UA-5 cable on the end (the end that does not plug into your ua5) and chop off the wires that lead to the RC battery.  Just reverse positive and negative and you are good to go.  If you are not good at soldering goto home depot to buy the screw on wire connectors.

That being said someone probably makes them, but you can do it your self for a few dollars.  I've had one for the UA-5  (not soldered, with the screws) for the last few years that I use for the R-4 now.  Works like a charm.

[Brian Skalinder]

If you're using an RS Adaptaplug, I've found the ID/OD tolerances broad enough that some of them work okay, and some lose contact occasionally.  As a result, I always use the stock connectors because they fit so snugly.  As china_rider suggests, I hack the stock cable, swap polarity, and use screw-on connectors to secure everything in place.  Very secure, and easily field repairable if needed.

[Swampy]

When you say swap the polarity, you are saying connect the (-) on the battery end to (+) on the UA-5 end of the cable and vice-versa? What purpose does that serve? And what do you mean by the "stock" cable, are you talking about the wal-wart for the UA-5? No special cable came with my UA-5 and RC battery pack, just a homebrew. Please excuse my electrical ignorance...

[Brian Skalinder]

When you say swap the polarity, you are saying connect the (-) on the battery end to (+) on the UA-5 end of the cable and vice-versa?

Yup, that's basically it.

What purpose does that serve?

It will provide the UA5 with the proper polarity and allow it to work.  Wrong polarity = no worky.  The UA5 has (-) tip, (+) ring.  Most devices have (+) tip, (-) ring.  You just want to make sure the battery's (-) wire is secured to the UA5 connector's "tip" wire, and the battery's (+) wire is secured to the UA5 connector's "ring" wire.  I believe the UA5 is protected against reversed polarity, so even if you get it backwards it won't damage it.  BUT...I'm not 100% positive on that, so do it at your own risk!  Easy way to test polarity, just use a voltmeter:  connect the (+) lead to the UA5 connector's ring, and the (-) lead to the UA5 connector's tip, and you should have a positive voltage roughly equal to your battery's published voltage spec.

And what do you mean by the "stock" cable, are you talking about the wal-wart for the UA-5?

Yeah, the wallwart.  Sorry I wasn't clear.  I never ran my UA5 off AC, so I never needed the wallwart.  For my R-4, I have 2 wallwarts - one I hacked to use for my remote power, and another stock I left alone for AC power.

[MPB]

I can make these cables for less than the Radio Shack version. You just need the right tips, cable & soldering iron.

Remember to REVERSE the polarity : tip to ring on the wires & you are in business

If you don't want to go the Radio Shack adaptaplug way I can make them for you for costs at any length.