Topic: Fostex FR2-le "IN DA FIELD" (fr2le thread, pt 2)

[ArchivalAudio]

From the manual

To operate the FR-2LE with batteries, insert four commercially available AA alkaline, Ni-
Cd or Ni-MH batteries to the supplied battery case and set it to the unit, or set a Tamiya
battery to the unit.

am i correct in thinking i have 2 tamiya batts one in nicd and one nimh?  In which case i would not have to change any settings - correct?

im asking cause my nicd batt only lasts for a few hours whereas the nimh seems to last forever.

I *think* that if you set it to  the 7.2 V  (Tamiya) setting it does not matter what type you have...
but I coold be wrong
as there is only one 7.2v setting

[topdog]

It appears that my FR2LE auto-senses the when a 7.2v battery is in the unit and sets the battery type to "RC7.2". But...I do not believe it auto-senses correctly when you have a non-Tamiya type battery installed. The manual does indicate that you must set the battery type (when the RC7.2 is not installed) to the correct type (e.g. NiMH, NiCd, Alkali).

As for the type of RC7.2 battery type being used (NiMH or NiCd), it shouldn't matter as long as your battery type is set to "RC7.2" on the unit.

[topdog]

I believe the mic trim knobs work as attenuators of the signal from the mic, and the main recording level control knob controls overall recording level. Anyone know if the OL indicator is linked to the mic level? It doesn't seem so from the manual (that's what the mic peak light is for), so there must be an undetermined level where you can be bouncing the levels off of 0, and clipping the waveform, and still not set off the OL indicator. Am I the only one seeing this?

There is a peak LED for the mic-pre amp on the side of the unit. Lowest LED in the side level LED array. Is this what you are looking for? I didn't want to state the obvious, but no one seem to discuss the MIC PEAK LED. I set my mic trimmers so that the MIC peak LED never lights and keep my top level meters below 0dB and I haven't experienced any clipping problems (even when looking at the waveforms in Samplitude on my PC).

[willndmb]

I believe the mic trim knobs work as attenuators of the signal from the mic, and the main recording level control knob controls overall recording level. Anyone know if the OL indicator is linked to the mic level? It doesn't seem so from the manual (that's what the mic peak light is for), so there must be an undetermined level where you can be bouncing the levels off of 0, and clipping the waveform, and still not set off the OL indicator. Am I the only one seeing this?

There is a peak LED for the mic-pre amp on the side of the unit. Lowest LED in the side level LED array. Is this what you are looking for? I didn't want to state the obvious, but no one seem to discuss the MIC PEAK LED. I set my mic trimmers so that the MIC peak LED never lights and keep my top level meters below 0dB and I haven't experienced any clipping problems (even when looking at the waveforms in Samplitude on my PC).

this is what i do too
you could have the mic OL or the gain OL light come on at different times, but don't want either to come on ever imo
i set the trims around 1-2 oclock for 480s

[spcyrfc]

this is the charger i use.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062121

that battery pack sucks and im gonna replace it.  any opinions on the charger?  should i replace it as well?

oh yeah, i realized why my nicd isnt nearly as nice as the nimh.  no brainer, kinda feel like an idiot 2000mah vs. 3300mah.

Does anyone use the 4200mah tamiya batts?

[George2]

I'm using this.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/rc7-2v4500.html

And this

http://www.batteryjunction.com/unsmch.html

[topdog]

this is what i do too
you could have the mic OL or the gain OL light come on at different times, but don't want either to come on ever imo
i set the trims around 1-2 oclock for 480s

Agreed. MIC Peak LED or recording level OL LED should never light. I try to keep a good margin and leave lots of "headroom".

[topdog]

this is the charger i use.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062121

that battery pack sucks and im gonna replace it.  any opinions on the charger?  should i replace it as well?

oh yeah, i realized why my nicd isnt nearly as nice as the nimh.  no brainer, kinda feel like an idiot 2000mah vs. 3300mah.

Does anyone use the 4200mah tamiya batts?

I use a 3800 NiMH battery pack and that is more than enough to run the deck with phantom mic power for many many hours. I've tape 4 hours straight and the battery indicator still indicates full. I bought this battery/charger combo and have been very happy with it. The charger is small and fast.

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1604

[kozakz]

I run my fr2le with a 8gb transcend x133 card in the last week and I got very minor digital clicks a few times in my recordings. I used different mics and it is present on all of them. Previously I used a 6gb hitachi microdrive and I did not experience this issue. Any idea what can cause this?

[sygdwm]

i dont know what your deal is but when tring different mics did you use the sam cables?

[kozakz]

I used the following setups

AT4051a - Klotz kabel - Fr2le
AT853rx - fr2le
Sound Professionals AT853 mini xlr plug - Nady phantom adapter - Fr2le

[sygdwm]

is the unit stock? are you pushing the pre's hard?

[JiB97]

same thing has happened to me using the same cards, but doesn't happen all the time, only randomly.

edit:  here's a screen shot of the most recent "digi click"

[sygdwm]

i should also mention that i have (3) kingston 4GB 45x cards that work w/o issue.

[kozakz]

It is a stock unit. Pre was not really pushed, small knobs were between 12:00-02:00 hours, big one was around 2 clock. Levels were peaking between 6-3 db.

It is a very very quit click only, it is hard to hear, but once I started to hear it is bugging me.

I will start to use again the microdrive to see if that works better. I made only 2 recording with microdrive and they look spotless.