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Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: aaronji on October 13, 2014, 04:05:38 PM
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Hard to believe it has been five years since the first post...Continued from: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160902.360 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160902.360)
Starts of previous threads:
Part 7: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160902.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160902.0)
Part 6: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=154969.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=154969.0)
Part 5: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=145955.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=145955.0)
Part 4: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=139638.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=139638.0)
Part 3: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=136665.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=136665.0)
Part 2: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130924.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130924.0)
Part 1: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=124639.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=124639.0)
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I called today and inquired about a new Sony PCM-M10 and was advised by my dealer that Sony has announced that the M-10 will be discontinued.
For those dealers that have no stock, prices may creep a little higher, as Sony is not discounting the unit.
For those dealers that have large stock supplies, you may see prices dip below $200.
I found a unit at Guitar Center, for in stock items only, for $170 free shipping. B&H has it for $199 free shipping. Sweetwater has it for $250.
No replacement model has been announced, but I assume an announcement is forthcoming.
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well, CES isnt until January
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Interesting! I wonder what they have on tap for new models? As I noted above, it has been five years since the M10 came out, so the time is ripe for an update (that doesn't cost 800 bucks like the D100)...
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To be honest, what can be done to improve the M10 and keep it in roughly the same price bracket?
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Maybe not quite the same price bracket, but I'd like to see Sony make a 4 or 6 channel competitor to the Zoom H6 or the new Tascam recorder - something with 4 XLR inputs like those others but with Sony's superior build quality and battery life. I was disappointed when the D100 came out - that they upgraded the built-in mics and the DAC but added no useful functionality.
Maybe I just just shut up and keep saving my pennies for a Sound Devices 633...
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For what it is, a small stealthy 2 ch recorder with a great display and superior battery life, I cannot think of a single improvement I would recommend.
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Even smaller w/9V PIP and WiFi to hook up to your phone (for control) would be the shit...but I'm not holding out on that.
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To be honest, what can be done to improve the M10 and keep it in roughly the same price bracket?
I'm saying nothing. Absolutely nothing.
Well, ok, mics that are not omnis with almost no separation. Having said that, any other mic scheme would result almost certainly in a noticably larger device, which in itself might be a pity.
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Adjustable PiP on the line input.
Maybe a 4-track option.
Call it the M11.
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Remember, we are the low volume buyers, most users of the M10 are not concert archivists (us), they are reporters and that type... we just get lucky with the higher settings and menu options.
But I will take it :)
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Anyone remember the M1/D100? We are so spoiled with this tiny recorder. I have D50 and still grab the M10 every time.
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I went D7 > D100 > M1 > (some edirols) > M10
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Even smaller w/9V PIP and WiFi to hook up to your phone (for control) would be the shit...but I'm not holding out on that.
Since we're talking wishlist, I'd like to see SPDIF/digi-in on a reasonably-priced pocket deck more than anything else.
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Lockable gain wheel, anyone?
That said, I may well pick up a second M10 before they disappear. Didn't take long with mine for me to become a convert. (And I'm a concert archivist *and* a reporter, and use it for both.)
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Actually, I'll agree with Mr. Fried Chicken and say a digital in/our would really nice to synch decks. However, there is not enough real estate on the sides of the deck to make that happen with growing the unit.
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I would enjoy bigger font on the LCD screen for us guys that cant see the fine print.
Yes the digital in /out option would be great too.
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Only improvement I really want is a lockable gain knob. Other than that, the m10 is perfect IMO!!!
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I would love an updated pcm-m10 with no speaker, no mics, and better ui.
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I love the built in speaker.Atlease I can quick check if it recorded without headphones.I see people complained about the sound is to low.I think my M10 plays louder then the R-09HR.I was not happy they drop the speaker on the R-05.The mics probably only good on both recorders for note taking.They are useless for loud live work.
I also like to make a note about the M10 battery compartment design. Its alot better then the R-09HR.The R-09HR clip tend to bend in and loose connection and hard to read which way to install the batteries.The Sony spring design is alot better and easy to install batteries.
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I also like to make a note about the M10 battery compartment design. Its alot better then the R-09HR.The R-09HR clip tend to bend in and loose connection and hard to read which way to install the batteries.The Sony spring design is alot better and easy to install batteries.
The hinges of the battery door are flimsy and need a more sturdy design.
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I also like to make a note about the M10 battery compartment design. Its alot better then the R-09HR.The R-09HR clip tend to bend in and loose connection and hard to read which way to install the batteries.The Sony spring design is alot better and easy to install batteries.
The hinges of the battery door are flimsy and need a more sturdy design.
Yes I forgot to add that.The design probably looked good on the drafting table but in reality it stinks.
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aes in
Balanced analog in
No mics
No preamp
DSD
Basically a d100 without mics, preamps, and all balanced inputs
Add wordclock io
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hello !
I have some problems with my new M10 - are there any germans outside who can help.
I prefer to talk about those things via my motherlanguage ???
I have some very important shows in the near future and I really need some help !!!
please contact me who ever read these lines,
please !!!
---
pillowman
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What is the nature of the problem?
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It looks like a friend's M10 has dodgy line in jack, after some years faithful service. I think she'll just get a new one but if anyone has a link to the breakdown instructions for an M10 I'd be grateful.
Many thanks
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Did she try cleaning it first? It's rare that a jack out right fails unless a lot of stress has been placed on it or there's a manufacturing defect. I use Caig's cleaner with their 1/8" brush, but dipping a plug in some 90% or higher alcohol and inserting it repeatedly in the jack will usually do the trick.
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Thanks dyneq. Yes, tried all that. All cables and battery box have been replaced. Same problem with at least 3 sets of mics. It was bought when they first came out and has cost about 2 cents a show, so it's not due her anything! But retaining it after repair as a backup is a good option. I do recall someone stripped one down and posted diagrams.
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Did the entire Umphrey's NYE run without changing batteries on the M10. 5 nights, 11 sets, all over an hour plus a 4 hour ride home listening back. Only dropped one bar
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Did the entire Umphrey's NYE run without changing batteries on the M10. 5 nights, 11 sets, all over an hour plus a 4 hour ride home listening back. Only dropped one bar
Lithiums? I can still get around 18-20 hours on my m10s with 5 year old Energizer 2300mah AAs ;D 8) But I have a HQ charger and did a proper "break-in" when I first got them! Well worth the $60 I spent on my charger :)
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Did the entire Umphrey's NYE run without changing batteries on the M10. 5 nights, 11 sets, all over an hour plus a 4 hour ride home listening back. Only dropped one bar
Lithiums? I can still get around 18-20 hours on my m10s with 5 year old Energizer 2300mah AAs ;D 8) But I have a HQ charger and did a proper "break-in" when I first got them! Well worth the $60 I spent on my charger :)
Rayovac AA batteries
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Have my M10 now from the Thomann Deal for 174 Euros ...
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I called today and inquired about a new Sony PCM-M10 and was advised by my dealer that Sony has announced that the M-10 will be discontinued.
For those dealers that have no stock, prices may creep a little higher, as Sony is not discounting the unit.
For those dealers that have large stock supplies, you may see prices dip below $200.
I found a unit at Guitar Center, for in stock items only, for $170 free shipping. B&H has it for $199 free shipping. Sweetwater has it for $250.
No replacement model has been announced, but I assume an announcement is forthcoming.
Doesn't look like anything has been announced yet: https://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/cat-audio/resource.latest
as the m10 is still listed.
I'd like:
cardioid microphones
Maybe dual recording like you can do on tascam's dr-2d
Don't want:
touch screen
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I've been thinking about replacing my R-09HR. Since so many people have loved the M10, and who knows what will come if/when it is discontinued, I just ordered an M10 at B&H for $199. Hopefully it will work nicely with my CA14 cards (which I usually tape to the sides of my eyeglasses), or my CA11 croakie cards > CA9200 pre.
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I've been thinking about replacing my R-09HR. Since so many people have loved the M10, and who knows what will come if/when it is discontinued, I just ordered an M10 at B&H for $199. Hopefully it will work nicely with my CA14 cards (which I usually tape to the sides of my eyeglasses), or my CA11 croakie cards > CA9200 pre.
An M10 will definitely play nicely with the CA11>CA9200 combination. Here's the first show I taped with the same set-up:
https://soundcloud.com/liverecordings-1/sets/idlewild-the-roundhouse-london-2015-03-13
Really happy with that :)
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I'm so glad I got the M10 .So far I got 2 great shows out of it with the Sony mics.Kept the volume knob around 3 and 3 1/2 and it came out great.I have no issues with the knob turning and I'm glad they have that type of level control then the digital type that the R09HR has.If they upgrade it.They could make the font on the screen bigger is my only rant about it..I dont need touch screen and WiFi features like the new digital cameras have.I wish the price at B&H will come down on it since I purchased it from there last year to replace my R09HR.I use the R09HR for the backup since it still runs great and it replaced the Sony minidisc I was using for the backup recorder.
I would love to pick up another M10 up before they close out on them.
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X/Y internal mics with wider stereo
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for solely using as the input for mics, with a powered amp (CA), is this the best option? I'm also looking at the R-05. I have an R-09HR but I used it last week and it seems something has hit it hard enough to make the screen have lines in it and there is something rattling inside.... sigh. Sucks.
So I'm looking for a possible replacement. I wasn't sure if the R-05 was better than the R-09HR, and/or if the M10 was better than R-05 in some way (other than mics, which I won't be using).
Thanks!
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M10 has the killer battery life...
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for solely using as the input for mics, with a powered amp (CA), is this the best option? I'm also looking at the R-05. I have an R-09HR but I used it last week and it seems something has hit it hard enough to make the screen have lines in it and there is something rattling inside.... sigh. Sucks.
So I'm looking for a possible replacement. I wasn't sure if the R-05 was better than the R-09HR, and/or if the M10 was better than R-05 in some way (other than mics, which I won't be using).
Thanks!
I had an R-05. I liked it but there seems to be a design issue with the circuit board where the inputs will eventually short out even with gentle use (and it's on the board, not in any wiring).
I replaced that R-05 with an M-10.
The R-05 is very compact and seems to have good specs especially through the line-in. It is definitely more cheaply made and less rugged feeling than the M-10 though. The M-10 recording level control (the wheel) is way, way better than the R-05 push button. Worth the upgrade for that alone IMO. The test specs are better (I think it is a little quieter, cleaner though that may not matter with loud shows). The M-10 limiter is much better. The battery life is better.
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thanks bomb. I never mess with input level since I just do my analog levels through my CA-9200 amp, but I'll keep that in mind. If there will be issues down the road with the board, that's good info.
My concerns with the M-10 are microSD (bleh) and the wheel that can get bumped if it's in my pocket (I have a couple low-pro amps to use for certain situations).
Being used to the R09 for almost 10 years the interface is easy for me too.
Is the M-10 going away? Most Amazon listings seem to be used now.
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thanks bomb. I never mess with input level since I just do my analog levels through my CA-9200 amp, but I'll keep that in mind. If there will be issues down the road with the board, that's good info.
My concerns with the M-10 are microSD (bleh) and the wheel that can get bumped if it's in my pocket (I have a couple low-pro amps to use for certain situations).
Being used to the R09 for almost 10 years the interface is easy for me too.
I don't like the microSD either (and had to get some cards for it, but they're cheap now). The Sony does have 2 GB internal, which has been useful on occasion (like if you forget a card or run out of room as it will seemlessly go cross-memory). The wheel seems pretty hard to move unintentionally. I think the lock locks the levels as well (but not sure about that)?
If you got 10 years out of the R-09 that's great. I'd be very concerned you wouldn't get more than a few months from an R-05 in your pocket (mine was never pocketed).
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for solely using as the input for mics, with a powered amp (CA), is this the best option? I'm also looking at the R-05. I have an R-09HR but I used it last week and it seems something has hit it hard enough to make the screen have lines in it and there is something rattling inside.... sigh. Sucks.
So I'm looking for a possible replacement. I wasn't sure if the R-05 was better than the R-09HR, and/or if the M10 was better than R-05 in some way (other than mics, which I won't be using).
Thanks!
My R-09HR sometimes has lines in it.It comes and goes.I still use it for a back up.
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thanks all!
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My concerns with the M-10 are microSD (bleh)
IMHO, no issue, cheap and just format ever couple of shows, and good as new
the wheel that can get bumped if it's in my pocket (I have a couple low-pro amps to use for certain situations).
Rare, I have been using the m10 since it came out with no issue at all on the knob being bumped or changed in the pocket
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for solely using as the input for mics, with a powered amp (CA), is this the best option? I'm also looking at the R-05. I have an R-09HR but I used it last week and it seems something has hit it hard enough to make the screen have lines in it and there is something rattling inside.... sigh. Sucks.
So I'm looking for a possible replacement. I wasn't sure if the R-05 was better than the R-09HR, and/or if the M10 was better than R-05 in some way (other than mics, which I won't be using).
Thanks!
I had an R-05. I liked it but there seems to be a design issue with the circuit board where the inputs will eventually short out even with gentle use (and it's on the board, not in any wiring).
I replaced that R-05 with an M-10.
The R-05 is very compact and seems to have good specs especially through the line-in. It is definitely more cheaply made and less rugged feeling than the M-10 though. The M-10 recording level control (the wheel) is way, way better than the R-05 push button. Worth the upgrade for that alone IMO. The test specs are better (I think it is a little quieter, cleaner though that may not matter with loud shows). The M-10 limiter is much better. The battery life is better.
I have two R-05's and they both get used at least every week, mostly in low pro situations. They are both from when the model was first introduced and I have never had any issues. I also had one I sold, the hold switch had stopped working, but in all other ways it functioned as nicely as if brand new. I have not heard of any design issues and the deck is still sold. I guess it's apples and oranges, because I think the M-10 is more poorly made, with issues of the 2 channels not being balanced and the micro card being very touchy, as well as the battery door. I think the Marantz PMD 620 MKII, not the original one, is better than both, as well as the DR-2d, which is a bit bigger than I prefer, but I still like to use the R-05 as my low pro go to I think it probably is a matter of taste and personal preference.
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thanks!
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Since I just transfer the files from the M10 to my computer and move them to my external HD.I dont even touch the MicroSD card.The card been in the M10 since I got it.
I had no issues with the volume knob.Luckily its still stiff to turn and gets taped for just in case it gets hit.
My only gripe and rant with the M10 is the small print on the screen.The R-09HR is readable with the black and white screen.
I hope Sony dont kill the M10 off yet because I like to get another M10 for a backup and retire the R-09HR because its getting old and just use it for simple tasks.
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Since I just transfer the files from the M10 to my computer and move them to my external HD.I dont even touch the MicroSD card.The card been in the M10 since I got it.
Same here. And while the lock does *not* lock the gain, I never have any problems with the gain wheel turning unintentionally either. (The switches on the back do occasionally, but that's immediately apparent on the display, and a couple pieces of tape will take care of that regardless.)
The battery life is truly ridiculous. I never remember to turn the damn thing off, and the batteries still last for months.
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Since I just transfer the files from the M10 to my computer and move them to my external HD.I dont even touch the MicroSD card.The card been in the M10 since I got it.
Same here. And while the lock does *not* lock the gain, I never have any problems with the gain wheel turning unintentionally either. (The switches on the back do occasionally, but that's immediately apparent on the display, and a couple pieces of tape will take care of that regardless.)
The battery life is truly ridiculous. I never remember to turn the damn thing off, and the batteries still last for months.
Yea .I tape the backside switches up too.I agree 110 percent on the battery life.Running and on standby .I just swop the rechargeable Duracell batteries every month just to keep it happy.I'm happier with the old fashion rotary gain knob then the digital gain control on the R-09HR.
Sony did a nice job of coming up the this recorder.I wonder what they will come up next .
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
Tinybox... though I'd rather fine adjust on the recorder anyway.
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
No external amp here, just battery box.
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In. :)
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
nBoxPremium has nothing but on/off, the m10 is volume control
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interesting. I guess I do it backwards. I love my 9100 but it's pretty big.
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
nBoxPremium has nothing but on/off, the m10 is volume control
what's an "nBoxPremium"?
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
I have the CA-9100 preamp and I use the level adjustment on that AND the wheel on the Sony PCM m10. It is very nice to have both for fine tuning. Micro SD are not too expensive. I use a 32gb and get 15 hours of recording time at 24/96
After every show I copy to my computer, but leave the original wav file on the micro SD. I like to keep to keep the cards as a backup, and its also nice to keep the music on there so I can use the M10 for playback on headphones or plugged into the AUX jack on my car stereo, so that's another reason I don't clear the card and reuse.
When the card fills up I just put it away in a little box. All my original recordings are in there. It's comforting to know that they are all there safe in case my computer crashes, is stolen, or whatever…
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If I am using the preamp to adjust the gain, the gain wheel on the M10 is at 4.
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those who use the gain knob, are you not using an external amp? I don't even mess with gain on my recorder, just use my 9100's analog.
nBoxPremium has nothing but on/off, the m10 is volume control
what's an "nBoxPremium"?
nbox/nbox platinum
It's is a box made by a ts member to power schoeps mics (and now some others like nbob akg actives)
Runs on 4 9v batteries. Platinum one runs for days while regular not so much
It may have built in gain but one way or the other you must use the m10 to adjust overall gain/volume with this set up.
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When the card fills up I just put it away in a little box. All my original recordings are in there. It's comforting to know that they are all there safe in case my computer crashes, is stolen, or whatever…
I reuse my card, but not before I've backed up my recordings both to an external backup drive and to Crashplan. (Which is what I do with all my files these days.)
Also, forgot to mention that the M10 will cross-save data (with no gaps) to its internal memory and the card if it runs out of room on one or the other. Not sure if that's common for other devices, but it's a nice feature regardless.
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Can an M10 that switches to internal memory even though the memory card is not full, be considered faulty? I never have issues when doing single shows, but at festivals this happens all day long. The memory card is no where close to full and it just switches to internal. Yes I have it set to cross memory and also have it set to record to card first. I'm going to do some tests at home with the cross record disabled, run it all day on memory card and see what happens.
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I would consider that faulty. Is it possible that the memory card is damaged or doesn't really have the capacity that it is supposed to have?
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What size card is it >and does it switch to internal at the same amount of data each time?Either the card is too big for the m10 or it is counterfeit i think.
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try to use SDformat tool and then re-format in the M10 and re-test, imho
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It's a new 32GB SanDisk. This is the second card I tried. Also did the same thing with a 64GB Silicon Power, but I found the SP card to be bad. Both cards formatted in the M10. I guess its possible to have two bad cards. The SanDisk says it has 22 gigs free. I don't know if its switching to internal at the same amount of data each time. I'll have to check that.
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how do the cards read in a computer? same volume (give or take a smidge) free?
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I'd wonder where the cards came from...
The counterfeits have a way of reformatting to make them appear they have the nominal volume they're supposed to but they run out when the real size is reached. It sounds like the card is holding about 8 GB? Perhaps a cheap 8 GB card re-labelled and sold as a 32 GB "Sandisk"?
As has been said around here a lot of times don't buy discounted cards on ebay or Amazon. Make sure you buy retail packaged from some place like Staples, Best Buy or somewhere that is buying direct from the manufacturer...
I'd be surprised if it's a real card. In the computer as an exercise you could try copying 20 GB or whatever of files onto it and see if they actually fit.
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Got to watch out for those counterfeits online or dollar store.
I just keep the micro in the M10 and transfer the recordings to to my backup drive and to a regular size SD for backup and storage.
I had a PNY card go bad in my new Nikon Digital camera last November .I send it to a friend who does file recovery and he said the the controller chip inside the SD fried and could not find a donor controller chip to replace the bad one.The SD card was about 4 years old and it was will used in my digital cameras .The R-09HR,MP3 player Digital picture frame to just name a few. I think I purchased it at BJs or Walmart.Sorry about drifting off the topic.
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I don't think either card is counterfeit. They were bought from B&H. Both cards are to old at this point to return.
I always had problems with the SP card. Tried all kinds of formatters. But again, by the time I realized the card was toast it was to late to return it.
The SanDisk is reading as a 32GB on the laptop and it was formatted in the M10.
I'm going to try a different card and let it run with cross record off, but it is kind of hard to trust the recorder at this point. I did lose a couple sets over the weekend.
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As has been said around here a lot of times don't buy discounted cards on ebay or Amazon. Make sure you buy retail packaged from some place like Staples, Best Buy or somewhere that is buying direct from the manufacturer...
I always thought Amazon was one of the legit retailers, provided you're not purchasing from a third party. I know that Sandisk sells directly on there and have bought from them in the past. Should I be avoiding Amazon as a whole for memory from now on?
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I have had a genuine retail-packaged, full-price 64GB SanDisk microsd go bad on me before. It wasn't right away, but after a few months using in my phone holding music, it read fine but acted as though it was write protected (it wasn't - you just couldn't delete anything or write to it.) It couldn't be formatted in any device, and even a low-level format wouldn't work. The replacement I bought has worked fine in 2 phones since then.
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Its looking like I have a faulty M10. It takes two or three tries to get any card to load. There must be some damage inside that slot. This could be why its switching to internal memory while recording. I remember at a fest last year another taper tried to load the card backwards. :facepalm:
Anyone have Sony repair info? Or maybe I should just get another 70D. ;)
Edit: Looks like the LA service is the one for audio?
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Its looking like I have a faulty M10. It takes two or three tries to get any card to load. There must be some damage inside that slot. This could be why its switching to internal memory while recording. I remember at a fest last year another taper tried to load the card backwards. :facepalm:
Anyone have Sony repair info? Or maybe I should just get another 70D. ;)
Edit: Looks like the LA service is the one for audio?
I wonder if the SDcard slot contacts need cleaning.I had issues with other devices with dirty contacts.Or the taper did screw up the slot like you said.I split open fix one of my digital camera and clean the dust,pocket lint out of it and rebent the pins in.I dont recommend anybody doing this unless they know how to work on electronics.I had to do it with the R-09HR.
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Re ^ and ^^ and ^^^^
I don't think either card is counterfeit. They were bought from B&H. Both cards are to old at this point to return.
Cards from B&H should be legit, though the no-name one may have it's own issues...
Amazon should be a legit but you have to watch out that it's really from Amazon. Third party sellers can be anything and occasionally Amazon will take orders and flip them over to third party sellers in their channel. I'd assume they wouldn't do that with cards but who knows...
The slot could be bad though I'm not sure why it would start out OK then at some point stop reading. Perhaps it seems that was an interim problem before it failed completely though?
Sorry to hear it... The card slot is the one thing that makes me a bit uncomfortable about the recorder... It seems really flimsy and it can be touchy on the load. I may be used to it now but I did have one episode where it seemed loaded but wasn't completely and only showed the internal memory. I'm starting to lean more toward the cable approach to transfer files despite how slow it is.
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^, ^^, ^^^:
When my first M10 needed service, I was instructed to send it to the Teaneck, NJ service center. I'm on the east coast, so it may be based on your region. My internal mics had about a 3dB imbalance, and they promptly determined it was a manufacturing defect and sent out a new unit.
The microSD slot is a weak point. I used only the internal memory for a long time, but the first time I tried to use a card, I kept trying to put it in backwards. It's also easy to put it in the correct way, but slightly misaligned. You have to be very careful with it.
Because of this, I never take the card out and transfer through the recorder. The slow transfer speed is worth it to not have to deal with the card.
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^, ^^, ^^^:
When my first M10 needed service, I was instructed to send it to the Teaneck, NJ service center. I'm on the east coast, so it may be based on your region. My internal mics had about a 3dB imbalance, and they promptly determined it was a manufacturing defect and sent out a new unit.
The microSD slot is a weak point. I used only the internal memory for a long time, but the first time I tried to use a card, I kept trying to put it in backwards. It's also easy to put it in the correct way, but slightly misaligned. You have to be very careful with it.
Because of this, I never take the card out and transfer through the recorder. The slow transfer speed is worth it to not have to deal with the card.
I always take the card out and it is sloppy going back in. I sometimes get an error message after loading. Once its loaded properly it should be good to go. Teaneck it is. I really can't trust it at this point.
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The microSD slot is a weak point. I used only the internal memory for a long time, but the first time I tried to use a card, I kept trying to put it in backwards. It's also easy to put it in the correct way, but slightly misaligned. You have to be very careful with it.
Because of this, I never take the card out and transfer through the recorder. The slow transfer speed is worth it to not have to deal with the card.
It took me a few "duh" moments to realize that the micro card only works in the position of the graphic on the back of the unit, and you should only put the card "that way"
Also, I take my card out after every show for a faster transfer via a full SD card, into the slot in my laptop... and no issues with that, I am just easy with the card removal and replacement.
I can tell you from experience, it it best for the card to be formatted after ever few shows, it just seems to run "cleaner"
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My 64gb microSD card comes out every time I record something to transfer the files to my laptop. I also use my M10 as my portable music player, so frequently take the card out to swap music files around. When the card is nearly full I take the card out to delete all my recordings. The only time the card was formatted was the day it arrived from Amazon. I've had no problems so far.
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I've been recording all week to the memory card and no issues. I have it set to card first and cross is on. So I'm guessing I got it to mount proprerly and from now on I'll leave it in and transfer via M10 instead of removing the card. Either that or request a repair.
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Any guesses as to what the LCF Low Cut Filter rolls off at?
I looked through the manual and did not find anything. I also searched the forums and came up empty so apoligies in advance if this has already been covered
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Any guesses as to what the LCF Low Cut Filter rolls off at?
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=148448.0
"Lo cut filter frequency starts at 200Hz, 24dB/Octave filter, effects both Mic and Line input"
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Finally finished reading this entire thread. Some great info in here.
I bought an M10 a few weeks ago and have been digitizing my vinyl collection with it.
Haven't gotten to record any shows yet with it, but I did go ahead and order a CA-9200, a pair of CA-14 Cards, and a pair of CA-14 Omnis.
I can already tell this player is waaay better than the Sony DAT player I used to record with in the 90's.
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Checking in. just got one yesterday. although the 32gb card that came with it doesn't seem to be recognized. any card suggestions?
i don't have the time to backread the entire thread...
what are the best settings for what we do? what should i turn on/off?
thanks!
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This is the card I use; it works like a charm! :)
# SanDisk Ultra 16GB UHS-I/Class 10 Micro SDHC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M55C0LK
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Checking in. just got one yesterday. although the 32gb card that came with it doesn't seem to be recognized. any card suggestions?
i don't have the time to backread the entire thread...
what are the best settings for what we do? what should i turn on/off?
thanks!
flip the card over, willing to bet its in backwards - common user error
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About settings...they're in a PCM-M10 thread here somewhere.
Just go through the Menu and Detail Menu sub-menu and mostly use common sense. REC mode .wav or at least 320, Memory internal or external card (your choice). In the Detail Menu enable Cross-Memory Recording so if you run out on the card it switches to internal (or vice versa). Choose your battery type (NiMH are rechargeables) and how long you want the backlight to stay on.
PRE REC....when you hit Record it's paused (and blinking) so you can find a level. You have to then hit Pause to start recording. Pre Rec On means that it will grab 5 seconds before you started (un-paused) if you're a little slow.
Limiter is contentious here but I always have it on. If there's a HUGE LOUD PEAK the limiter will drop your record level. Otherwise it does nothing whatsoever. It's not like the compressors (sometimes called limiters) used at radio stations or studios that keep all the music within a narrow dynamic range. I think of it as the airbag--just there for emergencies.
Don't forget the switches on the back! They make a big difference. Use Manual Level (Take a look at how the display reverses when it's on Auto). DPC off. Probably Low sensitivity, though that only affects internal mics and mic recording and you're going to be going Line-in with the preamp.
You'll have to figure out the record level you are most comfortable with, with your preferred combo of settings on the preamp and the level knob. I like to keep it so the green lights flash at the peaks of the music; other people live a little more dangerously and like to stay in the green-light zone more consistently. If the red light flashes...you'll want the limiter on.
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The limiter is fine for fast peaks such as hand claps from people around you.
Longer peaks (especially in the bass region) are not suitable for the limiter.
I've ruined recordings that peaked at -5.7 dBFS with the limiter on an
otherwise known-good setup: DPA 4061 > 9VBB > M10 @ line-in @ 6.5
The 9VBB was: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=80917.0
I'm pretty sure all my early bad experiences with the DPA 4063 > M10 PiP mic-in @ ~2.0 were also from leaving the limiter on.
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Checking in. just got one yesterday. although the 32gb card that came with it doesn't seem to be recognized. any card suggestions?
i don't have the time to backread the entire thread...
what are the best settings for what we do? what should i turn on/off?
thanks!
flip the card over, willing to bet its in backwards - common user error
nope. tried that a few times before posting.
edit: apparently it's tricky to get it in JUST right... i've flipped it a dozen times but it just now finally found the slot and was readable... weird. 32 gb gives 31 hours of record time at 24/48 though!
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nope. tried that a few times before posting.
edit: apparently it's tricky to get it in JUST right... i've flipped it a dozen times but it just now finally found the slot and was readable... weird. 32 gb gives 31 hours of record time at 24/48 though!
Best trick I use, is to insert it exactly the way the card image is shown on the back of the unit... push it in until it is firm, then "click" it in the rest of the way (a 2 step process)
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I don't understand what effect the limiter would have if you weren't going into the red zone. To my understanding nothing happens with the limiter below that. Were there sudden downshifts in volume with big bass notes?
Or is it possible the mics were under-powered and distorting on their own from loud bass?
The specs for the 4061 are confusing to me:
http://www.dpamicrophones.com/en/products.aspx?c=item&category=128&item=24039#specifications
Which says: For wireless systems: Min. 5 V – max. 50 V through DPA adapter. With DAD6001-BC/DAD6024/DAD4099: 48 V phantom power ±4 V for full performance.
Obviously 9V is above the 5V minimum, but 48V phantom power--to get the maximum SPL of 144--is a lot higher than 9 V.
I know from my own mistakes that low power is a great way to get lousy distorted bass.
Going through mic-in you had both low voltage (PiP is less than 5V) and the possibility of preamp distortion. Very low record-level settings on the PCM-M10 also can be a little wonky. But that would sound different from the limiter suddenly making the volume dip.
I'm no audio pro, so just asking for an explanation.
The limiter is fine for fast peaks such as hand claps from people around you.
Longer peaks (especially in the bass region) are not suitable for the limiter.
I've ruined recordings that peaked at -5.7 dBFS with the limiter on an
otherwise known-good setup: DPA 4061 > 9VBB > M10 @ line-in @ 6.5
The 9VBB was: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=80917.0
I'm pretty sure all my early bad experiences with the DPA 4063 > M10 PiP mic-in @ ~2.0 were also from leaving the limiter on.
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nope. tried that a few times before posting.
edit: apparently it's tricky to get it in JUST right... i've flipped it a dozen times but it just now finally found the slot and was readable... weird. 32 gb gives 31 hours of record time at 24/48 though!
Best trick I use, is to insert it exactly the way the card image is shown on the back of the unit... push it in until it is firm, then "click" it in the rest of the way (a 2 step process)
pretty much exactly what finally worked for me. :p
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earmonger: I would guess the limiter starts to kick in around -12dBFS. Depending on how risk-averse or not I feel, I usually want my peaks to be in the -6 to -10 range).
I've definitely recorded louder shows (at line-in at 3.7 - 6.5) with DPA 4061 with the same 9V BB without bass distortion problems as long as I left the limiter off.
From what I've read on TS, the DPA converters output 5V DC. Using 48V (or perhaps even 12V) would fry the DPA 4061s based on my reading here.
I took a big chance and pulled Godflesh last night from the front row with the 4063s into M10 PiP mic-in @ level=2.0 @48kHz. Sounded fine on a hyper-detailed headphone setup (Benchmark DAC1 Pre > Sennheiser HD 800) although there was a 1.6ms window with 35 clipped samples in the left channel, but no more than 6 consecutive clipped ones, so I couldn't hear it, at least.
What I do notice in many of my recordings is distortion in the mids/highs, but that could be the mics picking up distortion in the PA system that my earplugged ears did not notice.
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earmonger: I would guess the limiter starts to kick in around -12dBFS.
From the M10 manual:
"When the 'LIMITER' is set to 'ON,' the limiter function of the PCM recorder covers the input from the maximum input level to +12 dB. If the input exceeds this limit, sounds may be distorted."
That'd seem to imply it reduces peaks in the 0 to +12 dB range, but nothing below that. Though just dropping everything from there to 0 dB would give you the same clipping as no limiter, so hmm.
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i'm not a fan of limiters on recorders. i like to play it conservative anyway. i usually peak at -12 to -6. six decibels is a huge peak to clip. and even if you hit zero, it's not the end of the world.
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earmonger: I would guess the limiter starts to kick in around -12dBFS.
From the M10 manual:
"When the 'LIMITER' is set to 'ON,' the limiter function of the PCM recorder covers the input from the maximum input level to +12 dB. If the input exceeds this limit, sounds may be distorted."
That'd seem to imply it reduces peaks in the 0 to +12 dB range, but nothing below that. Though just dropping everything from there to 0 dB would give you the same clipping as no limiter, so hmm.
In my experience it doesn't kick on until levels go significantly beyond -12 dB; maybe more like -3 dB.
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I took a big chance and pulled Godflesh last night from the front row with the 4063s into M10 PiP mic-in @ level=2.0 @48kHz. Sounded fine on a hyper-detailed headphone setup (Benchmark DAC1 Pre > Sennheiser HD 800) although there was a 1.6ms window with 35 clipped samples in the left channel, but no more than 6 consecutive clipped ones, so I couldn't hear it, at least.
I bet that was a good show! Godflesh is awesome live!
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pretty much exactly what finally worked for me. :p
:clapping:
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Just grabbed a second M-10 (a refurb) while I still can. Will use it while I try to get my original fixed. (PIP died--any ideas?)
Will be glad to have a backup, in any case.
Damn brilliant little machines ;D
Dave
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Will be glad to have a backup, in any case.
At this price, I have one too... not easy to get a 722 in the door these days
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I have not seen the limiter light up below -3dB below full-scale. I have run shows where the limiter light popped on, and I didn't have any peaks in the final file over -0.3 dB, maybe even 0.5?
I love the M10 limiter, use it all the time.
earmonger: I would guess the limiter starts to kick in around -12dBFS.
From the M10 manual:
"When the 'LIMITER' is set to 'ON,' the limiter function of the PCM recorder covers the input from the maximum input level to +12 dB. If the input exceeds this limit, sounds may be distorted."
That'd seem to imply it reduces peaks in the 0 to +12 dB range, but nothing below that. Though just dropping everything from there to 0 dB would give you the same clipping as no limiter, so hmm.
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From the M10 manual:
"When the 'LIMITER' is set to 'ON,' the limiter function of the PCM recorder covers the input from the maximum input level to +12 dB. If the input exceeds this limit, sounds may be distorted."
That'd seem to imply it reduces peaks in the 0 to +12 dB range, but nothing below that. Though just dropping everything from there to 0 dB would give you the same clipping as no limiter, so hmm.
IMHO, all the more reason not to use it for live music recording
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^ In and of itself the limiter does not leave anything clipped or distorted so far as I can tell.
It may help with a rare transient. If someone really pounds something to way over the usual input level that peak will still be clipped though. Safety margin perhaps but I'd not rely on it. It doesn't seem to hurt but may not necessarily be a substantial help.
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Hello, I just bought an M10 and have a question
The manual says " A microsSD (FAT16) card smaller than 2 GB and a microSDHC (FAT32) card from 4GB to 16GB are supported"
So I wonder if I can use a 32GB or if it's still limited to 16GB? Anyone have tried a SanDisk MicroSDHC 32GB, Class 4?
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^ I think that's old.
I regularly use a standard 32GB Sandisk. Format it in the recorder...
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^ I think that's old.
I regularly use a standard 32GB Sandisk. Format it in the recorder...
Same here - works fine. 16GB may have been the largest microSD available at the time the M10 was released which is why it says that. Kind of like my old cell phone stated it would only support up to 32GB cards, but I used a 64GB and it worked.
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Def will not work with 64gb in the m10
Keep in mind and turn on cross record so if your card fills you still have 4 more gb to go
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I think the first 32 GB microSDHC came out at almost the same time as the M10, maybe a little later, so Sony probably never tested them; since the recorder is HC compliant, though, it is not a huge surprise that 32 GB cards will work. The M10 predates microSDXC, so it is also not a surprise that cards larger than 32 GB can cause problems...
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Hi all.I just got new B&H catalog.The M10 did not make it in it but they still have the M10 online with a jacked up price of $245 bucks.
I still using my 8gb micro card in the M10 and have no issues with the card which is a Toshiba.I dont need a bigger card at this moment since I dump the the recording off the micro onto my external drive everytime after I use it.
I would not take any chances on stock piling previous recordings as adding new recordings nightly on those big micro cards in case the card goes belly up and cant be recoverable .I had a regular size SD card that the controller chip inside went bad according to my data recovery person said.. 4 days of Still shots and Video was lost on that card and had to redo the job over again..
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Hi all.I just got new B&H catalog.The M10 did not make it in it but they still have the M10 online with a jacked up price of $245 bucks.
I wonder if that implies a replacement device will be announced at CES?
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^ I guess the rumor of the M10 being discontinued was never substantiated?
Would be great to see Sony release an updated recorder but I wouldn't read too much into the M10 not being included in the current print copy of the B&H catalog; that place is huge and there's no way they can include everything in the catalog.
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^ I guess the rumor of the M10 being discontinued was never substantiated?
Would be great to see Sony release an updated recorder but I wouldn't read too much into the M10 not being included in the current print copy of the B&H catalog; that place is huge and there's no way they can include everything in the catalog.
Agreed. I just got the new catalog and they've really cut back / condensed a lot of the audio side of things. And they only have listed one Schoeps product in their print catalog for a while, while in reality they carry or can special order the full line.
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Still showing on here: http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/cat-audio/
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Wow this is a cool fucking little deck. >:D
Question....does this thing do auto track splits, and if so, where does everyone set theirs at? Or is it nonadjustable? Are they seamless?
Thanks!
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Seamless, do my fixing in post work
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I've only run it a few times bit I'm really impressed with the adc. I did a set one out of my nbox into my wmod 661 and set two into the m10. So far can't really hear the difference.
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There is no auto track marking function (if you mean the kind of function that minidisc had that would insert a mark every X minutes).
But the very unobtrusive remote of the PCM-M10 gives you a track mark button. I do most of my track breaks at the show, during applause, and if I miss one or misplace one they can be inserted or removed (and re-inserted) later.
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I will die having never used a remote when taping. Once I hit hold and get levels set no touchy. ;D
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There's been a lot of M10-related posts lately, so I thought I'd bump the "official" discussion thread. I've been wondering why people keep starting new M10 threads, and maybe it's because they don't know this one exists.
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I'm wondering if anyone has tried extending the remote for the M10?
The plug on the remote looks like a standard TRRS plug, so I am thinking a TRRS-TRRS extension cable would work, something like this:
https://goo.gl/pNvGv8
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okay i had too send my 5 month old M10 away to Sony because it would stop recording.
anyway since Sony Canada has the M10 Discounted and i have though about buying another one,
i was wondering what out of the box ideas you have.
I.E. SD 552 or Mixpre and Tascam DR-40 Since the DR-40 is $129.99 or Zoom 8 if the Pre's are a lot better than Tascam DR-70D, DR-701D.
any other out of box ideas, i don't have a iphone so that is not a option.
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Sony Canada has the M10 Discounted
Where did you find the M10 discounted? The lowest Canadian price I've seen is $299.99 at Henry's.
BTW the Sony Canada site has listed the M10 as "DISCONTINUED".
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It's not showing up on Sony's Product page:
https://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/cat-audio/cat-recorders/
Or has that been the case for a while?
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It's not showing up on Sony's Product page:
https://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/cat-audio/cat-recorders/
Or has that been the case for a while?
i just noted it recently but maybe been like that for awhile
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i just noted it recently but maybe been like that for awhile
You said before that Sony Canada has the M10 discounted.
Did you mean "discontinued"?
Darn that spell-check!
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i just noted it recently but maybe been like that for awhile
You said before that Sony Canada has the M10 discounted.
Did you mean "discontinued"?
Darn that spell-check!
Yes Discountinued
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If anyone is considering buying an M10, it appears to be now or never. Most of the usual places no longer have them, and these are the only ones I could find from reputable dealers:
http://www.samash.com/sony-pcm-m10-portable-digital-recorder-spcmm10bx (http://www.samash.com/sony-pcm-m10-portable-digital-recorder-spcmm10bx)
http://www.frontendaudio.com/Sony-PCMM10-B-p/9999-14110.htm (http://www.frontendaudio.com/Sony-PCMM10-B-p/9999-14110.htm)
http://www.adorama.com/sopcmm10rd.html (http://www.adorama.com/sopcmm10rd.html)
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Any european outlets?
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^^ FWI, that last link is 404
Thanks for the heads up; I deleted it. It definitely worked last night, but now their entire site seems to be down.
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Any european outlets?
Visual Impact in the UK have stock and are charging £136 inc vat with free shipping to the UK, unsure for other European countries
http://www.visuals.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=PCM-M10CEK (http://www.visuals.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=PCM-M10CEK)
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Any idea what EK stands for? I googled it, but couldn't find it.
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Not sure, but I bought my back up from there about 3 years ago. It has the same model reference and I can see no difference to the one I had shipped over from the States when they first came out.
Although it is no longer available from amazon.co.uk it is still listed and they list PCM-M10CEK as the manufacturers' part number.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-PCM-M10-Digital-Voice-Recorder/dp/B0030BZPKQ (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-PCM-M10-Digital-Voice-Recorder/dp/B0030BZPKQ)
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Any european outlets?
Visual Impact in the UK have stock and are charging £136 inc vat with free shipping to the UK, unsure for other European countries
Thanks for the link; the deck arrived. The website now appears to have sold out. (!?)
So what is the successor for the M10?
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I ordered another one, a backup, from Visual Impact. It arrived today. Thanks for the link.
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I received a reply from Sony Nordic when asking for a successor to M10.
Roughly translated from Swedish:
"New audio recording devices were released in March 2016 and they are the newest on the market. Unfortunately I don't know if a successor with precisely those specifications will be released. However, if you have not already done so, check out the later versions of the PCM-M10 which is D-50 but also the D-100."
According to their answer, M20 will not be their next release. ;)
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Good look buying a D-50 :lol:
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"However, if you have not already done so, check out the later versions of the PCM-M10 which is D-50 but also the D-100."
Pointing out the obvious to the rep from Sony Nordic, aside from the D50 also being discontinued, both it and the D100 are considerably larger and more expensive than the M10. A little disheartening that Sony doesn't have a current successor to the M10 nor does one appear to be in the pipeline.
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I suspect that Sony may no longer see this market segment as a worthwhile investment. It may depend on how well the D100 sells, which is very expensive given its features. There may still be enough people buying it though, such that Sony sees no reason to develop a cheaper unit in the line to replace the M10.
An "M20" that is nothing more than a refresh would be fairly boring. They would need to add real functionality, and make something competitive with recorders such as the new Tascam DR-100mkIII for me to take interest. That would cost them a huge amount in R&D and production, which is why I don't think it's ever going to happen.
The real question may be why they are discontinuing the M10, when they could just keep pumping them out with no new revision and the associated costs that would bring. Either it's not selling well anymore, or it may be still selling very well, but they want to drive customers towards the D100 which they are avoiding because of the price.
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Was just at B&H Photo video in NYC hoping to pick up one of the M10s before they disappear forever. No luck (totally out of stock), but the salesperson in the Pro Audio section mentioned that Sony had announced to them that there indeed was to be a M10 successor that was to be smaller and with higher sound quality. No more specifics, and no timeline for its release, unfortunately.
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^ Interesting; thanks! I wonder if we don't get an announcement pretty soon, as fall is probably a good time for product introductions (so that the "M20" makes it's way on to lots of Christmas lists). Assuming a new model is in the works, Sony was quite clever about this. With no known successor to the popular M10 announced, they kind of fueled a run on the remaining M10s...
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Was just at B&H Photo video in NYC hoping to pick up one of the M10s before they disappear forever. No luck (totally out of stock), but the salesperson in the Pro Audio section mentioned that Sony had announced to them that there indeed was to be a M10 successor that was to be smaller and with higher sound quality. No more specifics, and no timeline for its release, unfortunately.
While that statement may sound great, I'd actually be kind of disappointed if it were true. If it's smaller than the M10, there goes the possibility of P48 inputs, although I figured that wasn't going to happen anyway. "Higher sound quality" probably means they use the A/D section from the D100 so they can slap their "Hi-Res Audio" marketing badge on it and crow about 192kHz and DSD.
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A smaller m10 suits me just fine.
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If a new "M20" was to be exactly the same as the M10 only slightly smaller I would happily upgrade, if it was slightly smaller and played FLAC files I would very happily upgrade.
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My first exposure to the m10 was a review discussing the m10 as a journalism tool. That might be a larger market for a more compact recorder than folks using it for concert recording.
Sony may not want to put xlr inputs on a recorder that would undercut their d100. Sonys marketing also seems much different to me than tascam in that tascam seems to offer many more overlapping and confusingly similar recorders, mostly all aimed at musicians.
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Only place I could find it online is on ebay, and the only reasonable price (e.g. less than $300) is from "downtown", apparently another camera shop based in NYC. They have 10 left if anyone wants to try them. It could be returned stock being sold as new since they don't seal/tape the boxes. Hope a "M20" comes out someday, the M10 was/is a nearly perfect recorder for tapers that seemed to be nearly universally loved here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PCM-M10-Portable-Audio-Recorder-Black-Kit-/182233604201?hash=item2a6df82069:g:ee8AAOSwRGlXpkBL (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PCM-M10-Portable-Audio-Recorder-Black-Kit-/182233604201?hash=item2a6df82069:g:ee8AAOSwRGlXpkBL)
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I just picked up an extra from Newegg/Adorama — looks like they still have some in stock:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4P01ZS0829
I've definitely seen M10s in use by journalists (I'm one); not sure if it really needs to be much smaller to appeal to journalists, and "higher sound quality" is overkill. I'm puzzled as well why they'd discontinue an item that at the very least continues to sell well to a niche market, though there's no accounting for marketing strategies.
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That looks like the red version from Adorama on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002KGV3C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472880917&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=pcm-m10+red&dpPl=1&dpID=51BO-HOo0HL&ref=plSrch
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'Hate to side track the M20 talk, but I've got a question about using the M10 as a MP3 player when traveling.
I've got a 16gb card in the slot and have renamed several folders with appropriate titles for the new contents that I drag and drop from my PC file structure to the M10.
Occasionally, not every case, the files that are copied from PC > M10 will appear in order, but the last track will play first on the M10. Very frustrating and I don't really know what I may be doing to promote this behavior. Perhaps it's not a very reliable file structure.
Thanks for any comments
I use my M10 as a portable music player, and there is quite a few positive discussions about the audio quality of the device such as this here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/456327/sony-pcm-m10-as-portable-player
Of course the main disadvantage is that it's a recording device, and not an audio player, and the file structure is arranged to play in order that the file was created. For some people the downside is outweighed by the advantage that you can play WAV files to a high standard, and it's less money than equivalent audio players.
I think the ordering can be solved by the order in which the files are saved onto your SD card.
I have some folders where the tracks play out of order, but it's usually something like tracks 5 to 12 and then 1 to 4. Easily solved by tracking through to start at 1.
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Sometimes, if you click the first file and then shift click the last one, the first one actually gets copies last. Try clicking the last file and then shift clicking the first one to highlight them all. They will probably copy in order. Maybe it is the time they were created on the microSD, not created originally. Just a guess.
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That looks like the red version from Adorama on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002KGV3C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472880917&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=pcm-m10+red&dpPl=1&dpID=51BO-HOo0HL&ref=plSrch
Yep, same one. Shipping was free either way.
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didn't want to start a new thread but is the M10 bigger than the Roland r-05
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Track naming OK with leading zeroes?
remember,
1
10
2
3...
'Hate to side track the M20 talk, but I've got a question about using the M10 as a MP3 player when traveling.
I've got a 16gb card in the slot and have renamed several folders with appropriate titles for the new contents that I drag and drop from my PC file structure to the M10.
Occasionally, not every case, the files that are copied from PC > M10 will appear in order, but the last track will play first on the M10. Very frustrating and I don't really know what I may be doing to promote this behavior. Perhaps it's not a very reliable file structure.
Thanks for any comments
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I'm running my newly acquired DPA 4061's --> 9V BB ---> M10 for the first time -- for a couple of upcoming John Prine shows -- and wondering, LINE IN or MIC IN? Thanks!
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I'm running my newly acquired DPA 4061's --> 9V BB ---> M10 for the first time -- for a couple of upcoming John Prine shows -- and wondering, LINE IN or MIC IN? Thanks!
I would use LINE IN.
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I'm running my newly acquired DPA 4061's --> 9V BB ---> M10 for the first time -- for a couple of upcoming John Prine shows -- and wondering, LINE IN or MIC IN? Thanks!
I would use mic in. A battery box is not a preamplifier only a power supply. John Prine should not be overwhelmingly loud.
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I'm running my newly acquired DPA 4061's --> 9V BB ---> M10 for the first time -- for a couple of upcoming John Prine shows -- and wondering, LINE IN or MIC IN? Thanks!
I would use mic in. A battery box is not a preamplifier only a power supply. John Prine should not be overwhelmingly loud.
If there's an opener, play with the gain settings for both and see which one sits in a more comfortable range. You'll probably be fine with either LINE IN with the gain cranked way up or MIC IN with the gain set lower. (I've never used 4061s, so can't speak to how sensitive they are.)
And, of course, be sure to record in 24-bit so that if you end up with a quieter recording, you have plenty of bits to play with when enloudening it later.
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I'm running my newly acquired DPA 4061's --> 9V BB ---> M10 for the first time -- for a couple of upcoming John Prine shows -- and wondering, LINE IN or MIC IN? Thanks!
I would use mic in. A battery box is not a preamplifier only a power supply. John Prine should not be overwhelmingly loud.
I agree, but use the LOW setting on the mic attenuation
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yes, always use the low setting for mic input. The high setting is way too hot.
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Thanks for all the input, I'm going to take advantage of the opening act and do a little experimenting, I will post my results!
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M10's preamps are pretty good.... IMO, go battery box > MIC input.
Set your peak lights for -12... set levels to try to keep em peaking in the green (as close as you can). Even with 24 bit, do your best not to waste any bits.
From people smarter than me, the M10 is marketed as 24 bit.... but results are closer to 16 bits.
Start with levels set at 4 or 5 on the dial... and adjust accordingly.
Fantastic little deck!!!
........I think I met you once years ago at Toyota Park Phish maybe?? You told me that you used to run B&K's maybe??
Make great tapes man!!!
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Wanna check your levels with nobody else around? Try hollering a few feet away from your setup... you know, the way folks will at a John Prine show?! That oughtta be louder than the music, unless you set your mics next to the main PA stacks.
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Wanna check your levels with nobody else around? Try hollering a few feet away from your setup... you know, the way folks will at a John Prine show?! That oughtta be louder than the music, unless you set your mics next to the main PA stacks.
Funny, but true! Good idea!
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M10's preamps are pretty good.... IMO, go battery box > MIC input.
Set your peak lights for -12... set levels to try to keep em peaking in the green (as close as you can). Even with 24 bit, do your best not to waste any bits.
From people smarter than me, the M10 is marketed as 24 bit.... but results are closer to 16 bits.
Start with levels set at 4 or 5 on the dial... and adjust accordingly.
Fantastic little deck!!!
........I think I met you once years ago at Toyota Park Phish maybe?? You told me that you used to run B&K's maybe??
Make great tapes man!!!
Yup, that was me. Good memory. Used to run the B&K 4011's back in the day, LOVED those mics, made some great pulls with 'em!
I've been out of the game for quite some time and not up to speed with current technology, so thanks for the suggestions!
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Our beloved recorder has been discontinued by Sony. :alert:
B&H shows it as so. Sony has removed from its product page.
An end of an era: one of the greatest portable recorders of all time.
:bawling:
https://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/cat-audio/cat-recorders/
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194582-REG/sony_sony_pcm_m10_portable_audio.html
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one of the greatest portable recorders of all time.
That is why I got an extra one despite my idol being dead now.
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Has sony replaced this model with a newer one? If so what did they replace it with?
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Has sony replaced this model with a newer one? If so what did they replace it with?
Not really. The only small music-focused recorder they make right now is the PCM-D100 which is far more expensive at ~$800, which IMO is far too high a price for what it does.
They still make their voice recorder line, but those don't have the recording capabilities of the M10 and similar devices.
The new Tascam DR-100 mkIII is what I'd buy if I needed something like the M10 right now.
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The power switch on my M10 is sticking. You know how you pull it down to power on the unit, then let it snap back to the middle position? Mine just stays stuck in the down position. Anyone else experience this problem, and have a fix for it?
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There's likely gunk behind the slider (pocket lint, stale beer, etc.). Try blasting it with electrical contact cleaner. Just don't use the stuff with added lubricants. :cheers:
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The new Tascam DR-100 mkIII is what I'd buy if I needed something like the M10 right now.
But new Tascam DR-100 mkIII has 2 XLR input instead of a 3.5mm plug like M10 :'(
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The new Tascam DR-100 mkIII is what I'd buy if I needed something like the M10 right now.
But new Tascam DR-100 mkIII has 2 XLR input instead of a 3.5mm plug like M10 :'(
The Tascam DR-100 mkIII also has a 3.5mm input as well as the 2 XLR inputs. The 3.5mm EXT IN jack on the top of the recorder will supply plug-in power just like the M10.
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The Tascam DR-100 mkIII also has a 3.5mm input as well as the 2 XLR inputs. The 3.5mm EXT IN jack on the top of the recorder will supply plug-in power just like the M10.
I was wrong, I'm very sorry :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks for your clarification :)
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The DR-100 mkIII is a lot larger than the M10, so it might not be a good replacement option for some. I don't have any personal experience, but the R-05 seems to be pretty popular and I know several people who think highly of the small Olympus recorders, so maybe those would be good substitutes. And maybe Sony will introduce a replacement. I think the M10 sold pretty well, so you would think they wouldn't completely abandon that market...
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... the [Roland] R-05 seems to be pretty popular and I know several people who think highly of the small Olympus recorders, so maybe those would be good substitutes.
The R-05 gets my vote for heir alternative to the M10 throne. Doesn't have the astounding battery life of the Sony but you should be good for about a day of festival taping. The R-05 might actually be slightly smaller overall and the specs are just about the same as the M10. In nearly 5 years, mine hasn't given me so much as a hiccup of trouble.
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just bought a backup. brand new red one from Adorama, $245.00, free shipping. not many left, I suspect.
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I have had 2 for a while, back in the DAT days I had the need to have 2 "just in case", and I continue to have the backup for times when I have to wear the hat, as I have a SD for stand shows....
I hope they bring something new to CES in January
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Odd experience today: My spouse/partner has a PCM-M10 which she uses for playback of pre-recorded piano accompaniments for her singing. It has worked perfectly any number of times. But today at her voice lesson when she turned it on, the settings for playback speed and "key" (= pitch) had both shifted downwards, as I confirmed this evening when I looked through the menu settings.
Thing is, until tonight when I showed her, she didn't even know how to get in to the menus or to operate them, and no one else had had access to the recorder. Those settings just "changed themselves," it seems.
Has anyone else here had this happen?
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Odd experience today: My spouse/partner has a PCM-M10 which she uses for playback of pre-recorded piano accompaniments for her singing. It has worked perfectly any number of times. But today at her voice lesson when she turned it on, the settings for playback speed and "key" (= pitch) had both shifted downwards, as I confirmed this evening when I looked through the menu settings.
Thing is, until tonight when I showed her, she didn't even know how to get in to the menus or to operate them, and no one else had had access to the recorder. Those settings just "changed themselves," it seems.
Has anyone else here had this happen?
speed control switch on the back got moved, almost guarantee it.
Happened to me once in the car listen on the way home from a show, slide off the seat, hit the floor and moved without me knowing it was even there, had my heart skip a beat thinking I broke something lol
https://d37vpt3xizf75m.cloudfront.net/api/file/hnEHkmSEO8VXSR3syAwi Page 54 has details
It's switch "28", top left as you look at the front of m10
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^And I don't think that the switch on the back affects the recording.. only playback.
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Thanks for the reply and the link to the instruction manual. Yes, the DPC switch must have been turned on by accident. But that's understandable as a result of normal handling--and I found that problem easily enough, since a rectangle was displayed on the screen that showed the setting being applied (-15%).
That's the least mysterious part of this incident; what I don't understand is how the menu settings could have gotten set the way they were. The DPC menu item has a factory default of -30%, not -15% (of course I immediately set it to 0 so that the DPC switch setting now has no audible effect). And the "Key Control" (= pitch) was set to lower the pitch a half-step, and doesn't depend on any switch. It certainly wasn't set that way before yesterday, though neither of us accessed the menu in between.
So I hope that these settings won't slip again, if that's what they did.
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Here's another quirk of the PCMM10 that I found by accident: I don't recommend anyone try is, but you can get signal/recording levels by plugging microphones into the headphone jack.
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I suspect the signal you are getting in that situation is from the internal mics.
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You know you could be right!
But for some reason I still wonder if it might have been the microphones. I was recording test tones with some church ca-11's about 1cm away from a speaker to test for a balance problem. I got the headphone and microphone input plugs mixed up and noticed my error when I saw a dramatic difference in recording levels. I can't remember if the levels were higher or lower going into the headphone jack as the microphone problem I was trying to record involved a dramatic volume difference and I was switching around different microphones and caps.
I was just happy that I didn't screw up the recorder! :facepalm:
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You know you could be right!
But for some reason I still wonder if it might have been the microphones. I was recording test tones with some church ca-11's about 1cm away from a speaker to test for a balance problem. I got the headphone and microphone input plugs mixed up and noticed my error when I saw a dramatic difference in recording levels. I can't remember if the levels were higher or lower going into the headphone jack as the microphone problem I was trying to record involved a dramatic volume difference and I was switching around different microphones and caps.
I was just happy that I didn't screw up the recorder! :facepalm:
If you have mics plugged into the headphone jack, that means there are no mics plugged into the mic or line input, so it will then default to the internal mics. It is not and would not be recording from mics plugged into the headphone jack, but it will output through those mics.
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Hello all, newbie here so forgive the basic question. I finally have a set of mics coming (CA-11 cards) that I can test my M10 with. I don't have a battery box yet, so I will be plugging them directly into the device for now. Am I right in thinking I should use the mic in port with plug in power enabled? Or should it be the line in port instead? I read that the mic in port should be used more if it's a quieter/acoustic type set (I typically go to quite loud indie/rock type shows), so it's thrown me off a little.
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Hello all, newbie here so forgive the basic question. I finally have a set of mics coming (CA-11 cards) that I can test my M10 with. I don't have a battery box yet, so I will be plugging them directly into the device for now. Am I right in thinking I should use the mic in port with plug in power enabled? Or should it be the line in port instead? I read that the mic in port should be used more if it's a quieter/acoustic type set (I typically go to quite loud indie/rock type shows), so it's thrown me off a little.
Correct: If you don't have a battery box, you need to go Mic In with plug-in power, or the mics will just sit there unpowered and not do anything.
Once you do get a battery box, you can leave PIP off and choose between the more sensitive mic port (for quieter shows) and the less sensitive line in port (for louder ones).
If you mostly go to loud indie/rock type shows, I would guess that you're going to be less than thrilled with the performance of those mics until you get a battery box to provide sufficient voltage.
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Anyone experience line out/headphone jack failure?
My M-10 will not send a signal through a cable when inserted nor turn off the built in speaker.
I took the back cover off and examined the jack, it seems secured to the board, though looks rather accessible since it is underneath another board
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I was tempted to start another Sony M-10 thread, because having four or five at the same time makes so much more sense. But, its been awhile since I logged on here, and actually was double shocked to learn two things:
(1) That Sony has discontinued the World's best pocket recorder. I have two but then again, I simply don't understand why a company would discontinue such a great little unit.
(2) Putting aside the corporate decision to discontinue it, not having a replacement for this market seems silly. Will I have to get a third unit? Jeez.
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I got me 3rd unit... ;D
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sounds like i need a 3rd too... and/or hope that all of my local friends with the deck will be my 3rd level backup lol
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I was tempted to start another Sony M-10 thread, because having four or five at the same time makes so much more sense.
:lol:
(1) That Sony has discontinued the World's best pocket recorder. I have two but then again, I simply don't understand why a company would discontinue such a great little unit.
(2) Putting aside the corporate decision to discontinue it, not having a replacement for this market seems silly. Will I have to get a third unit? Jeez.
Agreed on both points, but maybe it wasn't selling well anymore on a large scale, despite its huge popularity here. There's the PCM-D100 but that appears to be the replacement for the PCM-D50. Compared to the M10, it's also a whole lot more money for only adding a new DAC capable of DSD and 192kHz recording. It's hard to imagine that unit is flying off the shelves though, considering its high price for rather limited functionality compared to competition from other brands.
By every appearance, Sony is abandoning this market segment. In contrast, Tascam is saturating the hell out of it.
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There's the PCM-D100 but that appears to be the replacement for the PCM-D50.
I think it's more likely the replacement for their flagship PCM-D1.
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There's the PCM-D100 but that appears to be the replacement for the PCM-D50.
I think it's more likely the replacement for their flagship PCM-D1.
The D100 is the D50 replacement!!
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There's the PCM-D100 but that appears to be the replacement for the PCM-D50.
I think it's more likely the replacement for their flagship PCM-D1.
The D100 is the D50 replacement!!
I don't agree.
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The brochure on Sony's website says, "...successor to Sony's PCM-D50", but I'm not sure the distinction is all that important.
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There's the PCM-D100 but that appears to be the replacement for the PCM-D50.
I think it's more likely the replacement for their flagship PCM-D1.
The D100 is the D50 replacement!!
I don't agree.
Visual comparison backs it up. Also, several comparison pix between D50 and D100 here (http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_6c9a89b00101m2fh.html). Not that it matters; we want them to make an M10 successor.
(http://cdn.head-fi.org/0/0b/500x1000px-LL-0ba044fc_1544470bm07xhx7w9j8sa8.jpeg)
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I've owned both and the D100 is an upgraded D50! The differences are independent channel gain, takes SDHC cards, records DSD and PCM 24/192.
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I use my D100 for recording nature and soundscapes, and the main difference for me over the D50 (which I also own) is the microphones. Much improved, and more similar to the D1, so I can see where dogmusic is coming from.
The D100 might be more similar in looks to the D50, and the brochure might say it's the successor to the D50 but by then the D1 had long since been discontinued. If I owned the D50 and the D1, it's the latter I would have sold when I bought the D100.
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I've owned all three.
D50 was awfully shrilly to my ears and I sold it quickly.
M10 has been a rock solid performer over the last 10 years. I made some brilliant recordings with it. It will never leave my bag.
D100, however, steps it up in sound, but with a big cost. Very transparent, clean sounding. No exaggerated low freqs. Quieter than a whisper. It's hard for me to let go. I sold it once and I hated myself for it. Now I have one again.
D100 might offer a lot frills, but I buy these things for the sound. D100 doesn't suck in that category... :shrug:
Case in point:
https://archive.org/details/travelinmccourys2016-09-08.d100.spyder9.flac16
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My 2 cents: no mics needed, all externally connected.... but what do I know
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https://archive.org/details/travelinmccourys2016-09-08.d100.spyder9.flac16
Wow, just wow.
Not my cup of tea, musically, but can't stop listening.
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I use my D100 for recording nature and soundscapes, and the main difference for me over the D50 (which I also own) is the microphones. Much improved, and more similar to the D1, so I can see where dogmusic is coming from.
The D100 might be more similar in looks to the D50, and the brochure might say it's the successor to the D50 but by then the D1 had long since been discontinued. If I owned the D50 and the D1, it's the latter I would have sold when I bought the D100.
I agree wholeheartedly.
From the review of the D100 in Sound on Sound, comparing it to the D50:
"The designers ... added custom-designed electret mics that can handle higher SPLs (128dB) and have 50 percent larger capsules, matching those of their high-end D1 model."
There's a better visual comparison in the photo below. Once you deduct the D1's lucious VU meters, there's not much difference in size between the three units. But you can easily see how much larger the D100's (and the D1's) mics are relative to the D50.
The D100 is a very much improved recorder over the D50 (which I own and love) in more ways than just "independent channel gain, takes SDHC cards, records DSD and PCM 24/192". The same SOS review says Sony "isolated the power supply to each circuit section, for example, and selected components specifically to reduce jitter and noise, resulting in far lower harmonic distortion figures." They also considerably upgraded the preamps and AD/DA converters, gave it 32GB internal memory, 5V plug-in-power, larger screen and a unique limiter.
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Concerning the question why Sony discontinued the m10 despite its stellar reputation here, I happened to notice a press conference photo today. The reporters were using their phones to record the conference. So that could be why Sony discontinued what we regard as a terrific recorder.
And it doesn't give me hope that we will see a replacement.
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Was just able to buy a new one for $249 online @ Professional Sound Services. Hope they still have them in stock and it is able to ship.
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Concerning the question why Sony discontinued the m10 despite its stellar reputation here, I happened to notice a press conference photo today. The reporters were using their phones to record the conference. So that could be why Sony discontinued what we regard as a terrific recorder.
And it doesn't give me hope that we will see a replacement.
Again the Iphone is taking over everything.I'm glad that I still use my simple Tracfone.
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Was just able to buy a new one for $249 online @ Professional Sound Services. Hope they still have them in stock and it is able to ship.
White & Red are still available. Thanks perks. :)
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They don't actually have any in stock.
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Just checking in on this thread after a long time. Glad I got my fourth unit last year while they were still easily found.
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They don't actually have any in stock.
I ordered one yesterday and got a confirmation that my order was processed. My card was charged so I hope they have some.
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Was just able to buy a new one for $249 online @ Professional Sound Services. Hope they still have them in stock and it is able to ship.
White & Red are still available. Thanks perks. :)
yes, thank you for the info! I ordered a white yesterday.
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Pro Sound's site now states that the item is no longer available.
Conflicting responses from the site don't clarify whether the M10 was ever recently available there. We will have to see whether anyone who received a confirmation actually gets a unit. B&H confirmed my order, charged my card and then sent a "sorry, item not available" message later.
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I just got a refund toady and I was the 1st person to post that they were listed as available on the website I was h0lding out hope that they had at least 1 since I got charged but its clear now it was an error on their website.
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I'm not sure how scientific it is or if it makes a difference when I get to a show. But I tried to tune my m10 to be in unity with my V3 analog out. I ran a YouTube video of a few different frequencies giving a continuous tone. Then I manipulated the gain in the V3 and m10 until I could dial them in together. I've read that "4" is unity gain for most people's m10 but what I came up with is a shade under "3". That seems to be dead on with my V3. I guess running other gear in front of the m10 could have something to do with other people's experience but at least I'm fairly confident this pairing is nails on.
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Pro Sound's site now states that the item is no longer available.
Conflicting responses from the site don't clarify whether the M10 was ever recently available there. We will have to see whether anyone who received a confirmation actually gets a unit. B&H confirmed my order, charged my card and then sent a "sorry, item not available" message later.
Still trying to get my refund from these assholes, I've called four times.
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I'm not sure how scientific it is or if it makes a difference when I get to a show. But I tried to tune my m10 to be in unity with my V3 analog out. I ran a YouTube video of a few different frequencies giving a continuous tone. Then I manipulated the gain in the V3 and m10 until I could dial them in together. I've read that "4" is unity gain for most people's m10 but what I came up with is a shade under "3". That seems to be dead on with my V3. I guess running other gear in front of the m10 could have something to do with other people's experience but at least I'm fairly confident this pairing is nails on.
I'm not familiar with the V3; does it have variable output gain? That would make the level matching you're trying to do a bit tricky, unless you know exactly what the output level of the V3 is. Maybe that's why your level is a bit lower, if your V3 is putting out a slightly hotter signal. Here's some good info: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=165688.msg2069471#msg2069471 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=165688.msg2069471#msg2069471)
Apologies if you know this already, but there's really no such thing as "unity gain" between these two pieces of equipment. I just think of it as good gain staging.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=165688.msg2069471#msg2069471 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=165688.msg2069471#msg2069471)
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Pro Sound's site now states that the item is no longer available.
Conflicting responses from the site don't clarify whether the M10 was ever recently available there. We will have to see whether anyone who received a confirmation actually gets a unit. B&H confirmed my order, charged my card and then sent a "sorry, item not available" message later.
Still trying to get my refund from these assholes, I've called four times.
My last experience with them was bad. Never again.
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Really unfortunate to hear about the situation with Pro Sound and the not-really-there M10. I've experienced this with other, smaller vendors before who have an item for sale on their website and the order goes through, only to be contacted later to say that the item never was in stock. That was with small accessories though; not something like this.
So at this point, I think it's safe to say that any vendor claiming to have M10s for sale should be met with extreme skepticism. We don't know when Sony actually stopped manufacturing them and how many unsold units (if any) are sitting in warehouses. You'd think that electronic stocking systems would take care of alerting potential buyers of an item being out of stock though.
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I'm not sure how scientific it is or if it makes a difference when I get to a show. But I tried to tune my m10 to be in unity with my V3 analog out. I ran a YouTube video of a few different frequencies giving a continuous tone. Then I manipulated the gain in the V3 and m10 until I could dial them in together. I've read that "4" is unity gain for most people's m10 but what I came up with is a shade under "3". That seems to be dead on with my V3. I guess running other gear in front of the m10 could have something to do with other people's experience but at least I'm fairly confident this pairing is nails on.
Is the output of the M10 set to LINE?
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Pro Sound's site now states that the item is no longer available.
Conflicting responses from the site don't clarify whether the M10 was ever recently available there. We will have to see whether anyone who received a confirmation actually gets a unit. B&H confirmed my order, charged my card and then sent a "sorry, item not available" message later.
Still trying to get my refund from these assholes, I've called four times.
My last experience with them was bad. Never again.
If this is true, I will have to dispute the charge with my CC company
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it took awhile but pro sound refunded my paypal and they got it back to me . A used m10 came up at guitar center for 199.00 . i snagged it and its like new. Pro sound has a good reputation
and im sure they dont want a bad rap .i'm planning on getting a sonosax sxr4+ soon and the price they quoted is really nice. they screwed up but then s--t happens.
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Pro Sound's site now states that the item is no longer available.
Conflicting responses from the site don't clarify whether the M10 was ever recently available there. We will have to see whether anyone who received a confirmation actually gets a unit. B&H confirmed my order, charged my card and then sent a "sorry, item not available" message later.
Still trying to get my refund from these assholes, I've called four times.
My last experience with them was bad. Never again.
If this is true, I will have to dispute the charge with my CC company
When I did that they refunded my money despite the fact that the big screen TV they had mis-shipped had been received back to their inventory for 2 weeks. The TV was sent by some ground freight company rather than Fedex Ground and this place could only deliver M-F 9 to 5 and would not provide an approximate time or I could arrange for pickup M-F 9 to 5. I had waited for them once by working at home and they told me they had a truck problem and couldn't deliver but could reschedule. I told them to keep their TV at that point and by them prices had dropped so I actually paid less 6 weeks later.
After the poor service by B&H I decided they would never get my business again and seeing the debacle with the M-10's further justifies by decision.
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I'm not sure how scientific it is or if it makes a difference when I get to a show. But I tried to tune my m10 to be in unity with my V3 analog out. I ran a YouTube video of a few different frequencies giving a continuous tone. Then I manipulated the gain in the V3 and m10 until I could dial them in together. I've read that "4" is unity gain for most people's m10 but what I came up with is a shade under "3". That seems to be dead on with my V3. I guess running other gear in front of the m10 could have something to do with other people's experience but at least I'm fairly confident this pairing is nails on.
Is the output of the M10 set to LINE?
i didn't have anything going out of the M10. i went V3 > M10 Line In
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Pro Sound's site now states that the item is no longer available.
Conflicting responses from the site don't clarify whether the M10 was ever recently available there. We will have to see whether anyone who received a confirmation actually gets a unit. B&H confirmed my order, charged my card and then sent a "sorry, item not available" message later.
I thought the problem was with PROSOUND not B & H ?
Still trying to get my refund from these assholes, I've called four times.
My last experience with them was bad. Never again.
If this is true, I will have to dispute the charge with my CC company
When I did that they refunded my money despite the fact that the big screen TV they had mis-shipped had been received back to their inventory for 2 weeks. The TV was sent by some ground freight company rather than Fedex Ground and this place could only deliver M-F 9 to 5 and would not provide an approximate time or I could arrange for pickup M-F 9 to 5. I had waited for them once by working at home and they told me they had a truck problem and couldn't deliver but could reschedule. I told them to keep their TV at that point and by them prices had dropped so I actually paid less 6 weeks later.
After the poor service by B&H I decided they would never get my business again and seeing the debacle with the M-10's further justifies by decision.
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Good God this thing is becoming more of a nuisance than anything. I keep trying to give it more chances to no avail.
I have been using the M-10 as my >:D recorder and every time I go out with it I have different problems. Mostly what I presumed to be user error but now am unsure.
Last night I went out to record a hip hop gig. I have popped in what I thought was a fresh set of Eneloops AA and about half way through a 5 hour night I notice that the batteries are sinking fast. There were A LOT of DJ's in between short hip hop acts so I shut the recorder down a couple of times and just skipped the DJ crap.
Now this morning I go onto my SD card and only see 2 files but one of them is the main act so I am thinking this is OK since that is why I went in the 1st place. I plug the USB cable in and see the rest of the early files on the internal memory.
When powering the unit down why would it revert from internal to SD card? I figured it might be the other way around but I had all setting triple checked before heading out for the evening and it was SET TO RUN ON THE MEMORY CARD.
Second issue was that even though I had levels peaking around -6 I have a squared off wave form. I have yet to look at the limiter setting but is it possible that this turned on via one of my reboots? This is fu%^ing crazy. I just need a small bit bucket dammit. :angry3:
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I run the limiter on my m10 approximately 100% of the time and squared off waves at -6 dB does not sound like anything I recognize.
I just powered mine down and up a couple times, once set for memory card and once set for internal, and power cycling did not affect the memory setting on my main unit (the one where the display isn't cracked!) Note that the machine will idle for weeks without draining the batteries - I typically only power cycle when changing batteries. I also don't think I've formatted my SD card for 4-5 years, I just delete files and empty the trash on my mac.
Sounds like yours might be messed up? :-[
PS the zipper on my Sony case that I sent in the UPC code for JUST lost a tooth just now. :'(
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Seconding everything Morst said. Is it possible the squared-off waveform is clipping at some other point in the chain, not within the M-10?
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Concerning the battery drain, is the m10 set to "nimh"? Long shot, I know. Weird stuff happening to yours, my experience matches others. No issues whatsoever.
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Good God this thing is becoming more of a nuisance than anything. I keep trying to give it more chances to no avail.
I have been using the M-10 as my >:D recorder and every time I go out with it I have different problems. Mostly what I presumed to be user error but now am unsure.
Last night I went out to record a hip hop gig. I have popped in what I thought was a fresh set of Eneloops AA and about half way through a 5 hour night I notice that the batteries are sinking fast. There were A LOT of DJ's in between short hip hop acts so I shut the recorder down a couple of times and just skipped the DJ crap.
Now this morning I go onto my SD card and only see 2 files but one of them is the main act so I am thinking this is OK since that is why I went in the 1st place. I plug the USB cable in and see the rest of the early files on the internal memory.
When powering the unit down why would it revert from internal to SD card? I figured it might be the other way around but I had all setting triple checked before heading out for the evening and it was SET TO RUN ON THE MEMORY CARD.
Second issue was that even though I had levels peaking around -6 I have a squared off wave form. I have yet to look at the limiter setting but is it possible that this turned on via one of my reboots? This is fu%^ing crazy. I just need a small bit bucket dammit. :angry3:
If you want to get rid of that flaky POS I'll make the ultimate sacrifice and take it off your hands....... :smash: :smash:
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I think that I may have just found the culprit. It is brickwalling caused by the Tinybox. I am pretty sure mine was HIGH and it was a really loud rap concert. I bet I overloaded it.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=176892.msg2181045#msg2181045
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it was a really loud rap concert.
It's also possible that the concert sound itself was drastically limited and squared off! But you'd see analog fuzzies on your recording from those square waves distorting the speakers and traveling through the air...
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I would like to verify that the Mic Sens (ATT) high/low setting has no effect if you go Line In with a pre-amp on the M10.
Is this correct?
My main rig is: Church Audio CA-11 Cardioid Mics - > Church Audio Ugly 2 Preamp (Gain setting +15db) -> Line In -> Sony PCM-M10
Thank You!
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I would like to verify that the Mic Sens (ATT) high/low setting has no effect if you go Line In with a pre-amp on the M10.
Is this correct?
My main rig is: Church Audio CA-11 Cardioid Mics - > Church Audio Ugly 2 Preamp (Gain setting +15db) -> Line In -> Sony PCM-M10
Thank You!
correct, just for the internals
Set the m10 side dial at 4 to start off with
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I think that I may have just found the culprit. It is brickwalling caused by the Tinybox. I am pretty sure mine was HIGH and it was a really loud rap concert. I bet I overloaded it.
I have found that I need to run on LOW for loud, not even the loudest, concerts. I run at 24 bit to get some headroom, and crank the M10 almost all the way up generally. Only the very loudest of shows will go over on Tinybox LOW + M10 cranked for me. I had realized that I was getting distortion on too many shows using the MED setting, let alone the HIGH setting. I wish I could use MED more often but you usually don't have much of a clue how much bass will be in the mix before the music starts.
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I think that I may have just found the culprit. It is brickwalling caused by the Tinybox. I am pretty sure mine was HIGH and it was a really loud rap concert. I bet I overloaded it.
I have found that I need to run on LOW for loud, not even the loudest, concerts. I run at 24 bit to get some headroom, and crank the M10 almost all the way up generally. Only the very loudest of shows will go over on Tinybox LOW + M10 cranked for me. I had realized that I was getting distortion on too many shows using the MED setting, let alone the HIGH setting. I wish I could use MED more often but you usually don't have much of a clue how much bass will be in the mix before the music starts.
I'm pretty sure this was the problem now. I just popped open a CCM4>Tinybox>M10 recording I made at Charlotte Phish from back in 2012 and the end of the show went over too and I think that I had it set at MED. I normally record pretty quiet acoustic stuff which is why I likely had it set higher for Twista.
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I have never had to run on high with the tb.
Med sometimes but low if I want plenty of room
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I was wondering if the remote port on the Sony PCM-M10 can be used as a lanc port? The PCM-M10 comes with a remote that has a 2.5mm/TRRS connector. Lanc cables tend to be 2.5mm/TRS types from what I can tell. Does anyone know if it's possible?
Thanks
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Concerning the battery drain, is the m10 set to "nimh"? Long shot, I know. Weird stuff happening to yours, my experience matches others. No issues whatsoever.
The M10 is battery savy compared to the R09hr.I use the same rechargeable batteries and never had issues of running flat in middle of recordings.Most live recordings I do run 2 1/2 to 3/1/2 hours long.Since running time info is different from everybody here .The best thing to do is run a test of your own is let it record something not important like the radio and let the fully charged batteries run flat.The time length will be known with the full length of what was recorded.You always can delete the test file unless you heard something interesting that was recorded from the radio.
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(1) That Sony has discontinued the World's best pocket recorder. I have two but then again, I simply don't understand why a company would discontinue such a great little unit.
(2) Putting aside the corporate decision to discontinue it, not having a replacement for this market seems silly. Will I have to get a third unit? Jeez.
I very much suspect they discontinued the M10 because it was just a bit too good for something at that price, and it was disrupting Sony's sales and pricing model. If everybody was buying the M10 and attaching it to external mics, instead of shelling out the cash for Sony's premium models, Sony had to take action. Simply adding $200 to the RRP would have caused more hassle and negative publicity than anyone wanted, so the alternative was to discontinue and make sure the replacement wouldn't be useable in the same way.
Another possible theory is that Sony's Sales and Marketing department is staggeringly incompetent and didn't realise how many people used this unit. Considering how successful Sony is, I don't think that can be the case.
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Wondering how would you connect a Lunatec V3 to the Sony M10. The V3 has optical and SPDIF and XLR outs only.
TIA
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Wondering how would you connect a Lunatec V3 to the Sony M10. The V3 has optical and SPDIF and XLR outs only.
TIA
XLR > 1/8
for example http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/hosa-3.5mm-male-trs-to-dual-xlr-male-stereo-breakout-y-cable/j02163000001000?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Y7IndSJ1wIVhVmGCh23Pw8SEAQYAiABEgLC5PD_BwE&kwid=productads-adid%5E221957295833-device%5Ec-plaid%5E335491602633-sku%5EJ02163000001000@ADL4MF-adType%5EPLA
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Wondering how would you connect a Lunatec V3 to the Sony M10. The V3 has optical and SPDIF and XLR outs only.
TIA
XLR > 1/8
for example http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/hosa-3.5mm-male-trs-to-dual-xlr-male-stereo-breakout-y-cable/j02163000001000?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Y7IndSJ1wIVhVmGCh23Pw8SEAQYAiABEgLC5PD_BwE&kwid=productads-adid%5E221957295833-device%5Ec-plaid%5E335491602633-sku%5EJ02163000001000@ADL4MF-adType%5EPLA
You'll want a female XLRs > 1/8" interconnect ... not the male XLRs.
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Wondering how would you connect a Lunatec V3 to the Sony M10. The V3 has optical and SPDIF and XLR outs only.
TIA
XLR > 1/8
for example http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/hosa-3.5mm-male-trs-to-dual-xlr-male-stereo-breakout-y-cable/j02163000001000?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Y7IndSJ1wIVhVmGCh23Pw8SEAQYAiABEgLC5PD_BwE&kwid=productads-adid%5E221957295833-device%5Ec-plaid%5E335491602633-sku%5EJ02163000001000@ADL4MF-adType%5EPLA
You'll want a female XLRs > 1/8" interconnect ... not the male XLRs.
ahh true
Linked the male by mistake
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Didn't realize "they" made XLR pair > 1/8". Thanks! :coolguy:
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Hi to all!
I'm new to the game, hopefully starting with a PCM-M10 if I manage to buy one.
I've read dozens of posts in these threads, but maybe with some questions I can find answers easily.
- What is the best windshield for the PCM-M10? I can't find the Sony one anymore, but online there are for exmaple Rycote 055442, Gutmann MWS-M10, Movo WS-R10/Movo WST-R10....of course the Rycote is more expensive, is it worth the money?
- What about the batteries? Does the PCM-M10 work with the modern rechargeable lithium ones (like these SOEKAVIA Rechargeable Lithium Polymer 1.5V Battery https://i.imgur.com/9UsHGz2.jpg) or better stay with the normal Ni-Mh?
Thank you guys!
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Hi to all!
I'm new to the game, hopefully starting with a PCM-M10 if I manage to buy one.
I've read dozens of posts in these threads, but maybe with some questions I can find answers easily.
- What is the best windshield for the PCM-M10? I can't find the Sony one anymore, but online there are for exmaple Rycote 055442, Gutmann MWS-M10, Movo WS-R10/Movo WST-R10....of course the Rycote is more expensive, is it worth the money?
- What about the batteries? Does the PCM-M10 work with the modern rechargeable lithium ones (like these SOEKAVIA Rechargeable Lithium Polymer 1.5V Battery https://i.imgur.com/9UsHGz2.jpg) or better stay with the normal Ni-Mh?
Thank you guys!
As great as the M10 is, unless you're going to be recording quiet acoustic music, you're going to want some external mics. If you're planning on running internals, you're probably going to be better off with another deck. That being said, I would think the Movo's are going to give you the best bang for the buck. I use a set on my AT4041's and love 'em. I wouldn't waste the money on the Rycote when the M10's mics aren't that great to begin with.
You should be able to grab a set of Church mics or AT853's and a battery box pretty cheap. And make much better recordings. Just my $0.02.
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You are right, in my post I forgot to specify that I will use the internal mics for field recording (so quiet nature sounds)...here comes the question about the windshield :facepalm:
Thanks anyway, I'm still deciding what external mics :cheers:
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You are right, in my post I forgot to specify that I will use the internal mics for field recording (so quiet nature sounds)...here comes the question about the windshield :facepalm:
Thanks anyway, I'm still deciding what external mics :cheers:
Get some mics with Primo EM172 capsules. They are superb low noise, high sensitivity capsules popular for nature field recordings.
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Hi to all!
I'm new to the game, hopefully starting with a PCM-M10 if I manage to buy one.
...
A few thoughts if you're recording nature sounds...
The EM172 capsules are a great suggestion, and they're fairly low noise (14dBA iirc). If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can buy the capsules cheaply and make up your own external mics which will power from the M10's "plug-in-power" just fine.
Interestingly though, the M10's internal mics are themselves actually EM172 omni capsules! The problem is that they're mounted too close together to give much spatial effect. One simple DIY approach to improving matters is to make some kind of baffle to put between them. There are a few references to this online if you search. I used a block of closed cell foam (about 4" square and 1" thick), with a central slit to push over the M10. This arrangement is rather fiddly to use in earnest in the field, and you then need to fashion some kind of windshield fo fit over it all, but it helps to widen the image by reducing the correlation between the mic signals, and it makes for some interesting experiments.
For recording quiet nature you really have to keep some distance between yourself and the mics, as they really will pick up every breath & rustle of clothing. Miniature tabletop tripods are useful, especially the ones with the flexible legs which can be bent around objects, as are the various types of clamp often sold for camera mounting
If you buy one of the furry windshields made specifically for the M10, you'll be stuck with the mics as they are with no baffle. I'm not sure there's much practical difference between the brands as, when fitted, you have the option of a) having them fall off or b) covering the display! The M10 isn't made for such things in the first place and there's no proper means of attachment. Even the Rycote mini-windjammer which I used was quite useless from a practical standpoint. I found the best option was the aforementioned foam baffle with an old knitted woolen hat pulled over the whole machine! The baffle also acts as a spacer to keep the fabric away from the mics. Use a dark coloured hat (or knit your own in a camo pattern) and it's ideal for leaving in the woods...
As for batteries, don't bother with the fancy lithium ones. A couple of Eneloops, or anything 2000mAh+ will power the thing for ever.
The M10 is a great little recorder to keep with you in case an interesting soundscape comes up. Just don't leave it out in the rain like i did with mine :(
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I would certainly not purport that this is the BEST option but I believe it is an effective solution, and certainly a good value if it works for you.
I use a regular cheap foam "Clown Nose" windscreen as a cap for the m10. If you want to see the meters, you have to place it just right. I've found that the built-in omni mics are not overly wind sensitive and so this has worked for me when I've used it. They are available in many colors, mine is black.
- What is the best windshield for the PCM-M10? I can't find the Sony one anymore, but online there are for exmaple Rycote 055442, Gutmann MWS-M10, Movo WS-R10/Movo WST-R10....of course the Rycote is more expensive, is it worth the money?
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Thank you guys! :bigsmile:
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A few thoughts if you're recording nature sounds...
The EM172 capsules are a great suggestion, and they're fairly low noise (14dBA iirc). If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can buy the capsules cheaply and make up your own external mics which will power from the M10's "plug-in-power" just fine.
Interestingly though, the M10's internal mics are themselves actually EM172 omni capsules! The problem is that they're mounted too close together to give much spatial effect. One simple DIY approach to improving matters is to make some kind of baffle to put between them. There are a few references to this online if you search. I used a block of closed cell foam (about 4" square and 1" thick), with a central slit to push over the M10. This arrangement is rather fiddly to use in earnest in the field, and you then need to fashion some kind of windshield fo fit over it all, but it helps to widen the image by reducing the correlation between the mic signals, and it makes for some interesting experiments.
For recording quiet nature you really have to keep some distance between yourself and the mics, as they really will pick up every breath & rustle of clothing. Miniature tabletop tripods are useful, especially the ones with the flexible legs which can be bent around objects, as are the various types of clamp often sold for camera mounting
If you buy one of the furry windshields made specifically for the M10, you'll be stuck with the mics as they are with no baffle. I'm not sure there's much practical difference between the brands as, when fitted, you have the option of a) having them fall off or b) covering the display! The M10 isn't made for such things in the first place and there's no proper means of attachment. Even the Rycote mini-windjammer which I used was quite useless from a practical standpoint. I found the best option was the aforementioned foam baffle with an old knitted woolen hat pulled over the whole machine! The baffle also acts as a spacer to keep the fabric away from the mics. Use a dark coloured hat (or knit your own in a camo pattern) and it's ideal for leaving in the woods...
As for batteries, don't bother with the fancy lithium ones. A couple of Eneloops, or anything 2000mAh+ will power the thing for ever.
The M10 is a great little recorder to keep with you in case an interesting soundscape comes up. Just don't leave it out in the rain like i did with mine :(
Great post. I never realised the M10 capsules were the EM172's, that explains their good overall low noise performance. I've got some sheets of 1cm neoprene foam which I'm now going to experiment with to make a baffle. :)
I would still recommend making some mics with the capsules which would be very cheap, but if you're not handy with a soldering iron you can get get them made up. I'm in the UK and use this company, but I notice they deliver worldwide:
http://micbooster.com/10-clippy-em172-microphones
The advantage of having them separate is that they can give a better stereo separation. Also the recommended voltage range is 3v-10v and the M10 is going to be supplying 3v, if you can add a battery box you will get better performance and lower noise floor. I have had the external mics out in a forest all night, with my M10 and battery box in a waterproof container.
When using my M10 in the field I use the same Rycote windjammer that I use on my Sony D100. It's larger and covers the whole unit, and I hold it in place with an elastic band, but I find it performs much better than when I just try and cover the mics.
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Perhaps redundant to ask here, but does anyone know if any inside info if Sony plans to replace the M10 with anything since they discontinued it? I wouldn't mind if they made a nice recorder the size of the Olympus LS-P2, just as long as it can handle extremely loud volumes through the internal and external mics with the battery boxes.
The M10 is a great machine. Such a shame that it's a legacy product now.
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Afraid don't know but the problem is so many people use their phones as interview recorders that we may not see a replacement from Sony.
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So I picked up one of these as people seem to be dumping them on ebay lately. I've been using my DR05 and DR22WL for a couple of years and was surprised how small this really is. I've always wondered if anyone mark tracks as they record?
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Not me.
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never, everything in post
turn on, check levels, let it run
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never, everything in post
turn on, check levels, let it run
Same here. Reaper makes it very easy to split tracks. Plus, with the type of music I see, it's near impossible to gauge when one song ends and one begins until after the fact.
Enjoy the show and worry about splitting the tracks later.
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I have never ever been able to think of a reason to use this function.
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Hi guys and gals.Happy holidays .I'm glad that the M10 thread is still alive.
I dont use the mark track feature much on the M10 as much I use the split track feature on my R09HR.
More likely I never mark or split tracks on live recordings.But I do use the split track feature on radio airchecking during ads and voice recordings to control it not to record big file sizes as I dont want it to split the file on its own when it hits its limit.
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I used to use track marking on various recorders in conjunction with editing afterwards in Reaper - but these were long classical recordings for radio broadcast often on a tight schedule, so knowing where to go to in order to take out tuning, coughs, etc etc as quickly as possible was important. Saved a lot of time. So - depends what you are doing and why.
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Does anyone have a line on a decent case? Can't seem to find one on ebay or amazon.
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Does anyone have a line on a decent case? Can't seem to find one on ebay or amazon.
I just use this pouch (large size) that my AT853s came in: https://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-NEOPRENE-POUCH
Not a tight fit, but it doesn't move around much.
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:coolguy:
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I have and like the Lowepro Ridge 30. M10 fits perfectly and has room for the UBB and a cable or two plus memory cards in the flap pocket.
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Does anyone have a line on a decent case? Can't seem to find one on ebay or amazon.
I found two belt worn flip phone cases at a dollar store that are a snug fit for both the M10 and my Tinybox.
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Does anyone have a line on a decent case? Can't seem to find one on ebay or amazon.
I found two belt worn flip phone cases at a dollar store that are a snug fit for both the M10 and my Tinybox.
I've used this for years. Flap doesn't quite fold over all the way, but the M10 is in the snug and it's well protected by the thick neoprene.
https://countycomm.com/collections/pouches/products/neo-elastic-pouch (https://countycomm.com/collections/pouches/products/neo-elastic-pouch)
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Anyone know of a belt case that will fit the M10, 9100, and a small cable?
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Does anyone know how the M10's internal preamps compare to the h4n pro? I run CA14>Ugly Battery Box (no gain)>h4n pro and enjoy the pulls... I'm wondering about switching out the h4n pro for an m10 though, for convenience and size reduction.
I know the M10's better than the standard H4n's, but what about the h4n pro? (which I believe uses the same internal preamps as the h5)
Edit: Nevermind :) Did some comparisons by searching the archive for "m10 ca14 ubb", "m10 ca14" (to check out shows w/ a preamp) and then compared a few of both of those shows to my pulls- the h4n pro preamps are noticeably quieter but nothing groundbreaking, especially during the actual songs for rock shows (I had to listen to quiet portions to really get a sense of the difference)
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Greetings,
I pulled Los Lobos this past weekend, Friday at Belly Up Tavern, Sat at The Coach House. As per usual I packed up the gear and stuck my M10 in my pocket to review on the drive home. Load car, plug M10 in and turn it on...nada, zilch, nothing, it won't turn on. Panic sets in...was it actually on when I opened the bag...yes, was the time clock running...yes. So I pulled over and stuffed fresh batteries in...same result, nothing, just a blank screen. Well not much to see at midnight on a dark street so I drive home, pull the card and all the files were there, no issues, whew!
Still bummed that it's gone.
Have any of you experienced this?
Thanks,
Strat
RIP Sony PCM-M10 - 2013- 2019
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I pulled Los Lobos this past weekend, Friday at Belly Up Tavern, Sat at The Coach House. As per usual I packed up the gear and stuck my M10 in my pocket to review on the drive home. Load car, plug M10 in and turn it on...nada, zilch, nothing, it won't turn on. Panic sets in...was it actually on when I opened the bag...yes, was the time clock running...yes. So I pulled over and stuffed fresh batteries in...same result, nothing, just a blank screen. Well not much to see at midnight on a dark street so I drive home, pull the card and all the files were there, no issues, whew!
Could it possibly be the power switch? I have one M10 with the opposite problem: It refuses to turn off when I flip the power/hold switch, so if I want to shut it off I need to temporarily remove the batteries. If yours isn't recognizing the switch when you tried to turn it on, that could be producing this result.
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Greetings,
I pulled Los Lobos this past weekend, Friday at Belly Up Tavern, Sat at The Coach House. As per usual I packed up the gear and stuck my M10 in my pocket to review on the drive home. Load car, plug M10 in and turn it on...nada, zilch, nothing, it won't turn on. Panic sets in...was it actually on when I opened the bag...yes, was the time clock running...yes. So I pulled over and stuffed fresh batteries in...same result, nothing, just a blank screen. Well not much to see at midnight on a dark street so I drive home, pull the card and all the files were there, no issues, whew!
Still bummed that it's gone.
Have any of you experienced this?
Thanks,
Strat
RIP Sony PCM-M10 - 2013- 2019
Could it be that the unit is coming on and just the display is shot? I guess that's as bad as having a dead deck
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FWIW, my M10 wont save the time from power up to power up.... even with fresh batteries left in the unit for an hour or two.
Are these units dying a slow death after many years of use and abuse?
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try plugging it in with the wall wart. Might have an internal battery that holds the clock and the settings. Just a guess ???
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Thanks for the replies,
Yes, I thought about the switch and also the display. I did try the wall wart last night...same result, nada. In my mind I always worried that it would be either the Line In jack or the switch...I figured one of these would go first as they get the most action at a gig. I’m guessing I got over a 100 shows on that deck at about 500-600 hours. Seems kinda light, oh well. I still have one left, I will make that the MK4 deck and use the DR2d for the AT853 backup rig. I guess I’ll look into maybe a Roland 07 or the Sony A10...??
Thanks again for the replies.
Strat
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try plugging it in with the wall wart. Might have an internal battery that holds the clock and the settings. Just a guess ???
Its been a while, did these come with wall-warts?
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FWIW, my M10 wont save the time from power up to power up.... even with fresh batteries left in the unit for an hour or two.
Are these units dying a slow death after many years of use and abuse?
I would recommend leaving it on for a while, not force it off. I seem to remember there is an internal battery that loses it' charge after a while in the off position.
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I would recommend leaving it on for a while, not force it off. I seem to remember there is an internal battery that loses it' charge after a while in the off position.
That I have not tried, thanks, will give it a go over the weekend!
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try plugging it in with the wall wart. Might have an internal battery that holds the clock and the settings. Just a guess ???
Its been a while, did these come with wall-warts?
mine did
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try plugging it in with the wall wart. Might have an internal battery that holds the clock and the settings. Just a guess ???
Its been a while, did these come with wall-warts?
Yep, 3v
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mine did
Yep, 3v
I will have to see if I can find the box now LOL
Thanks
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FWIW, my M10 wont save the time from power up to power up.... even with fresh batteries left in the unit for an hour or two.
Are these units dying a slow death after many years of use and abuse?
I would recommend leaving it on for a while, not force it off. I seem to remember there is an internal battery that loses it' charge after a while in the off position.
True that. I never turn mine off. I let them both go to sleep mode indefinitely while I store them. That said, I use them often enough that they never seem to sleep for more than a week or two at a time.
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Please HELP: My M-10 will not turn on. What is the go to repair option?
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mine did
Yep, 3v
I will have to see if I can find the box now LOL
Thanks
mine got stolen i know i have the box and manuals and prob have the wallwart. if someone can take a pic of it ill look for it
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I would recommend leaving it on for a while, not force it off. I seem to remember there is an internal battery that loses it' charge after a while in the off position.
FWIW, I put 2 new NiMh batteries into mine, turned it on, and periodically hit the stop button to see if it is still on.... 24 hours later, pulled the batteries, waited a minute, put them back in, and tht clock was still set.
I am going to leave it like this for a few days and see what happens.
But thank you for the help!
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try plugging it in with the wall wart. Might have an internal battery that holds the clock and the settings. Just a guess ???
it 100% has an internal battery that does the date and time
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Could it be that the unit is coming on and just the display is shot? I guess that's as bad as having a dead deck
Nope, these things work ok without the display. You can tell peak levels with the red and green peak lights, and if you have a second M10 handy, then you can still operate the menus blind. I have one with a cracked screen that only shows backlight and I've made good recordings on it regularly since it broke. I bought the replacement part, but lost it, and now can't get another!! d'oh!
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try plugging it in with the wall wart. Might have an internal battery that holds the clock and the settings. Just a guess ???
it 100% has an internal battery that does the date and time
just over 1.5 weeks with 2 AA batteries in, powered on (though the display kept timing out) and the internal battery seems to be good again... taking out the batteries didnt wipe the date and time :)
Thanks
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Here's a quick M10 question.
Saw this on a recent tool tape:
Source: Schoeps MK41 > nbob KCY > babyNbox > Sony PCM-M10 (Oade preamp mod) (24bit, 96kHz)
When did Oade mod these, and what mod was it? Is there any way to get the noise floor down as low as the Concert modded PMD-620?
Thanks!
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Here's a quick M10 question.
Saw this on a recent tool tape:
Source: Schoeps MK41 > nbob KCY > babyNbox > Sony PCM-M10 (Oade preamp mod) (24bit, 96kHz)
When did Oade mod these, and what mod was it? Is there any way to get the noise floor down as low as the Concert modded PMD-620?
Thanks!
I saw that too and I am very interested. Wondering when they do that could they also fix my hold button? It's really sticky and sometimes will stay in the power off position. Always wanted to fix that. Anyone know how?
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I used to tape the switches on the back because they were TOO easy to move!
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I used to tape the switches on the back because they were TOO easy to move!
I actually just super glued those into place. I have never had to change those settings.
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I saw that too and I am very interested. Wondering when they do that could they also fix my hold button? It's really sticky and sometimes will stay in the power off position. Always wanted to fix that. Anyone know how?
https://www.oade.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=185
The Sony PCM-M10 Audiophile MOD bypasses the input selector IC and replaces the preamp chip which limits dynamic range to 80dB. The preamp is upgraded using a state of the art op amp with a dynamic range of 127dB. The sound quality is also improved, the upgrade removes a hazy quality allowing the signal to sound more present. This upgrade removes the built in microphones.
Price includes return shipping and insurance in the 48 states.
My input jack is making crackle sounds, I wonder if this is worth it or if I just buy a new A10 or D10.... thoughts?
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https://www.oade.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=185
The Sony PCM-M10 Audiophile MOD bypasses the input selector IC and replaces the preamp chip which limits dynamic range to 80dB. The preamp is upgraded using a state of the art op amp with a dynamic range of 127dB. The sound quality is also improved, the upgrade removes a hazy quality allowing the signal to sound more present. This upgrade removes the built in microphones.
Price includes return shipping and insurance in the 48 states.
My input jack is making crackle sounds, I wonder if this is worth it or if I just buy a new A10 or D10.... thoughts?
They could replace the input jack while its open for the mod, shouldn't be too expensive. I always wanted something locking like this:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=166841.0;all
but that seems a little overboard.
I guess the basic question is whether you need the plug-in power or are running line in. I can't tell from that description whether it will affect both mic and line inputs. The PMD620 description is much more clear.
https://www.oade.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=91&zenid=h146a03k3kg5rk6ihaqhtlvmh0
"The PMD 620MKII Concert rebuilds the PMD 620MKII mic preamp with a low noise, very low distortion and high slew rate op amp that dramatically enhances detail and clarity while lowering noise and audible distortions. This upgrade also improves the line input circuit. The built in mics are removed to maximize microphone input quality, all other features remain intact. Concert MOD parts are selected by ear to optimize the PMD 620MKII for recording music. "
I guess the next question is whether the 2 modifications produce a similar low noise floor and clarity, or if one is better than the other! I really REALLY miss the input dial on the m10 whenever I use the PMD620. You have to be really familiar with the SPL level of a setting when taping on the fly with the 620 because of its input settings, and with the M10, you just turn the dial till it sounds right!
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I am nBox to Line-In, so I dont care how to get around the input jack or a repair.... as long as I can get the nbox output captured
I only have used the mics once, when i could not get anything bigger past security (small venue and good security this one time)... the mics are basically useless to me
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I used to tape the switches on the back because they were TOO easy to move!
I actually just super glued those into place. I have never had to change those settings.
Better hope the switches don’t get dirty and need to be exercised?! I use tape to cover them so they don’t move.
My input jack is making crackle sounds, I wonder if this is worth it or if I just buy a new A10 or D10.... thoughts?
Get some spray contact cleaner, remove batteries, spray all over a mini plug, then plug in & remove twenty times fast.
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^
1. https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITLiquid-squeeze-tube-100-solution/dp/B0015A5AAY/ (https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITLiquid-squeeze-tube-100-solution/dp/B0015A5AAY/)
2. https://www.gumbrand.com/between-teeth-cleaning/interdental-brushes.html (https://www.gumbrand.com/between-teeth-cleaning/interdental-brushes.html)
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Get some spray contact cleaner, remove batteries, spray all over a mini plug, then plug in & remove twenty times fast.[/font]
What if this leaks into the unit, anything it will hurt?
I almost believe its cracked/loose, not just dirty
^
1. https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITLiquid-squeeze-tube-100-solution/dp/B0015A5AAY/ (https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITLiquid-squeeze-tube-100-solution/dp/B0015A5AAY/)
2. https://www.gumbrand.com/between-teeth-cleaning/interdental-brushes.html (https://www.gumbrand.com/between-teeth-cleaning/interdental-brushes.html)
Thanks for the links!
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There's been a problem with my M10 powering off when I pressed RECORD, so I began using the remote. Yesterday it turned off pressing RECORD on the remote.
I had been suspecting it was a memory card problem because the cards weren't seated properly when inserted, one corner was higher.
Today the M10 would only stay powered on when there was NO card in the slot.
So I stuck a small piece of cardboard in-between the top of the card slot (with a card inside) and the card slot cover, and the M10 turned on and so far is staying on even when using operation buttons.
Probably the spring in the card slot has weakened -- my M10 is ten years old, and I've usually taken the card out when transferring files to my computer for faster download -- so it's had a lot of use.
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Use the usb to transfer. Leave the card alone!
(https://pixel.nymag.com/imgs/daily/selectall/2017/09/11/11-leave-britney-alone.w330.h330.jpg)
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Use the usb to transfer. Leave the card alone!
(https://pixel.nymag.com/imgs/daily/selectall/2017/09/11/11-leave-britney-alone.w330.h330.jpg)
Probably do that now -- but its slowliness is killing me!
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I spose its a USB connection thing, or are you transferring a lot of data? When I transfer, via usb, it seems to be just as fast as it would be to take the card out, put it in a reader and pull it off of there. Another thing I do is copy the files as opposed to actually moving them. I think that's a little faster and you can always delete them from the m10 pretty quickly. I also never delete a recording off of any recorder until it is copied both to my pc and to a cdr or dvdr. That's another way of insuring that I don't completely delete something that I want to keep,which I've done in the past way too often.
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I spose its a USB connection thing, or are you transferring a lot of data? When I transfer, via usb, it seems to be just as fast as it would be to take the card out, put it in a reader and pull it off of there. Another thing I do is copy the files as opposed to actually moving them. I think that's a little faster and you can always delete them from the m10 pretty quickly. I also never delete a recording off of any recorder until it is copied both to my pc and to a cdr or dvdr. That's another way of insuring that I don't completely delete something that I want to keep,which I've done in the past way too often.
It is a USB thing and I do sometimes transfer a lot of data at once. The M10 is in a stationary set-up recording a piano, and sometimes the files don't get downloaded for a long time. So it ends up being a multi-GB download when it does happen. Taking it out of the M10 and inserting it directly into the card slot of my computer makes for a very fast transfer/copy to a connected hard drive.
I agree about backups. These files don't get deleted until they've been copied to two separate external hard drives and then a disc backup onto DVD-R or BD-R.
I hope this cardboard thing works. The M10 is a gem and I'd hate to end up only being able to record to the internal memory.
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a suggestion there would be to have a laptop right there as part of the setup, it would make it a lot more convenient to transfer and then you wouldn't have to pull the card.
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a suggestion there would be to have a laptop right there as part of the setup, it would make it a lot more convenient to transfer and then you wouldn't have to pull the card.
That's true. I might try that. Thanks!
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interesting thing last night. I recorded 3 bands m10 showed them as
190526_01,
190526_02,
190526_03
must have ran out of room in whatever folder they were in (I am using the m10 as a mp3 player these days, too), so I ended up with another file in some other folder titled
190526_01 again....
If I rename it as 190526_04, seems to be the order of the show. Is this a typical thing for the m10? I've never had it happen before, so I am a little concerned. And, when it automatically creates a new file like that, is it seamless to the other one that was running at the time?
Mysterious, at least to me. Input appreciated.
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interesting thing last night. I recorded 3 bands m10 showed them as
190526_01,
190526_02,
190526_03
must have ran out of room in whatever folder they were in (I am using the m10 as a mp3 player these days, too), so I ended up with another file in some other folder titled
190526_01 again....
If I rename it as 190526_04, seems to be the order of the show. Is this a typical thing for the m10? I've never had it happen before, so I am a little concerned. And, when it automatically creates a new file like that, is it seamless to the other one that was running at the time?
Mysterious, at least to me. Input appreciated.
That happens to me when I run out of space on my card and the m10 switches to internal memory (or vice versa). The date will be the same but the file numbers begin again at _01.
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I appended the 2 files and it was a seamless match. Gotta be careful though, with 2 files with the same name. SONY! :smash:
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I appended the 2 files and it was a seamless match. Gotta be careful though, with 2 files with the same name. SONY! :smash:
You sure do have to be careful!
I would go ahead and rename it with the _4, but MAKE DOUBLE DAMN SURE YOU ARE DOING IT RIGHT and HAVE A BACKUP COPY THAT YOU DON'T DELETE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE.
Here is my Sony-naming file [near] loss story:
I have two M10's, and before I had a 4-channel recorder, they were my go-to recorders for both SBD & AUD sources. Well, one day, I though I'd be all smart, and start and stop both machines at the "exact same time." Of course, I got two files named the same, with file sizes within a megabyte of each other, and file lengths within a second.
I'm pretty sure that this is when/why I started keeping master files in separate sub-folders, sorted by recording deck!!!!
:facepalm:
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Sucks that these war horses are all falling by the wayside in their old age. I guess Sony planted a time bomb so that they could sell more A10s
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Has anyone else had any issues with the mic input and Neutrik plugs?
I run CA14 > CA-UBB > M10. The UBB has a right-angle Neutrik output. After plugging in, if the plug is pressed inward slightly (toward the unit), the right channel will drop out completely. If I release pressure, the channel comes back. It's less than ideal for the way I roll and has ruined a couple of recordings.
I have made sure that everything is very clean, so I'm confident that's not it.
I did plug the CA14 directly in to the mic input and gentle twisting and pushing toward the unit does not cause any issues (it's a straight REAN plug), so it's most likely not the M10.
I'm open to any ideas for further testing and/or possible causes.
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Has anyone else had any issues with the mic input and Neutrik plugs?
I run CA14 > CA-UBB > M10. The UBB has a right-angle Neutrik output. After plugging in, if the plug is pressed inward slightly (toward the unit), the right channel will drop out completely. If I release pressure, the channel comes back. It's less than ideal for the way I roll and has ruined a couple of recordings.
I have made sure that everything is very clean, so I'm confident that's not it.
I did plug the CA14 directly in to the mic input and gentle twisting and pushing toward the unit does not cause any issues (it's a straight REAN plug), so it's most likely not the M10.
I'm open to any ideas for further testing and/or possible causes.
If I use a right angle plug with any of my recordes I tape a piece of strong foamed plastic underneath the horizontal part of the plug. Just to avoid the stress to the cable/plug/jack you described above.
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That's a good idea, thanks.
I took the plug apart and looked at it with a magnifier. The solder joints look poorly done; I can see a crack in the solder joint for the ring (right channel) connection. I have another BB that works fine, so it's definitely not the M10.
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To relieve the strain, you might want to run a short cable (non right angle at one or both ends) between the M10's input and the plug from the UBB.
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Also a great idea. My kid, who is studying electrical engineering, is going to bring his soldering setup over to help me out. I'm going to use a brand new plug.
Since this has nothing to do with the M10, back to the regularly scheduled programming!
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So I just noticed that when recording to the SD card, my unit will start glitching, jumping and skipping recording when it gets near the end limit of the first recording file and also at the start of the second file. It's like trying to listen to a scratched CD where it jumps and stops playing for a beat. Any idea if this is a recorder or card issue? (SanDisk Extreme 16 gig)
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So I just noticed that when recording to the SD card, my unit will start glitching, jumping and skipping recording when it gets near the end limit of the first recording file and also at the start of the second file. It's like trying to listen to a scratched CD where it jumps and stops playing for a beat. Any idea if this is a recorder or card issue? (SanDisk Extreme 16 gig)
Possibly reformat the card to see if that will alleviate the issue?
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So I just noticed that when recording to the SD card, my unit will start glitching, jumping and skipping recording when it gets near the end limit of the first recording file and also at the start of the second file. It's like trying to listen to a scratched CD where it jumps and stops playing for a beat. Any idea if this is a recorder or card issue? (SanDisk Extreme 16 gig)
Is the card from a sealed package from a known reputable SanDisk dealer in your country?
Try the internal memory if formatting the card doesn't help. If it glitches on the internal, then it's probably not the SanDisk.
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So I just noticed that when recording to the SD card, my unit will start glitching, jumping and skipping recording when it gets near the end limit of the first recording file and also at the start of the second file. It's like trying to listen to a scratched CD where it jumps and stops playing for a beat. Any idea if this is a recorder or card issue? (SanDisk Extreme 16 gig)
Is the card from a sealed package from a known reputable SanDisk dealer in your country?
Try the internal memory if formatting the card doesn't help. If it glitches on the internal, then it's probably not the SanDisk.
Not an issue running on internal, only be SD card issue. Card was bought from Bestbuy and it seems the problem only happens after I put the card in a reader and copy the files to my computer. Formatted using the recorder and it looks to have fixed the issue. Ran a test by putting mics in front of my stereo speaker and no problem. Will still probably use internal memory first just to be safe.
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Not an issue running on internal, only be SD card issue. Card was bought from Bestbuy and it seems the problem only happens after I put the card in a reader and copy the files to my computer. Formatted using the recorder and it looks to have fixed the issue. Ran a test by putting mics in front of my stereo speaker and no problem. Will still probably use internal memory first just to be safe.
OK- if other cards exhibit the same issue, then I would suspect your card reader, or even that your computer OS has a worm or virus and is copying something weird to cards!?
But it could certainly be the card itself, or (less likely based on the latest info) dirty contacts on the internal card socket.
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I came across this here and was wondering if it's true that phantom power devices affect the quality/noise you get? : http://thesoundmyheadmakes.blogspot.com/2011/03/quickie-shootout-744t-vs-pcm-d50-with.html
I currently have a Juicedlink to use with my Sony PCM-M10 when I need XLR inputs, but is a Sony XLR1 / Denecke PS-2 actually better?
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I came across this here and was wondering if it's true that phantom power devices affect the quality/noise you get? : http://thesoundmyheadmakes.blogspot.com/2011/03/quickie-shootout-744t-vs-pcm-d50-with.html (http://thesoundmyheadmakes.blogspot.com/2011/03/quickie-shootout-744t-vs-pcm-d50-with.html)
I currently have a Juicedlink to use with my Sony PCM-M10 when I need XLR inputs, but is a Sony XLR1 / Denecke PS-2 actually better?
It's certainly possible to get a device which supplies phantom power and also affects the audio. That article from 2011 does seem to imply that build quality seems to affect sound quality. The "eye opening" weblink inside the link you shared here is to a dealer which chose not to carry the ART device because of its poor build quality. I've never heard of the Juicedlink so I can't comment on that.
When I ran my mics into the M10, I used the Beyer MV100 preamp, which provided a minimum of +20dB gain, and has XLR inputs, and RCA and mini outs, running off two 9-volt cells.
Manual here https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=103430.0 (https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=103430.0)
edit to mention that I've seen MV100's go for less than half of my original purchase price recently.
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I had a venue employee either attempt to steal my M10 and AT mic package where I had it setup in an empty balcony for a show. Or they just picked it up not knowing what it was and put it away in an upper room in the theater. My friend that works at the theater discovered it almost a week after it went missing. When I went to pick it up it the control lock was still engaged. The recorded had filled up the the available memory and stopped recording. But the device was still powered on after a week. Now that is a hell of a battery life.
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...But the device was still powered on after a week. Now that is a hell of a battery life.
I don't shut mine off except when changing batteries . They go to sleep about 20 min after activity stops. I got into the habit of leaving them on, after hearing that they'd lose their clock setting if they weren't powered up at ALL for months on end. (see the first couple threads!?!)
The batteries hardly drain when they're powered "on" but not doing anything. Months.
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...But the device was still powered on after a week. Now that is a hell of a battery life.
I don't shut mine off except when changing batteries . They go to sleep about 20 min after activity stops. I got into the habit of leaving them on, after hearing that they'd lose their clock setting if they weren't powered up at ALL for months on end. (see the first couple threads!?!)
The batteries hardly drain when they're powered "on" but not doing anything. Months.
I did not know that! I sold my Sony PCM-M10's because of the internal clock not keeping "time", as I thought it was messing up. I only tape 3 or 4 times a year, so it'll sit without batteries for months between uses. Makes perfect sense. So I sold my precious M10's prematurely! DOAH!!
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...But the device was still powered on after a week. Now that is a hell of a battery life.
I don't shut mine off except when changing batteries . They go to sleep about 20 min after activity stops. I got into the habit of leaving them on, after hearing that they'd lose their clock setting if they weren't powered up at ALL for months on end. (see the first couple threads!?!)
The batteries hardly drain when they're powered "on" but not doing anything. Months.
I did not know that! I sold my Sony PCM-M10's because of the internal clock not keeping "time", as I thought it was messing up. I only tape 3 or 4 times a year, so it'll sit without batteries for months between uses. Makes perfect sense. So I sold my precious M10's prematurely! DOAH!!
YES!
But you can still record regardless of it asking for setting the clock,just hit record and add the date in post.
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The channels on my M10 are no longer recording at the same level. The right channel of the mic input is about 12dB lower than the left. The line input is only about 1dB off. This is a recent development--and has gotten worse over the last couple of recordings. No drops or other obvious sources of damage. My searches of the archives didn't pull up any relevant posts. (I probably didn't search well enough.)
It's well out of warranty, so I assume sending it to Sony (or other tech) for repair would be cost prohibitive. Anything I can do myself to fix?
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Call Sony service, and just check to see if they think it's still under warranty?
Otherwise find out their shop rates for such repairs, as you might find them favorable to some third party shops.
https://pro.sony/ue_US/support-services/services-support#MEAE800131ServiceCenterRepairProcedures-services-support (https://pro.sony/ue_US/support-services/services-support#MEAE800131ServiceCenterRepairProcedures-services-support)
sounds like it might be a leaky capacitor? Or perhaps clean it with spray cleaner and see if it's just lint?
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I used one of my M10's for the first time in a couple years, go figure.
Clock must have run out.
Files are named Z0000001.WAV, Z0000002.WAV etc and the date/time is an hour before midnight on Newyears 2008-2009.
Too bad this one has a cracked display.
I use my other one as a guide when I'm pressing buttons.
Resetting the clock should be fun!??!
...But the device was still powered on after a week. Now that is a hell of a battery life.
I don't shut mine off except when changing batteries . They go to sleep about 20 min after activity stops. I got into the habit of leaving them on, after hearing that they'd lose their clock setting if they weren't powered up at ALL for months on end. (see the first couple threads!?!)
The batteries hardly drain when they're powered "on" but not doing anything. Months.
I did not know that! I sold my Sony PCM-M10's because of the internal clock not keeping "time", as I thought it was messing up. I only tape 3 or 4 times a year, so it'll sit without batteries for months between uses. Makes perfect sense. So I sold my precious M10's prematurely! DOAH!!
YES!
But you can still record regardless of it asking for setting the clock,just hit record and add the date in post.
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Ok here’s a tricky one.
I didn’t want to start a new topic because we were just talking about modded m10 recorders a page ago.
I have an m10 I sent to Doug to do a acm mod on.
I was pretty sure I had checked everything out and it was solid and everything worked as it should, but at the show, mic in was giving me left channel only or reading very little right channel using mic in. I pulled the cable out and switched to line in and had to go all the way to volume at 10 to get a decent level and then when the band started the levels looked fine but they would suddenly peak to full over and I would ease them down to reasonable— levels about 5– and they would look okay until suddenly they’d look way too low in a reasonably loud section so I’d ease them up and they’d jump to way over again.
This went on all night until I checked at the end applauding and realized I’d set the mic sens to high.
I hadn’t done that since the DAT days!
So my question is:
What the hell, man!
No, wait. My question is:
Is this something caused by the high sense setting?
Is there something I’ve overlooked, posting the sub menu?
(The recording setting was manual not auto)
Still, I don’t understand the physics of how this recording went wrong.
It was to the built in memory and not the card.
What I’m wondering is if I can trust the deck as my only deck for more shows if I change some settings or if I have to send it in for diagnostics? With this mod I’d expected to be able to use mic in for more gain, but never really need it at rock shows, but eventually I will.
Here is the tape, in all its messy glory:
https://wetransfer.com/downloads/96c96281a7204ec398de47ab91e1860020211109030858/82ded2d96610b28b1c9ad18f50fd139120211109030916/6a4bc5
The weird skipping between loud and quiet and the super quiet portions have me confused.
Thanks for any interest in discussing!
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^ The high sensitivity setting only applies to the mic input, so, if that was the issue, switching to the line input should have fixed it.
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Thanks!
Well now my fear of having modded a lemon is overwhelming.
If anyone has time to check out the file I would appreciate it.
I’ll spend some of today trying new wires and deoxit on the volume knob but I was really hoping it was going to be a mic sens issue.
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Tell us about the mics, cables, and other items in the signal chain that night. Have you checked them out?
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Did you happen to switch from manual to auto gain? (Or is this disabled by the Oade mod?) The swings in gain sound like when I've bumped the Manual/Auto gain switch.
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Well I shouldn’t have switched that. I found that the new mod makes the volume really sensitive and that the deck really likes a snug plug for the input.
I replaced all the cables and cleaned all the points and it seems to be tamed and working properly now.
Relief and Samples to come.
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Well I shouldn’t have switched that. I found that the new mod makes the volume really sensitive and that the deck really likes a snug plug for the input.
I replaced all the cables and cleaned all the points and it seems to be tamed and working properly now.
Relief and Samples to come.
Good news, great to hear that!
:cheers:
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Concur!!! How is the mod otherwise?
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My warm mod m10 just arrived, haven’t been able to run yet.
I did ask Doug about lo sens/high sens and he said to stick with lo sens. He also said that no attenuation should be needed running mic in.
He also said he’s working on a potential additional mod that would supply 9v. The extra electronics would inhabit one of the former mic spaces. So you could run caps>kcy>adapter cable>m10. That would be way cool, for mics that can run off 9v. Nothing definite yet.
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The 9V mod would be interesting; please keep us updated!
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will do!
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I think somewhere I stupidly said the m10 didn’t have a hi/lo sens setting. It does, on the back. Sorry. :facepalm:
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Concur!!! How is the mod otherwise?
OK.
Finally got this thing under control, but it took some expensive 1/8" cables that snapped in tight and aren't as long as I would have liked them to be. As far as I can tell, that was the problem I'd had. The braided cables I like and have used many times in the past with the PMD620 didn't lock in tight to the M10, and the volume with the ACM mod was VERY sensitive. I'm going with it being the hi-Sens switch used at Dr. Dog and now I'm using the Low-Sens setting taped into place.
Go to this thread for some successful samples where you can compare MK5 (cards) > tiny box > ACM M10 and dpa4061 > caUGLY > Korg MR1
I have really got the dpa4061 taping down, but the acm M10 is probably a more interesting soundstage, but it needs a wider cap than the dpa4061.
https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=198429.0
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Just joined the M10 crew earlier this month.
Ran to the internal memory with 853 subcards > soundpro box. Next using it as a bit box from the out of my 680 during Phish OB this weekend.
Any approved memory card list floating around before I start scouring the site?
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Just joined the M10 crew earlier this month.
Ran to the internal memory with 853 subcards > soundpro box. Next using it as a bit box from the out of my 680 during Phish OB this weekend.
Any approved memory card list floating around before I start scouring the site?
https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=147879.0
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Concur!!! How is the mod otherwise?
OK.
Finally got this thing under control, but it took some expensive 1/8" cables that snapped in tight and aren't as long as I would have liked them to be. As far as I can tell, that was the problem I'd had. The braided cables I like and have used many times in the past with the PMD620 didn't lock in tight to the M10, and the volume with the ACM mod was VERY sensitive. I'm going with it being the hi-Sens switch used at Dr. Dog and now I'm using the Low-Sens setting taped into place.
Go to this thread for some successful samples where you can compare MK5 (cards) > tiny box > ACM M10 and dpa4061 > caUGLY > Korg MR1
I have really got the dpa4061 taping down, but the acm M10 is probably a more interesting soundstage, but it needs a wider cap than the dpa4061.
https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=198429.0
I've used an Oade ACM modded M-10 in the field twice now using an SP 9 volt battery box, mic-in, low sensitivity, gain wheel set at 3 or 4 depending on how loud the band was. Worked like a charm. In each case it was set and forget.
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Just joined the M10 crew earlier this month.
Ran to the internal memory with 853 subcards > soundpro box. Next using it as a bit box from the out of my 680 during Phish OB this weekend.
Any approved memory card list floating around before I start scouring the site?
A bit box is a deck that takes a digital signal from a preamp or other device, hence the name bit box. It adds nothing, it just takes and holds the bits from a non-recorder. The Sony M10 does not take a digital signal, it only takes an analog signal, so it cannot be used as a bit box.
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Just joined the M10 crew earlier this month.
Ran to the internal memory with 853 subcards > soundpro box. Next using it as a bit box from the out of my 680 during Phish OB this weekend.
Any approved memory card list floating around before I start scouring the site?
A bit box is a deck that takes a digital signal from a preamp or other device, hence the name bit box. It adds nothing, it just takes and holds the bits from a non-recorder. The Sony M10 does not take a digital signal, it only takes an analog signal, so it cannot be used as a bit box.
I see. I figured people were using small decks from the out of their large deck and calling it a "bit box". My bad. Hashtag newbie mistake.
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Just joined the M10 crew earlier this month.
Ran to the internal memory with 853 subcards > soundpro box. Next using it as a bit box from the out of my 680 during Phish OB this weekend.
Any approved memory card list floating around before I start scouring the site?
A bit box is a deck that takes a digital signal from a preamp or other device, hence the name bit box. It adds nothing, it just takes and holds the bits from a non-recorder. The Sony M10 does not take a digital signal, it only takes an analog signal, so it cannot be used as a bit box.
Hey dallman.. hope you are well!!
For the sake of fun 8)… there are some recorders that have digital outputs that can feed another recorder’s digital input.
But the M10 is not one of them.
Miss ya man.. :guitarist:
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Just joined the M10 crew earlier this month.
Ran to the internal memory with 853 subcards > soundpro box. Next using it as a bit box from the out of my 680 during Phish OB this weekend.
Any approved memory card list floating around before I start scouring the site?
A bit box is a deck that takes a digital signal from a preamp or other device, hence the name bit box. It adds nothing, it just takes and holds the bits from a non-recorder. The Sony M10 does not take a digital signal, it only takes an analog signal, so it cannot be used as a bit box.
I see. I figured people were using small decks from the out of their large deck and calling it a "bit box". My bad. Hashtag newbie mistake.
That's ok, I'm still learning and I made my first recording in 1971. :bigsmile:
Yug,
I sure hope to see you this summer as things open up again!! I miss you too.
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Today i decided to disassemble one of my M10 to clean it of dust.
This is its microphone capsule.
(https://abload.de/img/292583182_515871875082fkc3.jpg)
Looks something wellknown, isn't so?
(https://img.audiofanzine.com/images/u/product/normal/primo-em-172-219539.jpg)
Yes!
Its PRIMO EM 172 capsule - M10 internal microphones.
https://fr.audiofanzine.com/capsule-microphone/primo/em-172/
(https://medias.audiofanzine.com/images/normal/primo-em-172-894514.jpg)
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Makes me wonder what mics the other Sony recorders have - A10, D10, D100, D50.
Does your recorder suffer from needing to reset the time/date on each power on? If so, have you seen some kind of internal battery in the unit?
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I have two M10. One i bought as new a lot of years ago - it works excellent.
The second i bought used - is suffers from needing to set the time/date each time when i power it on.
I bought new internal batteries and now awaiting for mail. Will try to fix this problem.
By the way - one day i was need to record 4 days non-stop and connected an external power to recorder. About 100 hours of non-stop recording.
After that the date/time problem disappeared for 2 days. Later problem returned back...
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I have two M10. One i bought as new a lot of years ago - it works excellent.
The second i bought used - is suffers from needing to set the time/date each time when i power it on.
I bought new internal batteries and now awaiting for mail. Will try to fix this problem.
By the way - one day i was need to record 4 days non-stop and connected an external power to recorder. About 100 hours of non-stop recording.
After that the date/time problem disappeared for 2 days. Later problem returned back...
I've only seen this happen when the AA batteries are removed for more than a few days.
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> I've only seen this happen when the AA batteries are removed for more than a few days.
I thought the same, but mine have had batteries in them constantly and lost the clock time.
They haven't gotten much use, but even if i: power them on, set time/date, short recording, leave for auto power off and turn back on a few days later, the clock needs to be set again.
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There are tons of posts regarding the clock issue, including workarounds and other solutions. It might take some searching, but it is all here somewhere.
There have also been a number of posts, stretching back many years, stating that the M10 mics appear (and test) similar to the Primo caps. I think if you search, you can probably also find which caps were used in at least some of the other Sony recorders (or a best guess anyway).
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There are tons of posts regarding the clock issue, including workarounds and other solutions. It might take some searching, but it is all here somewhere.
Leave the deck powered ON for a couple days and it will charge up the clock battery.
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There are tons of posts regarding the clock issue, including workarounds and other solutions. It might take some searching, but it is all here somewhere.
Leave the deck powered ON for a couple days and it will charge up the clock battery.
*MIND BLOWN*
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There are tons of posts regarding the clock issue, including workarounds and other solutions. It might take some searching, but it is all here somewhere.
Leave the deck powered ON for a couple days and it will charge up the clock battery.
*MIND BLOWN*
Yeah it took us quite a bit of time to figure that one out. Someone can look at the thread and tell us how long...
:facepalm:
:hmmm:
:iamwithstupid:
:lol:
:smash:
:tomato:
:wink2:
:yahoo:
:shrug:
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There are tons of posts regarding the clock issue, including workarounds and other solutions. It might take some searching, but it is all here somewhere.
By the way!
I have one more M10 and D50 - both doesn't powers on. It's not due internal battery.
What it can be? I know its a common problem for M10 and D50
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By the way!
I have one more M10 and D50 - both doesn't powers on. It's not due internal battery.
What it can be? I know its a common problem for M10 and D50
could be a bad switch?
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could be a bad switch?
If so - it would be great. But too simple.
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There are tons of posts regarding the clock issue, including workarounds and other solutions. It might take some searching, but it is all here somewhere.
Leave the deck powered ON for a couple days and it will charge up the clock battery.
*MIND BLOWN*
QFT. I never had any idea and I thought the "resetting clock" issue was a normal thing. LOL I have had my PCM-M10 for 10 years now.
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Was there ever a firmware update? ;)
I think it was morst who figured that one out, too. Ha!
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Was there ever a firmware update? ;)
I think it was morst who figured that one out, too. Ha!
No update from Sony.
I made a video. In the comments, I say it takes 12 hours to charge up the clock!
https://youtu.be/58y_wbGgq3g (https://youtu.be/58y_wbGgq3g)
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Was there ever a firmware update? ;)
I think it was morst who figured that one out, too. Ha!
No update from Sony.
I made a video. In the comments, I say it takes 12 hours to charge up the clock!
https://youtu.be/58y_wbGgq3g (https://youtu.be/58y_wbGgq3g)
I have a Marantz PMD 620 that resets all the time. Could this be the same issue as well? Needs recharging? Doug Oade replaced the battery, but it still resets every time.
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I have a Marantz PMD 620 that resets all the time. Could this be the same issue as well? Needs recharging? Doug Oade replaced the battery, but it still resets every time.
was that over 5 years ago? Might need another?
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I have a Marantz PMD 620 that resets all the time. Could this be the same issue as well? Needs recharging? Doug Oade replaced the battery, but it still resets every time.
was that over 5 years ago? Might need another?
No, just last week. So I was very surprised that happened.
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Arrived my mail with internal accumulators.
Bought them on aliexpress.
After resoldering on one of my M10, the problem with date/time disappeared at all. Now both my M10 are healthy.
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I have a Marantz PMD 620 that resets all the time. Could this be the same issue as well? Needs recharging? Doug Oade replaced the battery, but it still resets every time.
was that over 5 years ago? Might need another?
No, just last week. So I was very surprised that happened.
very weird but maybe he loaded a dead one in there?
have you left the unit powered on for 24 hours since it arrived?
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Hi there, "part 8" of this topic is impressive, so I decided to ask for help in here, thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
My Sony PCM-M10 failed last week. After the show I checked the recording and it was only about 20 min (instead of > 100 min) long. Searching for a following file in other folders (built-in memory and mini SD card) did not bring up anything - not on the recorder nor via USB at the computer. Today a friend with a card reading device inserted the SD card, looked up the folders and got the same result. At the night of the show I would have sworn I looked up the levels about three times during the show and everything looked fine. But the more I wonder what I might have done wrong, the more unsure I get ??? I always start the recording and then push the hold button to the hold position. The recorder is in my pocket or purse.
So the recording is lost, but today I tried to figure out what happened and it looks like the hold button has a loose contact. I started a test recording, pushed the button to the hold position and then the display started to flicker (fast change) between the normal mode with the usual infos and the "hold display" where you see a key. That did not happen last week. The flickering stopped after a while, I then pressed the stop button and it did not stop, but showed the "hold display", as it should do. Then I pushed the hold button back to the middle position and then back to hold. After that pressing the stop button actually stopped the recording! Maybe that happened during the show, but as written before, I was sure I checked the levels…
Does anyone have heard of a problem like this and even has an idea what I can do to repair it / fix it?
I bought the recorder in 2011 and I did not used it that often, usually I'm taping 4 or 5 shows a year. How long is your M10 in use?
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if you were trying to record to the microSD card and had card errors, that could explain this.
Are you sure the card is still good?
Alternately, Did the card fill up completely, and the recorder put the rest in the internal memory? Sounds like you checked there...
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if you were trying to record to the microSD card and had card errors, that could explain this.
Are you sure the card is still good?
Alternately, Did the card fill up completely, and the recorder put the rest in the internal memory? Sounds like you checked there...
Thanks for your input. Both the microSD card and the built-in memory have been used successfilly in the past and have enough space left. I just recorded more than 2 hours in my living room, using the SD card, it worked. In the meantime I think the defect of the hold button is the problem.
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if you were trying to record to the microSD card and had card errors, that could explain this.
Are you sure the card is still good?
Alternately, Did the card fill up completely, and the recorder put the rest in the internal memory? Sounds like you checked there...
Thanks for your input. Both the microSD card and the built-in memory have been used successfilly in the past and have enough space left. I just recorded more than 2 hours in my living room, using the SD card, it worked. In the meantime I think the defect of the hold button is the problem.
Not a fan of that hold button.It screwed up on some recordings..They should a disable feature on the recorder.
There should be no issues adjusting the sound levels as the recorder as the recorder records. .
On Sd cards and internal memory issues I have used Easeus Datarecovery and got files out of the SDcards or internel memory of the M10.
I accidently deleted a show on the M10 and got the complete unharmed show as it was before I deleted it. Just make sure nothing else was recorded after the mistake deletion . The file will get overwritten.
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I was just over on Ebay and noticed there is alot of Japanese PCM-M10 versions for sale there for under $200..
Sad to say as I read there are only Japanese and no English option available...
To bad they cand come up with a firmware update with the language change options.
Take care all.
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I was just over on Ebay and noticed there is alot of Japanese PCM-M10 versions for sale there for under $200..
Sad to say as I read there are only Japanese and no English option available...
Google Translate app on phones has a camera function that can translate Japanese to english!
Works pretty darn great on the red M10 I got off ebay!
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Google Translate app on phones has a camera function that can translate Japanese to english!
Works pretty darn great on the red M10 I got off ebay!
That is super cool. I mean, there's all these M10's sitting in Japan not recording shows...
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So a certain website was streaming shows from back in 2010 and 2014 of a certain band known for residencies at the Beacon over the weekend. Plugged in the old M10, pressed record and wondering if the battery life would live up to expectations. Fairly new eneloop 1900s that were probably 95-99% charged lasted 19 hours. Some posts here have claimed 25-30 hours on fresh alkalines (not looking to re-start an old discussion) but it still just amazes me what this thing can do.
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I love the M10 for its' battery usage of being about 24 hours on AA"s for me. Incredible power performance.
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So suddenly neither of my two beloved PCM-10s will recognize new or used 16 or 32 gb San Disk Micro SD cards, even though one of them has been happily using such a 32 gb card for years. I bought new cards of this ilk (both 16 and 32 gb), only to find that neither PCM-10 will recognize these cards, let alone let me format the cards in them. The only card that I have that either of my PCM-10s will recognize is a San Disk "M2" 16 gb card that the other PCM-10 has been using for years. I popped this M2 card out of the one and put in the other, where it was recognized immediately.
Trouble is, I cannot find another "m2" card for sale on line, except for a high price and less capacity (e.g. , $30 for a 4 gb card). Any thoughts or suggestions?
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So suddenly neither of my two beloved PCM-10s will recognize new or used 16 or 32 gb San Disk Micro SD cards, even though one of them has been happily using such a 32 gb card for years. I bought new cards of this ilk (both 16 and 32 gb), only to find that neither PCM-10 will recognize these cards, let alone let me format the cards in them. The only card that I have that either of my PCM-10s will recognize is a San Disk "M2" 16 gb card that the other PCM-10 has been using for years. I popped this M2 card out of the one and put in the other, where it was recognized immediately.
Trouble is, I cannot find another "m2" card for sale on line, except for a high price and less capacity (e.g. , $30 for a 4 gb card). Any thoughts or suggestions?
That sucks. I have one with a 16g and one with a 32g Sandisk Ultra Plus right now and have never (knock on wood) had any issue with either.