with all respect to goodcooker's comments thread got derailed a bit, reminder of OP's original criteria
Hello,
My apologies for asking a question that no doubt has been answered many times in the distant past, however, I’m a bit behind the times.
Circa 2000 I recorded many jams with a friend on a Sony D100. I also recorded several concerts around the same time. I transferred many of these to digital by going D>A>D back in the day, however, I would like to recapture and master these recordings as the technology available to do so is vastly superior to what I had then. Additionally, I would strongly prefer to capture bit perfect.
I bought one of these to transfer old recordings from a TCD-D8. I use it to connect directly to the coax digital input of a Microtrack II, works great.
https://www.core-sound.com/shop/7-pin
microtrack is not a robust option for DAT transfers. run a DAT a few times and look at the wavs in an editor you will find it drops samples/swaps channels
i mean it can be done, if you want to roll each tape 3 times and piece it together, but thats unnecessary work
I find it more reliable than trying to transfer to PC via a soundcard.
I have not had issues using microtrack for transfers from DAT, buit haven't used it in years, using Tascam DR100mklll now Bob
if you’re not actually looking at the data you are recording and just going by ear, you would probably never know.
getting more in the weeds with this post, i have not found the microtrack to be a reliable bit-perfect interface under any situation. this is after owning the original and two of the MTII, each with various firmwares, so i feel i can dismiss it as an isolated hardware issue. If youre using the DR100 mkIII youre luckily on the right track as that deck is a rock on the digital input, despite its goofy non-standard input and ts easy-to-lose adapter cable
as far as "I find it more reliable than trying to transfer to PC via a soundcard.", there are a lot of different criteria there. the concept of "reliable" (the bar for which could be as low as "records a complete set without stopping" may be your bar... but thats far from bit perfect considering all the variables that can be introduiced in a soundcard transfer (with dropped samples and resampling being the most common). - At some point many soundcard manufacturers gave up the ghost and dumbed down their hardware to just resample anything so their customers wouldnt have to set sample rates to lock a signal. early creative soundcards were the first to do this and it stuck around for awhile. Long story short, not all computer interfaces are alike, some are great, some are fully unaccceptable, and any of them are subject to the variable of how the rest of the computer is set up reliably
Now that we have so many great standalone options that seems to be a better move to eliminate variables for those who dont wish to take the time to test. I have never seen a sony or a tascam with a digital in that wasnt bit perfect (that doesnt mean they dont exist).
some devices known to be absolutely not bit perfect on the digital input
any creative soundcard ive ever seen
microtrack
microtrackII
lectrosonics SPDR
marantz 661 mk III
optical input on mac*
*i cant vouch for *all* macs, it may be possible to set it up to be bit-perfect. i only have experience with looking at transfers done by a mac which were certainly resampled
back to the OP's question, i would try the babyface pro under USB as opposed to optical in. RME's drivers are rock solid and provided you dont select it to resample in the RME control panel it should be bit accurate. Whenever ive used RME gear it wants you to match the sampling frequwncy and lock to the incoming clock
you can easily test the RME like this:
take a short wav, a few minutes long, on your mac.
record it loopback through the RME using the following two methods
usb out>usb in
usb out>optical in.
look at the resulting wavs (either cut them to the exact sample and run checksums on them or use some utility like EAC wave compare, or cut them to the same beginning sample, invert one and mix them, which should result in dead zeros. will take less than 10 minutes to verify your setup.
be alert when transferring old tapes that once in awhile you will come across a tape that sheds like heck and makes your d100 make audible errors. the drum is accessible in that unit and if you get yourself some head cleaner and the non-fiber shedding foam swabs and be gentle with it you should be able to clean it up as needed. if you have problematic tapes (ideally access to another deck which can sometimes do better at error correction) you can sometimes get a better pull from a different deck or piece it together. There is no rhyme or reason to me as to any deck being better than anotehr all the time, sometimes its just that decks particular head alignment in regard to the tape, or youre having a good mojo day. good luck!